Furmark 1.29

[Trisha Quercioli]

Thediscussion of static pressure vs airflow is a long one and covered in great depth many places around the web. The short version is the depth of the fan (or fan blades) has a greater determination on the static pressure rating, rather than fan diameter. I have a Noiseblocker 40mm fan that crushes your beloved SP120 with a 1.66 mm (water) rating -- but you certainly wouldn't want to put it on your radiator.

When it comes to radiator cooling effectiveness, surface area is the largest variable. Most AIO cooler manufacturers put out a thinner 280mm rad vs a thicker 240mm. While theoretically the 280 would be even more effective as a thicker unit, the thinner rad allows people to run a pair of slow speed 140mm fans. This is the quiet set up. It gives people who want a low noise solution near equal cooling power to someone running a thick 40 or 50mm radiator and blasting a pair of 120's through it. Rather than think of the H105 and 110 as competing coolers, view them as two different solutions for people with different goals. Although, I am sure marketing would like to have the final say on that. You'll also need to ask them about your LED's.

1.29 mm vs 1.17 mm is not a significant difference for your real world cooling unless you intend to run your fans at maximum all the time and are pushing your thermal limits as far as they can go. Those two numbers only exist at the peak RPM for each fan. As you lower rpm, the sp numbers drop. While P-Q curves are usually somewhat linear, mathematically they are not and that .12 difference will not hold constant as the speed drops. Most 140mm fans will have a lower max speed than a comparable 120mm, so it is always likely a static pressure designed 120 will produce a a higher rating at maximum speed. But is that where you will run your fans? At the same speed, say 800 rpm, it is highly likely the 140mm fan will have a higher static pressure rating. The fact you can keep your system that cool running at paltry fan speeds (400-500rpm) means static pressure is not an issue for you. Most of us would love to be able to run our fans that low, although you could put 18 of my Noiseblocker's on your 240 rad.

The honest truth is that we just haven't aggressively developed 140mm fans since 120mm fans are more common and more standard. But people were asking for a 140mm SP fan, so when the SP LEDs went into development we just added the 140 then. I know, it's weird.

The 140mm SP LEDs do work well, though. And be careful not to put too much stock in the stated specifications and performance of competing fans; a lot of our competitors have a habit of exaggerating (sometimes grossly) these numbers.

Subscribed for updates on non-LED SP140 fans with interchangeable color rings. I have a case full of SP120's and an AF140 for the rear case exhaust but my front 280mm radiator would look real nice with some matching fans to replace my ugly Noctua fans on the front of my radiator and to replace the weak AF140 I have on the inside of the front radiator.

I've been doing some research and noticed that the Alphacool UT60 radiator has a relatively low fin count and are suitable for low speed fans so I should be fine using the AF140 fans until Corsair releases some new non-LED SP140's.

Until Corsair releases some non-LED SP140 fans I've gone ahead and added one of my extra AF140 fans to the front radiator in PULL configuration. The results are positive! Temps on average are 1-2 degrees cooler, the system runs quieter with having also reduced the fan speeds all around with the additional airflow of the PUSH/PULL configuration and while gaming the fans don't spin up as much as they used to. Will be adding a spacer to my front radiator lower compression fitting in the future to allow a second fan to be added in PULL configuration but until then I'm pretty happy with the results. I was hesitant at first to put the AF140 on the radiator but having done a bit of reading the AF140's are ok to be used in PULL only configuration on radiators with low FPI like the Alphacool. :thumb:

then i download the latest bios from asus website, using UEFITool to Extract Body and save it to Z77VP.Bin file, then use FD44Editor to input the MAC ,UUID[use ramdom number] and serial number[get it from the box] and save it.

i first Erase the chip using CH341A, then open the Z77VP.Bin then Write to the chip without any problem, but when i try to Verify, i get the error : "Chip with the contents are in disagreement" . i try 1.18, 1.29, 1.30 version of the programmer all same error.

when i put the bios chip back to the motherboard, i get a 4 short beep follow with one short beep but higher tone. the system still no post.

now i no know what to do. is the Bios Chip damage? or the motherboard problem?

thanks.

my system is :

P8Z77V-PRO

I7-3770k

Cooler Master Nepton 240M

Kingston 8GB DDR3 X 4

AMD Fury X

Samsung 840 EVO 250GB

WD Black 1TB

ASUS Xonar D2X PCI-E

Seasonic X 750w

Windows 10 64bit pro

Update: the original bios chip is bad. after replace the chip and flash it with CH341A, all good now. Thanks.

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