Flashpoint R2 Pro Ii Manual

[Lucretia]

Ihave a 500D with the 430EX II flashgun. I've taken two pictures with the camera in manual mode, one with the flash in ETTL mode and then in manual mode with the power to 1/64 and the flash exposure to -2.

If the flash is on manual, the flash exposure control doesn't do anything. If the flash is set to 1/64 power, it will deliver 1/64 power. Set it to 1/2 power and it will deliver 1/2 power. The flash exposure control only works with TTL flash metering.

1/128 isn't the flash's minimum possible power; it's merely the minimum power you can select using the manual controls. It used to be that auto/manual flashes "bottomed out" at 1/16 when physical switches were used, even if TTL or "auto" mode could supply much less power. Even going to 1/128 vs 1/64 means an extra character on the display. At some point, interface practicality and circuit cost/complexity have to be considered.

If you are working with manual flash lighting and you need less than 1/64 power (or whatever the lowest setting is on the flash) gives you, then your only options (assuming the aperture you're using is what's needed for the shot) to lower your ISO setting to something less sensitive or to use neutral density gels (or something jury-rigged that has the same effect) to reduce the output of your flash.

There are many flashes across many brand lines that exhibit what you have discovered concerning your 430EX II. Although I don't think there is a great conspiracy amongst the flash manufacturers, the "Truth" is that the manual minimum setting is actually the minimum manual setting.

In other words, many flashes that can be controlled both manually and via TTL are capable of less power than the power used at the lowest manual setting. To use the flash at less power than the minimum setting that is available manually, the flash must be controlled through TTL. The easiest way to do this is by adjusting the flash exposure compensation downward. Note: The flash exposure compensation setting has no effect when the flash power has been set manually, it only applies when the flash is being controlled through TTL.

If you want to reduce exposure of areas illuminated by the flash and retain manual control of the flash, then either a reduction in ISO or a narrower aperture can be used. Filters that limit the amount of light passing through them could also be used. This would include either lens mounted neutral density filters or modifiers placed between the flash and the subject. You could also increase the distance between the flash and the subject. Any of these options could also affect other properties of the resulting image.

A modern flash gun like the 430EX II can output an almost infinite number of power levels between the maximum and the minimum powers within its capability. But building a user interface that would allow manual control to such a fine degree would be unwieldy and cumbersome. A good analogy might be a camera that can use stepless shutter speeds. When selecting the shutter speed manually, only 1/2 or 1/3 stops are available for selection because at some point the excessive number of choices would make the selection of any shutter speed a lengthy exercise. But when selecting the aperture and letting the camera select the shutter speed, the camera can quickly select one of a virtually infinite number of shutter speeds between each stop.

Yes, this is very annoying. The lowest power settable when in manual mode is far higher than that which the flash can achieve in ETTL. I've done some tests and the manual flash when set to 1/64 exposes around 4 stops higher than the flash can actually achieve. Really limits the use of the flash in manual mode.

Modern flash designs 'cut off' the discharge curve at the appropriate time to deliver anything less than their full output. Note that because the intensity of the burst of light the flash delivers is not uniform during the exposure, cutting a flash's total output by a factor of x does not cut the (time) duration of the flash by the same amount.

As a side note, different discharge intensities have a different peak spectral output (color balance), so cutting off the flash early necessarily affects the color of the light that has been discharged. Since no one wants yellow flash, or worse, yellow flash sometimes, these factors must also be compensated for as the flash durations shorten.

When using E-TTL, the flash does not control the duration at all. Rather the camera continuously monitors the scene exposure before and during the flash output computes the cutoff from the pre-flash reading, using the camera's ambient meter.

As a result, there really is no correlation between the manual features of a flash (eg. 1/32 or 1/64 power) and what levels E-TTL can achieve (which, from the flash's perspective, is simply outputting max power until told to stop).

Well, I'm not really sure to be honest. All I know is that I went back to factory settings on my 30d, and then the pilot light began to come on in all of my manual settings - which it wasn't doing before of course. The flash isn't firing at all - as I said, the pilot isn't even coming on.

So, I played around, and tried to remember what settings I had my camera on, and when I went to continous shoot, the speedlight showed no pilot again at all. I went off continous shoot, and then the pilot came back on again. This happened in all the manual modes I spoke of previously. So, I don't know why but for some reason I am getting no pilot in manual settings when my camera is in continous shoot. It is working when I take it off continous.

If you are talking about the focus assist light, then yes, it will not operate in AI Servo (continuous focus). I thought you were talking about the actual flash not firing. These are two separate things.

Hi, jmesar!

It sounds like you're asking about using a flash unit wirelessly. So that the Community can help you better, please let us know your flash's make and model along with any other accessories that you're using. That, and any other details you'd like to give will help the Community better understand your issue!

If this is a time-sensitive matter, click HERE search our knowledge base or find additional support options HERE.

Thanks and have a great day!

Sorry my ignorance, I understood the 2.4G follow the X-Sync protocol.

I bougth a new R10 to use with old FD lens and need a off camera flash, I am try with bats photos, and do not like a slave flash triggered by the light of the camera flash, I am planing to buy a new flash, but budget is not enogh for Canon Flash, I need a manual flash triggered wireless by R10

I do not own the R10 but I don't think it will trigger an off camera RF (radio) flash on its own. You will need a trigger that fits in the hot shoe and a flash that is compatible with that trigger. These are usually radio and sold as a set. I think you are confusing the 2.4ghz WiFi in the R10 with the flash sync protocol used to sync the shutter and flash duration.

Be sure to check the main FAQ if you don't see your question here, then ask in the #help channel of our Discord if you are still not satisfied. If you are using an old version of Flashpoint, you might also want to read the Legacy FAQ.

A: Many web games have what is known as a sitelock, which means that they will not work unless they are being played on the original site they were hosted on. Since the projector is not connected to the Internet and cannot identify those sites, those games will refuse to load on it. Flashpoint gets around this by running the games through a local server proxy which, simply put, tricks them into thinking they are being played on the original sites they were meant to be played on. Moreover, web games are commonly spread across multiple files rather than just one; those are known as multi-asset games. These types of games are less likely to run with just the projector on their own, but Flashpoint also deals with that. For more details, see How Flashpoint Works.

A: Flashpoint Infinity downloads games on demand, so you can keep only the games you like by using Flashpoint Infinity. But because game files must be laid out the same way as they would be on the internet, for most of Flashpoint's existence it was impossible to separate game files cleanly into individual packages. With Flashpoint's GameZIP Server, games can now be served from standalone ZIP files, but many of the Legacy games that were saved before the GameZIP Server was implemented still need to be converted. We're working on it!

A: Flash games don't disappear by themselves. However, since Flash support was removed from browsers, most people aren't able to play Flash content unless they downgrade their browser and Flash versions to one that does not contain the kill switch. Emulators like Ruffle exist, but they have many flaws and are not compatible with all Flash content. Because of this, many sites that hosted Flash games have decided to remove them. As we cannot rely on the assumption that sites will stay up, we're working hard to grab as many games as possible while they're still here.

A: Flashpoint does not have any viruses. However, several antivirus programs falsely detect certain files in Flashpoint as viruses. Avast, AVG, and BitDefender are even known to render Flashpoint inoperable; you'll need to follow the instructions for Troubleshooting Antivirus Interference.

A: Follow our Curation Tutorial to add games to Flashpoint! Flashpoint comes with standalone projectors for Flash and Shockwave, and in some cases it will work to simply open an SWF with a Flash projector or open a DCR with a Director projector. But to ensure that games are preserved and work properly, you'll need to curate them.

3a8082e126