Factory Reset Sv3c Camera
Anthony
This dome IP camera supports rotation 355 degrees in horizontal, 90 degrees in vertical, just need to swipe the screen to adjust the direction of the camera.
Also, you can set different preset locations for the camera, then the surveillance camera will cover all around, everything under control!
This Pan and Tilt security camera with 12pcs array infrared&white LED lights, not only supports normal night vision, but also provides more choice, all color night vision and auto color night vision.
1. Infrared Mode: The picture is black and white. The infrared light of the PTZ camera outdoor will be turned on. By default, this PTZ outdoor camera is in infrared mode.
2. Full Color Mode: The picture is in color. The white light of the wireless WiFi camera will be turned on to emit white light to illuminate the surrounding environment. (In order to prolong the service life of the outdoor wireless WiFi camera, it is recommended not to turn on the white light for a long time.)
3. Intelligent Mode: The picture is in color. At night, when the IP camera outdoor detects a human figure, the white light of the IP outdoor camera will be turned on to illuminate the surrounding environment.
The newest Pan Tilt dome camera supports alarm recording and constant recording, and the videos will be saved to Micro SD card(not included) automatically.
The 5MP WiFi camera supports MAX 128GB SD card(not included).
This SV3C WiFi camera supports the connection of mobile phones, computers and iPads. On the mobile phone, we recommend using the official APP CamHi or CamHiPro to connect the camera. On the computer, we recommend using our official HiP2P software. Our official software will make the function compatibility of this outdoor PTZ camera better.
A: The camera is wireless wifi camera, but it needs to be powered on to work (Package with power adapter for using). And some customers are accustomed to using a WiFi camera with a network cable, so our package is equipped with a network cable.
A: Please make sure that the surrounding environment is dark, and secondly, light sensor is a small hole under the ip camera lens, please place the ip camera in a suitable position, and then confirm that the light sensor can sense the light source well.
A: Firstly, while keeping the WiFi IP camera powered on, please keep the distance between the WiFi IP camera and the router not too far, and there should not be many obstacles between the two, such as multi-sided walls.
Secondly, The WiFi IP camera does not support special letters or symbols (@ # & ...) in Wi-Fi SSID and Wi-Fi password. Please use standard English letters and numbers.
A: No, don't worry! Our SV3C brand has been making cameras for 8 years, and has always adhered to the principle of protecting customer privacy and data, providing customers with helpful products and services. About this, we can 100% assure you.
I finally got it mounted back up on my new garage today. Powered right up. I've changed nothing in SS, routers, camera (other than sitting unplugged for 6 months.) Was really hoping I'd be right back in business but it's not seen by SS, trying to connect via web interface gets me just barely into the firmware after 20 reloads but to a screen that says "IP camera Welcome" with no options to do anything )I suspect it doesn't finish loading.) An IP scanner does readily recognize that there's a device on the IP that I had set for it way back when. I don't expect anyone here to magically solve my problem (and I recognize it's not a Security Spy problem) but was hoping for suggestions from those who goof around with cameras more frequently as to anything obvious I might not be thinking of to try, thanks.
If it's WiFi, then the primary culprit here is going to be the strength/reliability of the WiFi signal. Make sure the signal is as strong as possible (e.g. by moving the access point closer to the camera). If possible, connect the camera by wired Ethernet instead.
Thanks for the response. It's wifi. It's mounted to the garage across the yard in roughly the same place it was before when it was connecting. When I came home last night I power cycled it and it was showing up for a short tie but kind of faded away as I was trying to tweak the settings in a browser.
Yes, after you reset it to factory settings, you'll have to go through any initial setup that the camera requires. The main thing you'd need to do is to give it the WiFi details, and this would require you to temporarily connect the camera to your router/switch by wired Ethernet. Once connected by wired Ethernet, the camera should be discovered by SecuritySpy and you'll be able to open its web interface in a web browser to set its settings.
This would actually be a good test in itself. If the camera responds and performs well when connected by wired Ethernet, then you know that the WiFi signal is the problem. If you see the same connection problems via Ethernet, then this indicates the camera is going bad.
Thanks. I'll have to climb a tall ladder and unmount it to set it up unfortunately. I'm fairly certain the wifi signal is the problem-- just don't understand what changed since it was last running in June.
Yes, it's probably the WiFi signal. Many things can affect the signal quality: obviously the distance between the access point and the device, but also: number of other devices on the same WiFi network, interference from other nearby WiFi networks and even from non-WiFi appliances like microwaves, relative orientation of the sending/receiving antennas, material of any walls in the way.
Assuming your WiFi access point is dual-band, one thing you could try would be to set different SSID names for the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands, and then try connecting the camera specifically to the 2.4 GHz network. 2.4 GHz signals are slower but provide better range than 5 GHz.
Thanks for the suggestions. There's really no way to run an ethernet cable--- hanging it over the yard wouldn't be the end of the world but there's no way to get it through the wall without drilling into the brick. I do have an old powerline ethernet adapter in use that I can borrow and try, even though the garage is on a different circuit than the router. Good suggestion about the SSID names... it would be a pain as I have several repeaters in use and I'm not confident I can remember how to change their settings, but I suppose I could just change the 5 ghz name in the router controls as a test and force everything into the 2.4....
I got it all set up again, gave it the wifi IP it had before, disconnected the ethernet cable, no problem. But it only connects when plugged on close to the router and computer. No connectivity in the next room. Baffling....
Router shows it connected via 5G- I'm not sure how to force it to 2.4 (although I can't see how that can help, considering how extreme the connectivity problem is.) I do have separate SSID names for the two bands, and I entered the non-5g name for the network in the camera's setup.
I'm using WiFi extender type devices to boost weak WiFi cam connections. My system is all eero devices now, but older Apple or tp-link devices would work, too depending on what hardware you're already using.
I co-locate the extender device with the cam, use the same power source as the cam, and physically connect the cam to the extender using a short ethernet cable. Then I turn off the cam's WiFi altogether, as it thinks it's wired.
Once you've physically connected the extender to the camera, if there's someplace in the garage structure that might have a less obstructed signal path to your router, you can place the extender in that location, using a longer ethernet cable to connect to the camera. Or, if there is a third location from which it's easier to "see" both your router and a location anywhere in the garage, you can put another extender at that location and use a "bank-shot" connection.
If there's a roof structure above the wall, with typical rafters and blocking between the rafters, that would be a location you could drill a 1/2" hole to pass power and ethernet through to get a signal out over the top of the wall. You could unobtrusively place a small repeater in the eave outside the wall and have a stronger signal that way, too.
Thanks for looking at this Sawmill. I bought a new router shortly after getting this camera a year ago, added a few range extenders, and was connecting with minimal problems. I suspect something else is going on here... considering I can't even get the camera to connect at the other end of my tiny apartment. Maybe I'll try posting an image here to illustrate where things are, but I'm not sure how.
Sounds like there could be some issue with the camera's WiFi (assuming that the camera performs reliably when connected by wired Ethernet). Adding the bridge/extender device as described by @Sawmill is a good idea.
Ben, do you have any suggestion for how to force the camera to connect to the 2.4 band? I set it up to connect to the non-5g network but for some reason the router shows it connected via 5g. The bands do have different names.
The camera is fine wired and also rock solid via wireless when near the router.... no idea what happens when farther away- could it be some kind of interference that wasn't there 5 months ago? I'm absolutely sure nothing happened to the camera during the wait for the new garage.
Here are the visuals. The router is on the "wrong" side of the home for the yard... on the second floor. The camera was a bit lower than the second floor on the old garage, now it's a foot closer to level with the router. Cameras at far ends of the second floor (one in back porch) connecting fine.
Well, unfortunately that didn't last long until it disappeared, and then came and went without rhyme or reason....I finally got time to try it with my powerline ethernet adapter and it's rock solid, so I think that's how it's going to be. Sawmill, I may use your idea of creating a way to run the wires under the eve somewhere. I could connect a wifi access point to the powerline ethernet but for right now this camera is my only outdoor connectivity need.
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