Most Realistic Cars In Gta 5

[Muriel Trettin]

HelloI just received my simucube pro 2. Are there recommended settings to get a more realistic car feel? I track high performance cars (ie. GT3s, etc) at a private track every couple of weeks and I was just wondering what settings you would recommend.

For AC you can start here, post has some general recommendations and link to settings.

FFB feel is very subjective thing, but once you learn basics you can tune it to your personal liking.

Browse the linked thread, there are settings from other users too, as well as some sometimes informative discussions.

Good luck, and try ACC, it rocks on SC2.

I dont think I have ever tried anything more than 360 on an f1 game. I am afraid more than twice that would feel like Truck Simulator. Are the simucube official true drive videos the best or are there any other videos that do a better job explaining True Drive settings?

One thing to note is that while realistic, they will always feel different from a similar car in real life as the digital tire is never the same as real and as you know if you do alot of Track days, just changing a tire type can cause a significant change in the way a car handles and feels.

I personally would like to keep driving the more flashy cars like the Lamborghini and Ferraris but I would be interested in trying out the GT3 I am there. Given my experience so far I would say 15nm sort of feels the similar to what I experience on that race track, but I will def take in the suggestions above and just experiment. I will likely never be able to drive a real F1 car and wont have a reference to that driving experience. So as long as it feels good and i have fun, I will keep experimenting with the settings

After driving it I did some comparisons to iRacing and felt that (with the settings above for my wheel) the Street Spec Porsche GT3RS is about .45:1 Specific output with the Prior Gen Cup Car, However, that being said if you put the GT3RS on slick tires that number would go up and would probably fall in the .5 - .6 range as Slick tend to load everything more given their maximum grip level increases significantly.

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As James mentioned, you can use the plastics as he described. However those can only be useful for relatively flat windshields. For radically compound curved windshields that are seen on cars of the late '50's/early '60's, you would almost need to vacuform them.

1974 Corvette restoration which had a badly distorted windscreen...........Mold made first to be vacuformed. Using the clear stencil sheet route wound up to be too frustrating so I went the extra mile and vac-formed it.

Better pic of it with the car completed. BTW, the same was done to the rear window. Same reason as that also is quite curved and doesn't play nice with just bending clear stencil sheet.

And here is the Turbine car with clear stencil sheet used for its glass. The glass while not bad in the kit, was a little too hazy looking and I wanted something that was more optically clear to suit the other body corrections I had done.

Hope this gives you some ideas. Good glass in a build for me is an absolute must as I see that as pretty much bodywork. It's one of the first things people will notice and bad/distorted glass IMO is a HUGE turn off and has been for years.

Thin acetate or butyrate seems to be the way to go, as clear styrene likes to craze when you bend it. Most curved auto glass is just a simple curve. so as long as you have something that can bend, you should be good. Use a piece of heavy paper to make a template.

This is true for side glass and for scale model purposes simple curves probably work quite OK, but he fact is many, if not most, windshields are compound curves. The top to bottom curve isn't very pronounced, but it is there and might even be noticed on a model. In the real world the curve enhances strength and reduces reflected glare.

First, if you are building resin bodies, a lot of them need clean up where the windshield will mount. Some bodies are too thick and will require thinning so the glass doesn't appear to be in a deep hole. Others need the mounting surfaces sanded to flatten them out. Check yours before you paint the body!

You can use it all the way around and it sticks very well. I don't see any failure on cars I did with this a few years ago. And / Or... use it to hold the windshield in place and use the canopy cement or appoxy as you would normally around the edges.

I agree with Tom's observation about the thickness of the resin body model cars, and one trick I learned when I started building the 1:24 Minicraft Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud cars, which was instead of mounting the kit supplied plastic glass INSIDE the body shell..... simply mount the thinner acetate sheet OUTSIDE the windscreen surround frame. This actually looks very realistic, rather than having the ' glass ' sunk into a deep hole as Tom described.

As others said, thin acetate or similar will work. I've used 0.010" clear styrene, .007" clear PVC, & .005" acetate on various models. My favorite is the PVC because it can take pretty heavy duty curves without crazing or clouding up like styrene does.

I dig a channel around the opening on the inside of the body for the "glass" to sit in. If that's not possible, I'll glue in a strip of 0.020" x 0.020" styrene strip around the inside opening to create the channel. Sorry, I can't find any of my photos showing that. If you can get the fit of the glass tight in the channel, it should stay in place with little or no glue. But, you may have to sit there & make 5 or more windshields before you finally get one to fit perfectly. Material is cheap, it's just the time factor.

The '57 Chevy truck had totally messed up windshield & rear window trim that I rebuilt with styrene rod. I used PVC on this one. The fit in some places could have been better, but I left well enough alone. There's a slight distortion when looking through it, but I was also getting that with styrene.

While modelers for many decades used to generically call any thin clear plastic sheets "acetate" (like many people call all brands of facial tissues "Kleenex"). I don't think that actual "acetate" is around anymore. Sure, back 40 or 50 years ago, the clear plastic was actual "acetate", but that was replaced by other plastics, like what has been mentioned here already" Polystyrene, PETG, Plexiglas, Lexan (polycarbonate), PVC, and probably few others.

A lot of great answers here on how to form compound pieces, but I have a resin Suburban that need to make side and rear windows for. They will be flat, rectangular pieces that I will glue in either from the inside or outside, depending on how well I can trim them to fit. My question is- will regular .010 evergreen flat clear sheet work okay? I will walk the aisles at Hobby Lobby and see if they have something else that can be used as well.

If you want to make incredibly realistic flat windows that are bullet-holed, broken or shattered, take a look at Uschi van der Rosten's glass kit. It uses real (and real thin) glass. Check out the Ford Woody on his page.

-in-detail/the-bullet-hole-kit/

Most model tires are vinyl and have a shine to them that you wouldn't see in the real world outside of car shows where they're soaked in Armor-All. Start by scrubbing the sidewalls with an old toothbrush and Comet. Also, look closely and the treat of a 1:1 tire and see what parts are duller than others. Sanding the tread and flowing flat washes through the grooves can also help.

I sand the tread with 400 grit sand paper to make it dull. Ibsand the sidewall with an 800 or 1000. Depending on how deep the tread is i typically fold the sandpaper in half and give a quick run through

I think that sanding the tread is a very good place to start. I have learned to "flat spot" the tires from Steven Guthmiller in my most resent builds. The biggest difference for me has been to spray a light coat of flat clear on the sidewalls. This has a couple of advantages as well as a couple of drawbacks. First it will give the sidewalls a more realistic sheen and if you have used any lettering decals or if they are pad printed this will usually protect their appearance. The drawbacks have to do with mounting the tire to the wheels. Should you have to bend the tire much during the mounting prosses you can and will crack the smooth finish on the tire if you're not careful.

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