7 Mehmet Menu
Lorin Cupples
(Gerry Furth-Sides) Four years ago, a little bakery known for Lebanese flatbread, Al Sanabel, was already thriving in a Strip Mall in Little Arabia when it added name, Koftegi Restaurant, in a new sign on the double store front restaurant window. Owner-chef, Mehmet Kaplan, who took over the bakery, added a Turkish Mediterranean cuisine menu with kfte as the star. Kaplan knows what people like. This chef from Istanbul also headed culinary tours in Turkey. So Mehmet makes the dishes in what is known as Istanbul style. We learned his story last week, thanks to internationally well-known writers, Faye and Yakir Levy, who arranged a wonderful group meal and interview.
Mehmet Kaplan, Koftegi owner, took time out from a busy afternoon to answer our questions. But he would not sit down. The owner of the four-year restaurant laughed, I am so tired that if I sat down, I would not be able to get up again. He runs the place, front and kitchen, with a small staff that makes it look effortless, seemingly in two places at once. Even with counter ordering, cooking and packing orders or taking dishes to the tables in the double-storefront space requires a lot of work because it is rarely empty, even between lunch and dinner when we were there.
Believing that every ingredient used in its menu fundamentally reflects the traditions of Anatolia's lands and people, Mikla has managed to reinterpret carefully selected ingredients from every corner of Anatolia with a great respect and create a long-lasting classic restaurant with a contemporary approach.
Located at the top of The Marmara Pera, the roof terrace bar is slightly surreal, in the midst of jasmine scents accompanied by the chilling breeze of Galata, you feel like anything is possible in this city.
Furnishings under chic minimalism, an outdoor pool, a cool DJ spinning mellow tunes, breathtaking views shimmering in the setting sun where old mosques glow like gold crowns, the bar promises to leave any new guest in awe." Generously prepared martinis and signature cocktails are highly demanded.
Mikla has been at the forefront of the Istanbul restaurant scene since its opening in October 2005, thanks to its extensive Wine List. With this list, it has earned the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine. As a result of the recent revitalization in the Turkish wine industry, it boasts a broad selection focused on Turkish wines, alongside carefully selected top-level international brands. The selection of Turkish wines is particularly notable for pairing with its menu, which focuses on Anatolian and Aegean flavors.
The wine list currently features 450 different labels and an inventory of approximately 4500 bottles. Alongside a daily additional selection consisting of about 8-10 different wines, there are 30 wines available by the glass. The wines are stored in a climate-controlled cellar and are also displayed in a glass wine cellar at the entrance of the restaurant. The entire service team is continuously trained, both theoretically and through various tastings, with the majority holding WSET certifications.
MYK Restaurant has a menu that is constantly renewed in seasonal cycles, where you meet with unique, delicious, qualified and different signature dishes created by Mehmet Yalınkaya by blending the valuable products of our geography.
Do not forget to look up when you enter the Al Sanabel Bakery/Koftegi, which has been outfitted with a vaulted roof to simulate the stone arches found in the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. That market has been around well over five centuries, while the makeover here on Brookhurst Street is just a few years old. The long-standing Lebanese bakery recently changed hands in 2016, and added Turkish favorites from Istanbul-born and raised chef and culinary tour guide Mehmet Kaplan.
Thankfully fans of Lebanese flatbreads and other baked goods have been happy with the high standards of quality remaining the same. The bakery has not taken any of its attention to detail off of these items, just added quite a few more Turkish offerings.
Perhaps in response to the popularity of Adjaruli khachapuri being called cheese boats and experiencing a wider audience outside of the Caucasus and Russia, Chef Mehmet has added a "Turkish Boats" section to his menu to give traditional Turkish pide a makeover. His options include all the classics and his own creations like "Juju's Boat," which is a combination of muhammara and kashkaval and can be enjoyed with either chicken or beef.
For this order, a classic white cheese and soujuk pide (below) was obtained and just a little mangled after transport. Such are the ways of 2020, but the "boat" was as tasty as ever once reheated briefly in the oven. The thin crust is not just a crust, but adds to each bite and is very durable to hold up its weighty ingredients.
Since the bakery's name is still attached to the restaurant, you expect that most everything in the form of dough will be done just right. It makes sense to order an item or two more to get good use of these talents. Still under the "Turkish Boats" section of the menu, try a walnut lahmajun (below), which combines ground beef with ground up walnuts.
When you get to the "Main Courses" section of the menu, the mood shifts dramatically to that of a carnivore. The options are broad, and for those only able to make one order, the best bet might be the chef's platter (below). Besides getting two sides, you also get two mini lahmajun just in case you do not have room in the order for larger-format baked goods.
In addition to those, the meats involved here are one adana kebob, a serving of doner, one beef kebob, one chicken kebob, and two kofte patties. "Koftegi" is the English writing of the Turkish word Kfteci, meaning "maker of kofte," and a large hint of the item you probably should not ignore in your order.
The largest difference that Chef Mehmet declares about his kofte is that the high grade beef is chopped by hand rather than ground. According to him, this creates a far better experience and allows you to enjoy the marinades and spices more. Indeed the marinades are spot on for every piece, if the cooking seemed to vary between meats. Unfortunately the beef kebob was tough and dry, possibly just a byproduct of takeout.
A couple desserts can be seen in a small refrigerated case at the checkout counter and are both hard to resist. Stla (seen in top photo), or rice pudding, is a must order of course, a hefty, heavy portion of this sweet favorite. Despite its weight, the product underneath the the burnt top is less dense and more liquefied than normal. It is marvelous and addictive.
Aşure (above, listed as ashoura on bill) is another dessert you may have seen less but is also done really well here. A tri-color band made from pomegranate, pistachios, and walnuts creates a beautiful diagonal pattern on top. As the rest of the ingredients underneath warmed up with the takeout order on the way home, the liquid started to come through. There are more nuts down there, as well as sweet fruits, white beans, and grains.
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