360 Camera Download Photos
Ela Hartley
Please note: Holga photos are delivered digitally only. The film is sent to a lab for processing, and the scans are sent back to me. I will then add these to your existing wedding online gallery and alert you by email.
Please check your photography planning document to view the current price of this add-on to your package. Holga photos are only available with Zoe as your photographer, not with any associate photographer.
Things to notice: Holga film cameras need LOTS of light (as well as ISO 400 filme ONLY). The image below and on the left is super dark because it was taken right around sunset on a dark street. Compare that with the image on the right, and that beautiful glow from where the light was directly hitting the couple from behind.
Notable points: I used the toy camera for the first time indoors (at City Hall, of course!) in the brightest area of the building. The photo turned out really dark but I did a some cool imprint of the number and some dots that are printed on the back of the film!
I took pictures this weekend for an event and when I look through my sd card (while it is in the camera) my images are there but they do not show up when I am trying to download the images to my computer, all of my previous images show up but not the ones from this recent event. Can anyone shed some light to help me out, I am on a deadline!
Looking for replies here. FWIW, I have used a USB cable, card reader and found, by accident, a slot in my Dell laptop for the card. My first card reader died and wouldn't download photos. Went back to the cable and then the slot.
If this is a camera with dual card slots, make absolutely sure that you haven't selected the other card. Not sure about the other models, but the 1 series can be set to switch cards automatically when the first one fills.
I have a Canon EOS R5, and I've had the same problem. The photos show up on my SD card and not my iMac when I place the SD card in the reader. The camera has dual card slots, but the CFExpress Type B card was not in the slot at the time. I think I can figure this out, but in the meantime, I was able to copy the information from the SD to the type B using this method, which was a workaround. =content&id=ART178235
Here is my journey:
1. Went to Canon to download the software for my laptop (I have a Macbook Air), but the website says there is no software for Catalina.
2. Tried to download the software for Mojave figuring it was close enough. It wasn't and wouldn't even open. (Pretty sure this is software is for the OLD CANON iMAGE GATEWAY Online Photo Album which was discontinued in March 2020.)
3. Tried connecting my camera wirelessly to my laptop hoping it would just work. It didn't.
4. Tried attaching my camera to my laptop with a USB-B cord, using an USB-A to USB-C adapter to connect the cord to my laptop. Didn't work. Computer didn't read the camera it all.
Solution:
1. Finally figured out that I should go to
2. Walked through the steps to connect my camera (simple enough - put your camera on wifi, put in your email to verify your account, etc.)
3. Selected the little Cloud with a Camera icon on my camera.
4. Selected on my laptop that I wanted to also upload to Google Photos.
5. Little green light on camera started flickering and the pics started rolling in to the ihub.image.canon website as well as my Google Photos. (Pics are only on ihub for 30 days, is says)
6. Downloaded ALL pics from ihub to my laptop. They arrived in two zip drives and open in Preview.
So, now my pics are safe and sound in Google Photos AND my laptop.
I am pretty sure that plugging your computer in with the adapter and a real usb-cord and running image capture would solve your problem. My camera works just fine with Apple Software and my dock. One thing is that if you use the USB, you have to turn off wifi.
The camera roll on your device only backups to Microsoft OneDrive - it does not sync photos both ways. That means you can delete backed up photos and videos from your device, and the copies in OneDrive won't be affected.
If your camera backup is taking too long to set up or look for photos, without giving any error message, it could be because you have too many photos in your camera roll, or that you are out of storage space. Read What does it mean when your OneDrive account is frozen?
Overs the years I've used Dropbox to backup my pictures and videos. However I recently got a new iPhone, and I want to move all my photos/videos back onto my iPhone. From what I can tell, the best way to do this is using iCloud Photos.
The .jpeg photos are much larger size than .heif, and I lose the "live" portion of the photos. The .mov files (at least the newer ones) simply won't sync to iCloud Photos; I've tried to convert a video into .mp4, which iCloud Photos accept, but quality seems to take a hit.
I think the best way to go on about it, would be for you to use a third-party app in order to convert the files. That way, you'd have the content exported or synced to iCloud photos with the file type of your choice.
Since I wrote my first post I've tried to convert files into .heic and .hevc. However iCloud Photos won't accept/sync these files. I've changed my Dropbox settings to backup photos in their original .heic format. Hope this will help for future restores.
I got my first film camera ( an Olympus-OM10) two months ago and I've been gradually learning how to use it. Earlier this week I got my second roll of film developed and about half of the photos were blurry. I was wondering if anyone could tell what caused the blur and how I can prevent it in the future. Here are some of the photos as examples. Any feedback is appreciated.
Film never came with 5 axis in body image stabilization, like some digital sensors now. Try to read up about handholdable shutter speeds and learn to find out how to see if your camera is using them or not.
Get a sufficiently sturdy tripod and some remote (i.e. cable) release. Play better safe than sorry. - If you really want to push your handholding limits: Join a gun club, master the BB rifle and practice photography on a borrowed digital camera (to avoid wasting about $60 - 200 on processed practise / test films with ruined and or meaningless pictures.
My 2nd suggestion was to learn seeing what shutter speeds your camera uses. - I am not familiar with OM 10. - It must be a film SLR, as good as any. Some SLRs display the shutter speed they are set to and the one they picked in the VF. - Others have an engraved dial outside and only a needle or traffic light that confirms "correct exposure" inside with the latter kind it is of course crucial to know what shutter speed they are set to. - maybe set them to an absolutely safe speed and learn to count clicks to sense what you are setting them to according to your internal meter.
There were fully automatic cameras that only had a traffic light for "handholdable" or not in their VF. That read out (green yellow and red?) was usually catered for 50mm & shorter lenses since most film cameras don't know which focal length you mounted on them. If you are using a long lens on these learn to count aperture ring clicks to make sure the shutter speed will be high enough.
There's an old "rule" that the longest shutter speed you use when hand-holding the camera is the reciprocal of the focal length. With a standard 50mm lens and the usual settings on most cameras, that means 1/60. With my habit of a couple of cups of coffee a day and otherwise generally shaky hands, I will use 1/125 with a 50mm lens as a minimum wherever possible to avoid blur(I should add that with vibration reduction, which isn't available on any lens that will work on the OM-1, I can often manage 1/15 or even 1/8 at 50mm, but that also requires a reasonably stationary subject-even a photo of someone talking will often give blurred mouths and hands).
"Fast" lenses, or lenses that can let in more light, can only take you so far, although going to an f/1.4 lens from an f/1.8 lens, for example, only gives a marginal amount of help. I wouldn't NECESSARILY consider faster film, either, since in my experience even modern films like Portra 800 give up a lot vs. their ASA 400 counterpart. In all honesty, in the photos you've show I'd have had my tripod out. In the absence of that, there are tricks you can sue to get reasonable sharpness past there. I've taken 30 second exposures by leaning against a wall and letting the camera dangle from its strap around my neck, but that's touchy as breathing can throw it off. An other steady platform can also be used, but may take some creativity(and isn't as flexible as a tripod). Also, avoid touching the camera as much as possible-if you don't have a cable release(your OM-1 should take a standard threaded release that can be had for $10 or less) you can use the self timer. Many self timers have a 2-second setting, or if a mechanical timer will allow you to set times significantly shorter than the standard 10 seconds-for exactly this purpose.
As someone else noted, this is the poster's first film camera. We can, from that, assume that he has some photography experience with modern digital cameras. Probably, AF and Program mode. He also notes that this is the second roll of film and "about half" of the images are blurry.
The fact that about one and 1/2 rolls of film did NOT turn out blurry doesn't prove that the camera and shutter are working properly but it is enough for me to push hardware problems to the back of the list.
The multiple images in each frame look pretty well focused. This pushes focus problems to the back of the line. The multiple images indicate classic slow shutter speeds. Likely well past 1/8 second into the 1/2 second or longer range because the camera must be steady long enough for each of those images to form.
You need to go back and brush up on exposure techniques and the workings of these classic cameras. They are not designed to protect you from anything. If you put in ISO100 film, set the lens to f11 and fire away in the dark, the camera will simply assume that you want long shutter speeds either for effect or because you are on a tripod. You need to ALWAYS be aware of the shutter speed selected by the camera.
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