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Japanese Mixte Complete!
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kww
Jul 26, 2011, 4:03:02 AM7/26/11
to "Renaissanced" Bicycle Group
Well the old Nishiki mixte is finished!
Well equipped with
Sturmey Archer RX-RD3 rotary 3 speed hub and Front Dynohub X-FDD
Velocity Blunt rims with Grand Bois tires with Honjo fenders
B+M lights
All the photos here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/keithwwalker/NishikiReborn?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Overall views:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZFokmX8UMc-jhmj8f1MmwA?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jcgcnf0KjwoaAAr0csS9zQ?feat=directlink
As you can see, I threw a lot of new parts at the old frame and in
most cases, they stuck fairly well.
I am most proud of the B+M light mount. It is a simple long bolt that
retains both the fender stay and the light at the same time. An
length of aluminum tubing serves at the compression element, with
rubber backed conical fender washers putting compression on the light
mount. The result? The light is rigidly aligned, but the rubber
washers allow you to adjust the beam pattern with no tools!
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/D8rru-00oOhEpSw41lU_Lw?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/34LcecUlCmlHoYtI0XEfFA?feat=directlink
Loads of nyloc nuts and button head allen bolts were used.
Mild aluminum 'buckle ties' were used to retain the cables on the down
tube and chain stays:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tuthEFlP4hTG9HoyVpfxNA?feat=directlink
These are similar to what were used in old Japanese motorcycles but
are now incredibly hard to resource.
Let me know what you think! It was a fun project, just wish those
fenders weren't so hard to mount!
Keith Walker
Well equipped with
Sturmey Archer RX-RD3 rotary 3 speed hub and Front Dynohub X-FDD
Velocity Blunt rims with Grand Bois tires with Honjo fenders
B+M lights
All the photos here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/keithwwalker/NishikiReborn?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Overall views:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZFokmX8UMc-jhmj8f1MmwA?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jcgcnf0KjwoaAAr0csS9zQ?feat=directlink
As you can see, I threw a lot of new parts at the old frame and in
most cases, they stuck fairly well.
I am most proud of the B+M light mount. It is a simple long bolt that
retains both the fender stay and the light at the same time. An
length of aluminum tubing serves at the compression element, with
rubber backed conical fender washers putting compression on the light
mount. The result? The light is rigidly aligned, but the rubber
washers allow you to adjust the beam pattern with no tools!
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/D8rru-00oOhEpSw41lU_Lw?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/34LcecUlCmlHoYtI0XEfFA?feat=directlink
Loads of nyloc nuts and button head allen bolts were used.
Mild aluminum 'buckle ties' were used to retain the cables on the down
tube and chain stays:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tuthEFlP4hTG9HoyVpfxNA?feat=directlink
These are similar to what were used in old Japanese motorcycles but
are now incredibly hard to resource.
Let me know what you think! It was a fun project, just wish those
fenders weren't so hard to mount!
Keith Walker
BikeTinker
Jul 26, 2011, 4:58:51 AM7/26/11
to "Renaissanced" Bicycle Group
Beautiful job! It looks fantastic, and the light mount is very very
slick. "Rubber-backed fender washers." I am making a note of that even
now.
I hope you get a lot of joy out of that bike,
Philip
Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com
On Jul 26, 1:03 am, kww <keithwwal...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well the old Nishiki mixte is finished!
>
> Well equipped with
> Sturmey Archer RX-RD3 rotary 3 speed hub and Front Dynohub X-FDD
> Velocity Blunt rims with Grand Bois tires with Honjo fenders
> B+M lights
>
> All the photos here:https://picasaweb.google.com/keithwwalker/NishikiReborn?authuser=0&fe...
>
> Overall views:https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZFokmX8UMc-jhmj8f1MmwA?feat=dir...https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jcgcnf0KjwoaAAr0csS9zQ?feat=dir...
slick. "Rubber-backed fender washers." I am making a note of that even
now.
I hope you get a lot of joy out of that bike,
Philip
Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com
On Jul 26, 1:03 am, kww <keithwwal...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well the old Nishiki mixte is finished!
>
> Well equipped with
> Sturmey Archer RX-RD3 rotary 3 speed hub and Front Dynohub X-FDD
> Velocity Blunt rims with Grand Bois tires with Honjo fenders
> B+M lights
>
>
> Overall views:https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZFokmX8UMc-jhmj8f1MmwA?feat=dir...https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jcgcnf0KjwoaAAr0csS9zQ?feat=dir...
>
> As you can see, I threw a lot of new parts at the old frame and in
> most cases, they stuck fairly well.
>
> I am most proud of the B+M light mount. It is a simple long bolt that
> retains both the fender stay and the light at the same time. An
> length of aluminum tubing serves at the compression element, with
> rubber backed conical fender washers putting compression on the light
> mount. The result? The light is rigidly aligned, but the rubber
> washers allow you to adjust the beam pattern with no tools!
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/D8rru-00oOhEpSw41lU_Lw?feat=dir...https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/34LcecUlCmlHoYtI0XEfFA?feat=dir...
> As you can see, I threw a lot of new parts at the old frame and in
> most cases, they stuck fairly well.
>
> I am most proud of the B+M light mount. It is a simple long bolt that
> retains both the fender stay and the light at the same time. An
> length of aluminum tubing serves at the compression element, with
> rubber backed conical fender washers putting compression on the light
> mount. The result? The light is rigidly aligned, but the rubber
> washers allow you to adjust the beam pattern with no tools!
>
>
> Loads of nyloc nuts and button head allen bolts were used.
> Mild aluminum 'buckle ties' were used to retain the cables on the down
> tube and chain stays:https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tuthEFlP4hTG9HoyVpfxNA?feat=dir...
> Loads of nyloc nuts and button head allen bolts were used.
> Mild aluminum 'buckle ties' were used to retain the cables on the down
Montclair BobbyB
Jul 26, 2011, 9:07:28 AM7/26/11
to "Renaissanced" Bicycle Group
BRAVO, Keith... That is one SENSATIONAL job... WOW!!!! You've
inspired me to do something similar with my daughter's '86 Nishiki
Century mixte. I have been contemplating 650B wheels with long reach
brakes, and I'd like to keep the derailleurs. That said, the drum hub
option takes all the brake/rim futzing out of the equation. I'm a big
fan of the SA drum hubs (I've built half a dozen sets of wheels with
these, including the Dutch Gazelle I just updated on this forum). I
may consider a 5 or 8 speed (which may require cold-setting the frame,
since I believe the spacing is 126 or 130).
But yours is simply stunning... If that's not a renaissance, I don't
know what is... BRAVO!!!
I would also be interested to hear how the light (on the axle) holds
up (over time) to splashing from the wheels and puddles... Also, does
the wheel interfere with the light beam (ie cast a big shadow)?
I have moved my lights up high, to cast a broader, unimpeded beam...
interested to hear your experience.
Peace,
BB
On Jul 26, 4:03 am, kww <keithwwal...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well the old Nishiki mixte is finished!
>
> Well equipped with
> Sturmey Archer RX-RD3 rotary 3 speed hub and Front Dynohub X-FDD
> Velocity Blunt rims with Grand Bois tires with Honjo fenders
> B+M lights
>
inspired me to do something similar with my daughter's '86 Nishiki
Century mixte. I have been contemplating 650B wheels with long reach
brakes, and I'd like to keep the derailleurs. That said, the drum hub
option takes all the brake/rim futzing out of the equation. I'm a big
fan of the SA drum hubs (I've built half a dozen sets of wheels with
these, including the Dutch Gazelle I just updated on this forum). I
may consider a 5 or 8 speed (which may require cold-setting the frame,
since I believe the spacing is 126 or 130).
But yours is simply stunning... If that's not a renaissance, I don't
know what is... BRAVO!!!
I would also be interested to hear how the light (on the axle) holds
up (over time) to splashing from the wheels and puddles... Also, does
the wheel interfere with the light beam (ie cast a big shadow)?
I have moved my lights up high, to cast a broader, unimpeded beam...
interested to hear your experience.
Peace,
BB
On Jul 26, 4:03 am, kww <keithwwal...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well the old Nishiki mixte is finished!
>
> Well equipped with
> Sturmey Archer RX-RD3 rotary 3 speed hub and Front Dynohub X-FDD
> Velocity Blunt rims with Grand Bois tires with Honjo fenders
> B+M lights
>
> All the photos here:https://picasaweb.google.com/keithwwalker/NishikiReborn?authuser=0&fe...
>
> Overall views:https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZFokmX8UMc-jhmj8f1MmwA?feat=dir...https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jcgcnf0KjwoaAAr0csS9zQ?feat=dir...
>
>
> Overall views:https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZFokmX8UMc-jhmj8f1MmwA?feat=dir...https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jcgcnf0KjwoaAAr0csS9zQ?feat=dir...
>
> As you can see, I threw a lot of new parts at the old frame and in
> most cases, they stuck fairly well.
>
> I am most proud of the B+M light mount. It is a simple long bolt that
> retains both the fender stay and the light at the same time. An
> length of aluminum tubing serves at the compression element, with
> rubber backed conical fender washers putting compression on the light
> mount. The result? The light is rigidly aligned, but the rubber
> washers allow you to adjust the beam pattern with no tools!
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/D8rru-00oOhEpSw41lU_Lw?feat=dir...https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/34LcecUlCmlHoYtI0XEfFA?feat=dir...
> most cases, they stuck fairly well.
>
> I am most proud of the B+M light mount. It is a simple long bolt that
> retains both the fender stay and the light at the same time. An
> length of aluminum tubing serves at the compression element, with
> rubber backed conical fender washers putting compression on the light
> mount. The result? The light is rigidly aligned, but the rubber
> washers allow you to adjust the beam pattern with no tools!
>
>
> Loads of nyloc nuts and button head allen bolts were used.
> Mild aluminum 'buckle ties' were used to retain the cables on the down
> tube and chain stays:https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tuthEFlP4hTG9HoyVpfxNA?feat=dir...
> Loads of nyloc nuts and button head allen bolts were used.
> Mild aluminum 'buckle ties' were used to retain the cables on the down
kww
Jul 26, 2011, 3:24:04 PM7/26/11
to "Renaissanced" Bicycle Group
Phillip, the bike is a gift, I don't think I could fit on it, lol!
BB:
The B+M light is a Lumotec Lyt N Plus LED model. I was initially
worried that there would be some cutoff of the beam, but that is not
the case. The beam is rather well focused by the lens. This was
lucky as the selection of the standoff from the fork blade was rather
arbitrary - I had some 6mmX35mm bolts on hand.
We'll see how the light holds up. Peter White makes a point to state
that the B+M lights are drip proof, but not water proof. Notice that
the front fender is really shifted back to minimize the splashing, I
expect the light to hold up well.
For the rear hub, there is a bit of futzing to do since S-A only makes
locating washers for horizontal dropouts (like a fixie frame). The
work around is to use Shimano locating washers, specifically the blue/
green combo and a slight bend of the drum brake bracket for clearance.
The Grand Bois tires are amazingly supple, but almost too much for to
stuff in between the forks.
On Jul 26, 6:07 am, Montclair BobbyB <montclairbob...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> > Overall views:https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZFokmX8UMc-jhmj8f1MmwA?feat=dir......
BB:
The B+M light is a Lumotec Lyt N Plus LED model. I was initially
worried that there would be some cutoff of the beam, but that is not
the case. The beam is rather well focused by the lens. This was
lucky as the selection of the standoff from the fork blade was rather
arbitrary - I had some 6mmX35mm bolts on hand.
We'll see how the light holds up. Peter White makes a point to state
that the B+M lights are drip proof, but not water proof. Notice that
the front fender is really shifted back to minimize the splashing, I
expect the light to hold up well.
For the rear hub, there is a bit of futzing to do since S-A only makes
locating washers for horizontal dropouts (like a fixie frame). The
work around is to use Shimano locating washers, specifically the blue/
green combo and a slight bend of the drum brake bracket for clearance.
The Grand Bois tires are amazingly supple, but almost too much for to
stuff in between the forks.
On Jul 26, 6:07 am, Montclair BobbyB <montclairbob...@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> > As you can see, I threw a lot of new parts at the old frame and in
> > most cases, they stuck fairly well.
>
> > I am most proud of the B+M light mount. It is a simple long bolt that
> > retains both the fender stay and the light at the same time. An
> > length of aluminum tubing serves at the compression element, with
> > rubber backed conical fender washers putting compression on the light
> > mount. The result? The light is rigidly aligned, but the rubber
> > washers allow you to adjust the beam pattern with no tools!
>
> >https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/D8rru-00oOhEpSw41lU_Lw?feat=dir......
> > As you can see, I threw a lot of new parts at the old frame and in
> > most cases, they stuck fairly well.
>
> > I am most proud of the B+M light mount. It is a simple long bolt that
> > retains both the fender stay and the light at the same time. An
> > length of aluminum tubing serves at the compression element, with
> > rubber backed conical fender washers putting compression on the light
> > mount. The result? The light is rigidly aligned, but the rubber
> > washers allow you to adjust the beam pattern with no tools!
>
Montclair BobbyB
Jul 26, 2011, 8:11:59 PM7/26/11
to "Renaissanced" Bicycle Group
The Hetres are a tight fit?
kww
Aug 2, 2011, 11:07:34 PM8/2/11
to "Renaissanced" Bicycle Group
Plenty of tire clearance out back though I did have to bend the fender
at the chainstays.
It was really tight with the fender and tire clearance on the fork
crown. Eventually, I took a rubber mallet to the fender under the
fork crown to square it off. There were other issues with the fork as
well. Originally wished to do a Chris King 2nut headset, but not
enough thread for the second nut. Had to get a gripnut conversion for
that, what a pain that was.
In retrospect, it would of been best to get a new fork, Compass
Bicycles sells a Grand Bois fork crown custom made for 650b (and
Hetres, I assume)
On Jul 26, 5:11 pm, Montclair BobbyB <montclairbob...@gmail.com>
wrote:
at the chainstays.
It was really tight with the fender and tire clearance on the fork
crown. Eventually, I took a rubber mallet to the fender under the
fork crown to square it off. There were other issues with the fork as
well. Originally wished to do a Chris King 2nut headset, but not
enough thread for the second nut. Had to get a gripnut conversion for
that, what a pain that was.
In retrospect, it would of been best to get a new fork, Compass
Bicycles sells a Grand Bois fork crown custom made for 650b (and
Hetres, I assume)
On Jul 26, 5:11 pm, Montclair BobbyB <montclairbob...@gmail.com>
wrote:
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