How Close Do You Get To Your Miter Saw Blade?

[DerbyDad03]

Survey time...

How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
while making a cut?

[Leon]

Several inches away. Normally.

Last Saturday I was helping a friend/relative, what ever yu call my
daughter in law's cousin, put down base boards in 5 rooms, populated
with furniture. Still have 3 bedrooms and closets, and a bathroom to go.

Anyway we were trying to use the waste pieces to keep the waste down.
I was cutting 2" long pieces with bevel cuts on both ends off 6" pieces.
The base boards were about 8" tall so all cuts were bevel vs miter.

I think I was getting pretty close to the blade on some of those pieces.
;~0

It would have been far smarter to have worked with nothing shorter than 12".

[k...@notreal.com]

Shoulder's width. Both arms/hands straight forward.

[pyotr filipivich]

DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> on Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700
(PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:

>Survey time...
>
>How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>while making a cut?

As I do not have a power saw - a lot closer than I would otherwise
... B-)

--
pyotr filipivich
This Week's Panel: Us & Them - Eliminating Them.
Next Month's Panel: Having eliminated the old Them(tm)
Selecting who insufficiently Woke(tm) as to serve as the new Them(tm)

[Markem618]

End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.

[DerbyDad03]

So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?

[DerbyDad03]

How close to your miter saw blade do you allow the fingers of
the hand holding the board to get while making a cut.

[Jay Pique]

It's sort of like the people that drop to 15mph below the speed limit when they see a cop.
You don't get bonus points for being below the limit.
As long as my hand isn't in the path of the blade it's not getting cut.
The important thing (for me) is to be sure I'm not moving my holding hand as I'm lowering the blade, especially when I'm doing a bunch of repetitive cuts. The little shorties where I'm sure (some) people would freak out of they saw it always have my full attention anyways.
YMMV.

[Scott Lurndal]

My first miter saw (Delta) had a nice clamp attachment to hold
the board which could be switched to either side.

[Markem618]

On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 21:19:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 11:46:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
>> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>>
>> >Survey time...
>> >
>> >How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>> >while making a cut?
>> End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.
>
>So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?

Not on the miter saw.

[DerbyDad03]

As far as I know, all miter saws come with that accessory.

On my Delta 36-220, it mounts in the front, which is a terrible design.

The rear mounted one on my Bosch Glide saw only gets within 5 1/2"
of the blade. That's often too far away for some of my cuts. I use it
mainly for stop blocks.

The Delta clamp, which holds the board against the fence, not down on
the table, requires that the board be at least 6" long if I recall correctly.
Again, that's too long in many cases. OK for stop blocks.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 21:22:40 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 9:20:05 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>>
>> >Survey time...
>> >
>> >How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>> >while making a cut?
>> Shoulder's width. Both arms/hands straight forward.
>
>How close to your miter saw blade do you allow the fingers of
>the hand holding the board to get while making a cut.

A foot. I don't think I've cut anything less. Any smaller and I use
the table saw.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 18 Aug 2022 13:10:50 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

By Bosch has a clamp, too, but it's as close to useless as it could be
made.

[Scott Lurndal]

Yes, 6". Anything shorter and I use a backsaw or the bandsaw with a miter gauge.

[Leon]

Ohhhhh my Kapex has an EXCELLENT hold down and switches from side to
side with no knobs to twist.

[Leon]

On 8/18/2022 9:37 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 9:10:55 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
>>> On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 11:46:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>>>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Survey time...
>>>>>
>>>>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>>>>> while making a cut?
>>>> End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.
>>>
>>> So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?
>> My first miter saw (Delta) had a nice clamp attachment to hold
>> the board which could be switched to either side.
>
> As far as I know, all miter saws come with that accessory.

If you can call it that. Some are much more trouble than helpful.

The Kapex is so simple and elegant that it is like the difference in
changing blades in the old Bosch jigsaws to a current Bosch jig saw.

[DerbyDad03]

On Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 11:48:49 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 8/18/2022 9:37 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 9:10:55 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> >> DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
> >>> On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 11:46:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
> >>>> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> >>>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Survey time...
> >>>>>
> >>>>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
> >>>>> while making a cut?
> >>>> End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.
> >>>
> >>> So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?
> >> My first miter saw (Delta) had a nice clamp attachment to hold
> >> the board which could be switched to either side.
> >
> > As far as I know, all miter saws come with that accessory.
> If you can call it that. Some are much more trouble than helpful.

Like the difference between the old Delta and the new Bosch.

>
> The Kapex is so simple and elegant that it is like the difference in
> changing blades in the old Bosch jigsaws to a current Bosch jig saw.

Assuming the JS470E is current enough, I know what you mean.

[DerbyDad03]

What model Bosch?

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 18 Aug 2022 10:57:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 11:12:54 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Thu, 18 Aug 2022 13:10:50 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
>> wrote:
>> >DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
>> >>On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 11:46:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
>> >>> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> >>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> >Survey time...
>> >>> >
>> >>> >How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>> >>> >while making a cut?
>> >>> End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.
>> >>
>> >>So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?
>> >
>> >My first miter saw (Delta) had a nice clamp attachment to hold
>> >the board which could be switched to either side.
>> By Bosch has a clamp, too, but it's as close to useless as it could be
>> made.
>
>What model Bosch?

5412, I think. One with the rails towards the back, not the scissors
arm one.

[DerbyDad03]

That's a pretty strange looking clamp. WTF were they thinking?

The one on my Bosch Glide saw ("scissors" as you call it) is as simple as it gets. What
more do you need?

https://media.repairtoolparts.com/image/Bosch/1609B02315.jpg

[Bill]

If I have the least bit of hesitation, I don't hesitate to use a clamp.
I should have even followed that advise when I last used my drill
press...I thought, I got the work held against a fence, that should be
enough--but it wasn't. ; )

[k...@notreal.com]

Yeah, I've been bitten by a drill press more often than all other
tools combined. It looks like such an innocuous tool until the bit
catches, which it always does if the piece isn't anchored. Some bits
are better than others.

[Bill]

Good point. The bit I was using was big relative to the size of the
work and I didn't take that into consideration.

[DerbyDad03]

I made a pair of these from some aluminum stock that I had
lying around. They live in the T tracks of my drill press table,
always at the ready.

https://images.app.goo.gl/xTU75zJ616PpjKd6A

[Puckdropper]

DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> wrote in news:e612be32-660f-4c4c-99b7-
9fd396...@googlegroups.com:

> Survey time...
>
> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
> while making a cut?

I'd say a few inches, maybe 3-4? It's been a while since I've really
looked at the distance. One thing it's easy to do is to allow my thumb to
point out away from my hand so I'm always paying attention to where it is.

The clamp on my CMS wasn't that great, so I'm usually the clamp. I'm not
sure if I even know where it is.

Puckdropper

[Bill]

That is a nice solution; just what is needed!

[Puckdropper]

DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> wrote in
news:b5069862-4f86-446b...@googlegroups.com:

>
> I made a pair of these from some aluminum stock that I had
> lying around. They live in the T tracks of my drill press table,
> always at the ready.
>
> https://images.app.goo.gl/xTU75zJ616PpjKd6A
>

I like that table design! Mine has the standard ring with the radial slots
to hold a drill press vise that apparently no one has ever tried to mount
to it.

That's going to have to go on my project list. Someone really thought
about what drill presses really need there!

Puckdropper

[Leon]

This is simple. Push the plunger down to the work, then turn the lever
1/4 turn to apply pressure. Reverse to unlock.

To move from one side to the other, rotate the clamp 180 degrees and lift.

https://www.hartvillehardware.com/product/sku-42522?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Google+Shopping&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKCAjw6fyXBhBgEiwAhhiZsssOqHYYZojT51m9LrgYKg2MiKWINwBTcNrB5x7acZCw28Fma7GCdhoCBDcQAvD_BwE

[DerbyDad03]

My DIY drill press table is probably twice that size. I forget where I got it, but
I had an old cabinet door (I think), 3/4" veneered plywood. Smooth & flat. I
added 3 T-tracks and a recess for 3" x 3" inserts under the bit. I can change
them out when they get beat up. The fence uses the same T-tracks as the hold
downs.

The table is bolted to the small square metal table that came with the drill press,
which is what rides on the pole.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 18 Aug 2022 21:38:47 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 8:28:12 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
>> On 8/18/2022 11:11 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> > On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 21:22:40 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> > <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >
>> >> On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 9:20:05 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> >>> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> >>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>>> Survey time...
>> >>>>
>> >>>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>> >>>> while making a cut?
>> >>> Shoulder's width. Both arms/hands straight forward.
>> >>
>> >> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow the fingers of
>> >> the hand holding the board to get while making a cut.
>> >
>> > A foot. I don't think I've cut anything less. Any smaller and I use
>> > the table saw.
>> If I have the least bit of hesitation, I don't hesitate to use a clamp.
>> I should have even followed that advise when I last used my drill
>> press...I thought, I got the work held against a fence, that should be
>> enough--but it wasn't. ; )
>
>I made a pair of these from some aluminum stock that I had
>lying around. They live in the T tracks of my drill press table,
>always at the ready.
>
>https://images.app.goo.gl/xTU75zJ616PpjKd6A

I've found that this slight variation works a lot better. The bearing
under the knob makes operation a lot smoother. There are several
brands of these around. I have an Incra clamp that works like this.

https://masscaproducts.com/collections/viking-arm-clamps/products/massca-hold-down-clamps

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 19 Aug 2022 05:56:27 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Woodpeckers thought about it too and came up with a really nice table.

https://www.woodpeck.com/dp-pro-drill-press-table.html

The price isn't so great though. I'm going to steal the base and
drawer under the table.

>
>Puckdropper

[Bob Davis]

Its pretty. I think the dust collection in the fence is wrong. Drill press dust collection is one of the most variable and difficult dust collection tasks. Fence based collection rarely works well. I finally landed on always using hold down clamps and a handheld vacuum nozzle placed where dust collection is optimized for each unique configuration. I also had the woodpecker hold down clamps which worked well but took way too nuch setup time. I gave them away. My current favorite solution is a pair of these Kreg clamps. They are fast set up and always work, if your track configuration is robust.

https://www.kregtool.com/shop/clamping/clamps/6-bench-clamp/KBC6.html

Bob

[DerbyDad03]

That set is missing one key feature that my pair has: Free-ness.

[ritzann...@gmail.com]

On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 12:09:58 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Survey time...
>
> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
> while making a cut?

5-6 inches roughly. A miter saw, sliding or fixed, has a stationary piece of wood. Unlike with a table saw. So you can easily clamp the wood down before the cut. Or more likely position your clamping hand 6 inches away from the blade to hold the wood down. Your hands don't ever move. So you should be able to put them in the right place, 6 inches or so away, and then make the cut.

I do not know if more people are injured with miter saws or table saws. But in theory anyway, a miter saw should be safer because the wood is not moving. Your hands are not moving or guiding the wood into the blade. Everything should be stationary and fixed in place before the blade starts spinning.

[DerbyDad03]

On Saturday, August 20, 2022 at 2:03:41 AM UTC-4, russell...@yahoo.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 12:09:58 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > Survey time...
> >
> > How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
> > while making a cut?
> 5-6 inches roughly. A miter saw, sliding or fixed, has a stationary piece of wood. Unlike with a table saw. So you can easily clamp the wood down before the cut. Or more likely position your clamping hand 6 inches away from the blade to hold the wood down. Your hands don't ever move. So you should be able to put them in the right place, 6 inches or so away, and then make the cut.

You can only position your hand 6” away if the board you are
cutting is at least 6” long.

>
> I do not know if more people are injured with miter saws or table saws. But in theory anyway, a miter saw should be safer because the wood is not moving. Your hands are not moving or guiding the wood into the blade. Everything should be stationary and fixed in place before the blade starts spinning.

Even at 2” or less away, everything can still be stationary and
held in place. It’s not the like blade is going to alter it’s fixed path.

[Bill]

I worry, perhaps needlessly, about the blade tugging the work into the
blade. That's why I make sure my left hand is more tightly affixed to
something else than it is to the work, when working close to the blade
like that. My experience, is not so much though, and that surely that
is related to my (unnecessary?) caution.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 19 Aug 2022 17:24:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Free is good.

[k...@notreal.com]

No kickback with miter saws either. Kickback sucking the fingers into
the blade always concerns me.

[DerbyDad03]

I came across a youtube where some guy was trying to prove how
dangerous a miter saw is. One of those "why this tool can kill you,
you better stop now, never use it again" videos. The thing is, all he
did was show the problem but never offered the solution. (I can't
find it right now, otherwise I'd post the link)

What he did was clamp a stop block just a few inches from the blade.
Then he slid a board up to the block, cut the board and then - with the
blade still spinning - lifted the saw head. The cut off shot across the
room. End of video.

People were commenting things like "Holy sh*t! Thank you for showing this."
"Wow, miter saws are really dangerous." "Great video! Thanks!"

I added my own comment:

"Let the blade stop before lifting it out of the workpiece. Miter Saw 101"

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 20 Aug 2022 18:39:19 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Saturday, August 20, 2022 at 8:16:27 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Fri, 19 Aug 2022 23:03:38 -0700 (PDT), "russell...@yahoo.com"
>> <ritzann...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 12:09:58 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >> Survey time...
>> >>
>> >> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>> >> while making a cut?
>> >
>> >5-6 inches roughly. A miter saw, sliding or fixed, has a stationary piece of wood. Unlike with a table saw. So you can easily clamp the wood down before the cut. Or more likely position your clamping hand 6 inches away from the blade to hold the wood down. Your hands don't ever move. So you should be able to put them in the right place, 6 inches or so away, and then make the cut.
>> >
>> >I do not know if more people are injured with miter saws or table saws. But in theory anyway, a miter saw should be safer because the wood is not moving. Your hands are not moving or guiding the wood into the blade. Everything should be stationary and fixed in place before the blade starts spinning.
>> No kickback with miter saws either. Kickback sucking the fingers into
>> the blade always concerns me.
>
>I came across a youtube where some guy was trying to prove how
>dangerous a miter saw is. One of those "why this tool can kill you,
>you better stop now, never use it again" videos. The thing is, all he
>did was show the problem but never offered the solution. (I can't
>find it right now, otherwise I'd post the link)
>
>What he did was clamp a stop block just a few inches from the blade.
>Then he slid a board up to the block, cut the board and then - with the
>blade still spinning - lifted the saw head. The cut off shot across the
>room. End of video.

Kinda like using both a miter gauge and a fence on a table saw.

>
>People were commenting things like "Holy sh*t! Thank you for showing this."
>"Wow, miter saws are really dangerous." "Great video! Thanks!"

I'd have responded with "Wow", too, but with different wording.

>I added my own comment:
>
>"Let the blade stop before lifting it out of the workpiece. Miter Saw 101"

They do have a brake so it doesn't take more than a few seconds to
wind down.

[DerbyDad03]

On Saturday, August 20, 2022 at 10:42:09 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Aug 2022 18:39:19 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
> >On Saturday, August 20, 2022 at 8:16:27 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> >> On Fri, 19 Aug 2022 23:03:38 -0700 (PDT), "russell...@yahoo.com"
> >> <ritzann...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> >On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 12:09:58 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> >> Survey time...
> >> >>
> >> >> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
> >> >> while making a cut?
> >> >
> >> >5-6 inches roughly. A miter saw, sliding or fixed, has a stationary piece of wood. Unlike with a table saw. So you can easily clamp the wood down before the cut. Or more likely position your clamping hand 6 inches away from the blade to hold the wood down. Your hands don't ever move. So you should be able to put them in the right place, 6 inches or so away, and then make the cut.
> >> >
> >> >I do not know if more people are injured with miter saws or table saws. But in theory anyway, a miter saw should be safer because the wood is not moving. Your hands are not moving or guiding the wood into the blade. Everything should be stationary and fixed in place before the blade starts spinning.
> >> No kickback with miter saws either. Kickback sucking the fingers into
> >> the blade always concerns me.
> >
> >I came across a youtube where some guy was trying to prove how
> >dangerous a miter saw is. One of those "why this tool can kill you,
> >you better stop now, never use it again" videos. The thing is, all he
> >did was show the problem but never offered the solution. (I can't
> >find it right now, otherwise I'd post the link)
> >
> >What he did was clamp a stop block just a few inches from the blade.
> >Then he slid a board up to the block, cut the board and then - with the
> >blade still spinning - lifted the saw head. The cut off shot across the
> >room. End of video.
> Kinda like using both a miter gauge and a fence on a table saw.

If you mean "completely safe if done correctly" then I agree that it's
"kinda like" that.

On a miter saw it's safe to use a stop block in that manner as long
as you let the blade stop.

On a table saw it's safe to use the miter gauge and fence if you use
a spacer black on the fence.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 20 Aug 2022 20:12:57 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

I let the blade wind down for ANY cut. It only takes a couple of
seconds.

>On a table saw it's safe to use the miter gauge and fence if you use
>a spacer black on the fence.

As long as the rear of the spacer is in front of the blade.

[Leon]

Your comment is what Festool, and I am sure others too, says.

[Leon]

On 8/20/2022 9:42 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Aug 2022 18:39:19 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
>> On Saturday, August 20, 2022 at 8:16:27 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>>> On Fri, 19 Aug 2022 23:03:38 -0700 (PDT), "russell...@yahoo.com"
>>> <ritzann...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 12:09:58 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> Survey time...
>>>>>
>>>>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>>>>> while making a cut?
>>>>
>>>> 5-6 inches roughly. A miter saw, sliding or fixed, has a stationary piece of wood. Unlike with a table saw. So you can easily clamp the wood down before the cut. Or more likely position your clamping hand 6 inches away from the blade to hold the wood down. Your hands don't ever move. So you should be able to put them in the right place, 6 inches or so away, and then make the cut.
>>>>
>>>> I do not know if more people are injured with miter saws or table saws. But in theory anyway, a miter saw should be safer because the wood is not moving. Your hands are not moving or guiding the wood into the blade. Everything should be stationary and fixed in place before the blade starts spinning.
>>> No kickback with miter saws either. Kickback sucking the fingers into
>>> the blade always concerns me.
>>
>> I came across a youtube where some guy was trying to prove how
>> dangerous a miter saw is. One of those "why this tool can kill you,
>> you better stop now, never use it again" videos. The thing is, all he
>> did was show the problem but never offered the solution. (I can't
>> find it right now, otherwise I'd post the link)
>>
>> What he did was clamp a stop block just a few inches from the blade.
>> Then he slid a board up to the block, cut the board and then - with the
>> blade still spinning - lifted the saw head. The cut off shot across the
>> room. End of video.
>
> Kinda like using both a miter gauge and a fence on a table saw.

Well in some instances you don't want to do that, miter gauge and rip
fence, but I cut rabbets this way. No problem at all since this is not
a through cut operation.

[Jack]

On 8/18/2022 6:14 AM, Jay Pique wrote:

> On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 1:09:58 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> Survey time...
>>
>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>> while making a cut?
>

> It's sort of like the people that drop to 15mph below the speed limit when they see a cop.
> You don't get bonus points for being below the limit.
> As long as my hand isn't in the path of the blade it's not getting cut.
> The important thing (for me) is to be sure I'm not moving my holding hand as I'm lowering the blade, especially when I'm doing a bunch of repetitive cuts. The little shorties where I'm sure (some) people would freak out of they saw it always have my full attention anyways.
> YMMV.
While not specifically related to miter saws, check out Frick'n Jeep at
his saw mill:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJ_WmxYDPuE
go to 14:50 on the time line then drop him a note on
how stupid he is for doing this for the past 30 years. He's still in his
early 70's so when he gets a little older he might be wise to use a
stick more often.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 8/18/2022 12:19 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

> On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 11:46:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
>> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Survey time...
>>>
>>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>>> while making a cut?

>> End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.
>
> So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?

If too short for comfort I put another board on top to hold it. Never
measure but my limit is about 12" or so.

[DerbyDad03]

Now there's a technique I've seen or even heard of.

> Never measure but my limit is about 12" or so.

I would need to put a decimal point between the 1 and the 2.

What do you think could go wrong that keeps you 12" from the blade?

Let's cut that in half. (NPI) Let's say your hand was 6" away. How would
a person get hurt by a miter saw with a hand that is more than a finger's
length away?

[Markem618]

On Wed, 24 Aug 2022 20:12:57 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 10:45:43 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 8/18/2022 12:19 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 11:46:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
>> >> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> Survey time...
>> >>>
>> >>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>> >>> while making a cut?
>> >> End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.
>> >
>> > So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?
>> If too short for comfort I put another board on top to hold it.
>
>Now there's a technique I've seen or even heard of.
>
>> Never measure but my limit is about 12" or so.
>
>I would need to put a decimal point between the 1 and the 2.
>
>What do you think could go wrong that keeps you 12" from the blade?
>
>Let's cut that in half. (NPI) Let's say your hand was 6" away. How would
>a person get hurt by a miter saw with a hand that is more than a finger's
>length away?

Jammed finger if something goes awry? Being tired and in a hurry is
not recommend though, that my story I have all my fingers though, skin
lucky grows back.

[DerbyDad03]

What do you mean by “jammed fingers” and what could go
“awry” to cause that?

I’m looking for a specific situation, similar to how you would
explain kickback on a table saw. “The board does _this_ causing
your hand to do _this_.”

What could happen with the wood and blade to cause an injury
while holding it at 2” that wouldn’t happen while holding it at 6”
or 12”? (I am, of course, assuming that the user is fully aware
of the placement of all fingers, e.g. the thumb or any other finger
is not in the path of the blade.)

[Scott Lurndal]

DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
>On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 10:45:43 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 8/18/2022 12:19 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 11:46:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
>> >> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> Survey time...
>> >>>
>> >>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>> >>> while making a cut?
>> >> End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.
>> >
>> > So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?
>> If too short for comfort I put another board on top to hold it.
>
>Now there's a technique I've seen or even heard of.
>
>> Never measure but my limit is about 12" or so.
>
>I would need to put a decimal point between the 1 and the 2.
>
>What do you think could go wrong that keeps you 12" from the blade?

I've seen a blade _pull_ a board towards the blade when the board isn't
perfectly flat and square or if it hits a buried knot.

[Ed Pawlowski]

In theory, the blade travels a tight path so 1/4" is safe.

[Leon]

The work coming back against your hand or finger and jamming the finger
joint.

If the blade caught the piece you are holding and bangs it into the back
fence and then back toward your hand/finger.

> I’m looking for a specific situation, similar to how you would
> explain kickback on a table saw. “The board does _this_ causing
> your hand to do _this_.”
>
> What could happen with the wood and blade to cause an injury
> while holding it at 2” that wouldn’t happen while holding it at 6”
> or 12”? (I am, of course, assuming that the user is fully aware
> of the placement of all fingers, e.g. the thumb or any other finger
> is not in the path of the blade.)

With a 2" long piece you do not have as much leverage and or holding
force to keep the piece flat against the fence as with a 4" long piece.




When in doubt, with the saw blade up and away try a 2" long piece and a
4" long piece against the fence. Notice the more of the 4 inch piece is
against the fence and less likely to pivot at the fence opening than the
2" long piece.

Also think about cutting a 4 foot long piece in half. Now cutting 2"
off of the end of that piece. It happens with regularity that the
shorter cut off pieces twist, jam, and get thrown by the blade.


And the narrower the stock the more likely to jam.

[Leon]

Yes! but theory is what should happen. Case hardened wood, warped
wood, what ever the issue, the wood can move slightly and cause all
kinds of havoc if the piece is short and mostly NOT supported by the
back fence.


Most miter saw fences have something like a 2" gap between the left and
right fence. So if the piece is 2" wide only half of the piece is
being supported by the end of the fence on either side. The piece can
easily pivot on the end of the fence and get thrown by the blade.

A few weeks ago I was cutting base board moldings. In some cases the
piece needed was mitered on one end and square cut on the opposite and
they were 1.5" long.
This was a dangerous cut and I stood clear of the where that piece would
fly back should it pivot against the end of the fence. It happened
twice. Ideally this should have been done a TS but I was not at the shop.

[Bill]

On 8/25/2022 10:54 AM, Leon wrote:

>> What do you mean by “jammed fingers” and what could go
>> “awry” to cause that?
>>
>
> The work coming back against your hand or finger and jamming the finger
> joint.

I had a piece of wood snapped away ("forward") from me once,
so I will validate that it can happen. It was a gentle reminder
that the work should be pushed all the way forward before you cut! : )

[Leon]

Well in my case if you do a LOT of woodworking something is going to
happen at some time or another. And a lapse of judgement is the
leading cause. Weekend before last I had issues with short pieces
coming back at me but this has happened time and again in the past so I
made sure that the saw motor was between me and the work.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Wed, 24 Aug 2022 20:12:57 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 10:45:43 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 8/18/2022 12:19 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 11:46:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
>> >> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> Survey time...
>> >>>
>> >>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>> >>> while making a cut?
>> >> End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.
>> >
>> > So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?
>> If too short for comfort I put another board on top to hold it.
>
>Now there's a technique I've seen or even heard of.
>
>> Never measure but my limit is about 12" or so.
>
>I would need to put a decimal point between the 1 and the 2.
>
>What do you think could go wrong that keeps you 12" from the blade?

GO wrong? Stupid mistake. Not thinking. Distraction (and if you say
that you're never distracted when your attitude about something is
"What could go wrong?", well...

As soon as you say "What could go wrong?" It will.

[k...@notreal.com]

In theory, reality and theory are the same. In reality, they aren't.

[DerbyDad03]

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 2:36:10 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> On Wed, 24 Aug 2022 20:12:57 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
> >On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 10:45:43 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> >> On 8/18/2022 12:19 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> > On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 11:46:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
> >> >> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> >> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >>> Survey time...
> >> >>>
> >> >>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
> >> >>> while making a cut?
> >> >> End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.
> >> >
> >> > So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?
> >> If too short for comfort I put another board on top to hold it.
> >
> >Now there's a technique I've seen or even heard of.
> >
> >> Never measure but my limit is about 12" or so.
> >
> >I would need to put a decimal point between the 1 and the 2.
> >
> >What do you think could go wrong that keeps you 12" from the blade?
> GO wrong? Stupid mistake. Not thinking. Distraction (and if you say
> that you're never distracted when your attitude about something is
> "What could go wrong?", well...

What you read as an "attitude" was typed as a legitimate question.

As far as being distracted, of course, that happens to all of us from time
to time. But if I am doing something like making a "hazardous" cut (e.g.
fingers close the blade) my concentration is centered on the cut.

I'm going to take a guess here and assume that you do the same thing:
"OK, pay attention. Where are my fingers, what is the wood going to do?
What could go wrong?"

I tend to follow the old adage of "If what you are about to do makes you
uncomfortable, there is probably a reason." Stop, think about it and perhaps
comes up with an alternative way to get the job done.

>
> As soon as you say "What could go wrong?" It will.

Nope, because, at least for me, saying "What could go wrong?" is not
the cavalier attitude that you took it to be. It's a legitimate question. An
assessment of the situation. A chance to change what I'm going to do
next, because I took the time to answer the question.

I ask myself that question all time and not just in the shop. Setting up
a ladder, jacking up the car, any situation where something *could* go
wrong, I ask myself "What could go wrong?" and then I adjust my plan
as required.

[DerbyDad03]

I agree with everything you've said here. I thought I addressed that issue
a few days ago, but looking back I see that I did not mentioned it. I know
that I thought about, because it makes a big difference in terms of my
hand placement question:

Both of my miter saws have zero clearance fences and zero clearance inserts.
I wouldn't cut some of the small pieces that I do without the fence and insert
backing up both sides as well as the bottom of the cut.

On the other hand (PI), you are talking about a situation where the cutoff could
be thrown, while I'm asking about hand placement on the board. In either case, a
zero clearance fence makes a huge difference.

(I was cutting some plugs in half on my bandsaw recently. I used blue painters
tape to create a zero clearance "insert" around the blade so that the plug was fully
supported by the table as it went through the blade.)

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 12:30:42 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 2:36:10 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 24 Aug 2022 20:12:57 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>>
>> >On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 10:45:43 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> >> On 8/18/2022 12:19 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >> > On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 11:46:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
>> >> >> On Wed, 17 Aug 2022 10:09:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> >> >> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >>> Survey time...
>> >> >>>
>> >> >>> How close to your miter saw blade do you allow your fingers to get
>> >> >>> while making a cut?
>> >> >> End of the table with the left, right hand is on the switch.
>> >> >
>> >> > So you never cut boards that are shorter than half the table?
>> >> If too short for comfort I put another board on top to hold it.
>> >
>> >Now there's a technique I've seen or even heard of.
>> >
>> >> Never measure but my limit is about 12" or so.
>> >
>> >I would need to put a decimal point between the 1 and the 2.
>> >
>> >What do you think could go wrong that keeps you 12" from the blade?
>> GO wrong? Stupid mistake. Not thinking. Distraction (and if you say
>> that you're never distracted when your attitude about something is
>> "What could go wrong?", well...
>
>What you read as an "attitude" was typed as a legitimate question.

"What can go wrong?" attitude leads to complacency.

>As far as being distracted, of course, that happens to all of us from time
>to time. But if I am doing something like making a "hazardous" cut (e.g.
>fingers close the blade) my concentration is centered on the cut.

THe nonchalant "What can go wrong?" attitude makes it a whole lot
worse. If you *expect* something to go wrong, distractions are a lot
less likely.

>
>I'm going to take a guess here and assume that you do the same thing:
>"OK, pay attention. Where are my fingers, what is the wood going to do?
>What could go wrong?"

The difference is that you're saying "What can go wrong?" as in "What,
me worry?", vs my attitude of "what _could_ go wrong?" (there is a
difference", or what happens _if_ something does go wrong". I don't
want my hands anywhere near the blade if something *DOES* go wrong,
even if that something could "never go wrong".

I'm a conservative. Unintended consequences are inevitable.

>
>I tend to follow the old adage of "If what you are about to do makes you
>uncomfortable, there is probably a reason." Stop, think about it and perhaps
>comes up with an alternative way to get the job done.

So that's why you put your fingers 2" from the blade? Putting your
fingers right next to a spinning, moving, blade doesn't make you
uncomfortable? It certainly does me. That's why they're a shoulder's
width away.

>> As soon as you say "What could go wrong?" It will.
>
>Nope, because, at least for me, saying "What could go wrong?" is not
>the cavalier attitude that you took it to be. It's a legitimate question. An
>assessment of the situation. A chance to change what I'm going to do
>next, because I took the time to answer the question.

Yet you put your fingers right next to a spinning, moving blade. Even
parallax doesn't bother you.

>I ask myself that question all time and not just in the shop. Setting up
>a ladder, jacking up the car, any situation where something *could* go
>wrong, I ask myself "What could go wrong?" and then I adjust my plan
>as required.
>

But you don't think "What can go wrong, then lean 2' outside the
ladder or use the top step anyway.

[Jay Pique]

12" from the blade on many (most?) miter saws is outside of the fence - you'd be pushing against air.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 15:23:31 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
<JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>12" from the blade on many (most?) miter saws is outside of the fence - you'd be pushing against air.

13" from blade to edge of table on one, 11" on the other. From
sternum to shoulder = 9". It works even without a miter station.

[DerbyDad03]

It's like you never even read my post. If you did, then you certainly missed the
point by about 1000 board feet.

I said, right at the beginning, that you mistook my question for an attitude, yet
you came right back with "What can go wrong?" attitude leads to complacency."

Then you repeated your assumption, absolutely reversing what I specifically said.

"The difference is that you're saying "What can go wrong?" as in "What,
me worry?", vs my attitude of "what _could_ go wrong?""

You are completely wrong with that assumption. I said it before and I just said it
again - for the last time.

[Jay Pique]

What are you even talking about -is this meant for me or your tailor?

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 16:48:37 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique

<JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 7:11:36 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 15:23:31 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
>> <JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >12" from the blade on many (most?) miter saws is outside of the fence - you'd be pushing against air.
>> 13" from blade to edge of table on one, 11" on the other. From
>> sternum to shoulder = 9". It works even without a miter station.
>
>What are you even talking about -is this meant for me or your tailor?

Read the thread. *I* didn't say 12". That was DD.

*I* said a shoulder's width (i.e. arm kept straight from shoulder to
saw).

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 16:28:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

No, 1000bf has no point. We're talking about the distance from
fingers to blade.

>I said, right at the beginning, that you mistook my question for an attitude, yet
>you came right back with "What can go wrong?" attitude leads to complacency."

It is a very ambiguous statement.

>Then you repeated your assumption, absolutely reversing what I specifically said.
>
>"The difference is that you're saying "What can go wrong?" as in "What,
> me worry?", vs my attitude of "what _could_ go wrong?""

You can't always know what _could_ go wrong. I want as much margin as
possible.

>You are completely wrong with that assumption. I said it before and I just said it
>again - for the last time.

OK

[Bill]

On 8/25/2022 3:30 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

> I ask myself that question all time and not just in the shop. Setting up
> a ladder, jacking up the car, any situation where something *could* go
> wrong, I ask myself "What could go wrong?" and then I adjust my plan
> as required.

Someone formulated a rule (which can't restate exactly), but the gist of
it is that the "set up" should be such that there are at least two
mistakes in front of any major mishap, not just one.

[Jay Pique]

Actually you said, and I quote, "Shoulder's width. Both arms/hands straight forward."
But we both know why you changed it.

[k...@notreal.com]

And airplanes still fall out of the sky.

[DerbyDad03]

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 8:32:15 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 16:48:37 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
> <JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 7:11:36 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
> >> On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 15:23:31 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
> >> <JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> >12" from the blade on many (most?) miter saws is outside of the fence - you'd be pushing against air.
> >> 13" from blade to edge of table on one, 11" on the other. From
> >> sternum to shoulder = 9". It works even without a miter station.
> >
> >What are you even talking about -is this meant for me or your tailor?
> Read the thread. *I* didn't say 12". That was DD.

Read the thread. *I* didn't say 12". That was Ed.

I *questioned* Ed's limit of 12", asking what he thought could wrong that
set 12" as his limit.

[Leon]

Yes but normally I cut small pieces in my shop on the TS. This was an
onsite job and I do not have zero clearance fences on my Kapex, yet.
And I am not certain that a zero clearance fence would be the answer in
this case. The moldings were too tall to make miter cuts, So I made
bevel cuts which would have made a V on a Zero clearance fence. That
still would have provided poor support.

>
> On the other hand (PI), you are talking about a situation where the cutoff could
> be thrown, while I'm asking about hand placement on the board. In either case, a
> zero clearance fence makes a huge difference.

Again bevel cuts vs miter cuts.

>
> (I was cutting some plugs in half on my bandsaw recently. I used blue painters
> tape to create a zero clearance "insert" around the blade so that the plug was fully
> supported by the table as it went through the blade.)
>

+1

[DerbyDad03]

Yes...not all situations are equal.

> >
> > On the other hand (PI), you are talking about a situation where the cutoff could
> > be thrown, while I'm asking about hand placement on the board. In either case, a
> > zero clearance fence makes a huge difference.
> Again bevel cuts vs miter cuts.

Yes...not all situations are equal.

> >
> > (I was cutting some plugs in half on my bandsaw recently. I used blue painters
> > tape to create a zero clearance "insert" around the blade so that the plug was fully
> > supported by the table as it went through the blade.)
> >
> +1

Thanks.

[pyotr filipivich]

Bill <none...@att.net> on Fri, 26 Aug 2022 01:06:51 -0400 typed in
rec.woodworking the following:

>On 8/25/2022 3:30 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>> I ask myself that question all time and not just in the shop. Setting up
>> a ladder, jacking up the car, any situation where something *could* go
>> wrong, I ask myself "What could go wrong?" and then I adjust my plan
>> as required.

Sometimes, you have no idea what could go wrong, until it does.

E.G., jack stands on cobblestone paving are mostly stable. Until
they are not, and the one stone under the leg "packs" down just that
"little bit" to get vector of the weight of the bus past the
metacenter, and the jack tips. Just a little, before it falls over.
Fortunately, I heard the "creaking" and rolled out from underneath as
it fell.
So, now I know "what can go wrong" for a large class of
activities.

>
>Someone formulated a rule (which can't restate exactly), but the gist of
>it is that the "set up" should be such that there are at least two
>mistakes in front of any major mishap, not just one.

--
pyotr filipivich
This Week's Panel: Us & Them - Eliminating Them.
Next Month's Panel: Having eliminated the old Them(tm)
Selecting who insufficiently Woke(tm) as to serve as the new Them(tm)

[DerbyDad03]

On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 2:30:58 PM UTC-4, pyotr filipivich wrote:
> Bill <none...@att.net> on Fri, 26 Aug 2022 01:06:51 -0400 typed in
> rec.woodworking the following:
> >On 8/25/2022 3:30 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >
> >> I ask myself that question all time and not just in the shop. Setting up
> >> a ladder, jacking up the car, any situation where something *could* go
> >> wrong, I ask myself "What could go wrong?" and then I adjust my plan
> >> as required.
> Sometimes, you have no idea what could go wrong, until it does.

That's absolutely true but it doesn't mean that you shouldn't ask yourself
the "What could go wrong?" question and, using your past knowledge and
experience, eliminate all of the possible issues that you can think of.

Similar to what you said, there's an old saying "We don't know what we don't
know." Simply reminding ourselves of that can help make the surprises less
surprising.

>
> E.G., jack stands on cobblestone paving are mostly stable. Until
> they are not, and the one stone under the leg "packs" down just that
> "little bit" to get vector of the weight of the bus past the
> metacenter, and the jack tips. Just a little, before it falls over.

I have four 12" x 12" x 1/4" steel plates stored with my jack stands. I
don't take any chances when I get under a vehicle. Each jack stand gets
a solid platform of its own. (The plates also prevent the legs from leaving
indentations on a hot asphalt driveway.)

...snip...

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 26 Aug 2022 04:01:51 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique

<JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 8:32:15 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 16:48:37 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
>> <JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 7:11:36 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> >> On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 15:23:31 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
>> >> <JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >12" from the blade on many (most?) miter saws is outside of the fence - you'd be pushing against air.
>> >> 13" from blade to edge of table on one, 11" on the other. From
>> >> sternum to shoulder = 9". It works even without a miter station.
>> >
>> >What are you even talking about -is this meant for me or your tailor?
>> Read the thread. *I* didn't say 12". That was DD.
>>
>> *I* said a shoulder's width (i.e. arm kept straight from shoulder to
>> saw).
>
>Actually you said, and I quote, "Shoulder's width. Both arms/hands straight forward."
>But we both know why you changed it.

Oh, good grief. Are you always such an asshole?

First, you *did* say 12". Second, I'm not really that concerned about
the hand holding the handle.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 26 Aug 2022 09:13:24 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 8:32:15 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 16:48:37 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
>> <JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 7:11:36 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> >> On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 15:23:31 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
>> >> <JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >12" from the blade on many (most?) miter saws is outside of the fence - you'd be pushing against air.
>> >> 13" from blade to edge of table on one, 11" on the other. From
>> >> sternum to shoulder = 9". It works even without a miter station.
>> >
>> >What are you even talking about -is this meant for me or your tailor?
>> Read the thread. *I* didn't say 12". That was DD.
>
>Read the thread. *I* didn't say 12". That was Ed.

Sorry, I apologize.

>
>I *questioned* Ed's limit of 12", asking what he thought could wrong that
>set 12" as his limit.

I don't know what could go wrong that far away but I'm not taking
chances if there is nothing to gain by doing so. It's good to have
rules for oneself (like never reaching past the blade of a table saw
that's still spinning or never, ever, stand behind the workpiece and
if at all possible, hide behind the fence.

[Jay Pique]

Yes - and you just assumed I was addressing you. Read the thread.
You and I both know you're just spewing nonsense. You've already backpedaled once. Now you're going to claim you center your sternum on the blade of the saw so your ' sternum to shoulder = 9" ' blather sort of makes sense?

[Jay Pique]

On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 10:40:35 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

> if at all possible, hide behind the fence.

Lol. Now you're just trolling.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 27 Aug 2022 05:54:44 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique

<JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 10:37:31 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Fri, 26 Aug 2022 04:01:51 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
>> <JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 8:32:15 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> >> On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 16:48:37 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
>> >> <JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 7:11:36 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> >> >> On Thu, 25 Aug 2022 15:23:31 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
>> >> >> <JayP...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> >12" from the blade on many (most?) miter saws is outside of the fence - you'd be pushing against air.
>> >> >> 13" from blade to edge of table on one, 11" on the other. From
>> >> >> sternum to shoulder = 9". It works even without a miter station.
>> >> >
>> >> >What are you even talking about -is this meant for me or your tailor?
>> >> Read the thread. *I* didn't say 12". That was DD.
>> >>
>> >> *I* said a shoulder's width (i.e. arm kept straight from shoulder to
>> >> saw).
>> >
>> >Actually you said, and I quote, "Shoulder's width. Both arms/hands straight forward."
>> >But we both know why you changed it.
>> Oh, good grief. Are you always such an asshole?
>>
>> First, you *did* say 12". Second, I'm not really that concerned about
>> the hand holding the handle.
>
>Yes - and you just assumed I was addressing you. Read the thread.

I'm where the wider hand position started from.

>You and I both know you're just spewing nonsense. You've already backpedaled once. Now you're going to claim you center your sternum on the blade of the saw so your ' sternum to shoulder = 9" ' blather sort of makes sense?

Wrong, but I wouldn't expect you to be able to read. I did go into the
shop and try it. Yes, my left arm was straight in front of my left
shoulder. The right arm inward, yes. That's a natural position for
me.

Anyway, join the asshole club. You two make a fine couple.

[k...@notreal.com]

No, you're just still being asshole #2. You ought to try another
shtick. You've mastered this one.

I do hide behind the fence if at all possible. I stand to its right
and push with my left so nothing will come back at me. I don't break
down sheet goods on my table saw so it works for most operations.
Small crosscuts and pieces don't often kick back. Sometimes really
long boards have to be held more from behind so it doesn't always work
but whenever possible...