Duncan Phyfe Stain
Steve
Does anyone have any recipies or suggestions for duplicating the
red-brown mahagony stain on reproduction Duncan Phyfe, Sheraton or
Chippendale pieces of the 40's to 50's. These pieces generally have a
sprayed gloss lacquer finish. It appears that the stain is sprayed on
as well. There seems to be some slight variation between manufacturers.
I have some Drexel pieces that appear a bit darker than some of my
no-name brands. I've looked at some of the more common hardware store
variety stains. They are not even close.
TIA
Steve J.
Larry Jaques
Steve <72361...@compuserve.com> wrote:
>Does anyone have any recipies or suggestions for duplicating the
>red-brown mahagony stain on reproduction Duncan Phyfe, Sheraton or
"Mahagony"? Is that a Bahstun accent I detect?
Strip and refinish with something like MinWax PolyShades.
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*Casey*
Hi,
you need a dark red mahogany stain, and then a bit of antiquing with a very
dark brown for the crevices, then a nice lacquer hand buffed to a satin
finish, and waxed.
Casey
Steve <72361...@compuserve.com> wrote in message
<34C847...@compuserve.com>...
>Does anyone have any recipies or suggestions for duplicating the
>red-brown mahagony stain on reproduction Duncan Phyfe, Sheraton or
GEORGII1
Are you ready for this one - set aside because I had someone else ask me the
same thing. Now, realize that the color is going to be harder to get because
the names have chaged - this information comes from a book with a copyright
around 1954. And, if you've used aniline colors - you know you might have to
play a bit with it - but it's worth it.
Here goes:
1/2 oz. Brown Mahogany water-soluble aniline
1/2 oz. Red Mahogany water-soluble aniline
1/4 oz. Nigrosene Black water-soluble aniline
Disolved in one quart hot water. Add more black for darker shade.
Use a slightly darker filler - author say a mahogany filler colored with
Vandyke Brown oil color and a little lampblack (probably can use black oil
color here).
Seal with orange shellac. Apply remaining top coats of shellac, lacquer, or
varnish.
This is just a rough draft from the book, but I'll bet it's real close to what
you want.
Jolyn
Paul T. Radovanic
Red is the first color to fade from UV rays, so the difference that you
see from one piece to the next might be due to its proximity to a
window, more so than original color.
Experiment with combinations of colors; dyes, stains, glazes and toners
until you get the color that you want. Make sure you check the color in
the same light as where the piece will be placed in sevice. Metamerism
sucks.
Paul
Jonathan Naranjo
Hi I like what you wrote im not writing much because im sleepe
Michael John Hide
Steve <72361...@compuserve.com> wrote:
>Does anyone have any recipies or suggestions for duplicating the
>red-brown mahagony stain on reproduction Duncan Phyfe, Sheraton or
>Chippendale pieces of the 40's to 50's. These pieces generally have a
>sprayed gloss lacquer finish. It appears that the stain is sprayed on
>as well. There seems to be some slight variation between manufacturers.
>I have some Drexel pieces that appear a bit darker than some of my
>no-name brands. I've looked at some of the more common hardware store
>variety stains. They are not even close.
>TIA
>Steve J.
Steve ,use a Mohawk "ultra" stain called" brown Mahogany ".It is a NGR
stain and is essentially non pigmented .
Try the stain on a piece of scrap prepared in a similar fashion to
what you intend on the finished piece .There will be some color
variations according to the wood you are using [i am talking within
the same species ].
if it turns out a little redder than you want add a little green stain
[universal color or ultra stain ] that will kill the red . mjh
Robert Klein
The Dark Red Mahogany Penetrating Oil Stain from Star Chemical Company
was the perfect match.
Since Mohawk bought Star I understand they did keep that color
although I do not know the order number. In my opinion all the Mohawk
mahogany colors were too orange for a good match prior to the buy out.
On Fri, 23 Jan 1998 01:33:32 -0600, Steve <72361...@compuserve.com>
wrote:
>Does anyone have any recipies or suggestions for duplicating the
>red-brown mahagony stain on reproduction Duncan Phyfe, Sheraton or
>Chippendale pieces of the 40's to 50's. These pieces generally have a
>sprayed gloss lacquer finish. It appears that the stain is sprayed on
>as well. There seems to be some slight variation between manufacturers.
>I have some Drexel pieces that appear a bit darker than some of my
>no-name brands. I've looked at some of the more common hardware store
>variety stains. They are not even close.
>TIA
>Steve J.
Regards,
Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
2500 North T Street
Pensacola, FL 32505 USA
suellen...@gmail.com
WOW! Mr. Robert Klein I visited your FB page and you really know your stuff! I have a Duncan Phyfe table that is a mess I'm going after with a vengeance. People tell me to give it up and throw it away. Your page gives me motivation. Can't wait to get started. :)
Dr. Deb
> Steve <72361...@compuserve.com> wrote:
>
> >Does anyone have any recipies or suggestions for duplicating the
> >red-brown mahagony stain on reproduction Duncan Phyfe, Sheraton or
>
>
> Strip and refinish with something like MinWax PolyShades.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> MAC: A computer for folks who can't master the two-button mouse.
> ----------------------------
> http://diversify.com/ljaques Graphic Design for Print & Websites
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------