WhiteWood at HomeDepot ???
Blake Streeter
out of Middle grade Plywood.. I'm on a limited budget but I've got
the bug.. I can't Stop.. I want to move on to bigger and better
things but I can't afford Red Oak, Cherry, Etc... Plus I don't have
anywhere close by that supplies these kinds of wood.. Poplar is
still a little too expensive for me So I'm looking at making my next
project, A Wardrobe I designed for my Girlfriend, out of "Whitewood"
from HomeDepot.. My best guess is that it is really Spruce, Rough
carpenter wood, But I made a few small things with it, (Dart Board case,
Corner cabnit, and They turned out fine... Is there something I'm
missing?? Will my projects fall apart?? Will the Wood shrink drastically
becasue it was not dried correctly ? I know it would not be anyones first
choice of wood but is it totally out of the question for furniture?
The Wardrobe is fairly big 80" high by 60" long by 23" deep so it will
still cost me over $200 with cheap wood but it would be over $1000 with
the expensive stuff that I've seen the prices for.. What do you think?
Blake Streeter
Rich Haubert
>From: bl...@cs.fit.edu (Blake Streeter)
>Subject: WhiteWood at HomeDepot ???
>Date: Thu, 19 Jan 1995 20:14:49 GMT
> I am somewhat new to woodworking.. I've built a couple things
>out of Middle grade Plywood.. I'm on a limited budget but I've got
>the bug.. I can't Stop.. I want to move on to bigger and better
>things but I can't afford Red Oak, Cherry, Etc... Plus I don't have
>anywhere close by that supplies these kinds of wood.. Poplar is
>still a little too expensive for me So I'm looking at making my next
>project, A Wardrobe I designed for my Girlfriend, out of "Whitewood"
>from HomeDepot.. My best guess is that it is really Spruce, Rough
>carpenter wood, But I made a few small things with it, (Dart Board case,
>Corner cabnit, and They turned out fine... Is there something I'm
>missing?? Will my projects fall apart?? Will the Wood shrink drastically
>becasue it was not dried correctly ? I know it would not be anyones first
>choice of wood but is it totally out of the question for furniture?
Blake, so-called 'whitewood' is either pine, spruce, or fir. Quality varies
widely. I have made projects out of this wood, but not anything I considered
important. The biggest problems with it are 1) pieces are low-quality ie they
are warped, cupped, and tend to have a LOT of knots. Small, tight knots are
fine (in fact, they add character to an otherwise bland wood); however,
large, loose knots are bad news. 2) Like all construction grade lumber, it is
not dried enough. Even if it is stamped 'kiln-dried', they take it out of the
kiln well before it's dried down to the equilibrium humidity level that it
will eventually reach. So, after you buy it, it will continue to dry (and
shrink), and maybe even warp even more.
I did recently make a large panel out of this wood, but I first let it dry a
couple weeks, and then resurfaced it on my jointer. The result is down to
about 21/32" thick, but is flat and fairly attractive, in a country sort of
way.
>The Wardrobe is fairly big 80" high by 60" long by 23" deep
so it will >still cost me over $200 with cheap wood but it would be over $1000
with>the expensive stuff that I've seen the prices for.. What do you think?
It's true that good hardwood is getting very expensive. A large project like
the one you propose would indeed be a lot of money; however your ratio of
five to one seems inaccurate to me. In my area, even this low-grade whitewood
gets about $1.20 per board foot (equal to square foot in 3/4" surfaced
lumber), versus about $3 for red oak, also surfaced to 3/4". And this is
select (knot-free or virtually knot free). If you're willing to have a few
knots (still much less than with 'whitewood'), you could down to about $2.20.
But, more importantly, I wouldn't recommend a novice tackle a project this
size. The huge panels you propose are difficult to make - very difficult
without a jointer or skill with a hand plane. If you do decide on this large
of a project, I would recommend using birch 3/4" plywood. It's stable, flat,
attractive, and you don't have to glue up those large panels. It costs about
the same as solid whitewood, just over a buck per square foot. Finish up the
ends with solid birch or other similar hardwood. These would be legitimate
materials for a decent piece of furniture.
Good Luck!
Rich
>Blake
Streeter
Chris Lewis
Rich Haubert <hau...@mbi.org> wrote:
>In article <D2o5K...@zeno.fit.edu> bl...@cs.fit.edu (Blake Streeter) writes:
>
>> I am somewhat new to woodworking.. I've built a couple things
>>out of Middle grade Plywood.. I'm on a limited budget but I've got
>>the bug.. I can't Stop.. I want to move on to bigger and better
>>things but I can't afford Red Oak, Cherry, Etc... Plus I don't have
>>anywhere close by that supplies these kinds of wood.. Poplar is
>>... Will my projects fall apart?? Will the Wood shrink drastically
>>becasue it was not dried correctly ? I know it would not be anyones first
>>choice of wood but is it totally out of the question for furniture?
>Blake, so-called 'whitewood' is either pine, spruce, or fir. Quality varies
>widely.
Actually, in most places "whitewood" _is_ poplar. Poplar is usually stable,
takes paint well, and is available in relatively large sizes without knots.
Clear poplar is usually considerably cheaper than clear pine or even "furniture"
pine (a more common furniture wood), and spruce or is rarely available in quality
high enough for furniture except on the left coast.
Poplar isn't particularly hard, and is easy to work with. In "finer" furniture,
poplar is often used as "secondary wood" - internal parts etc. It's also one
of the better woods for exterior painted trim. Especially screen doors.
I like working with poplar because it works so well. It's three drawbacks are
that it's boring, not hard, and doesn't stain worth a damn. Some grades of the
stuff have greenish streaks (a giveaway for poplar), and are variable colour.
>>The Wardrobe is fairly big 80" high by 60" long by 23" deep
>so it will >still cost me over $200 with cheap wood but it would be over $1000
>with>the expensive stuff that I've seen the prices for.. What do you think?
>But, more importantly, I wouldn't recommend a novice tackle a project this
>size. The huge panels you propose are difficult to make - very difficult
>without a jointer or skill with a hand plane. If you do decide on this large
>of a project, I would recommend using birch 3/4" plywood. It's stable, flat,
>attractive, and you don't have to glue up those large panels. It costs about
>the same as solid whitewood, just over a buck per square foot. Finish up the
>ends with solid birch or other similar hardwood. These would be legitimate
>materials for a decent piece of furniture.
I do agree. Plywood or MDF laminate is a better choice for the panels here.
You have your choice of hardwood veneer. Indeed, if you design it properly,
and rely on plywood for the majority of the "real estate" with "real wood"
for the corners and edgings, you may be able to build your wardrobe out of
oak or cherry, but not have it cost that much more than out of cheaper woods.
Ie: build the panels out of plywood with hardwood rails and stiles.
--
Chris Lewis: _Una confibula non sat est_
Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Latest psroff: FTP://ftp.uunet.ca/distrib/chris_lewis/psroff3.0pl17/*
Latest hp2pbm: FTP://ftp.uunet.ca/distrib/chris_lewis/hp2pbm/*
rm...@biivax.dp.beckman.com
[snip]
> So I'm looking at making my next
> project, A Wardrobe I designed for my Girlfriend, out of "Whitewood"
> from HomeDepot..
[snip]
> Is there something I'm
> missing?? Will my projects fall apart?? Will the Wood shrink drastically
> becasue it was not dried correctly ? I know it would not be anyones first
> choice of wood but is it totally out of the question for furniture?
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I've used a lot of H.D. "white wood" over the years and it works just fine.
Be careful to select boards that are not cupped or warped. Talk to some one
at H.D. and find out when they'er getting there next shippment in. If you
go shopping on the day they restock the racks you can find some nice boards.
From what I've seen oak plywood is still cheeper than "white wood". Perhaps
you might consider building the cabnet from it (luan ply is about 1/2 the
price of oak and looks very good too).
Ron
jay.we...@chrysalis.org
Blake> I'm on a limited budget but I've got the bug.. I can't Stop.. I
Blake> want to move on to bigger and better things but I can't afford
Blake> Red Oak, Cherry, Etc... Plus I don't have anywhere close by that
Blake> supplies these kinds of wood.. Poplar is stl a little too
Blake> expensive for me So I'm looking at making my next project, A
Blake> Wardrobe I designed for my Girlfriend, out of "Whitewood"
I think you will soon learn, Blake, that the materials cost of a project is NOT
the place to scrimp and save money on. Buy good materials and the items you
make will be around for a long time.
Vince Miller
>From: jay.we...@chrysalis.org
>Subject: RE: WhiteWood at HomeDepot ???
>Date: Tue, 24 Jan 95 08:24:55
Also, keep in mind that Home Depot is prob not the cheepest source for
lumber (it may be for power tools though). Look for little lumber mills or
garage dealers in your area (it may take a while, ask around).
Also, whitewood stuff is usually only kiln dried to %18 or so, since it's
intended for construction use, not interior, furnature use. My father built
some cabinets out of it and a year later there is a 5/8 gap between the
doors. I used it to make a small chest recently, according to formulas in
Hoadley, I had to allow an extra 3/8+ on the lid for eventual shrinkage.
This could really lead to some regrets if you put in the amount of work that
your project will require. You could plan for it, but its alot more complex
than a chest lid.
Good luck,
Vince
Tom Ellis
>Actually, in most places "whitewood" _is_ poplar. Poplar is usually stable,
>takes paint well, and is available in relatively large sizes without knots.
>Clear poplar is usually considerably cheaper than clear pine or even "furniture"
>pine (a more common furniture wood), and spruce or is rarely available in quality
>high enough for furniture except on the left coast.
Here in the midwest, whitewood is definitely *not* poplar. The term
simply lets a lumber yard sell different common #2 varieties under one
name. Buy the same "whitewood" at different times from the same yard
and you can't count on consistency from one purchase to the next.
--
Tom Ellis Life is a barbie doll beyond my ken.
*** Personal post...speaking only for myself ***
Jim Oitzinger
> Also, keep in mind that Home Depot is prob not the cheepest source for
> lumber (it may be for power tools though).
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>>>
Ever look at the mail order adds in any of the woodworking mags?
Jim O. oit...@sccsi.com(Jim Oitzinger)
"Mmm, neandertal, finger lick'g good."
Brian Yuen
(Jim Oitzinger) writes:
>> vincent.j...@nd.edu (Vince Miller) writes:
>> Also, keep in mind that Home Depot is prob not the cheepest source for
>> lumber (it may be for power tools though).
>> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> Ever look at the mail order adds in any of the woodworking mags?
Actually, they (Home Depot) sometimes do have good prices on power tools.
Have *you* compared them lately? The Porter-Calbe 7549 jigsaw is $129 there.
International Tools has it for $134. They also carry the DeWalt 421 ROS
for $77; ITC & Tool Crib both have it for $79.
Perhaps your Home Depot charges more?
Brian
Kent Fitzgerald (GD 1994)
: > vincent.j...@nd.edu (Vince Miller) writes:
: > Also, keep in mind that Home Depot is prob not the cheepest source for
: > lumber (it may be for power tools though).
: > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
: Ever look at the mail order adds in any of the woodworking mags?
In my experience, HD is almost always cheaper than the best mail order price.
--
Kent Fitzgerald kent...@minerva.cis.yale.edu
Department of Psychology, Yale University
Victor Kan
> In article <3geb7o$q...@tattoo.sccsi.com> oit...@pop.sccsi.com
> (Jim Oitzinger) writes:
>>> vincent.j...@nd.edu (Vince Miller) writes: Also, keep in
>>> mind that Home Depot is prob not the cheepest source for lumber
>>> (it may be for power tools though). ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>> Ever look at the mail order adds in any of the woodworking mags?
Brian> Actually, they (Home Depot) sometimes do have good prices on
Brian> power tools. Have *you* compared them lately? The
Brian> Porter-Calbe 7549 jigsaw is $129 there. International Tools
Brian> has it for $134. They also carry the DeWalt 421 ROS for $77;
Brian> ITC & Tool Crib both have it for $79.
Just another data point or three:
- DeWalt 364 circular saw for $110 (most mail order places want >$150)
- Pony #50 clamp fixture for $7.90 (I think, same as most MO)
- a large selection of Quick Grip clamps (and cheaper than
Woodworker's Supply), including an interesting deal on the 6" clamp
(not the mini-clamp) with accessories (full length pads and corner
clamp attachment) for $16 (while the 6" clamp by itself is >$19).
Oh, their prices on Bessey K-body clamps is better some MO places too.
Not to mention a 10% discount on your first credit card purchase if
you get their card :-). This might be a special offer though.
--
Victor Kan k...@kanly.rtp.nc.us
Jim Oitzinger
generally been a waste of time because either: (1) they didn't have the make/
model I was most interested in (say from a magazine test), or (2) they did but the
price was higher than mail order and while sometimes the same or slightly lower,
by the time you added in taxes and/or time wasted looking around the effective
price was far higher than mail order. (I buy my tools for the long haul, a week's
wait for parcel post to deliver, is no inconvience and may be a blessing, i.e. if
I'm willing to wait a week to get it, then I probably really do need it.)
Mail order is so often far cheaper and less time consuming its hardly
worth bothering with the hassles of local "discounters." I guess if you like
their prices you'll love their check out lines.
Jim O. oit...@sccsi.com(Jim Oitzinger)