Powercraft 720 Portable Generator Manual

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Alexia Borson

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Aug 4, 2024, 6:25:11 PM8/4/24
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PowerCraft is a leading brand known for its wide range of high-quality power tools and machinery. From saws and drill machines to wood splitters and sanders, Power Craft offers a comprehensive selection of products to meet the needs of both professional tradespeople and DIY enthusiasts.

For detailed information on how to use Power Craft products, refer to the user manual provided with each purchase. The user manual serves as a valuable resource for learning how to operate and maintain your Power Craft tools effectively.


Power Craft's product ranges encompass a variety of tools and machinery, including screw machines, sanders, and more. Whether you're looking for a powerful drill machine for home improvement projects or a reliable wood splitter for your woodworking needs, Power Craft has you covered.


To get started with your Power Craft tools, consult the user manual for step-by-step instructions on assembly, operation, and maintenance. The user manual offers valuable insights into how to make the most of your Power Craft products.


At Power Craft, our vision is to provide customers with top-quality tools and machinery that deliver exceptional performance and reliability. We strive to continuously innovate and improve our products to meet the evolving needs of our customers.


In addition to saws, drill machines, wood splitters, screw machines, and sanders, Power Craft also offers a range of other products, such as power generators, air compressors, and welding machines. Whatever your power tool needs may be, Power Craft has a solution for you.


For detailed instructions on how to use Power Craft's other products, refer to the user manual provided with each purchase. The user manual contains valuable information on safety precautions, maintenance tips, and troubleshooting advice.


The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500 watt drill in, it might turn

sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very erratic - guessing the speeds of

course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up again, slowly. There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than maybe change the capacitor, but

my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know if that could be the problem. Is it a lost cause? I originally got this from Freecycle knowing the genny side was faulty, in the hope I could make a

good one out of two - I have another with a duff engine. Turns out they are sufficiently different

that I can't do anything with them, so now I have two non-working genny's :)




How much work do you want to do on such a low value genset? You could

start by multimetering the physical generator while running to see

what voltages are where, and resistance testing the same while not

running.I dont suppose its worthwhile to bodge the gen head onto the working

motor.

NT




Motors require significantly more power to start than run, in the order of

2 to 3 times. Though as yours does try I'd expect it to spin up

eventually. If you give the motor a spin by hand does it run? Can the

genset power a simple load like a light bulb? If does 60W without problem

cobble together a few more to up the load.

--

Cheers

Dave.


>Hi

>sounds like a great excuse to learn about generators (you can't make it any

>worse)

>Basically a generator is a spinning coil (or coils)of wire which spin in a

>magnetic field usually generated by another coil of wire.( I'm sure you knew

>this).

>But did you know the field coil is usually DC whilst the armature is

>producing AC.

>Most generator have a rectifier pack or voltage regulator connected to the

>field and these often go faulty.

>Another common fault (with long unused sets) is sticking brushes.

>Yes they DO have brushes these bring the AC output off the armature and can

>stick in their guides giving symptoms as you describe.


That was my original idea, but the crankshaft/armature shaft is a one piece thing, as are the

crankcase and one end of the generator case, so it's not feasible. Still, I can always hack the armature off, stick a pulley on the shaft and use the engine to drive

something else. As the old saying goes, "It'll come in handy even if I never use it."Thanks for all the replies.


Flourescent is a "nasty" load again like a motor and 11W isn't a big load.

Don't you have a nice tungsten lamp you can plug in? I suspect it might be

the regulator that has packed in. Have a dig about on the web, they aren't

rocket science maybe just a chunky diode and a capacitor. Probably a

single sealed unit but possibly available as a generic spare.--

Cheers

Dave.


Hi,Try a google on 'generator field flashing'There's some info about checking/flashing a brushless self exciting

generator here in a manual here.*If* it needs flashing it looks like you just need to connect a 12V

battery across the capacitor for a second.If using a lead acid battery I'd also connect a fuse inline in case

something has shorted.cheers,

Pete.




Same behaviour with a 40watt table lamp as with the fluorescent and the drill.It turns out the armature could be separated from the crankshaft so I took the lot apart and took a

photo. are three pairs of wires from the stator. One pair goes to the 6uF capacitor which you can see

in the top middle of the black plastic piece. Another pair goes to the 230v socket, with the live

going through a reset switch first. The remaining two wires go to a 12v socket for battery charging.

And that's it. The CBB61 capacitor seems to be only available from China, though there's a similar one on ebay, but

that's half the price of a new genny.




> >How much work do you want to do on such a low value genset? You could

>

> It's mostly a matter of having a lot of spare time, combined with a fondness for repairing just

> about anything if it's possible. Saving money is a bonus of course, even if it's only a few quid.


> >start by multimetering the physical generator while running to see

> >what voltages are where, and resistance testing the same while not

> >running.

>

> This is where my knowledge is lacking. I'm happier with spanners in my hands than a multimeter.


> >> I tried it with an 11 watt flourescent handlamp. Depending on how the

> >> genny is feeling, it varies from nothing to full brightness.

>

> >Flourescent is a "nasty" load again like a motor and 11W isn't a big load.

> >Don't you have a nice tungsten lamp you can plug in? I suspect it might be

> >the regulator that has packed in. Have a dig about on the web, they aren't

> >rocket science maybe just a chunky diode and a capacitor. Probably a

> >single sealed unit but possibly available as a generic spare.

>

> Same behaviour with a 40watt table lamp as with the fluorescent and the drill.

>

> It turns out the armature could be separated from the crankshaft so I took the lot apart and took a






>

> There are three pairs of wires from the stator. One pair goes to the 6uF capacitor which you can see

> in the top middle of the black plastic piece. Another pair goes to the 230v socket, with the live

> going through a reset switch first. The remaining two wires go to a 12v socket for battery charging.

> And that's it.

>

> The CBB61 capacitor seems to be only available from China, though there's a similar one on ebay, but

> that's half the price of a new genny.


ALL of todays modern 3000rpm generators, and definately the throw away style

2 strokes use a spinning DC field and the AC power comes off the stationary

armature- i.e. NO brushes.The OP probably has a shorted field or more likely expired diodes (yes,

very cheap and nasty) on the field coil. You will need to strip the spinning

part out of the generator and replace the diodes, and check the resistance

and insulation of the coil.It's far from unheard of in this league of machine for the windings to move

slightly or there be sufficient 'slop' in the bearings for the field coil to

contact the case or armature and wear it away / short it.Tim..




>It's far from unheard of in this league of machine for the windings to move

>slightly or there be sufficient 'slop' in the bearings for the field coil to

>contact the case or armature and wear it away / short it.

>




I decided not to bother keeping the engine, so in the interests of recycling, I'm thinking about

hiding it in full sight in the allotment, as an appeasement to this months crop of travellers, who

will no doubt discover it during one of their nocturnal excursions.






Hi CurlsI had the same problem, changed diodes etc and checked continuity on

the windings etc, after some more probing i changed the capacitor (8uF

440v) and hey presto the genarator is working again, I got the new

capacitor from Maplin Electronics , Order no:

Motor run 440V 8uF RG64U at 3.43The 2 diodes on the armature are hidden behind the resistior and are

1n5408 types that can be bought from Mode components for a very

reasonable price Hope this helps with your repair and gets you going if its not allready

fixed and helps someone in the future to repair there genarator alsoChris

--

Chris R




i bought 1 on 13/09/07 for the same price and have used it many times with absolutely no problems and very happy with its performance for a chinese import generator.

ive had it running a 391ltr fridge freezer and water pump and 2 tv's and 2 pc's with stb and amp/receiver and it managed it very well..also while fridge was unplugged i had a split system aircon running for a little while and didnt have any problem.


Mine performs well and I have no issues with it. Don't forget to do regular oil changes if running for extended periods. It's well worth it. First service is 10 hours and the amount of bits that come out in the first oil change is remarkable.


As for getting another, that story has two sides. The upside is that you have built in redundancy, but the downside is you now have two units that need to be serviced and maintained, not to mention to break down! Anyway, have fun with your toy.

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