What Is A Cracked Cylinder

[Ulrike Dweck]

Ilike to sew every day. 2-6 layers of 2-4 ounce chrome tanned leather (but that could change!). I'm a beginner and this is a hobby. I might sell extras I don't give as gifts or keep for myself, but probably not as a business.

I'm not that great mechanically. I'm okay. Are ALL industial machines kind of temperamental? My Singer 111w155 was in rough shape when we got it and it seems like it's always having little problems. Like 30 minutes of TLC troubleshooting a day.

I was wondering if you could give me advice on a sewing machine? Or a dealer? I'm in Chesapeake, Virginia. I was thinking a cylinder arm with one of the attachments Uwe makes for the flat bed.

Do I need to pay for the Juki 1341? It looks like they're around $5,000 USD just from a quick internet search. As usual, I'm kind of looking at the Techsew 2750 pro. But I'm nervous that it might be kind of prone to problems compared to the Juki and maybe I should get like a refurbished Juki 341 or 1341?

So you either end up with (at least) 2 machines or you rethink your material thicknesses. You really want to sew 15mm (take a ruler and check) or is it rather less? Its less, right? Layers do not matter really, the total material thickness matters.

New or refurbished doesn't matter in the end. You can have new machines which are poorly set up / do not suit your needs or you can have a refurbished machine which is set up perfectly for what you want to do. That often depends on your dealer or the seller. Cant be wrong if you check with dealer who is specialized in leather sewing machines. Machines often look the same but can be set up for different purposes. If you buy used from a private seller always test the machine with the max. thread and material thickness you want to sew. But keep in mind the motor matters a lot. Its not only the machine that has to suit your needs, the motor is very important too. So it can happen that your machine is great but the motor sucks (too fast, not powerful enough...).

Thank you for replying! It's not that unusual in bag making. I need to topstitch where the straps attach to the bag. My straps are 4 layers thick, on some designs the top of the bag is 2 layers.

Both the Juki 1341 and Techsew 2750 probably will not be suitable as their max sewing limit is below what you want to sew. You need to go into the 441 class machines. Another consideration is going to be what thread size you want / need to use. Class 341 class machines top thread is V207 with a bobbin thread of V138.

Consider the strength of various sizes of thread when searching for a suitable machine. For instance, any sewing machine I have had, from plastic body domestics through the heaviest iron body industrials can sew with #69 (aka: T70) bonded thread, using a #18 (aka: 110) needle (round point for cloth/vinyl; leather point for leather). The thickness each machine can sew together varies from machine to machine. Light duty machines will max out with #69 thread while harness stitchers are not gentle enough to handle it with grace.

Number 69 thread is fine for non load bearing, thin seams (2 through 4 oz), as it has about 11 pounds breaking strength. But, as you add tab and strap layers on top of base layers, you can easily get over 8 - 12 ounces. This thickness is better sewn with 22 pound test #138 thread.

So, as you are looking for your best starter machine, consider not only the thickness range to be sewn, but also the strength of thread needed to hold the various thicknesses together against pulls, tugs, heavy loads, or getting caught on a door handle. If you think you can get by using thread sizes 69, 92 and 138, any modern industrial sewing machine that has enough rated operating clearance for your thickest seams should handle it.

If you want to sew with #207 thread, for stitch strength purposes, look for a heavy duty machine that is built with that size thread in mind. It will have tougher take-up and tension components than a medium duty machine built for an upper limit of #138 thread.

Are ALL industial machines kind of temperamental? My Singer 111w155 was in rough shape when we got it and it seems like it's always having little problems. Like 30 minutes of TLC troubleshooting a day.

Thank you! That's kind of what I was hoping to hear, that they're mostly relaible. The bobbin thread doesn't catch/stitch or else needle thread breaks. It will do great on scrap leather of the exact same hide and layers and then I go to stitch the bag and I have problems. I followed Uwe's youtube video about the hook and needle timing and that helped a lot, but I'm still having problems with it.

Cylinder is one of the basic 3d shapes, in geometry, which has two parallel circular bases at a distance. The two circular bases are joined by a curved surface, at a fixed distance from the center. The line segment joining the center of two circular bases is the axis of the cylinder. The distance between the two circular bases is called the height of the cylinder. LPG gas-cylinder is one of the real-life examples of cylinders.

Since, the cylinder is a three-dimensional shape, therefore it has two major properties, i.e., surface area and volume. The total surface area of the cylinder is equal to the sum of its curved surface area and area of the two circular bases. The space occupied by a cylinder in three dimensions is called its volume.

Here we will learn about its definition, formulas, properties of cylinder and will solve some examples based on them. Apart from this figure, we have concepts of Sphere, Cone, Cuboid, Cube, etc. which we learn in Solid Geometry.

A cylinder is a three-dimensional shape consisting of two parallel circular bases, joined by a curved surface. The center of the circular bases overlaps each other to form a right cylinder. The line segment joining the two centers is the axis, that denotes the height of the cylinder.

Every three dimensional shape or a solid has volume that occupies some space. The volume of the cylinder is the space occupied by it in any three-dimensional plane. The amount of water that could be immersed in a cylinder is described by its volume. The formula for the volume of cylinder is given by:

Cutting wet beans in drizzly conditions I've ran the 7720 cylinder full speed. The 9600 is larger diameter and has a higher max speed, so I don't think I've maxed it, but I've had it up to 1000 in extreme conditions.

I prefer to run in high side as much as possible in beans because the power delivery is much better and you get a lot less growling and rumbling out of the cylinder. If the beans are especially dry then you will want to stay on low side and stay with the lower speeds. Usually in decent conditions I settle in at the minimum speed on high side. Excessively dry I will go to low side, tough, I will speed up. In extreme conditions I have been as high as 1000 rpm. Just go however fast it takes to get the beans out of the pods.

Generally speaking, I would recommend decreasing the concave spacing before gettting radical with the cylinder speed. Any time I am speeding the cylinder up greatly, I am already at minimum concave spacing.

She's two years old with 70k miles on her. She still has many miles and many years of comfort and service left in her. With 70k she falls under sever duty maintenance. Your path of resolution makes sense and are all things that require changing at some point.

you sir are absolutely correct! In any case, seems to be a fair bit of annual mileage on the vehicle, so you would not think typical severe operating conditions type issues. But never hurts to start with looking at the plugs, as they tell the story of what is happening inside the engine.

Rod is longer on the pre-98 motors, I don't think your deck height will work out with anything older than 98. Its a 2mm difference. It's all good though, the pre-98 cylinder design sucked and you're not missing out. Even if it comes with power valves I'll bet they're worn out anyway. Lot of aluminum gears in there that go away real quick once the anodizing is worn through.

2002 is the best iteration of that motor. More potential in there than the 98-01 cylinder although the design is similar. If you have a 2002 cylinder with the matching power valve, you would be way better off having it replated than you would by substituting and older jug.

That motor is a 2002 bottom end. Kawasaki used the same base gasket pattern for many years. Almost the same from 95-02, only difference being the later years had locating dowels and reshaped transfer tunnels.

A 97 cylinder will bolt on if you pull the locating dowels out of the cases. Your deck height will be 2mm below the top of the cylinder with the 02 rod and your port timing will be advanced by 2mm all the way around. If it even made enough compression to start it would run like shit and make no power.

In any case, that rod shows bluing and discoloration, indicating overheating. Bottom end is toasted, needs a crank, main bearings and crank seals too. I imagine that the debris from the big end bearing coming apart is what scored your cylinder to begin with.

If you can't afford a replate you are certainly going to be tapped out with a bottom end rebuild. This sport can be expensive. The bikes are good when maintained, you get a lot of hours out of them. In this case with a 20 year old 125, it's way overdue for some major engine work. Often the bottom end will be damaged by infrequent or sloppy air filter servicing or insufficient premix ratio. Over 20 years, who knows what it's been through. All we know is that it's beat and needs the cases split for a full rebuild.

What I'm basically trying to tell you is that it is a really bad idea to try to install a 97 cylinder on your 02 motor. Lot of work for a motor that makes less power even if it's at 100%. Then when whatever is left of the teeth on those power valves wears out you're down even more power.

Not to hijack the thread, but it keeps me happy and my skills sharp. Whatever i don't know i will find out about. It gets boring being home on disability. Right now I am trying to figure out what my next career path will be.

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