Hi all,
almost month ago I saw some Acorn Electron repair videos from Adrian Black and I almost immediatelly fell in love with this tiny machine with huge Ferranti ULA and almost nothing else on small PCB .... so I fot one "untested assumed faulty" fomr ebay for $43 GBP.
This thing arrived okay, not working, but immediate idea was to reseat ULA (it is getting hot as hell and moving in and expanding the socket (its issue4 board) and it even screams for drop of MX4 under the metal cover and some adhesive heatsink on top .... after 20 minutes its not possible to hold fingers on it, I dont measured it but expecing even 70deg or so ... crazy;
After cleaning of ULA socket and chip with IPA the machine was alive ... there was no PSU 19VAC, but I immediatelly bypassed/removed the internal PSU unit and connected only +5V form USB source, leaving -5V floating (later surprises, sure, I mixed the knowledge with Plus/4 where -5V is only for tape motor or so...) ... this way it was brought back into life (and I never knew anything about BBC Micro et al...). Keyboard with nice Futaba switches is woderfull (similar to AtariXL I had in 86-91, but possibly even better...) although 2 top rows had some dusty plastics inside them probably, mechanically resisiting especially with angled pushes, sure ... so I removed all the keycaps (soap water only then, no brightening yet, it looks okay) and started to bring IPA and mechanically torturing the keycaps internals quite heavily, and those 2 lines of keyboard are now almost perfect too... otherwise all needs to be desoldered, hard thing...
One thing which is crazy on BBC Micro and especially on that Electron is that it has BREAK key (in fact switch just connected to CPU reset) at possition of todays BackSpace/Delete ... deathfull thing ... so, I am not retro purist and as this particula key is isolated on keyboard assembly PCB, not part of matrix, I isolated it hard way on traces and aliased this one with bodges to DELETE key which is cca 6cm below this one (of course, I swaped the keycaps too, excuse me Acorn ...). For BREAK/RESET I made tiny 5x5mm space in right part of bottom cover "grills" and put there microswitch with my loved machined pins sockets as 3pin "connector/receptacle" (these single line machined pins/sockets are really good as simple connectors, -I love them).
Then, having empty space of former PSU unit ... I started to think about battery/powerbank power for this thing ... having it powered for several hours from 10Ah xiaomi thing ... nice (Electron draw cca 0.75A at 5V, while poor ULA is probably half of this ...)... ya that powerbank dismounted fits there well, so I will put rocker switch in place of right barrel PCU connector and on left side is already USB-C dumb receptacle (for 2.4A 5V max from dump bricks, the smarter one needs some resistors on data ... the cheap xternal receptacle doesnt have them, but it was all easily mountable only using sharp reakable knife into center of bottom/top cover, only food alignment (of mounted case rather) is necessary ...
Sure, then I tried to use TAPE against sony digital dictaphone (and Audacity, sure), but there was drastic noise even on output ... now by schematic I realized the LM324 is really powered symetrically and needs that -5V too ... initially I only shorted -5V to GND, which helped with output (toally clean now, sure, nice) but input still not working ... sure; so I found ICL7660 polarity inverters here and abused one as deadbug with 10u and 47u on PCB power connector ... ok, solved, tape works perfectly .... but, that deadbug was brutally ugly, and then I started to think about even more deepre surgery in fact in relation to ather my projects related to 3V3 .. of course )) ...
PCB got that machined pins as new power connctor, this way 4 pins, as the pitch of original connector then almost fits those 4 with 2.54mm. Sure original PSU connectio uses some heavy/thick pins wchich can probably withstand 50A or so ... those machined pins are be okay up to 5A I am sure... 1A is nice (AtariXL has also spec of PSU at 1A, that big heavy transformer ...). Btw, as I really like the USB as single power source, even only 5V using some DCDCs on target, not plaing with USB-PD or QC anyhow ... also Sinclair QL and C Plus/4 (things I have here as only ziny selection of interestin machines) use negative voltages only for some quite weird and unimportant things, these days... later)
So, what about 7x74 ??? D-IP interposers ... I returned after that "mid may nukedc event" here, when I smartly accidentally cleaned my entire win C drive and I lost some things supposed to be synced by MS guys to onedrive, but this bloody thing stoped syncing me exactly at end of 2025 (probably 300k+ files, some weird filenames, no space issue ...). Well, so I tried cheap "DMDE" disk recovery tool (on magnetic drives it WILL be okay and do something good for you, on SSD with trim ... no way; I also dont reacted quickly, sure ...when this happens to you, ... pull plug from the mechine immediatelly and then start to think, and ask .... you may be more lucky than me ))
well, back to 7x74 D-IP ... I have few made by JLCPCB here, gerbers are not lost, sure, my Kicad sources are lost, but nevermind, I will need also some more variants, and I now also know what are and how will these be done, I was using chatgpt history deeply to recover my "knowledge/projects timeline" of 2026+ ... (btw, 7xtgv working demo also lost, but Lyra keeps generated code in cloud, so I have this back too ... so far so good).
Those D-IP interposer can be in fact used in pair for "socketing DIPs", just instead of regular DIP sockets, possible to solder D-IP in place of DIP from TOP by flowing solder into holes, without any kind of wire/pin ... no problem... AND in case of precious PCB, where you want to replace soldered DIPs with sockets, its sometimes VERY HARD to remove them, at least dangerous ... so, one possibility is very deep surgery and extraction of the DIPs the "ugly way" ... this ussualy means throwing them away too, but in case of 7x74 D-IP interposers, you can save them and solder theirs ugly legs (after some tweaking/aligining/leveling after extractions) directly easily onto D-IP (you can hqve prepared batch of "hotplate" soldered 7x74 2x10pin 1.27mm connectors on them, where I settled after many hours of thinking on the scheme where motherboard has PINS and not female sockets ... these sockets are on chip/hybrids ... intentionally; ... its not because pins are fragile, they are not, on that 1.27mm dual line and LOW-profile, you have not almost chance to bend them ... no, but chips using sockets are simply still easier to handle ... of course hotplate soldering of them is one step more complicated, as you need to PARTIALLY(!) insert into socket also the SMD pins which serve ONLY as (disposable mostly) "heatpipe", this way process of soldering is EASY, repeatable, I figured out almost 100% reliability, its easy as far as Parkinson and that other german guy are not living nearby ....
So Acorn Electron is conducting quite deep/heavy experimental surgery now, while possibly will be tried also once to run at 3V3 (as that Ferranti -ULA, has this in spec too, even that Lyra thinks that obviously its not sure that custom internaly will work as expected ...). But, I also want to try to replace those 74LS and 74S with modern parts allowing 3V3, either HC or LVC (aka toshiba VHC/LCX, I love them, cheap, nice datasheets, but not entire family, sure ... some older chips are not done using new tech)
Along with that Electron, I already mounted few 7x74 D-IPs on already soldered RCBus lowprofile boards, where I was too fast and put there DIP sockets ...in fact to stay flat/lowprofile also in "interboard spacing", these sockets are WASTE, as D-IP soldered directly on the PCB (and even on hardly extracted chips/sockets, leaving residues in holes, no issue) having 2x10 1.27mm pins as 7x74 ""standard"" (in this case mapping pins 1:1 to DIP, sure - ther WILL be also narrow 24/28/32 plus fat/wide 24/28/32/40 at least ... again breakable interposers, using in this case the 2x20 pins/sockets - it is NOT possibel to combine huge amount of 2x10 to create 2x20 ... mechanically its unfortunatelly impossible, and making 1pin space is not clever ... so say 7x127 ""standard" for larger DIPs and even TSOP/BGA mostly memory SRAM/DRAM/SDRAM chips will use strictly 2x20 and 2x30 ... not expecing to torture this way 32bit chips in tsop86/bga90 ... )
So Electron is on surgeons table, ya ... fingers Xed to bring it back into life (anyway, I expected it will arrive in far worse state, so I will try on him my new Siglent 4ch scope, older thing SDS1104X-E, not unlocked yet ... I dont like these touchy/slow andridized instruments ... ummm, okay). Btw, I was heavily considering good SI for 7xmem/7xmod both variants of connection (2x40 1.27mm and sodimm "DDR2/80+GND") and only recently I found also TangPrimer25K kit with SDRAM module, originated by MiSTer (I never thought about this as its mostly for gaming ... and it seems the guys were cheek to put there only single GND ... so Sipeed was forced to modify it with heavy pullups and CLK damping ... bt they go over dual 2.54mm connector up to 160MHz now probably too)... this Tang is really interesting modular thing also, I will design also something to integrate my/theirs SDRAM module for 7xmem, its good even for testing now ... plus also still is in game the fast and fastesr stm32 as an 7xsys CPLD simulation thing...
Ya, last months were concentrated mostly on "design for mesurement", how to do testpoints, what probing to use (just resitive using thin coax to 50ohm terminator is okay ... btw BEST coax for ANYTHING seems to be RG178, VERY easy work with this one, it looks extremely thin, but usomg sat-cable stripped does perect job and then only scalpel to remove outer insulation ... PERFECT, really ... I made from it also composite video cable and even tpe interface ...)
pls, stay tuned :-)
P.
cool (actually HOT AS HELL) Ferranti ULA ...
sane BackSpace/DELETE ... excuse me, I never has this before ...
new RESET/BREAK microswitch (ctrl+break does hard reset, but even then basic program still stays in memory, use OLD command to restore it, ... sad thing is, it clears you memory in case you hit this break ... supposed backspace ...)
interestingly, MOS *KEY 10 allows you to persist ""autostart" key-sequence, which survives reset too ...
that cool thin RG178 coax, really perect work with this, if you never tried, lets try, I will not be doing anything shielded with different cable ... idea was to have coax thin anoug under 1.27mm for my 7xmem/7xmod tes-measurement "walls" (for best SI scanning, to have short gnd path, having all the signals with its own gnd for simple probe insertion - the probe is just cca 1k ohm resistor on live pin of coax, against scope 50ohm input, for my siglent, I needd to have there 50ohm terminated adaptors, sure) ...

tape in/out tested, good
this "octopus" is ICL7660 deadbug with some logs cut...
(will not change it, but it really needed better connector here ...)
before "deep surger", only cosmetic removal of these large/wigly 33n blockers,
even for dismounting DIPs, I wanted to take them out and put there mechanically smaller 100n blue MLCC-based ... in SMD world you even may simply use highr values as 1u or 2u or more ... as long as they are TINY ... that matters for blocking far more finally ...





testing of some mixtures of solder and flux, sadly I even dont know what that my best was originals made from ... but now I mix this with "jellybean rework" mosttly, that more flid thing is not good ... you need to have the mixture "sticky" as you are putting the PCB upside down with temporarily glued connector/heatpipes (or conn + temp heatpipes)
(as long as it heats up, its gone ... you MAY add some new, but generally, if you are carefull to center the thing well, its okay ... I have almost no errors now, and if they are, then ONLY "not soldering" and almost never "shorts", uven by spreading the mixture over all the solder pads and even over the gaps between them ... no issue, and I am using for mixing and even puting mixture that "ear clening tips" (halved and eventually cleaned by pliers shortening the dirty part by 5mm or so, several times) ... it turned to be ideal, better than syringe metal tip, so far so good ...baking these 7x74 / D-IP is childs play now ...

ya, no way to lay these 2x10pin sockets nearby .......
so, mandatory 2x20 and 2x30 (and 2x40 whis is full 7xmem/7xmod anyway)
(those smaller 20/30 for raw chips, to have them all socketable like 7x74,
I call this just 7x127 now ... and the goal is to have unified "logical pinout" even for all SRAM and SDRAM (or fpm/edo DRAM in some cases, like Electron ...) despite some in DIP or TSOP packages DONT have unified pinout and are not drop-in replacements ...
this "logical socketing" is supposed to overcome that also ... of course, different pinouts for SRAM and SDRAM, sure ... different layouts for horizontal mounting like those 7x74 we sed before ... and for VERTICAL mounting .. when you can save lot of space een on RCBus cards ... when designed for 7x74 / 7x127 pinouts ... and those chips/hybrids then can be (temporarily) inserted directly into "pinned sockets" using that ShenLIF concept ... when the PCB inserted is exactly 1mm thick - and may be even better HASL than ENIG ...)
RCBus card example with D-IP interposers instead of DIP sockets ..
(they dont look very nice here, but it is not affecting function, sure )))
Electron logic chips before surgery .... hard to desolder them, finally decided to be ugly and use "the tool" ...
short process ....
set of extracted 74s, some in not very good shape, but I will socket them on D-IP anyway ...
poor 74F saved from that XT board, I in fact thought I will never pull those, but now using 7x7x D-IP interposers... no problem to revive them this way as socketable things ....
sincerelly,
Petr