Superglue to fill voids in walnut???

[Raymond Hearn]

John
Sounds ferasible, but be careful not to get any glue on the surface
you plan to finish, as it will seal the sood(if not sanded) off and
leave blotch marks in your finish.
OleRay

>I am making a writing desk from some walnut a friend milled with a
>chainsaw. The walnut has several knots and voids, all about the size
>of a new pencil eraser. I'm going to use a Sam Maloof-type poly/oil
>finish on the walnut, and a colleague recommended filling the voids with
>a medium thick grade of superglue. He said several "famous woodworkers"
>use superglue, and it works well for stablizing knots. I was planning
>on using stick lacquer, not because I prefer it but because I've never
>had to fill voids like these before and don't know of anything better to
>use.

>Does anyone have experience with using superglue, or can warn me one
>way or the other?

>Thanks much,
>John Wack

[John Wack]

[Bill Machrone]

Superglue is very handy for filling voids, but I wouldn't use it
alone. Instead, pack in some sawdust from the same piece of wood, then
put a drop or two of thin CA on it. It looks decent, is mostly wood,
and stays put. You might want to experiment with applying thin CA,
which sets almost instantly, to the sawdust vs. mixing sawdust with
medium CA (longer open time, not runny) and applying it with a
popsicle stick. Often with the thin stuff, you get more than you want
and it spreads farther than you want. In either case, use hobby store
CA, not the stuff that's branded Superglue in the little tubes. Brands
such as Super Jet and Zap are better quality.

- Bill

[Sam Finlay]

John Wack wrote:
>
> I am making a writing desk from some walnut a friend milled with a
> chainsaw. The walnut has several knots and voids, all about the size
> of a new pencil eraser. I'm going to use a Sam Maloof-type poly/oil
> finish on the walnut, and a colleague recommended filling the voids with
> a medium thick grade of superglue. He said several "famous woodworkers"
> use superglue, and it works well for stablizing knots. I was planning
> on using stick lacquer, not because I prefer it but because I've never
> had to fill voids like these before and don't know of anything better to
> use.
>
> Does anyone have experience with using superglue, or can warn me one
> way or the other?
>
> Thanks much,
> John Wack

John,
If you don't mind the look of knots, try this. Select a drill bit
slightly larger than the void you want to hide.Make a walnut dowel a hair
larger than the drill bit. Nothing fancy, whittle, drawknife etc. Drill
hole into the void. A drill guide may be handy here. No need to go deep,
1/4 or 1/2 " will do. Use any glue you choose. Dark wood glue would be
nice. Glue the dowels in the holes you made. Let dry & then carefully
saw/chisel off the excess. Sand & finish to taste. If you make the dowels
from the end grain of a board it will look almost exactly like a real
knot. I have made the glue/sawdust repairs (w/ epoxy) & they still show
too much for my taste. I also fixed some nail & open knot holes this way
( w/ dowels ) & they turned out just fine.
Sam

[John Ducote]

On Wed, 16 Oct 1996, Raymond Hearn wrote:

> John
> Sounds ferasible, but be careful not to get any glue on the surface
> you plan to finish, as it will seal the sood(if not sanded) off and
> leave blotch marks in your finish.

> >a medium thick grade of superglue. He said several "famous woodworkers"

> >use superglue, and it works well for stablizing knots. I was planning
>

> >Does anyone have experience with using superglue, or can warn me one
> >way or the other?

The stuff you're looking for is called Cyanoacrylate glue. It _is_ what
superglue is made of, but you'll pay through the nose if you buy regular
superglue because you'll likely need quite a bit.

If your local woodworking store doesn't carry it, try a model/hobby shop.
A popular modelers brand is the "Zap-a-Gap" line. They have several
different consistencies and weights, from very thin/runny, to almost
gel. You can also buy, and I recommend that you do, an accelerator. The
accelerator, "Kicker" is a common brand, will instantaneously harden CA
glue. If you buy the thinnest you can find, it will run all over the
place. But once you spray it, it's hard as glass. Of course, CA glue will
harden by itself too.

By using CA and Kicker, you can fill ALMOST any hole or gap.
WARNING: The fumes are VERY nasty.
WARNING2: Experiment with scrap first. When you spray the Kicker on the CA
sometimes it will bubble & turn white. I don't know what causes it
to do this, but I suspect it has to do with various amounts of
each "chemical" in the reaction. It also gets warm when you Kick it,
but I doubt its enough to do any damage to the wood.

Good luck,
john

[Jeffrey L. Suits]

The walnut has several knots and voids, all about the size
>>of a new pencil eraser.

>>Does anyone have experience with using superglue, or can warn me one
>>way or the other?

>>Thanks much,
>>John Wack

I would suggest epoxy as a better alternative; superglue will move
through the wood by capillary action.

Jeffrey

[Dee Smith]

John,

Something I have done on some of my wood turnings is to pack
the hole with brass fillings and then use thin superglue to hold
it in place. You can get the fillings at any place that makes
keys. If you can sift them to get the finer stuff it will look
better. Also make the filings stand a little proud of the
surface so that you can sand it down for a smooth surface. You
may want to experiment first. The brass can lend a nice touch
to the walnut.

I have seen some people route out cracks with very small bits
in a Dremal tool and then fill with brass filings. Any material
can be used if it is fine enough.

Dee

John Wack wrote:
>
> I am making a writing desk from some walnut a friend milled with a
> chainsaw. The walnut has several knots and voids, all about the size
> of a new pencil eraser. I'm going to use a Sam Maloof-type poly/oil
> finish on the walnut, and a colleague recommended filling the voids with

> a medium thick grade of superglue. He said several "famous woodworkers"
> use superglue, and it works well for stablizing knots. I was planning

> on using stick lacquer, not because I prefer it but because I've never
> had to fill voids like these before and don't know of anything better to
> use.
>

> Does anyone have experience with using superglue, or can warn me one
> way or the other?
>
> Thanks much,
> John Wack

--
Dee Smith
Software Server Integration Test
IBM Austin, Tx

[John Ducote]

On Fri, 18 Oct 1996, Alan Ratcliffe wrote:
> I am a luthier who often has to use cyanoacrylate glues to fill
> blemishes/damage to finishes in guitars. DO NOT use an accelerator, as
> this will make the glue cure cloudy - not good for a clear finish.
> Apply a relatively small amount at a time and allow to cure, This will
> avoid pitting.

I've had this happen as well, but never consistently enough to bet on.
But I agree, it's probably not safe under a clear finish.
-jsd

[Alan Ratcliffe]

John Ducote <j...@nospam.phoenix.net> wrote:

>On Wed, 16 Oct 1996, Raymond Hearn wrote:
>
>> John
>> Sounds ferasible, but be careful not to get any glue on the surface
>> you plan to finish, as it will seal the sood(if not sanded) off and
>> leave blotch marks in your finish.
>

>> >a medium thick grade of superglue. He said several "famous woodworkers"
>> >use superglue, and it works well for stablizing knots. I was planning
>>

>> >Does anyone have experience with using superglue, or can warn me one
>> >way or the other?
>

>The stuff you're looking for is called Cyanoacrylate glue. It _is_ what
>superglue is made of, but you'll pay through the nose if you buy regular
>superglue because you'll likely need quite a bit.
>
>If your local woodworking store doesn't carry it, try a model/hobby shop.
>A popular modelers brand is the "Zap-a-Gap" line. They have several
>different consistencies and weights, from very thin/runny, to almost
>gel. You can also buy, and I recommend that you do, an accelerator. The
>accelerator, "Kicker" is a common brand, will instantaneously harden CA
>glue. If you buy the thinnest you can find, it will run all over the
>place. But once you spray it, it's hard as glass. Of course, CA glue will
>harden by itself too.
>
>By using CA and Kicker, you can fill ALMOST any hole or gap.
>WARNING: The fumes are VERY nasty.
>WARNING2: Experiment with scrap first. When you spray the Kicker on the CA
> sometimes it will bubble & turn white. I don't know what causes it
> to do this, but I suspect it has to do with various amounts of
> each "chemical" in the reaction. It also gets warm when you Kick it,
> but I doubt its enough to do any damage to the wood.
>
>Good luck,
>john

Hi all

I am a luthier who often has to use cyanoacrylate glues to fill
blemishes/damage to finishes in guitars. DO NOT use an accelerator, as
this will make the glue cure cloudy - not good for a clear finish.
Apply a relatively small amount at a time and allow to cure, This will
avoid pitting.

As for brand - Only one that I have encountered is acceptable for high
quality work - Hotstuff, available from a model shop or Stewart
Macdonalds guitar shop supply.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Alan Ratcliffe - Drum/guitar repair guy, Cape Town, South Africa Email: stra...@gem.co.za
Visit the Armed Populous Website at: http://members.gem.co.za/~stratrat/populous.
Or the Mega Music Link List at:
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"Today's subliminal thought is: "

[Steve Rimar]

>>a medium thick grade of superglue. He said several "famous woodworkers"
>>use superglue, and it works well for stablizing knots. I was planning

>>on using stick lacquer, not because I prefer it but because I've never
>>had to fill voids like these before and don't know of anything better to
>>use.
>

>>Does anyone have experience with using superglue, or can warn me one
>>way or the other?
>

>>Thanks much,
>>John Wack
>
>
>




I have seen one of the TV woodworkers using the "superglue" mixed with the
sawdust of the wood that was going to be filled. He used 220 grit sandpaper
and saved the the sawdust and mixed it with the "superglue". He was also using
walnut.


STEVE RIMAR

d1...@vm1.cc.uakron.edu


all comments are my own
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

[Charles Lyddane]

On 16 Oct 1996 18:00:26 GMT, wa...@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
wrote:

>I am making a writing desk from some walnut a friend milled with a
>chainsaw. The walnut has several knots and voids, all about the size
>of a new pencil eraser. I'm going to use a Sam Maloof-type poly/oil
>finish on the walnut, and a colleague recommended filling the voids with

>a medium thick grade of superglue. He said several "famous woodworkers"
>use superglue, and it works well for stablizing knots. I was planning
>on using stick lacquer, not because I prefer it but because I've never
>had to fill voids like these before and don't know of anything better to
>use.
>
>Does anyone have experience with using superglue, or can warn me one
>way or the other?
>
>Thanks much,
>John Wack
>

Like many other things try it on a scrap. I've used epoxy and sanding
dust as a filler before and it works okay but you might not get the
color you want, and the adhesion of the finish might be a problem. If
in doubt, try it on a scrap

[Steve knight]

wa...@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack) wrote:

>I am making a writing desk from some walnut a friend milled with a
>chainsaw. The walnut has several knots and voids, all about the size
>of a new pencil eraser. I'm going to use a Sam Maloof-type poly/oil
>finish on the walnut, and a colleague recommended filling the voids with
>a medium thick grade of superglue. He said several "famous woodworkers"
>use superglue, and it works well for stablizing knots. I was planning
>on using stick lacquer, not because I prefer it but because I've never
>had to fill voids like these before and don't know of anything better to
>use.
>

I use epoxy or fiberglass resin. It is thicker and you can sand it
easier and it is clear.

"Tools are made to be used and great tools are made to be used by great craftsmen"

[Robert Klein]

I would suggest making a paste of hide glue and sawdust to put in the
voids.

The previous suggestion about drilling the voids and putting in dowell
ends works well too. For varience, I drill the holes at different
angles. It looks more like a knot then.

Or just fill them with colored wax. It doesn't look like a knot but it
is quick.

good luck.
=============================

In article <5437rq$t...@dove.nist.gov>, wa...@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov says...

>
>I am making a writing desk from some walnut a friend milled with a
>chainsaw. The walnut has several knots and voids, all about the size
>of a new pencil eraser. I'm going to use a Sam Maloof-type poly/oil
>finish on the walnut, and a colleague recommended filling the voids
with
>a medium thick grade of superglue. He said several "famous
woodworkers"
>use superglue, and it works well for stablizing knots. I was planning
>on using stick lacquer, not because I prefer it but because I've never
>had to fill voids like these before and don't know of anything better
to
>use.
>

>Does anyone have experience with using superglue, or can warn me one
>way or the other?
>
>Thanks much,
>John Wack
>

--
Regards,
Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
2500 North T Street
Pensacola, Fl. 32505
USA
904-432-3203

[Dave Mundt]

Greetings and Salutations from the Dweller In the Citystate of the
Vincible Overlord!

I have had good luck using such a superglue/wood dust mixture for
filling voids. I also have used lacquer or shellac for the
binder....and in some cases, plain, old, yellow carpenter's glue,
although I cant say I am REAL proud of the last item. It was under
paint, though, not a transparent finish, so worked well enough.
When patching with sawdust, and superglue, though, I prefer the liquid
variety. I pack the void tightly with sawdust, then flow the glue
into it. I then pack more sawdust on top, until I have a slight
mound. After letting it set up a while (usually overnight), i can
take it down flush with the surface with my orbital sander, and it
looks fine.
If I am filling LARGE holes, I will usually cut a patch out of
matching wood, and use the thicker, gel-type superglue to put it in
place.
Respectfully
Dave