Chuck just fell off Craftsman drill press . . .
Tom Baker
drill bit gets stuck in the work momentarily. Next thing I know the entire
chuck just falls off, loose, on the table. This drill press is maybe five
years old, and very little used. What the chuck came off of is a smooth
tapered shaft that sticks down out of the head of the drill press. I tried
to figure out what is supposed to hold the chuck onto that shaft, but I
can't see anything-- no set screws, no threads, nothing. The inside bore
of the chuck is as smooth as the tapered shaft it fell off of. So, how do
I put it back on?
I bought this drill press at a bankruptcy sale and I didn't get a manual
with it, so now I guess I'll have to go to the Sears Craftsman website and
order one. Meanwhile, can anyone tell me how I might put this chuck back
on the drill press? Is it simply a press fit, and if so, should I just
slip the chuck back onto the tapered shaft and give it a couple of good
wallops with a hammer? (through a block of wood, of course). And if so,
what a mickey-mouse way to hold things together! No wonder some people
call this brand Crapsman.
Thanks for any help.
Tom
Unisaw A100
>Meanwhile, can anyone tell me how I might put this chuck back
>on the drill press? Is it simply a press fit,
Yes it is. Clean both surfaces first. Unclean surfaces are
your worst enemy here.
>and if so, should I just slip the chuck back onto the tapered shaft
>and give it a couple of good wallops with a hammer? (through a
>block of wood, of course).
I would go the *press fit* route first and use the drill
press itself to seat the chuck. *Walloping* it with a
hammer could scar the edges of the taper. You don't want
that. After it is set you can go back and give it a couple
of light thumps if it makes you feel better.
>And if so, what a mickey-mouse way to hold things together!
It's called a Jacobs taper. Delta, Delta/Milwaukee,
Delta/Rockwell, Walker-Turner, Buffalo, Jet, Wilton, Atlas,
Boice-Crane and (insert name of everyone else that has made
a drill press, and the list is a long one) have all used the
Jacobs taper (1) quite successfully for decades. The next
time you are near a bunch of drill presses look at the
chucks. They will most likely all have a JT engraved onto
them.
If they used a straight shaft with a set screw it would be
nearly impossible to hold any tolerance. My its very nature
the Jacobs taper seats the chuck perfectly every time (2).
>No wonder some people call this brand Crapsman.
Actually, the reason *some* people call it that is, they
have no back bone and are easily led by mob rule. They like
to broad brush entire lines because they *heard it from
someone else* and can't make a determination of their own.
Keep in mind, these are the same people (3) who help us
elect our politicians. Scary, ehh?
(1) Some use a Morse taper though these are typically on
metal working equipment.
(2) This is of course contingent upon the fact that the
taper was good to begin with.
(3) Think about. The same people who watch Oprah, Jerry
Springer and professional wrestling get to pull the lever
just like you and me. It's a trade off for living in the
Land of the Free.
UA100
Tom Watson
reared back, lit the fuse and hurled:
>(3) Think about. The same people who watch Oprah, Jerry
>Springer and professional wrestling get to pull the lever
>just like you and me. It's a trade off for living in the
>Land of the Free.
>
>UA100
Aw, c'mon, Keith. I ain't had coffee yet and ya stuck that one in my
brain like an ice pick - then broke the handle off.
I was really happy readin' bout the Jacobs Taper and then...
Ah, well, I'll use this as an excuse to go to Dunkin' Donuts and buy
good coffee, instead of the crap I usually wake up to.
...and a bunch a dem donuts too...
some a dem ones wif da gooey insides...
yummmm...
This might not turn out to be such a bad Sunday morning, after all.
And I have y'all to thank for that.
Thank you and good morning, Mr. Bohn.
Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson - Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
www.tjwcabinetmaker.com
KnotHead
All American companies should support our troops in the manner Sears is
doing. My understanding is that they are providing full pay and benefits to
their employees families while the troops are in action.
Ken
"Unisaw A100" <Unisa...@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:g8ld8v03q061ftbki...@4ax.com...
Charlie Self
snip of stuff and on to the important parts
>Ah, well, I'll use this as an excuse to go to Dunkin' Donuts and buy
>good coffee, instead of the crap I usually wake up to.
>
>...and a bunch a dem donuts too...
I did the Tim Horton bit this a.m. Great coffee, fine donuts.
Came home to find my wife had fixed my favorite breakfast, including sausage
from a little market over on 19th Street.
Urp.
Charlie Self
"An honest man in politics shines more there than he would elsewhere."
- A Tramp Abroad
Phisherman
if you don't drill into something, stop the rotation, and pull it out.
The trick is getting the taper and hole spotlessly clean, including NO
fingerprints. You can clean it with acetone (assuming you dont have
any plastic parts) or 91% alcohol. To keep fingerprints off of the
parts, use latex gloves. Use a wood, a rawhide or rubber mallet to
tap it back in place. (Don't blame the chuck falling out on Crapsman,
my Delta drill press does the same thing.) If you don't have a
dead-blow furniture mallet, you need one.
On Sun, 30 Mar 2003 01:34:03 -0700, jay...@nmia.com (Tom Baker)
wrote:
--
Phish©
Silvan
> This might not turn out to be such a bad Sunday morning, after all.
Bah humbug. I can't get out to my shop because of the snow, and I can't get
the snow shovel out of the shed without a snow shovel to dig the shed out.
SNOW!
This sucks. Yesterday I was making a toolbox kit for my boy to assemble,
doors wide open, enjoying the warm, summery breeze, and today it's winter
all over again. As if winter wasn't bad enough when it was winter..
--
Michael McIntyre USDA zone 6b in SW VA, USA
Silvan <dmmc...@users.sourceforge.net> Linux Druid
----------[ registered Linux user #243621 ]---------
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/index.html
Unisaw A100
>Very well said about Craftsman. I'm glad to see someone state in so well.
Well thank you. I've been working on my wordsmithing and,
well, I appreciate your own words.
>All American companies should support our troops in the manner Sears is
>doing. My understanding is that they are providing full pay and benefits to
>their employees families while the troops are in action.
Yeah, it's kinda like Dinty Moore finally breaking their
silence on and coming out against terrorism.
UA100
Larry Jaques
<tjwa...@snip.net.nospam> pixelated:
>On Sun, 30 Mar 2003 11:57:07 GMT, The Tablesaw formerly known as Duke
>reared back, lit the fuse and hurled:
>
>>(3) Think about. The same people who watch Oprah, Jerry
>>Springer and professional wrestling get to pull the lever
>>just like you and me. It's a trade off for living in the
>>Land of the Free.
>Aw, c'mon, Keith. I ain't had coffee yet and ya stuck that one in my
>brain like an ice pick - then broke the handle off.
What, you LIKE those teevee folks? (Good imagery, Tawm.)
>I was really happy readin' bout the Jacobs Taper and then...
>
>Ah, well, I'll use this as an excuse to go to Dunkin' Donuts and buy
>good coffee, instead of the crap I usually wake up to.
Roll on down to Costco and pick up a 3lb bag of their
Seattle Mountain Grown Sumatran beans. Take it home
and grind half a pound finely, then mix it with half
a pound of good ground decaf. Brew it strong in the
Mr. Coffee (what us po pipples call the 'spresso)
machine. That makes the best damned cuppa joe in the
world.
P.S: Tell Chuck to stay off the DP, eh?
-
Don't be a possum on the Information Superhighway of life.
----
http://diversify.com Dynamic Database-Driven Websites
Tom G
to use any attachment that would apply sidewise pressure on the chuck. Like
no routing or sanding...just drilling, I guess. Warns that the chuck can
fall off and hurt someone.
"Tom Baker" <jay...@nmia.com> wrote in message
news:jaybird-3003...@dialup287.nmia.com...
Wacko!
the chuck. You don't want to put them under pressure when you press the
taper back into the machine.
Also, there is typically a tab on the top of the taper which mates with a
slot inside the drill press. Line this up before you try to press the taper
back in.
Not to worry. :)
Wacko!
"Tom G" <Tom...@myway.com> wrote in message
news:v8e2hvh...@corp.supernews.com...
John-R W
> drill bit gets stuck in the work momentarily. Next thing I know the entire
> chuck just falls off, loose, on the table. This drill press is maybe five
> years old, and very little used. What the chuck came off of is a smooth
> tapered shaft that sticks down out of the head of the drill press. I tried
> to figure out what is supposed to hold the chuck onto that shaft, but I
> can't see anything-- no set screws, no threads, nothing. The inside bore
> of the chuck is as smooth as the tapered shaft it fell off of. So, how do
> I put it back on?
>
>
>
> Tom
>
putting together the drill chuck and shank. We would clean all the grease
from both the drill chuck bore (tapered bore) and the taper of the shank
with acetone. We would then put the shank in the freezer of the shop
refrigerator for about thirty minutes. Just before removing the shank from
the freezer, using a small torch, we would heat the bore of the drill chuck
(not hot-hot, but maybe to about 100 deg.(F)). At this temperature you can
still hold the chuck in your hand. We would then remove the shank from the
freezer, and wipe off any frost that had accumulated on the tapered portion
of the shank. Put the two pieces together, and using a soft mallet, strike
the end of the shank. When both the shank and bore of the drill chuck
normalized to ambient temperature, you had a very tight fit. I have never
had a drill chuck come apart using this method.
In the case of a drill press, you could probably heat the chuck enough with
a heat gun or maybe a hair dryer, and use ice to reduce the size of the
drill press taper enough to obtain a good tight fit once they had both
normalized to ambient temperature. I realize this may sound like a rather
unconventional procedure but believe me it works.
Fred the Red Shirt
> >Meanwhile, can anyone tell me how I might put this chuck back
> >on the drill press? Is it simply a press fit,
>
> Yes it is. Clean both surfaces first. Unclean surfaces are
> your worst enemy here.
>
Do you want to lubericate the surfaces with a light oil too?
> I would go the *press fit* route first and use the drill
> press itself to seat the chuck. *Walloping* it with a
> hammer could scar the edges of the taper. You don't want
> that. After it is set you can go back and give it a couple
> of light thumps if it makes you feel better.
>
Always helps to adjust my attitude.
>
> It's called a Jacobs taper. ... By its very nature
> the Jacobs taper seats the chuck perfectly every time (2).
>
>
> (1) Some use a Morse taper though these are typically on
> metal working equipment.
>
Correct me if I am wrong, but by virtue of being a taper,
doesn't atmospheric pressure hold it together? When pressed
together the air is squeezed out from between the mating
surfaces. The atmospheric pressure is the same at both
ends, but since the lower end has more area than the upper
there is a net upward force on the inner taper.
BTW, my Craftsman drill press has a small allen bolt concentric
with the taper that is turned by reaching through the jaws of the
chuck with an allen wrench. I've seen that on morse tapers too,
though I bet a good machinist would consider such a feature
to be cheating.
--
FF
GTO69RA4
>metal working equipment.
Not quite correct. Nearly all DPs over a certain size (around 17", I've found.
Though better small ones do too) use both. The chuck mounts on the arbor with
a JT, then the arbor uses an MT to mate with the DP's spindle. Very, very
infrquently someone makes a chuck with a male MT turned right on it, but I
can't remember the last time I saw one of those.
Smaller or cheaper DPs (like most of the Sears models) just have a JT turned on
the spindle end.
For the original poster: Nearly every type of woodworking and metalworking
equipment made uses tapers to hold chucks/cutters/whatever on. JT, MT, R8, B&S,
etc. It gives you the most precise fit along with great strength and the
ability to (more or less) easily remove it. Chucks typically only come off if
there's damage, a poorly made part, or dirt/oil on the surfaces.
GTO(John)
George
guess I'd call it "cheap," except it centered first time, stays put under
side loads from milling and sanding, and has done so for over 20 years.
"GTO69RA4" <gto6...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030330124845...@mb-fd.aol.com...
Unisaw A100
>Do you want to lubericate the surfaces with a light oil too?
Nothing is said about it in the text. To tell you the truth
though I'd be willing to guess that you do not want anything
between the two surfaces. A lubricant can and will cause
two surfaces to sit apart from each other. After all,
that's the reason we have lubricants. Back to my argument,
you would not want a lubricant in there that may cause one
side to be off more than the other (1). The lubricant
therefore introduces an error that cannot be predicted.
>Correct me if I am wrong, but by virtue of being a taper,
>doesn't atmospheric pressure hold it together?
Actually, it's MoJo. Plenty of it and the good kind.
All kidding aside I think it's friction and which for all I
know could be extrapolated as atmospheric pressure (2). I
do know one thing, to make two mating surfaces that squeeze
out all the air, that's pretty tough.
>BTW, my Craftsman drill press has a small allen bolt concentric
>with the taper that is turned by reaching through the jaws of the
>chuck with an allen wrench. I've seen that on morse tapers too,
>though I bet a good machinist would consider such a feature
>to be cheating.
I suspect you might be right. I know that somewhere along
the line Rockwell went to a threaded means of holding their
works together. I suspect it may have been more economical
to use this feature than to employ more skilled labor.
(1) Yes we are talking about gazzilionths of an inch.
(2) I'm sure someone will chime in and correct us.
UA100
Rob Weaver
> Back in my old machinist days, an old toolmaker showed me a trick for
<snip> I have never had a drill chuck come apart using this method.
John - what you've described is what my Dad (who started out as an
apprentice machinist at the Naval Gun Factory in WW2) calls a *shrink
fit*.
FYI, they used the same process to reline the barrles of 16" guns - heat
the barrel in a vertical furnace for a day or so, thel slip it over the
brass barrel liner. A couple of days later, when the whole assembly had
cooled, there was no way to remove the liner except to cut it out with a
lathe - which my Dad also did when the barrels came back from battle for
refurbishing. He said those barrels would come in with the brass liner
extruded 18" beyond he end of hte barrel from the force of 16" shells
going through them several hundred times.
OBWW: the pillow blocks to keep the lathe boring bar from sagging were
made of lignum vitae.
All the best,
Rob Weaver
CW
has been for over 100 years. make sure both parts are extremly clean, put
the chuck back on the arbor, open it all the way , put a block of wood
against the face of it and whack it a couple of times. If the parts are
clean, you wn't have to hit it very hard for it to stay.
CW
CW
taper, both parts deform slightly. The socket expands and the plug
contracts. Since they are both trying to spring back to their orriginal
dimensions, geat force is applied between the two parts.
"Fred the Red Shirt" <fredf...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:ef427f7c.03033...@posting.google.com...
Roy Gordon
that air can't get in between the two pieces.
Roy
<Snip>
> >Correct me if I am wrong, but by virtue of being a taper,
> >doesn't atmospheric pressure hold it together?
>
> Actually, it's MoJo. Plenty of it and the good kind.
>
> All kidding aside I think it's friction and which for all I
> know could be extrapolated as atmospheric pressure (2).
<snip>
> UA100
Dr. Rev. Chuck, M.D. P.A.
>
> Actually, I think it's more like Jo-Blocks, They're so closely fitted
> that air can't get in between the two pieces.
>
> Roy
aka wrung blocks, so called because they're wrung together to
precisely add their thicknesses.
John S. DeBoo
> <snip>
>
> >No wonder some people call this brand Crapsman.
>
> Actually, the reason *some* people call it that is, they
> have no back bone and are easily led by mob rule. They like
> to broad brush entire lines because they *heard it from
> someone else* and can't make a determination of their own.
> Keep in mind, these are the same people (3) who help us
> elect our politicians. Scary, ehh?
VERY well said sir!
--
John S. DeBoo
jsd...@abq.com
Lawrence Wasserman
drill press. Go ahead and use the wallop method you described. Just
make sure it's clean & dry (no lube) first.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
lwas...@charm.net
Unisaw A100
>Mickey mouse or no, it is the standard way of attaching a chuck to a
>drill press. Go ahead and use the wallop method you described. Just
>make sure it's clean & dry (no lube) first.
Actually, no it's not the *standard* way. A mis-wallop can
cause damage or seat the chuck incorrectly.
This is America though and we are free to be stoopid so go
ahead and do it whatever way you choose. Just try and
preface your comments correctly to begin with.
UA100
Lawrence Wasserman
I didn't mean the wallop was standard, I meant the Jacobs taper was
standard! :)
Chris
> So, I'm drilling a hole with this Craftsman 13-inch drill press, and the
> drill bit gets stuck in the work momentarily. Next thing I know the entire
> chuck just falls off, loose, on the table.
*LOL*
I read this and thought "What a dope, all drill presses work this
way."
Now don't be insulted. "Dopiness" here is a function of ignorance,
not stupidity, and I found it funny because I once shared this
ignorance too. I was the same dope when I bought my first drill press
(also a Craftsman). I had to assemble mine and couldn't figure out
how the chuck was held in. The instructions said to just press it in
so I did. Then while talking to a friend the next day I complained
about the half-assed way that Craftsman holds its chucks in the drill
press. He laughed when he told me that they all work that way.
-Chris (laughing at *my* expense)
Unisaw A100
>I didn't mean the wallop was standard, I meant the Jacobs taper was
>standard! :)
Oops! I stand (sit) corrected, retract my rant and offer my
apologies.
UA100
Tom Baker
the information, everybody. The only other taper fits I was familiar with
are the Morse tapers on the head and tailstocks of my wood lathe, and
those can be separated by a few taps from a rod, and are supposed to be
temporary. A taper thatąs intended to resist separation is a new one on
me. Especially since the one in question didnąt. So, I pushed the chuck
back on the tapered shaft and whacked it a couple of times with a block of
wood, and so far itąs still on. If it comes off again Iąll try cleaning
the parts first, then force it on again.
It still seems to me like some sort of threaded arrangement would be
superior, especially if you WANT to take the chuck off. Letąs say the
chuck gets damaged and you want to replace it. What do you do then‹start
trying to beat it off with a hammer? Or try to fit a wheel-puller on it
somehow? Iąd rather use a wrench on threads, myself. If this taper-fit
method really is a hundred years old, maybe it should have been obsolete
by now. Oh well.
By the way, this Morse of taper fame, is he like Allen of the wrench,
Phillips of the screwdriver, and Jacobs of the chuck? Who were all these
people who got their names on tools? Is there a Tool Hall of Fame out
there somewhere where all of these heroes of the tool world are
immortalized?
Thanks again for the help with the drill press.
Tom
GTO69RA4
time with impact/pipe/strap wrenchs trying to get some stuck threaded chucks
off. My portable 13/16" drill uses a JT chuck.
There are little sets of wedges that go between the chuck and a shoulder that's
machined on the spindle. Squeeze them with a C-clamp. It pops right off. A
couple companies years ago had threaded collars on their DPs for doing that,
but it didn't catch on.
Nearly every stationary tool in the world uses some form of taper. A well-made,
well-cleaned, undamaged one is by no means temporary. I've talked to fellows
who bought 70-year-old machines with the original arbors or chucks on there.
GTO(John)
>It still seems to me like some sort of threaded arrangement would be
>superior, especially if you WANT to take the chuck off. Let¹s say the
>chuck gets damaged and you want to replace it. What do you do then‹start
>trying to beat it off with a hammer? Or try to fit a wheel-puller on it
>somehow? I¹d rather use a wrench on threads, myself. If this taper-fit
Fred the Red Shirt
While you are correct that there is no pressure differential is
there not a force differential? If the area of the bottom
base of the taper is A1 and the area of the top of the taper
is A2 and the pressure at both ends is P then the upward force
on the taper is P*(A1 - A2).
This assumes that the two tapers mate so closely that the mating
surfaces are sealed against atmospheric pressure.
Perhpas tapers are deliberately made less than that precise to
prevent them from cold welding together.
--
FF
Fred the Red Shirt
> to use any attachment that would apply sidewise pressure on the chuck. Like
> no routing or sanding...just drilling, I guess. Warns that the chuck can
> fall off and hurt someone.
>
Ah hah!
Maybe that is why mine has the concentric allen bolt. It has an
oscillating drum sander feature -- the bolt keeps the taper from
separating under side loading.
--
FF
Unisaw A100
>By the way, this Morse of taper fame, is he like Allen of the wrench,
>Phillips of the screwdriver, and Jacobs of the chuck? Who were all these
>people who got their names on tools? Is there a Tool Hall of Fame out
>there somewhere where all of these heroes of the tool world are
>immortalized?
I'm not sure if they were men or the companies that made
them. Another name to the list is Brown and Sharp.
And as long as we're on the *who's the guy that thoughta
that", there are Alessandro Volta, James Watt, Andre Marie
Ampere and George Simon Ohm. Some names that people can
freely bandy about (and on this forum a little liberally, if
you catch my drift) but probably don't know.
Ain't lernin' phun?
UA100
Charles Krug
> Tom Baker wrote:
>>By the way, this Morse of taper fame, is he like Allen of the wrench,
>>Phillips of the screwdriver, and Jacobs of the chuck? Who were all these
>>people who got their names on tools? Is there a Tool Hall of Fame out
>>there somewhere where all of these heroes of the tool world are
>>immortalized?
CHUCK! GET DOWN OFF OF THAT DRILL PRESS BEFORE YOU FALL!!!
*thud*
Chuck? You okay buddy? Chuck? Chuck? *calls 911*
Mike Hide
Spike9458
> Chuck who, and what on earth was he doing up on a drill press..........mjh
Is he alright???
:-)
Rob Stokes
Long day Charles?!
Too funny...
Rob
"Charles Krug" <cha...@pentek.com> wrote in message
news:slrnb8h2f1....@skinner.pentek.org...
> On Mon, 31 Mar 2003 17:54:20 GMT, Unisaw A100 <Unisa...@wi.rr.com>
wrote:
> > Tom Baker wrote:
> <snipped>
WebsterSteve
> Tom Baker wrote:
> >By the way, this Morse of taper fame, is he like Allen of the wrench,
> >Phillips of the screwdriver, and Jacobs of the chuck? Who were all these
> >people who got their names on tools? Is there a Tool Hall of Fame out
> >there somewhere where all of these heroes of the tool world are
> >immortalized?
>
> I'm not sure if they were men or the companies that made
> them. Another name to the list is Brown and Sharp.
>
> And as long as we're on the *who's the guy that thoughta
> that", there are Alessandro Volta, James Watt, Andre Marie
> Ampere and George Simon Ohm.
<snip>
Don't forget Jeffrey Delta, James Power & Michael Matic, Charles
Atlas, Lee Jet, Mike Kita, Ray O'Bee, Stan "The Man" Kraft, etc.
John-R W
> Don't forget Jeffrey Delta, James Power & Michael Matic, Charles
> Atlas, Lee Jet, Mike Kita, Ray O'Bee, Stan "The Man" Kraft, etc.
And Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor
Silvan
> Fred the Red Shirt wrote:
>>Do you want to lubericate the surfaces with a light oil too?
>
> Nothing is said about it in the text. To tell you the truth
> though I'd be willing to guess that you do not want anything
> between the two surfaces. A lubricant can and will cause
FWIW, my new Craftman drill press manual (just put that puppy together a
couple weeks ago; finally got a big drill press... wuhoo!!) says to clean
the inside of the chuck and the surface of the taper with "a non-petroleum
solvent such as mineral spirits or denatured alcohol." It's pretty clear
on the non-petroleum bit, so I'd say using oil there is definitely
contraindicated.
--
Michael McIntyre USDA zone 6b in SW VA, USA
Silvan <dmmc...@users.sourceforge.net> Linux Druid
----------[ registered Linux user #243621 ]---------
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/index.html
Silvan
> Though better small ones do too) use both. The chuck mounts on the arbor
> with a JT, then the arbor uses an MT to mate with the DP's spindle. Very,
FWIW, my new Craftsman 15" drill press has both, as you describe. I was a
bit surprised to see that. JT3 on one end, and MT something on the other,
I think.
Charlie Self
>
>FWIW, my new Craftman drill press manual (just put that puppy together a
>couple weeks ago; finally got a big drill press... wuhoo!!) says to clean
>the inside of the chuck and the surface of the taper with "a non-petroleum
>solvent such as mineral spirits or denatured alcohol." It's pretty clear
>on the non-petroleum bit, so I'd say using oil there is definitely
>contraindicated.
FWIW, my understanding has always been--first time I worked this out I was
about 19, working in a machine shop, and that was in '57--that you want a metal
to metal fit, and that oil does not allow that fit. I've currently got a
Palmgren 15" DP in my shop that I need to refit the chuck on because I was in a
rush and didn't clean the taper well enough (I probably dind't clean the socket
well enough either). Today will be warm enough, I believe, to get into that
unheated garage. March went out like a lion, so I stayed in the house
yesterday.
Charlie Self
"An honest man in politics shines more there than he would elsewhere."
- A Tramp Abroad
Jack Kerouac
"Unisaw A100" <Unisa...@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:g8ld8v03q061ftbki...@4ax.com...
> Tom Baker wrote:
> >Meanwhile, can anyone tell me how I might put this chuck back
> >on the drill press? Is it simply a press fit,
>
> Yes it is. Clean both surfaces first. Unclean surfaces are
> your worst enemy here.
>
> >and if so, should I just slip the chuck back onto the tapered shaft
> >and give it a couple of good wallops with a hammer? (through a
> >block of wood, of course).
>
> I would go the *press fit* route first and use the drill
> press itself to seat the chuck. *Walloping* it with a
> hammer could scar the edges of the taper. You don't want
> that. After it is set you can go back and give it a couple
> of light thumps if it makes you feel better.
>
> >And if so, what a mickey-mouse way to hold things together!
>
> It's called a Jacobs taper. Delta, Delta/Milwaukee,
> Delta/Rockwell, Walker-Turner, Buffalo, Jet, Wilton, Atlas,
> Boice-Crane and (insert name of everyone else that has made
> a drill press, and the list is a long one) have all used the
> Jacobs taper (1) quite successfully for decades. The next
> time you are near a bunch of drill presses look at the
> chucks. They will most likely all have a JT engraved onto
> them.
>
> If they used a straight shaft with a set screw it would be
> nearly impossible to hold any tolerance. My its very nature
> the Jacobs taper seats the chuck perfectly every time (2).
>
> >No wonder some people call this brand Crapsman.
>
> Actually, the reason *some* people call it that is, they
> have no back bone and are easily led by mob rule. They like
> to broad brush entire lines because they *heard it from
> someone else* and can't make a determination of their own.
> Keep in mind, these are the same people (3) who help us
> elect our politicians. Scary, ehh?
>
> (1) Some use a Morse taper though these are typically on
> metal working equipment.
>
> (2) This is of course contingent upon the fact that the
> taper was good to begin with.
>
> (3) Think about. The same people who watch Oprah, Jerry
> Springer and professional wrestling get to pull the lever
> just like you and me. It's a trade off for living in the
> Land of the Free.
>
> UA100
Nova
> And as long as we're on the *who's the guy that thoughta
> that", there are Alessandro Volta, James Watt, Andre Marie
> Ampere and George Simon Ohm. Some names that people can
> freely bandy about (and on this forum a little liberally, if
> you catch my drift) but probably don't know.
>
> Ain't lernin' phun?
>
> UA100
You left out Nikola Tesla. ;-)
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
Unisaw A100
>You left out Nikola Tesla. ;-)
The lozenge guy? ;-)
UA100
David Binkowski
If that subject line was intended to surprise anyone here, it didn't.
"Nova" <nova...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:3E8B7667...@verizon.net...
Larry Jaques
pixelated:
>Nova wrote:
>>You left out Nikola Tesla. ;-)
>
>The lozenge guy? ;-)
No, that's Rickola Testes. He's nuts about lozenges.
obww: lozenges are great for dusty throats after a
hard day in the shop. Or so I've heard.
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