Vibration in drill press
denis pelletier
It is a 10 in. bench size which I have bolted to a 2x4 stand. The stand
is anchored to my garage wall studs at the top and rest on the wall
plate at the bottom. It is stable and the drill is level.
I have adjusted the pulleys to make sure they are even with each other
and level on both axes. I have hand tightened the belt to the specified
tension. I have levelled the motor. I can feel some vibration in the
motor itself but don't know what I could do about it other than what I
have done.
There is enough vibration that the drill bits create a slightly larger
hole than the bit size. All suggestions welcome (other than those
involving body cavities or bodily fluids)
Leon
belt is most likely the problem. May I suggest replacing with a link belt.
"denis pelletier" <denis.pe...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3AEAF21F...@sympatico.ca...
denis pelletier
speed. I will try the link belt. thanks.
Denis
Gary Roth
with machined pulleys if you don't already have them. Also remove the belt
and rotate the shaft by hand, any roughness or looseness probably means you
need new bearings, with the belt still removed check the motor shaft to
insure its not bent and the motor bearings are good and check the pulleys to
insure that their tight and have no wobbel. if its fixable it should be one
of these items. Good luck, Gary
CW
spindle and chuck. If this is the typical bench top drill press, a sloppy
chuck would not be unusual. Excessive run out will cause holes to be larger
than they should be and will cause vibration particularly at the (to fast)
speeds that woodworkers run their drill presses. Vibration in the rest of
the machine, unless truly severe, will have little effect on hole size.
--
CW
KC7NOD
"Gary Roth" <g-rot...@foxinternet.com> wrote in message
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John Milton
motor & 1st pulley are contributing.
Grasp the chuck and attempt to move side to side, any perceptible movement
suspect the need for new bearings, or poor quality machining in the quill
assembly.
Get a dial indicator and check for "runout" on the chuck, remove the chuck
from the arbour and check for runout on the arbour, if none reseat the
chuck, if some remove and reseat the arbour in the quill.
Is this a new problem or has it allways been this way? if new did it happen
all of a sudden or get worse over time, what has changed on the machine if
this is a new problem?
denis pelletier <denis.pe...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
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geoff
ive dun the same with my lathe and its runs quiter and stopped vibrating
geoff
Preston Andreas
remove the pulley and run the motor by itself. If it still vibrates, it is
the motor. At the cost of that motor, it wouldn't pay to balance it. It
will have to be replaced. If it doesn't vibrate, it is the pulley. Cast
pulleys can easily be out of balance and/or out of round. Replace the
pulleys with machined pulleys. If that isn't it, try a link belt.
Of course, the quill and chuck may have excessive runout also. And that
assumes the bearings are in good shape.
Preston
--
pand...@texas.net
John Milton <john....@hwcn.org> wrote in message
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mrf...@1sow.net
<denis.pe...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
I had the same problem.
Here's what worked for me.
On close inspection I noticed that the motor(unlike me) is not well
hung. Two steel bars at the top of the motor mount act as a pivot for
any out of balance weight in the motor and or belts.
The trick was to stabilize the bottom half of the motor.
1.Cut a rectangle of hardwood or uhmw plastic thicker than the max
space between the back of the drill press casting and the motor
2.Drill a hole large enough for a 3/8" threaded rod in the middle
along the long axis.
3.Cut the material diagonally end to end.
4.Put 2 nuts(metal)and a washer on one end of your threaded rod(If it
hurts you 'er doing it wrong). On to this slip on one piece of your
material, big end first. Slide this bit between the casting and
motor.Next slip on the other piece of materiel small end first
followed by a washer and a wing nut. Tighten until it it's right.
Link belt is also a great idea.
Rob McConachie
I just finished a rebuild on my ancient drill press. It is a 10" benchtop
model craftsman 103.xxxx something or other. Anyway, it was having a bad
"clunk, clunk, clunk" sound when the pully went around. Plus the drill bits
wont cut straight (they wobble). What I ended up doing was when I took the
thing apart, I tested the motor and found that it spun perfectly and for a
long time. Which lead me to the drill press side. I turned the pulley by
hand and the clunk was there. From there, I removed the pulley (and all the
rest of the guts of the press) and found that the washer that the pulley
rides on had worn down over time and was not doing its job. I had to use a
dremel tool (with a rough grit to grind it and then the smoothest grit
wheel) to polish and "de-burr" the inside of the pulley where it was
clunking on the top of the press body. After I did that, I made a new
washer out of plastic (as I suspect my wife would not apprecite me making
one out of asbestos), then I liberally greased it and reassembled the whole
thing and the clunking was gone.
I still have a problem with chuck runout but I suspect that i will have to
replace the chuck if I can not realign the quill assembly, I may have to
replace it. But, the cleaning up of the *inside* of the pulley, resolved a
lot of the problems. Plus, while I had it apart, I regreased everything
with white (lithium speedomoeter) grease and it runs much more smoothly ther
and much quieter. Once I have the chuck repaired or replaced, it should
resolve all the problems I am having with the drill press.
Good luck.
Rob
denis pelletier <denis.pe...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3AEAF21F...@sympatico.ca...
riemer faber
really well and run nice and cool!
I would suspect that one or more of your pulleys might be "out of whack"
and not running true. I had that problem on a cheap table saw once and
ended up giving it away!
failing that your chuck may not be set true, and instead of spinning
true it has a bit of a stirring motion. check to see if there is any run
out with the drill bit ( again a dial indicator works really well and
they are not all that much) good luck!
Riemer