[UPD] P P Sharma Cosmetic Formulation Book Free 456
Clotilde Wilks
The progress in new delivery systems for active ingredients has boosted the dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic fields by allowing formulations to display enhanced skin permeation capabilities. Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides able to form host-guest inclusion complexes with guest active molecules, resulting in improved physicochemical properties of such molecules. The incorporation of CDs in dermopharmaceutical and cosmetics formulations has received much attention since the late 1970 s by enhancing modulation of the passage through the skin and vectorization into the target site while simultaneously offering a biocompatible delivery system. This paper features the advantages of CDs in dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic applications, such as the improvement of the apparent solubility and the stability of the active ingredients, the possibility of masking unpleasant odors, among others that are be described, emphasizing that these versatile skin active ingredient carriers are strongly promising both in the treatment of skin diseases and in the improvement of cosmetic formulations.
The pH of the formulation was determined in order to be sure that the formulation can be used without the risk of irritancy to the skin. The pH was found to be 6.6 0.5 for gel which was very near to the neutral pH, thus the formulation can be used without the risk of irritancy to the skin. This also indicated that the selected ingredients of the formulation did not alter the pH of the formulation.
When you wing your liner or apply your favorite perfume, have you ever wonder how many people are involved in the formulation? Although Beauty industry is a niche field, it holds many opportunities for everyone. One of the most reason being the specialization and the impact of media on the perception of beauty. In spite of being one focused sector, each step in the process has a perpetual learning curve. To know more about the currently popular designations in the beauty industry, read further:
Abstract:Cosmetic and personal care products are globally used and often applied directly on the human skin. According to a recent survey in Europe, the market value of cosmetic and personal care products in Western Europe reached about 84 billion euros in 2018 and are predicted to increase by approximately 6% by the end of 2020. With these significant sums of money spent annually on cosmetic and personal care products, along with chemical surfactants being the main ingredient in a number of their formulations, of which many have been reported to have the potential to cause detrimental effects such as allergic reactions and skin irritations to the human skin; hence, the need for the replacement of chemical surfactants with other compounds that would have less or no negative effects on skin health. Biosurfactants (surfactants of biological origin) have exhibited great potential such as lower toxicity, skin compatibility, protection and surface moisturizing effects which are key components for an effective skincare routine. This review discusses the antimicrobial, skin surface moisturizing and low toxicity properties of glycolipid and lipopeptide biosurfactants which could make them suitable substitutes for chemical surfactants in current cosmetic and personal skincare pharmaceutical formulations. Finally, we discuss some challenges and possible solutions for biosurfactant applications.Keywords: biosurfactants; cosmetics; glycolipids; lipopeptides; pharmaceutical formulations; skincare; surfactants
Cosmetic is a Greek word which means to 'adorn' (addition of something decorative to a person or a thing). It may be defined as a substance which comes in contact with various parts of the human body like skin, hair, nail, lips, teeth, and mucous membranes etc, Cosmetic substances help in improving or changing the outward show of the body and also masks the odour of the body. It protects the skin and keeps it in good condition. In general, cosmetics are external preparations which are applied on the external parts the body.
Even in earlier days, men and women used to decorate their bodies for improvement of appearance. Men used leaves of vegetables and parts of animals whereas women use to wear colored stones and flowers round their neck and wrist. Gradually, they start using colored earth and ointments on their face and body. Even bangles and necklace made of baked earth materials became very common among the people. Eye shadow were made of copper (coloured earth) ore and lamp black (coloured earth) while red colour was used for dyeing of hair.
Now days, cosmetics are considered as essential components in life. They not only, attract the people towards it but also impart psychological effects. It has gained popularity in the last 3-4 decades and its use has been increased exponentially both-in males and females. The most popular cosmetics are hair dyes, powders and creams.
Examples of Cosmetics:
Skin-care creams, powders, lotions, lipsticks, nail polishes, eye and face makeup, deodorants, baby products, hair colourants and sprays etc.
Uses:
1. They are used as a cleansing, moisturizing and beautifying agent.
2. They help in enhancing attractiveness of the body.
3. They help in altering the appearance of the body without affecting its functions.
4. Sunscreen products help in protecting the body from UV rays and treating sunburns.
5. Acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes and other skin imperfections are treated or repaired by treatment products.
6. Cosmetics help in treating skin infection.
The fatty acids containing plant oils have been used as components of cosmetic formulations, and the best cosmetic function has been established for unsaturated fatty acids present in triglycerides. Many oils, fats, waxes, and phospholipids are employed as excipients in cosmetics and personal care products. Antioxidants such as carotenoids, retinoids, and tocopherols are used for their antioxidant properties because of their importance in therapeutic care. For skin care, the most important are oils with high contents of linoleic and α-linolenic acid which reduce the formation of eczemas or atopic dermatitis. These essential fatty acids incorporate into the cell membranes and regenerate the damaged lipid barrier of epidermis and restrict water loss. The unsaturated fatty acids show prominent healing effects on skin inflammation and are used in various cosmetic products. Mineral oils and waxes are also used in several products due to their property of skin tolerance, protection, cleansing, and viscosity. As cosmeceutical formulation, the nanoformulations are effective against irritated and inflamed skin and effective for therapy of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. The lipid nanoparticles offer advantages of chemical stability and good skin compatibility that can be used for protection against radiation and aging.
The lipids present in cosmetics intended to be applied to human skin to protect and improve the appearance of body, form a protective barrier on the skin, protect from external harmful substances and help to keep it hydrated and soft. The fatty acids commonly used as components of cosmetic formulations are a mixture of triglycerides of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, i.e., they are esters of glycerol and higher fatty acids, containing even number of aliphatic carbon atoms (Bonnet 2018; Bialek et al. 2016) (Table 1). In cosmetic emulsions which account for the bulk of personal care products, the major ingredients present are lipids (plant oils, fatty acids, etc.) or their derivatives (emollients, emulsifiers). In recent years, the complex lipids used in cosmetic formulations are often obtained from plant or biotechnology origin, making it possible to promote oilseed crops and develop new extraction techniques and methods (Bonnet 2018). Fatty acids (FAs) are important in maintaining the structure and function of the outer layer or epidermis (stratum corneum, SC) which contains glycolipids, intercellular lipids (cement), and a lipid coat of the skin called the natural moisturizing factor (NMF). Lipids in intercellular matrix connect the SC, ensuring its cohesiveness, ability to protect the skin from xenobiotics, and forming a barrier against water loss (Bialek et al. 2016). The major fatty acids present in cosmetics are unsaturated fatty acids in triglycerides (TGs), in particular the EFAs linoleic acid (omega-6) and α-linolenic acid (omega-3). For skin care, the most important are the oils with high content of omega-6 and omega-3 that prevent the formation of eczemas (Bialek et al. 2016). The lipids present in epidermis are generally ceramides (sphingolipids) and essential fatty acids (EFAs). Linoleic acid (LA) is an essential constituent of EFAs in ceramides which decrease in the epidermis with age causing skin sensitivity and roughness. The epithelial cells (keratinocytes) constituting a major part of epidermis do not produce vitamin D (D6, D5), and the conversion of LA and alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) does not occur. Therefore, the topical application of EFAs on skin in the form PCP is important for the functions and appearance of skin. The hydrating and softening properties of skin and hair are achieved by using plant seed oils rich in FAs, which reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (Bialek et al. 2016).
Waxes are formed by the combination of fatty acid esters with high molecular weight monohydroxy alcohols that are hard brittle substances. Waxes are present in both plants and animals including marine life. They minimize water loss in plants and act as waterproofing agents in animals. Liquid wax (esters) from jojoba seeds and sperm whale oil is used in various commercial cosmetic products as lubricants, wax polishes, and additives (Alvarez and Rodriguez 2000). Wax such as lanolin, a complex mixture of fatty acid esters and high molecular weight aliphatic and steroid alcohol, is obtained from the sebaceous secretions (wool fat) of sheep (Ovis aries). The sebaceous glands secrete an oily and waxy substance known as sebum. It protects and moisturizes the skin and hair, but it may be depleted by chemicals, pollutants, and sun and aging process, resulting in dry skin and hair. It has strong emulsifying properties and is used as a binder, stabilizer, and conditioner in products such as lipsticks, make-up and eye products, creams, and lotions. It is an odorless and tasteless wax lipid which is soluble in mineral oils making it useful in bath oil products (Alvarez and Rodriguez, 2000).
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