Toyota 1nz Fe Engine Tuning

[Amilcar Labrosse]

Ispent the last few days looking for mods and upgrade parts for my 2E engine (1300 carburator), but the only thing i could find was a K&N filter (# e-9106). Does anybody have experience with tuning this car/motor? Business ain't looking so good this year so it looks like my baby and I will be friends for a while more, and i'd like to get best out of her possible (yes i know i can crank up the fuel intake a few notches and gain more power but i'm looking for more subtle solutions... and ones that won't double the fuel consumption). since it's not EFI, i can't chiptune. can't find a cold-air intake either.... help? :(

Hi mate, havent even bothered to look for engine mods for my car, didnt even know that the air filter existed, does it make a lot of difference? sound etc.? also i can only find it on a french site, any english ones?

i haven't bought it yet. i can't shop online, and the idiot working at a tuner shop said it was a special order, and that he's not sure if it's 38 or 76 euros?!?!?. what an a$shole. since then i'm looking for another shop to get it but i guess i'm gonna have to go back to the ***** and cough up the dough. either way, it pays off, since an average quality filter is aprox 7 euros, and an original is 12, and i swap them twice a year to be on the safe side, it's easier to buy ONE with ONE million mile warranty :)

off topic: is there a way to transform a 2E motor to a 2E-E? actually, is there a way to transform my engine into a fuel-injection type? i think that would yield the most power boost AND lessen the consumption, but... let's hear what you guys say.

Yes u can, but will not be worth the money and effort. Best wise thing to do if you want to keep the 2E would be going forced induction, just depends how much more power you want. You can't get too much from a 1.3, I'll say almost nothing. I've got the 2E and I'm not so happy with it, I just want to collect my $ and swap it.

i have a corolla EE90 too....my problem is after i tighten the valve the engine vibrate seriously...and the engine lost power......can shoot until 150km/h...now hardly reach 100km/h...then valve v noisy....

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and it also happens to me when I change the injectors, the high end rpm which is after 2500rpm the torque drops dramatically, and the high end is like drops to zero torque or horsepower, I wonder how I can bring back the high end rpm power from the engine?

injection volume is around 75mm3, boost is at 0.5bar, at 2500rpm, no matter how hard i throttle, it just remain the same, but when I shift to 4th gear, the car can hit around 98% engine load. and can accelerate a bit on the hill.

when I change the injectors of toyota hiace (1KD-FTV) engine, without remap, the engine will starts to drop at 2500rpm, and when I hit 3000rpm it is near accelerate, and the engine loads also like capped at 50%ish , I wonder what restrict the car from doing 90%+ engine load, since all data seems to be fine form me, rail pressure is at target, boost is at target, I wonder if it is the air flow that makes the car not able to keep the horsepower to high end rpm.

It sounds like your Coaster is still in Limp Mode. As the EGR is blocked off then it will have no effect on the intake. So if it is still installed the ECU can make changes but they would have no action but the ECU would still be happy. If the whole EGR system has been removed and the ECU not receiving the correct feedback then it will go into limp mode as it will not allow full throttle it the EGR is open.

It is best that when doing the EGR, only blank of the ports but leave all the hardware in-place. Ensure there are no exhaust leaks/vacuum and boost pressure sensors are hooked up to sources. Clean the MAF sensor as this is used to determine how the EGR operates. The MAF sensor is used to determine how much the valve would open If a difference is detected then again the engine e will go to limp mode until the fault self clears/ or you do a reset.

I see that the boost is a bit low. As this engine is fitted with a VNT it should be a bit higher. This is possibly stuck, if you can simulate the VNT Stepper and ensure that it is responding. it seems that you are not getting the correct exhaust flow to drive the turbo until the fueling is increased, as if you had a much larger turbo installed. The VNT should give consistent boost at all ranges.

The ECU will be seeing a larger volume of fuel being consumed at the injectors but not the air flow to match, this will result in loss of power. This can only be corrected by remapping the ecu to compensate for the larger injector that can then be used to match the correct injection volume and also control the VNT position on the turbo to ensure the volumes match for fuel/air.

To be honest, the sequential turbo setup is complex and little more than a gimmick once the car is tuned, so one of the first steps beyond 400bhp is a single turbo conversion along with uprated fuelling and engine management to suit.

Just like the 2JZ, for big power the stock turbo setup is ditched for a larger single turbo, and along with the usual bolt on upgrades like a larger intercooler, fuel system, aftermarket ECU and so on, a very strong and reliable 550bhp can be had.

Despite the relatively high compression ratio, upwards of 500bhp has been achieved with good reliability on a turbocharged standard engine, and people have even pushed out over 1000bhp on race fuel from the engine on stock internals (albeit with reduced reliability).

Common upgrades like exhaust systems, cams, and throttle body conversions make things a lot more fun, and while up to 240bhp has been achieved from this lump in N/A form, even getting a genuine 170bhp is very expensive.

Upwards of 200bhp, whether you have a 16 or 20v engine, tuning gets expensive in N/A and even the supercharged form, and at the risk of us sounding like a broken record, the solution for big power is turbocharging.

The little 4E-FTE found in the turbocharged Starlet and Glanza models is one of the most impressive small capacity engines in existence. Over 200bhp is no problem on standard internals, 300bhp is considered quite straight forward, and upwards of 450bhp has been achieved from big budget setups.

With increased breathing and cooling thanks to a full exhaust, induction kit, and front mount intercooler, and then more fuel and air thanks to tweaks to the ECU and boost limit, and you have an easy 190bhp.

When going for big power the upgrades are typical turbo tuning components such as forged internals, longer duration cams, headwork, and the associated large turbo and fuel system, but the standard crank can stay unless you want to go for bigger capacity to help torque and turbo spool-up.

When it comes to a lower level of tuning, later models came with MAP sensor management, a stronger head gasket, and a few other changes too, and this makes tuning far easier, with 300bhp possible with the standard turbo and injectors.

My gli started running heavy at 18,000 km (all highway driven in south punjab (dusty) ). I had tuning and throttle body done from my mechanic. for tuning, he cleaned plugs, check everything wagaira, cleaned filter and than he hooked up his computer and played with the rpms. It does 13 kml in city with ac and light foot.

Well,i keep regular maintenance. I've owned 2 corollas, gli MT both:

1. Total Parco 9000 5w30 with drain interval of 6000-7000 km, depends ( local oil filters don't go above 7000 )

2. Fuel only from Total Parco pumps. I've experimented with different pumps in Johar town with different cars and found that Total Parco near LDA and Rahat Bakery are better than PSO and Shell.

2. I have air filter cleaned by air 2 times and replaced on third time when i go to do any type of servicing ( oil change, tuning etc)

3. My mechanic ( Adil workshop, next to Suzuki Township) is very experienced and used to work in Suzuki after service. He advised tuning on 17,000 km in one corolla. The car had lost acceleration and fuel avg dropped to 11.5 with AC. In tuning, he cleaned plugs wagaira and did throttle servicing and filter cleaning and hooked up OBD bluetooth to the car. He adjusted wires and screws on the engine head (camshaft, or as we call it, tappets) The rpms and air fuel mixture came up on his laptop. He set all the rpms, and accelerator became better than before and fuel average went back upto 13 kml. The same can be said for my Mehran. The total cost was rs 1500.

4. I check all fluid levels in my cars every week, and do some stuff on my own. In order to attain good gas mileage, it is very necessary to have an understanding of how your engine works and preforms best at, that way, the engine lasts longer, produces a bit more power, and gives better economy.

5. I tend to apply some methods used by professionanal racers into daily driving, such as proper downshifiting, heel-toe, and knowing when to brake and accelerate. This way, my driving is a bit more efficient.

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