0000 steel wool and what kind of oil?

[TopekaRyan]

I am getting ready to buff out some polyurethane. I am going to try steel wool
and oil for the first time. What type of oil should be used? What's the
technique? Little circles? Long strokes? Do you just wipe off the oil and
let the piece dry or what?

Thanks!
TR

[Rob Stokes]

Try paste was instead. To rub it out, all you really need is a lubricant so
any oil will work (if you're stuck on oil). The reason I use wax is after
I'm done, I wait.......and buff and the piece is clean with no residue.

As for buffing, well, it depends. Steel wool, even 0000 wool is going to
leave scratches so....I'd go long strokes with the grain. If you like the
look and want to take it further, you can use 1000, 1200, 1500 and even 2000
grit automotive sand paper (with wax as a lubricant), and again, stay with
he grain. If you STILL want to keep going, you can use automotive polish, or
Silvo/Brasso metal polish and a random-orbital buffer (or by hand). At this
grit level, direction shouldn't matter much.

As with all finishes and finishing techniques, try a piece of scrap first
and don't be afraid to "play" with it.

Good luck and enjoy.
Rob

"TopekaRyan" <topek...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030327140108...@mb-fh.aol.com...

[mikeg]

If you are talking about rubbing out a poly finish you have chosen a long
row to hoe.

Rubbing out is, like sanding, the process of making ever finer scratch
marks on a surface until they disappear to the eye and reach a desired
gloss. I'll give you one guess as too which of the commonly available
finishes is the most resistant to scratches.

For poly, well actually any varnish, I'd start with 220 grit paper on a ROS,
then 0 steel wool and work my way to 0000. If I haven't reached the gloss I
want by then, which I usually haven't, I'd go to pumice and water then
rottenstone and water, followed, if necessary, with automotive rubbing
compound and then polishing compound.

Oil is a lubricant and lubricates better then water. Since I don't want to
use water and with steel wool and because varnish is resistant to scratches
and I want the best possible abrasive action I would not use any lubricant
with the steel wool.

Your aim with each grit is to rub with the grain until the scratch pattern
is absolutely even across the whole surface and, as in sanding wood, until,
and no more, the scratches from the previous grit is gone. Get the surface
as flat as possible with no shiny spots with the 220 grit paper. Be careful
though, especially at the edges. You don't want to go through the finish.

I hope you finessed all your undercoats before you put the next one on. The
deeper a gloss you go for the more any buried flaws are going to show.

It isn't easy but it can be done. You don't even have to follow all the
above. However, without starting with a sufficient level of abrasiveness and
following up with successive grits it'll be a bit like trying to smooth
rough lumber with 220 sand paper or taking out the roughness with 60 grit
then trying to remove the 60 grit marks with 220 grit paper. Again, it can
be done but it ain't easy.

Have fun, by the time you are done you'll know why varnish, poly in
particular, isn't the first choice for many finishers.
--
Mike Glennon
Heirloom Woods
Weymouth Ma.
www.heirloom-woods.net
mi...@heirloom-woods.net

"TopekaRyan" <topek...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030327140108...@mb-fh.aol.com...

[TopekaRyan]

Could I rub it out with paste wax and 0000 and then wipe it off, and then buff
it with just wax afterwards to fill in any scratches that might remain?

TR

[George]

I use buffing compounds and electric elbow grease. Watch the heat buildup,
though. Beall system has the three grits I use to follow 600 wet/dry and
mineral spirits.

"TopekaRyan" <topek...@aol.com> wrote in message

news:20030327153438...@mb-fc.aol.com...

[davefr]

Flexner recommends using steel wool dry so you can better guage your
progress. (especially if you're a newbie). Make long strokes with the
grain but don't touchdown or takeoff at the edges. Begin and end the
strokes about an inch or two from an edge. Once you complete the
field you can gently rub the edge strip using short gentle strokes.

You'll likely have less varnish at the very edge due to surface
tension of the varnish and due to the fact that the edge absorbs it
more than the surface. For these reasons you need to be very gently
in rubbing right up to the edge.

topek...@aol.com (TopekaRyan) wrote in message news:<20030327140108...@mb-fh.aol.com>...

[Martin Kragness]

The finish is what makes a piece beautiful. If you have a poor finish,
no amount of perfect woodworking will make your piece beautiful.

With that being said, I refuse to spend twice as much time finishing a
piece as I used constructing it. So my compromise is this:
- 3 coats of easily flowing poly (often must be thinned)
- sanding with 320 grit silicon carbide (dry) between coats and after
- final sanding with 400 grit (usually skipping the unexposed areas,
but someone always seems to run their hand over them so I will sand
these frequently as well)
- rubbing with 0000 steel wool (dry) until a smooth semigloss finish
- wax to a beautiful smooth sheen

There are several problems with varnish but it gives the best
protection from scratches and water. Use 220 grit on drips and large
irregularities but better yet, avoid these by using varnish that flows
well and rechecking for drips after applications. Use more coats for
more protection or if each coat is very thin.

Finally, ibuprofen for back and arms.

Cheers,
Martin

In article <20030327140108...@mb-fh.aol.com>, TopekaRyan

[TopekaRyan]

I have the piece sanded flat now w/ a 220 over a sanding block, and I've gone
over that with 400 grit wet.

What's the best type of wax to use to go over this now? I need a good
semi-gloss finish.

Thanks!
Ryan

[Rob Stokes]

A furniture wax will be fine (Minwax, Johnsons etc) or....an automotive wax
will work as well, though it may give you more shine than you're after.

Good luck
Rob

"TopekaRyan" <topek...@aol.com> wrote in message

news:20030328102909...@mb-fv.aol.com...

[TopekaRyan]

You know, I tried car wax a long time ago just for fun. Turtle wax I believe.
I got through 3 coats and just couldn't get ANY type of shine.

Is there a special procedure for polsihing out wax?

TR

[RA]

Get some beeswax

regards,
RA

"TopekaRyan" <topek...@aol.com> wrote in message

news:20030328153819...@mb-fq.aol.com...