Opulence on wheels

[Indian Railway News]

http://www.financialexpress.com/news/Opulence-on-wheels/395126/

"It was my 25th year in films — and you knew it. Thanks, I enjoyed
the meal and the atmosphere."

"A very interesting experience, both in food and in the seating,
which simply invoked the nostalgia."


Those were Shashi Kapoor (January 8, 1985) and Satish Gujral (Oct
11, 1998), writing in appreciation of the time they spent at the
Orient Express. No, not the legendary trans-Europe train, but the
restaurant at Delhi's Taj Palace hotel. You may have passed
restaurant entrance while on a visit to the hotel. And chances are
that you would have entered the brightly lit Kafe Fontana next door.

Next time, pause for a second look. For nearly a generation now,
Orient Express has been a discreet, top end hangout where India's
old money, politicians and industrialists alike, went when they
wanted to dine out without being crowded. As Orient Express
celebrates 25 years of serving India's elite, the restaurant looks
to take on the challenges of an era where the railway is no longer
the image of the ultimate in high life.

And there's a lot more of the untapped new clientele that it seeks
to attract. The wagon is intact, as are its heavily leaden tables
and well stocked bar — early 500 wines along with an equally
impressive list of other beverages. The layout and decor haven't
changed, and the staff is still as eager to take care of your whims
and fancies.

But there are signs of change too. Among them is David Tilly, who
presides over the kitchen that still holds the Continental cuisine
flying in the face of increasing culinary choices available in
India. "We have a tradition of being number one in terms of style,
opulence and luxury, and we want to continue," says this Frenchman
who has worked in Michelin star restaurants in London and Paris. So
the new menu, which he has drawn up, will remain continental, but
will also have local touches. "The biggest changes will be in terms
of different types of ingredients. The food will be less creamy and
with less gravy. French fine dining is all about lightness,
excellent plating, small portions," he stresses. Guests are of two
types, he says. Some Indians want spicy, sauce-laden dishes. "We
have to be flexible," he says, and admits to being comfortable with
fusion recipes. He is quick to clarify that many of the regulars,
and that's the mainstay here, want the classics, and he can't make
changes. So contemporary European cuisine is how he would prefer to
describe it, with dishes from the nations the train passed through.

There are personal touches that few other establishments offer —
from monogrammed serviettes to Pashmina shawls and spectacle cases.
Photographs are taken on special occasions and given as tokens on
special occasions. The meals are usually three or four course meals,
priced Rs 3,450 and Rs 4,250. Taxes, and liqour take the average
spend to about Rs 6,000 per person, though expensive wines can push
prices to many times the amount. There are just about 25
covers, "Many don't even look at the menu," says chef DN Sharma, who
has been with the restaurant for many years. Of the ten regular
staff members, five have been here for many years he says. "This
helps in knowing our guests and we can anticiptate their choices."

There are many a dish that may excite for the experiences they
offer, eg Melon carpaccio with iberico ham, mint and bird's eye
chili jam jelly and the Corn fed chicken consomme and braised
poussin agnolotti flavoured with shaved black truffle.

A favourite and not surprisngly signature dessert is the `Warm
chocolate pudding with liquid chocolate centre' — a must have.

There are about 300 odd families for whom this is a regular
celebration haunt ranging from the Kanwars to the Gandhis, Tatas to
Vandana Luthra. And it's not just the impressive list of awards that
keeps getting them back!