Hardened Chainsaw Chain?
Tom...@webtv.net
professional or commercial grade? Any help or links appreciated.
Thanks. Tom.
John McGaw
crystals of cabide embedded or full-out carbide-tipped chain in standard
big-saw pitches but not for small-pitch home saws. Or they will make the
loops for you if you wish.
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John McGaw
Knoxville, TN, USA
http://johnmcgaw.com
<Tom...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:14712-3CD...@storefull-2136.public.lawson.webtv.net...
Joe Gorman
> professional or commercial grade? Any help or links appreciated.
> Thanks. Tom.
TCT Pacific Chain & Tool Co.
PO Box 33, Bilpin, NSW 2758
Ph: (02) 4567 1265, 1800 1800 38 Fax: (02) 4567 13658
Email: tree...@hawknet.com.au
Contact: Phil or Helen Heaton
Supply Silvey chain & bar grinders, tree jacks, bars, files,
communication headsets.
Comprehensive range of Tungsten carbide chainsaw chain.
Joe
Apeman
alive...no anti-kickback pawls...
Brian Combs
when you hit that nail, bullet, rock, dirt or just because it wants to.
brian
Kruppt
2136.public.lawson.webtv.net:
> Does anyone know if there is a supplier for hardened chain? Possibly
> professional or commercial grade? Any help or links appreciated.
> Thanks. Tom.
>
Tim Douglass
They sell diamond stones for power sharpeners to do this chain. Don't
even think you're going to do it by hand.
Tim Douglass
Tim Douglass
wrote:
>Be extra careful with the pro-grade chain....it will eat you
>alive...no anti-kickback pawls...
Anti-kickback pawls are, IMO, way overrated. If you watch the upper
quadrant of the tip of the bar you shouldn't have any trouble - if you
don't watch it you will - even with the modern "safety chain" that
limits your cut to about a 64th per tooth, making it take forever to
grind through any size log. I usually take the rakers and the
anti-kickback teeth down quite a bit with a file to get a more
aggressive chain. But I've also run a chainsaw a *lot* and have scared
the piss out of myself enough times to respect the tool and know my
limitations. The average guy who uses a chainsaw a couple times a year
to cut a pickup load of wood should probably view all this
differently.
Tim Douglass
Mesut Şahin
https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/topic/35198-easy-wood-carbide-tools/?tab=comments#comment-267218
John Grossbohlin
şunları yazdı:
> On 9 May 2002 18:23:37 -0700, tarzanth...@earthlink.net (Apeman)
> wrote:
> >Be extra careful with the pro-grade chain....it will eat you
> >alive...no anti-kickback pawls...
> Anti-kickback pawls are, IMO, way overrated. If you watch the upper
> quadrant of the tip of the bar you shouldn't have any trouble - if you
> don't watch it you will - even with the modern "safety chain" that
> limits your cut to about a 64th per tooth, making it take forever to
> grind through any size log. I usually take the rakers and the
> anti-kickback teeth down quite a bit with a file to get a more
> aggressive chain. But I've also run a chainsaw a *lot* and have scared
> the piss out of myself enough times to respect the tool and know my
> limitations. The average guy who uses a chainsaw a couple times a year
> to cut a pickup load of wood should probably view all this
> differently.
> Tim Douglass
> http://www.ida.net/users/tdouglss/
views this differently... adds lots of salt. ;~)
Too many saw, chain, skill, training and use variables are left out of this
narrative to make any good decisions based on it...
For instance: Take on a 28" dead but sound white oak. Run, say a 50 CC
consumer or farm/ranch saw (3.25-3.5 HP class) with an 18" bar. Run a full
house Stihl Rapid Super chain with the rakers cut down "quite a bit" and
you'll likely stall the saw in the kerf... The chain would be too aggressive
for a physically hard wood when the bar is buried in the log... Such a
chain run on a bigger saw, say a Stihl MS461 (about 6 HP) may grab like
crazy in that oak log but work just fine with the rakers filed to proper
depth using a gauge.
Me, I run 4 HP and 6 HP pro-saws with Stihl Rapid Super chains and I file
the rakers for the target wood using a gauge. For example, the Husky raker
gauge lets you choose hard or soft wood raker depths. If I know I'm going to
be in a bunch of pine, cedar, or hemlock for at least a couple chain
sharpenings I'll run the rakers lower. Most of the time I'm in mixed
hardwoods... maple, oak, ash, cherry, mulberry, walnut, hickory, etc. with
the occasional softwood, so I file for hardwoods. At that, there are times
when dead dry hardwoods are like iron and saw slowly even with a freshly and
properly filed chain.
Anyhow... all that said, the low kick back chains are not a bad way to go.
They are generally safer to use and are more forgiving of those who lose
track of the upper quadrant of the bar nose.... For example, kick backs can
happen when you are clearing leaf covered storm damage or cutting firewood
from piles of logs and the upper quadrant hits something. Those chains might
save a guy with an older saw that lacks any anti kick back features a nasty
scar.... Years ago my uncle had a kick back that came up and hit the bill of
his ball cap (nobody wore hearing or eye protection, forestry helmets, or
chaps back then). Fortunately the visor folded down and kept the saw off his
face... except for his nose. The end of his nose was chewed off... even
after plastic surgery it is apparent that the end of his nose was chewed up.