New DF 65 and a couple of questions

[Polyfiller]

Hi. Just finished building my first DF65... have to say, generally very impressed with the value for money and also the service from the UK supplier I used (can I call them out here ?) ... anyhow, one key question I have relates to the sheeting angles. I have a Tx with end point adjustment (Tamco 3ch 2.4ghz) and even with EPA set to 120% in both directions for the sail winch channel, I just about get the mainsail out to 90 degrees, and the jib goes out to about75 to 80 degrees. The starting point for the main close hauled is with boom just a little inboard from pointing off the after corner of the transom, and the jib boom about 30 mm from the centre of the mast. Do I have an issue here or; 1) Am I starting from too close a sheeting position or 2) Do I just have a bit of a poor sail winch (luck of the draw maybe) or 3) Should I try and plug in the Joysway Tx & Rx ?

Also wondered if anyone could recommend where to get the wire and kit for crimping loops to enable me to make a jib luff wire ?

And ...I've been doing a lot of playing around with home cut sails .... what would be handy if there was some witchcraft method for attaching the head, tack, clew in a way which didn't require cutting the binds and a re-tie of binds when changing sails on like for like size rig ?

Only real gripe about the kit quality was the control wire run from the steering servo to the rudder - mine was hard up against port side of the cut out in the deck moulding and when I tried bending the wire to improve it, I ran into problem with it binding between the retaining screw post and servo tray support for the plastic servo tray. If this is common, I can understand why some folk are getting steering servo failure.

Anyhow, really looking forward to sailing this. My compliments to the design team and all involved in launching these boats.... very very impressed.

[Joanne Sharpe]

Hi,

Here's a few points on some of the questions that you raised.

The amount of travel that you get in both sails is also influenced by the distance between the attachment point and the swivel point / gooseneck. Try adjusting those to get the boom travel that you want.

You'll find all the bits that you want for a wire jib luff in an angling shop (and lots of other handy bits too). Look for 'pike trace' wire and crimps as a starting point.

Changing sails is usually achieved by having each set of sails attached to a dedicated rig kit, so you change the whole thing without re tieing anything. In practice, this allows you to change up or change down in around a minute, which is what's needed between races when conditions change. Depending on where and when you sail, it's not unheard of to 'go through the card' of A, B and C rigs during a day's sailing.

I hope there's something helpful for you here.

Take care

Joanne

[Polyfiller]

OK, thanks for the reply .... I managed to figure out the jib sheet movement - by looking at a photo on the hints & tips page. <y instructions said to run jib sheet through deck eyes 6 then 7 then 8. Now the hints & tips says to run through deck eye 5 and 8, but doesn't mention the need to re-position the sheeting eye position on the jib boom. I think the hints & tips could be improved very slightly by stating that "In order to obtain sufficient job sheet travel, adjust the job boom slider to be 155mm from the tack mounting eye (my instructions said this should be 200mm) and then run the jib sheet through deck eye 5 then 8 - this should enable the jib to free out to the 90 degree position desired" ..... of course.. ignore my babbling if my situation is indeed a slightly lazy sail winch.

As for jib luff wire, I went to a local tackle shop and they're not using the old wire type traces I was used to seeing years ago.... so any recommendations to suppliers / ebay listings for wire, crimping tools, ferrules etc. ?

My point about changing sails was in relation to changing sails of same rig size.... I'm used to all the clever things I can do on real size boats with splicing dynema, soft shackles and the like.... just wondered if this was anything as thoughtful which would work in model scale. I wonder if it's possible to splice model scale dynema ... not sure my eyes would be up to that!

Thanks again for the input :-)

[David Foster]

It's not unusual to find you need to use 120 to 125 percent EPA when using a different radio. There does seem to be a bit of variation between different servos, but nothing to worry about from what I have seen.

I don't think the hints and tips could really be more specific as each person has a different way of setting up their boat and you will rarely find 2 boats set up the same, yet performing similarly. Different amounts of rake, mast bend , cut of sails etc can all require a different jib sheeting position, amongst others, to balance the boat.

I don't know of any realistic way of swapping sails on a rig without retying the various knots, but I have used the same sails for nearly 2 years now, so not been a problem. I prefer to stick with one setup and learn to make the most of that, rather than keep swapping.

David .

[David Foster]

Re. Jib luff wire, crimps etc. Housemartin Sails, PJ Sails, SailsEtc, Nylett, Graphite, Soch Sails and any other of the sail manufacturers ought to be able to supply them.

Alternatively, many model shops sell suitable wire, often supplied as control wires for closed loop systems on model aircraft. Or, try Ebay.

David.

[Chris More]

For quick change of sails I have used stiff wire as a temporary attachment.  Wire that is not quite as thick as a paperclip, something like electronics wire.  Just one loop and a twist will hold ok and makes for easy adjustments to be made when testing different sails.  This won't be class legal, so racing is out.

For the forestay, I use this stuff on the IOM.  75lbs and it comes with the crimps.  Can't see the advantage of wire luff on a DF, as it is not adjustable.

http://www.fishtec.co.uk/buy.cfm/boating-equipment/sakuma-nylon-covered-trace-wire/40/yes/55459

[Wayne Stobbs]

the only problem I have with the Fishing wire is that it is designed to rust away to prevent fish from swimming around for the rest of their lives with a hook and trace hanging out of their mouths.

The rate I go through sails means that this is not a problem, but I have started to use the stuff from SailsETC which will last much longer.  http://www.sailsetc2.com/index.php/products-by-category/spars-rigging/standing-rigging/wire045.html and http://www.sailsetc2.com/index.php/products-by-category/spars-rigging/standing-rigging/crimps-171.html.

However, my opinion is that there is no need for a wire luff.  The loads are so low that 60lb Dynema is plenty.