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Plans for Craftsman Radial Arm Saw Table
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Randy McManus
Dec 1, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/1/98
to
I have an older Craftsman Radial arm saw.
The table for it is about to give out.
I hope that someone has come up with a good way of rebuilding this table
so that is interchangeable and you still have a way of leveling the
table to the saw.
Randy
foxeye
Dec 1, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/1/98
to
foxeye wrote:
The table on the saws are nothing more than particle board, and
readily available in any home depot or builders supply store. If you
can't find any 1" or greater, laminate or tack a piece of 1/4" ply or
tempered masonite to the 3/4 inch stuff, and make sure you keep any
brads used to hold the 1/4" top down out of the path of the usual saw
cuts. Usually this is not a problem if you use a littlecommon sense
when placing them. Keep your saw adjusted to keep from cutting any
deeper than the top 1/4 inch and when its worn, just replace the top
1/4" piece again. Tables are not hard to make, just use the old one
for a pattern. No special hardware if any at all is required.
foxeye
The table on the saws are nothing more than particle board, and
readily available in any home depot or builders supply store. If you
can't find any 1" or greater, laminate or tack a piece of 1/4" ply or
tempered masonite to the 3/4 inch stuff, and make sure you keep any
brads used to hold the 1/4" top down out of the path of the usual saw
cuts. Usually this is not a problem if you use a littlecommon sense
when placing them. Keep your saw adjusted to keep from cutting any
deeper than the top 1/4 inch and when its worn, just replace the top
1/4" piece again. Tables are not hard to make, just use the old one
for a pattern. No special hardware if any at all is required.
foxeye
The opinions expressed are mine, and mine alone.
My wife had no input whatsoever.Remove www from
email for correct address.
mr. Jones
Dec 1, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/1/98
to
Used 3/4 inch Birch ply for mine built a bench and extended the table to 8
feet.. Used the old table to get the hole pattern. Place the old table over
the new and drill though the holes enough to dimple the new table. I
eliminated the filler strip and moved the fence as far back as I could to
get a deeper cut.The fence is solid 3/4 x 2" inch birch screwed to the ply
edge and runs the full 8 foot length. Use a forstner bit (or in a pinch a 1
inch hole saw) to countersink. All the hardware you need is already on the
saw. The center adjustment is just a tee nut which can be easily removed
from the original table.
Randy McManus wrote in message <3663E5B3...@mindspring.com>...
feet.. Used the old table to get the hole pattern. Place the old table over
the new and drill though the holes enough to dimple the new table. I
eliminated the filler strip and moved the fence as far back as I could to
get a deeper cut.The fence is solid 3/4 x 2" inch birch screwed to the ply
edge and runs the full 8 foot length. Use a forstner bit (or in a pinch a 1
inch hole saw) to countersink. All the hardware you need is already on the
saw. The center adjustment is just a tee nut which can be easily removed
from the original table.
Randy McManus wrote in message <3663E5B3...@mindspring.com>...
Robert Steele
Dec 1, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/1/98
to Randy McManus
I threw away the particle board table shortly after I got my saw 20 years
ago. I built a torsion box type table and it has remained flat all these
years. It's basically a wood frame about an inch thick with 1/4'' ply
skins on the top and bottom. I placed wood blocks at the points where the
screws go through the table.
ago. I built a torsion box type table and it has remained flat all these
years. It's basically a wood frame about an inch thick with 1/4'' ply
skins on the top and bottom. I placed wood blocks at the points where the
screws go through the table.
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