Millions of installs and more than seven years later, CarX Drift Racing is still thriving, even boasting a lite version and a direct sequel. With that said, we are going to take a quick overview of some of the elements of this game namely the graphics, gameplay, and ambiance, among others to find out if it is still worth playing in 2021.
Given its age, the developers of CarX Drift Racing did an awesome job in making sure that the game stays fresh and visually stunning. Each detail in the game from the cars to the tracks were handled perfectly to provide a seamlessly realistic experience to the player. Not to mention the realistic ambiance brought by the brilliantly rendered BGM and sound effects.
With that said, the gameplay in CarX Drift Racing is not perfect but it is solid enough to play. For starters, the game does not come with a gamepad or joystick support. This means that you cannot play this game using your console controllers. The lack of controller support may turn off some players, especially those who are new to these types of races.
As for features, CarX Drift Racing comes with all the goodies a racing game requires. First is the Career Mode that comes with 40 unlockable sports cars. Then there is the Online World Time Attack Challenge that comes with a global leaderboard ranking. Overall, CarX Drift Racing provides AAA quality experience free of charge. That alone is already a valid reason why this game is worth checking out in 2021.
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Unless you are using the G920 on the PC version of FH4, It isnt the game. There is a bug on the PC version with that wheel, which makes it behave in a very odd way. But on the xbox one console; it works brilliantly.
What it boils down too, more often than not, is a combination of experience levels and poor in game wheel settings. Using sim steering can also cause issues, as it makes the steering input feel very sensitive, and more difficult to countersteer. To a level I have never seen in any other racing title that even remotely trys to simulate real world physics. Not to mention even more realistic titles, such as Assetto Corsa as one example.
Force Feedback Scale is not an overall volume control for the force feedback effects, but it does control some of the dynamic effects; along with increasing the aligning forces from FFB Understeer and FFB Minimum.
FFB Minimum, is not a minimum force slider. It pertains to the pneumatic feeling of the force feedback. It basically allows you to feel the weight of the car while cornering as the tires load up to their maximum grip. Having this setting too high, can allow you to feel a very large drop off in forces once peak grip is exceeded. I run this one fairly low, enough to feel the weight; but no way near enough to feel that drop off in forces once peak grip is exceeded.
You also need to use some centre spring, how much depends on personal preference. Have it too high though, and it will hamper the other forces felt through the wheel. This setting aids in self aligning while in motion, but is dynamic; so allows self steer to still work properly while drifting. I had this at 100 in my video, but you could probably run this at 50.
(this setting is broken on the PC version with the G920, and causes the wheel to self rotate back to centre, no matter what position it is on, or if the car is moving/stationary. This setting works as it should on the Xbox one version with the G920, and works perfectly with my T300RS on the PC, so I have no idea what is going on there.)
In my opinion it feels (compared to controller) like you loose all connection to the car. Like the momentum inputs come in too late or my countersteering when momentum kicks in is recieved too late by the console.
I cant go much into how I drift atm, but for the most part; I use techniques designed to use the cars inertia to initiate and extend the drifts. So this includes flicks, foot brake induced feints, things of that nature. Then I use the throttle in a modular fashion, and remain as smooth as possible.
And make sure to ALWAYS turn Wheel Damping off when using a Logitech wheel, doesnt matter if its the G920, G29, G27 or the G25. Damping is the enemy to that wheel, and will slow it down stop it from been able to self rotate and react to what the car is doing.
Welp, a lot of people use a wheel for the first time and honestyly; they are not used to using them. They try to run before they can walk, and just often jump into the fastest cars going. Its the worst way to learn, and puts them off. Other people set them up badly. Case by case things unfortunatly.
With regards to the broken wheel, well, your particular issue often comes from a combination of poor settings and brute force. The cogs have most likely been sheered inside, they are only plastic. All wheels have their issues though. I had 2 Thrustmaster TX wheels, one burnt out after 6 months, the other was dead on arrival. I bought a G27 to use on the PC then, and I bought a G920 for the Xbox. I have had my G920 since early 2016, and still works perfectly.
If you think spending more money on a wheel will give you a better experiance though, it wont. If this is your first wheel, most of what has happened to you; is most likely down to user error. As much as you may not want to hear that, it is the most likely cause. So your problems will still follow, no matter how much you spend. But, even so, a little helpful advice.
If you want to remove the easilly broken belts and cogs out of it, then there is the Fanatec Podium direct drive wheel that just released; but that is big bucks for that. And you would need a very robust cockpit rig to seat it on.
With regards to learning how to drive a car on a wheel, start slow. Cars with low power, and get used to how it handles. Then go to something more powerful in increments. Only try to learn drifting once you have the fundementals of car control on a racing wheel down, otherwise you will just trip yourself up more; and overcomplicate matters.
The G920, by the way, will take a lot of abuse; when the settings are done right. I have it on everything from iRacing, Assetto Corsa (racing and drifting), Pcars 1 and 2, and even rally games like WRC and Dirt.
Anyway, ive offered up my advice. So I will leave it at that. Just try to remember that not everyone has 20+ years of experience with racing wheels, some only have a few days worth before passing judgment on racing wheels, or a particular game. It takes time to learn them, it takes time to know how to set them up in games, and it takes time to get good with them. They are hard work, but it is worth it in the end. Even with the G920.
Hi lalyrn just come across this thread as was having issues as well, now using your recommendations and there is alot of improvement going to tune my parctice car(mx-5 miatia) and go from there thanks.
@N2O KNIGHT Dont feel bad man, I had the same issues, takes about a week or two, but what worked for me pretty quickly was turning wheel rotation down to 240/260 to start with, get a low horsepower car, in my case it was the 1974 Toyota Corolla SR5, go on a big somewhat flat grass paddock/field and just start small, doing small donuts learning how the car reacts to your inputs, learning the grabbing point/counter steer points etc, Work your way up to figure eights doing the same again, then take it to the road, it worked for me 100% instantly. I think the biggest problem is people coming from controller/keyboard and expecting to link corners straight away and its not the case. Im 30+ years old, owned, driven and drifted many of cars and there is some real world similarities that only driving experience in real world can give you, like for me my body automatically breaks when I need to after driving a real car for 20+ years. As with any game as well, its muscle memory, practice and messing with settings. But for me, the wheel rotation was the biggest key, work your way from 240/260 up to 540/720/900.
First thing to mention is the story found in DRIFTCE, and oddly, given that this is a racing game, it is entirely absent. We are given the keys to a garage, a car, and access to lots of bits and pieces to nail to said vehicles. From there we are unleashed onto a track to see if we can go sideways. With no time wasted on the narrative, we can spend more time tinkering and sliding. Win win, right?
Now, the gameplay. This is the proverbial story of two halves, with the time in DRIFTCE spent split pretty evenly between the garage, where you fettle the cars that you have bought, and the track, where you see if the improvements you have made are working. Oh, and you can also fulfil missions to earn cash to plough back into your steed.
Taking a look at the garage side of things first and when you buy a car it does seem to come with a few things missing; omissions that would have you on the phone to Watchdog in a heartbeat. An engine? A gearbox? Optional extras innit bruv. Or so it appears!
What this does mean is that you can pretty much shoehorn any engine into any car, as my Mazda MX-5 running a quad rotor rotary engine would attest to. The process for doing this is by turns both fascinating and frustrating, as you need to first of all build the engine on an engine stand, before sticking it under the bonnet of your car. Once it is in place you then need to buy and fit the various hoses and exhaust parts in order to make the engine run, and luckily, with a single press of a button, you can have the missing parts highlighted in green, making it much easier to see where you need to put stuff.
With the wide range of fully licensed cars (an addition I was happy to see, I love to have my AE86 called an AE86) there is almost no end to what you can make. AE86 with a V8? Mustang with a four pot engine? Yep, all doable. The only difficulty I have had is in fitting tyres to my car, as for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get them nailed to the rims. Other than that, DRIFTCE is all lots of fun
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