Im going to print some photos for an exhibition at 50x70 cm (or maybe 40x46 cm). My photos are taken with a Nikon D7000, 18-105 lens which has a slightly wider crop (800x530 or 906x400 if I scale it, keeping the ratio). I understand that considering a print that should fit a standard frame, the aspect ratio should match; however it's usually the case that you end up cutting some millimeters from each side of the print to fit it into the frame or MDF, whatever.
I googled and searched the questions here and this was the closest I could get: What and how to crop? I did check all answers but there's just some information about the cropping aspect ratio and it doesn't quite explain the issue in my question.
Your D7000 has a native resolution of 49283264; from that you can make a 1.4:1 crop of 45703264. You should be aiming to use as much of the pixel data you have as possible when printing - attempting to print an 800600 crop at sizes around 50cm will just look completely horrible as each pixel will be very, very obvious.
You should always only crop to the ratio, ie. the relation of width and height, you want to achive, while retaining the highest possible pixel count! Never reduce your image size, if you can avoid it.
Be aware that it's the proportion that is important here, rather than the dimensions. If you crop to 800x600px as you specify, then your image will only print at around 8.5cm across by about 6cm tall if you print at 240ppi resolution. I think it is the ratio of the long edge to the short edge that you need to remember, so 800x600px is a ratio of 4:3.
In answer to your question, I think it is important that you don't lose the composition of your image in trying to get an image to be at a particular proportion, eg 4:3. Unless there are specific rules set out by the exhibition that say the images need to be a particular proportion, then I would avoid cropping altogether. I realise that you mention fitting them into a standard frame, but I would suggest getting frames/mounts made to match the images. If this is being done by a good professional framer, then when they cut the mount board, the depth of the board as you look at the image on the top, left and right edges will be the same, and the bottom edge will be somewhere around 10% deeper. It creates a more pleasing way of looking at a mounted image.
Other advantages to getting each image frame/mount made are that a good framer will be able to make recommendations on the framing material, colour, size etc, and on the mount board colour, and these factors can really enhance the way an image is perceived by viewers.
Want to have that one special photo printed in a large size? At Print&Bind we can print your photo in the size 50x70 cm, a size for which we also sell black picture frames. We always print 50x70 cm photos in high-quality on sturdy satin paper that is slightly glossy.
Our laser printers print photos in a resolution of 1200x4800 dpi, so images will look super sharp. Make sure the photo you upload for your 50x70 cm print has a resolution of at least 300 dpi. If the resolution of your file is lower than this, your photo might be printed pixelated.
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The largest print-size I can use on my current printer is the A3+-size (13x19"). And I make a lot of prints at that size. I've always had problems mounting these prints though, as I can't seem to find a standardized passe-partout that'll fit inside a standard 50x70cm frame AND the print-size.
The passe-partouts came in a purpose-built plywood box mounted with screws; a non-flexing tight unit. The passe-partouts were insulated from the box with cardboard wedges, eliminating any possibility of movement inside the box during transport. So professional!
If you order passe-partouts together with the frames they will have custom cutouts. Slightly more expensive than what you got, but all shipped in one package. I am aiming for 50x65 though with a 9cm passe-partout frame.
The cutouts on my passe-partouts were custom made according my specification, at 32X47cm to maximize print size, and they are positioned differently according to the photo's orientation, vertical or horizontal. The margin on top is narrower than the one on the bottom according to tradition. I ordered 7 for vertical shots and 10 for horizontal ones.
I don't aim for longevity either, as I tend to tire of the photos after a few years anyway, and change them around a lot. I don't do exhibitions, and I hardly sell anything (I tend to give them away to people who like them)........
Bloody expensive, but should handle frequent image changes much better than other frames. And no need to fix the image itself to the background or the passe-partout, as the magnets will have enough power to hold it all.
If you go to their website, you'll find more info about the theory of mounting. I'm not an expert, and the generator you use when ordering gave me the correct proportions directly, but can be overridden. The dimensions vary according to frame-size and print-size, but it's quite common to have a more eye-friendly, wider bottom than top on rectangular mounts.
If you go for a pre manufactured frame incl. a passepartout then you dont need backing. All thats needed is normally there. And theres no need (dont!) to attache the picture to the passepartout you just lay everything in reverse order starting with the glass or plastic and tight it in the back. You will understand when you have the frame in front of you.
Just to restore your peace of mind, the landscape images that are hanging in my office have wider margins on the sides than top bottom (those are identical, no top shift). It is barely noticeable. And I am just wondering whether there is a good optical reason to have them wider.
I do a lot of mounting and framing, and the most important thing is be sure to use acid-free matboard (passepartoute) AND backing. I use rather heavy backing board, and mount the photo - with acid-free tape - only at the top of the photo. This is important, no tape at the sides or the bottom. The photo needs some flexibility to stay flat.
I buy matboard and backing board in full size (90x120cm) and cut them myself with a dedicated semi-automatic matboard cutter. If I decide to glue the matboard to the backing board I use a Scotch ATG 700 tape dispenser with ATG Gold acid-free double-side tape.
Matboard and backing is used when the photo is to be mounted behing glass in a frame. But I prefer to laminate the photo with a laminating machine, it transfers a layer of UV-resistant laminate film on to the photo. Then I mount this with glue on to a 5mm foamboard (KAPAFIX), and finally mounts this in a frame, aluminium or wood. The advantage of this method is that the laminate protects the photo, it can be wiped with a moist cloth. Since there is no glass it weighs less and is more durable, and no hassle with cleaning the glass, which is a terrible job!
having different widths at left/right and top and maybe bottom and top, is not state of the art, but a necessary compromise to adjust mass product frames to mass printing formats, if they do not have the same form factor
be aware the mounting it on board, either acifd free glue, spray glue with exhaling solvents or coated adhesive board, as well as laminating it on the top surface stops all warranty of the printer, paper and ink suppliers for your picture
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