Thanks very much for letting me know about that option.
I tried setting it in the gerrit 3.8.1 ui; i.e. I set "Create a new change for every commit not in the target branch" to true in the relevant project.
Initially, I thought the option was not working, but it appears I was hitting a defect in git-review:
* jmuir/foo b570abc [origin/jmuir/foo] even more foo
master 72bef46 [origin/master] more foo, more testing
$ git review -r origin master
No changes between HEAD and origin/master. Submitting for review would
be pointless.
$ git review -r origin --no-track master
No changes between HEAD and origin/master. Submitting for review would
be pointless.
$ git push origin HEAD:refs/for/master