3d Coat Tutorial

[Lucrecio Poinson]

Aftersmoothing down your entire wall, make sure and use a good primer before painting or installing wallpaper. As a general rule, joint compound should always be coated with primer before painting. Happy skimming!

You will also want to create an interfacing band for the sleeve hem (this was included in my pattern), along the vent (also included in the pattern) and the rest of the hem- this was quite deep on mine- approximately twice the depth of the outer shell hem.

Use the tailors ham and sleeve roll to press and shape your coat as you go along. From pressing seam lines (e.g. the princess seams on the Rumana coat) to shaping the sleeve head*- these will help give you that structure. *This bit really is magic, see the sleeve head shrink into a beautiful shape. Steam, steam, steam it!

Ahh twill tape, you magical thing. I used cotton twill tape (which is the recommended sort) in my shoulder seams and break-line (or roll-line). But there are other places you might want to use it. Its used to stiffen and strengthen spots which might otherwise get stretched out (e.g. shoulder seams).

Fancy making my FREE sewing pattern, the Sabina Skirt? Just hit subscribe below and you'll get automatically sent my beginners sewing pattern (UK sizes 6-34!) in print at home/A0 copy shop file and instructions all for free.

like for starters, i want my Shader to be Flat Grey without a big Light pointing at it "Shining off it" is there a way to do that? ive tried turning the light, but then its too dark to see the sculpt im working on at all..

- Search 3dCoat on Udemy, make sure to view the newest. I cant say they are what you are looking for cause I havent seen them But they are there. Also Anton Tenitsky has a mentorship program as well as tutorials.

Hey,

Regarding your flat shader request...

Quickest solution: In the shaders menu , click submenu "Polymers" and look for a dull grey shader called "DerlinIndustrial". It's the 9th shader from the beginning in "Polymer" shaders. Then adjust the lighting effects in the viewport using the three controls at the left of the header icons.

Also, I would highly recommend the 3D Coat tutorial linked in this thread. The one with the Crocodile character. Excellent overview of the full character creation pipeline in 3DC. I'm going through it now and am picking up good stuff from it. I'm actually thinking of getting the other tutorial by the same instructor.

Good luck!

The Patchwork Chore Coat was specifically designed for quilted fabric. It is the perfect pattern for turning your favorite vintage quilt (or new quilt!) into a coat! The Patchwork Chore Coat has a relaxed, but not oversized fit. If you prefer an oversized coat, go up one size. Special considerations have been taken to finishing the seams, especially the bulky underarm seams. Pattern details out different seam finishing methods, including a binding option that allows the coat to be reversible. YES! Reversible!

The Quilt Coat Course comes with 6 weeks of pre-recorded videos, additional handouts, a private Facebook group to share progress, and weekly live q&a sessions with me. The cost of the pattern is included in the cost of the course.

Hello,

I am making the chore coat with collar and i am to the point of binding the front, i made my own binding but i dont seems to be able to start the binding on the front to make it look nice and finished as in a normal binding process on the corners. Maybe im being to picky but im at a stand still. Can you help me get this started?

Candace Kerber

#1. Cut out pieces 1,2, 3, 4, 9, and 10 from your copy of Simplicity 8482. First, combine pieces 1 and 2, as well as 3 and 4, to remove the seams and create your front and back pieces. Next, combine pieces 9 and 10 by taping them together to remove the skirt side seams. You will pin the skirt section to the front and back pieces to remove the waist seams. An example of the full back piece is below (apologies for terrible lighting):

At this corner point, pivot, then clip the upper layer just to where the needle is in the fabric. Next, pivot the fabric again so that the lower edges line up, and continue stitching until you reach the end of the seam.

#7. Next up: installing the godets! Baste the outer godets to the lining pieces. Sew the front and back jacket pieces to the godets, as well as attaching the front and backs at the side seam.

#11. Cut out the liner pieces from polyester apparel lining fabric. Sew the coat liner. (These seams do not need to be complex; simple seams are fine.) Install the lining in the coat by basting the sleeve edges and the edges of the lower hem to the outer PVC layer.

Step 4: Take the sweater you found in step 3, your bodice sweater, and draw a straight line up the center with chalk. I recommend measuring to be sure it is straight. Cut it along the line, being careful to cut only the front layer.

Step 16: The next step is to put two bands down the front of the sweater coat. I cut mine from a heavy wool sweater and I had to piece two rectangles to get a strip along enough. Make two of these strips, then serge down the length of each side.

Next steps are to add sleeves, a pocket, and a hood. My sleeves have thumbholes and my pocket is sized perfectly for my iPhone (and fits within one of my skirt panes). My hood is long, stripey, and amazing. Do you want to see how I made those?

Jennifer Marx is a designer, an enthusiastic crafter, a lifelong teacher, and a proud overcomer of a variety of life's challenges. In her spare time she loves to play D&D and video games, garden, sew costumes, and go to Disney. She lives a full, happy life in beautiful Ann Arbor, Michigan with her partner Greg, her daughter Alexa, their two dogs, Hunter and Chloe, and their sassy orange cat, Butterscotch.

I bought the katwise pattern but I think your instructions are more understandable for me who likes the smallest detail. Your coat is lovely you did a beautiful job. I am finding it hard to source wool sweaters though. Looking forward to your instructions for the sleeves and hood, because I am not starting until 1. I have enough sweaters and 2. I have your instructions. Thankyou so much for publishing your beautiful creation.

P.S. I am originally from Michigan, grew up there. Have you ever heard of Fowlerville? I got my degree at Lake Superior State University. I moved to NC after college in 1980. I love my home State but NC is also beautiful and much warmer!

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3. Lay the lining fabric wrong side up on a flat surface. Lay the batting fabric on top. Lay the outside fabric right side up on top of the batting. You now have a quilt sandwich. Baste and quilt as desired.

5. You could cut the pattern out with scissors but using your rotary cutter is faster and more accurate. Align the rotary cutter and ruler along the bottom and sides of the pattern and cut. Use the rotary cutter and ruler to cut the beginning of the curves as shown below:

After you have two or three lengths of webbing in place, press the binding briefly to baste the webbing to the fabrics. Leave about an inch of webbing unpressed so that you can lift up the binding and see where the next strip needs to go. When you have worked all the way around, sandwich the rotary cutter coat between a press cloth and steam fully, following the directions on the package of Steam-a-Seam 2. In a very few minutes, your rotary cutter coat will look like this from the front and back:

I love these coats. I found your blog by looking reach for the stars quilt as I purchased one book. I wondered if the gal that designed it had the pattern online. I came across your blog. Your quilt was inspiring to me. If I won one any colour would suit me fine.

Your work is really creative and amazing, Dawn. I enjoy looking through your website even though I have yet to learn how to quilt! I like your latest pillow designs and the choice of fabrics. It is a real treat to see how lovely fabric art can be. When I see you again, I hope to share some items I picked up in Japan where such art form is highly valued.

Since I use a smaller one than the 45 how much should I decrease pattern? Also is there one for rotary cutter with the comfort grip handle. Thank you for your post as going to make some as Valentine gifts for some of my quilting buddies.

I made my quilter friends one last spring but had to revisit this site as I need to make some more. I enjoyed making them. I like your quilting as well so used some of them when I made mine. All my quilter friends use them all the time. It is so nice to have the cutters protected. Thank you for sharing.

Earlier this week I shared my Pendleton wool Oslo Coat, by far the warmest coat I own (seriously giving my North Face parka a run for it's money!) While the wool I used was quite thick, and I chose a flannel backed satin for added warmth, the true hero of this project was a Thinsulate interlining and in today's post I'm going to explain how to sew with product, perfect for our Clare Coat or any other coat pattern you may be using.

Editor's note: Since writing this post, we've opened Core Fabrics and now stock a much more eco-friendly interlining made from recycled wool and recycled polyester, so I highly suggest using that instead of Thinsulate, which is made from virgin polyester.

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