Model Y 3d Print

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Rode Strawther

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Aug 5, 2024, 11:27:43 AM8/5/24
to roaclovovte
ionly found information that about cc0license:

" When publishing a public model under the CC0 license, you are required to include your own image of the actual print to show its print-ability."

-guidelines


You can upload a STL without a Print profile. The upload page goes straight to Publish without doing the Print Profile on the next page. Did you upload a Print Profile and tick the box?


i mean the problem is that they removed model due to CG violiation but there is no connection between CGvioliation and uploaded model, also after taken down you cant upload photo bcs they dont care about appeals


If you simply want to share models without ever printing them, then you have the option of uploading them privately, i.e. not publicly. Give interested people the link to their private model. You can of course also share them free of charge via other platforms.


Let the Owl organize your books! This is Flying Owl, an adjustable book nook that can extend in width, ensuring a perfect fit for any bookshelf. It is Print-in-Place and No supports. A built-in ratchet mechanism ensures that the set position is maintained. The owl can extend its wings from 7cm to 10cm (2.75 inches to 4.13 inches).


We are connecting 3D print files makers with people who want to use their 3D printer. Our 3D model repository acts as a real source of inspiration since the best designers share their best STL files daily to offer you their latest inventions!


Cults3D is an independent, self-financed site that is not accountable to any investor or brand. Almost all of the site's revenues are paid back to the platform's makers. The content published on the site serves only the interests of its authors and not those of 3D printer brands who also wish to control the 3D modeling market.


I often want to print only a small area of a model to check fitment. Currently I'm doing this by importing to prusa slicer, and adding negative volumes on all the parts I don't want; which often leads to 5 or 6 different box negative volume modifiers.


That said, I use a similar technique for testing before printing. The answer to your question is yes, however its much more work to do in slicer then just using the negative volumes as you are now. If you really want to do this faster and more simple, just create a boolean object in your 3D program of choice, import it as a negative object and your set. one part and done.


Basically what your asking for is a negative object, (Invert) function, but currently you need to use compound modifiers to do this, and the time is not worth it for this functionality. you get it, I see that, but Slicer really isn't the place for this. you have a 3d program under your belt, even if your still learning. We as users have to watch what we ask for, there are many more important things to ask for in a slicer then this.


For example, and this may seem simple, but wouldn't it be worth gold, to have the items in the sidebar menu remember if they were in the open or closed position. it's been years and version upon version, and this simple functionality can't be realized. doesn't that tell you something? fuzzy skins, and I can almost guarantee, displacement will be implemented before this most basic functionality will come to pass, Prusa goes with the money, it's not about the reality, or the usefulness.


This would be super useful. It seems like very common use case to want to test & print only part of a model for test fitting. The negative volume feature is a tantalising example of how streamlined this process could be imo - add a cube, resize, done.


I know this is an old post, but I figured out a way to do it. (People telling you that you're going about it wrong are only looking at the issue from their own lens. Just because it's not part of their workflow doesn't mean it shouldn't be part of yours.)


I achieved this by creating the modifier shape and setting layers and perimeters. Just leave the modifiers as default (assuming your global settings were already set), then go to the Print Settings tab and set global layers and perimeters to 0. The modifier shape preserves the area you want to print for your test. Slice and print!


I have a coordination model linked into my Revit 2018 file to make it easier to coordinate. It will also be easy to describe to the field installers why they are making offsets in the electrical conduits. When I print the views to a .pdf they don't the coordination model doesn't show in the views. Is there a way to turn the coordination model on/off in printouts that I'm not aware of?


Thanks for your Revit files it was very helpful to define issue. Unfortunately I was able to reproduce this behavior - Coordination Model is missing from printed pdf but only when we plot in Wireframe Visual Style - truing of Wireframe Style provide expected results. Further investigation need to be done.


While it's really cool that you can bring in nwd/nwc to Revit now, it's also pretty disappointing that when you print it changes everything to raster. This is making our prints look really pixelated and bad. Will Revit be updated to allow you to print vector with nwc/nwd coordination models?


New to the whole 3d printing scene and have been trying out different things. After I import a model how do I slice it so only part of it will print. Like if I wanted to cut the top off of something and only print the bottom.


The tool you want is called the CUT tool and the knowledge base will instruct you where it is. All the UI elements will have a hover over if you leave the mouse over them for a second or two. That gives you the name and the keyboard shortcut.


You select you model, select the cut tool and a dialog will pop up with various options on it. You can either drag the cut plane or type in a value in the Z axis. You can choose to keep either top or bottom or keep both. One other option is to place the bottom section down onto the bed, that way the cut area gets placed on the bottom.


I agree with Oregonerd that Shapr models do print flawlessly. To troubleshoot, create the same body in Fusion360, 3D print and compare with the Shapr model. If the same result then your 3D printer needs tuning (like belt tightening).


Sorry but i think that is a model Issue i created models a long long time with fusion an never had a problem like this. Thats the 3. time i have this problem with with different models and different filaments and different temperatures.


Just a question may be my thinking is wrong, or didnt unterstand you.

If the tensions of the belts are wrong, why did this just shows up when the height is reached where the inside is hollow? And after a few layers every thing is good?


I already asked the people from prusa forum about this problem and they told me that is a problem with prusaslicer. Some one usesed simplyfy3d and the problem didnt accoured. Than he used prusaslicer with the same file and the problem accourse.


Before you tear into your printer, you might want to try a different filament and make sure it is DRY. Better yet, try a new spool if you can. All filaments should be dry. PLA is more forgiving and PETG is more problematic with stringing and such if not dry. Also tweak your slicer settings. There is a wealth of info online for troubleshooting printing issues. I would do test prints with a scaled down version of your current model to save some time.


If the X direction (printer head travel) is indeed accurate, but the Y direction not for example, you might try to see if the Y direction result is always off by the same scale factor. Print a bunch of different things such as lines and circles and measure.


I am having similar issue in that I can not alter the printer settings from 15% infill to solid.

Luban version 3.13.1.

When I select customise, it does not give me the + sign or any option for that matter.


Or alternatively, try setting "line width" to smaller and smaller values until it slices. It's okay to have line width at 75% of nozzle size - print quality won't suffer much. So 0.3mm line width for a 0.4mm nozzle.


Hello everyone, i'm a freelance 3D modeler currently working a side job on making 3D print files, and I find hard to find how much to charge for my work (making the 3D file, not printing it). I know there is a formula that takes into consideration the electricity that you use, the wear on the hardware, how much time you spent doing it, but sometimes I don't know if I charge too much or my clients don't want to pay because they want it cheaper, so i will put some 3D models images and put the price i would give to a client for it and I would like to know if the prices are correct.


yo, so, i'd log the time spent making the 3d model and ballpark an hourly rate based on the quality of the work, apply a sale percentage, then add clean up time and material cost and tax over it per print.

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