Carbide hole saws
mkr5000
They're fine on thin Pine, but that's about it.
Even brand new ones will burn and stall my drill.
Are carbide hole saws "much" better?
I didn't even know they made them in carbide till I googled it a few
minutes ago.
Lew Hodgett
"mkr5000" wrote:
Sounds like you are operating at too high an RPM.
Anything above 3-400 RPM will be a problem.
To protect your wrists, you really need a right angle drill.
BiMetal hole saws do a good job, plain carbon steel not so good.
Have never found a need for carbide hole saws.
Lew
mkr5000
too lazy to change the belt but I'll try it tomorrow.
I need to get my shopsmith back that I used as a drill press -- easy
to change speed.
Mike Marlow
"mkr5000" <mike...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:475bb401-74cb-4df4...@z41g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
If they stall your drill, you need a new drill motor. Get something with
some power.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Mike Marlow
My apologies for my previous reply - did not realize you were talking about
a press.
Shame on you though. Really! By your own admission, you are too lazy to
change your belts, but you'll wasted a lot of people's time with what is
essentially a stupid request? You really should be ashamed...
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Joe
to allow the sawdust to escape to prevent overheating?
"mkr5000" <mike...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:475bb401-74cb-4df4...@z41g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
Martin H. Eastburn
All to often I have seen 16 or 18 ga power cords on drill presses and lathes.
It starves the motor and that begins the downfall.
I put a 12 ga on my drill press and gained HP! Now to look at that
wimpy 2 wire plug on my metal lathe. Never had trouble - but I want to
put in 3 wire and larger wire as well.
Martin
Robatoy
Carbide hole saws have an advantage that the barrel is thinner than
the kerf if the teeth. Less chance of binding, but taking the plug out
is no easier.... at least with solid surface and particle board.
Lee Michaels
drill bit. He said that they worked much better than a hole saw. They
obviously cost more. And they only come in certain sizes, apparently sized
for various diameters of pipe to go through.
I need to drill some holes myself soon in inch and a half wood. I know that
Harbor Freight has a few sizes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65657
I may pick up one and try it out soon. The only problem is that they only
have one size I need. I may have to go elsewhere to get the other size.
I have no experience with these kinds of bits. But I don't have to drill
that many holes so a cheaper bit should work for me.
I should point out that he had a super sized drill. I am not sure how well
this would work with a small, wimpy drill. I have a large drill I picked up
years ago that I hardly ever use. It requires both hands and much of my
bodyweight to keep it under control. That should work well for my
application. Either that or a drill press should work well.
I am al;so thinking tht this may not be the smoothest cut. Since it is
designed for a utilitarian purpose by folks who don't care about pretty.
Lew Hodgett
"Lee Michaels" wrote:
> I need to drill some holes myself soon in inch and a half wood.
<snip>
> I should point out that he had a super sized drill. I am not sure
> how well this would work with a small, wimpy drill. I have a large
> drill I picked up years ago that I hardly ever use. It requires both
> hands and much of my bodyweight to keep it under control. That
> should work well for my application.
----------------------------------------------
Remember that old saying, "When the mass of the ass equals the torque
of the dork, etc"?
You need a BIG drill operating at low RPM to drill holes with either a
hole saw or a speed bit.
Hope that beast you have has provisions for a couple of long pipe
handle extensions, they will be VERY useful.
I'm a firm believer in right angle, low RPM drills for large holes.
BTDT, don't need the t-shirt.
Lew
Lee Michaels
"Lew Hodgett" wrote
>
> "Lee Michaels" wrote:
>
>> I need to drill some holes myself soon in inch and a half wood.
> <snip>
>> I should point out that he had a super sized drill. I am not sure how
>> well this would work with a small, wimpy drill. I have a large drill I
>> picked up years ago that I hardly ever use. It requires both hands and
>> much of my bodyweight to keep it under control. That should work well for
>> my application.
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> Remember that old saying, "When the mass of the ass equals the torque of
> the dork, etc"?
>
> You need a BIG drill operating at low RPM to drill holes with either a
> hole saw or a speed bit.
>
> Hope that beast you have has provisions for a couple of long pipe handle
> extensions, they will be VERY useful.
>
drilling is soft pine. And I am a big guy. I should be OK.
Although I agree with you, I am not going to go out and buy an expensive new
tool for a few holes.
Lew Hodgett
"Lee Michaels" wrote:
> The handles are quite long. The drill itself is quite heavy. The
> wood I am drilling is soft pine. And I am a big guy. I should be
> OK.
>
> Although I agree with you, I am not going to go out and buy an
> expensive new tool for a few holes.
A quality hole saw arbor is about $15 and an 1-1/2" BiMetal hole saw
is about $10.
Hole saws are like potato chips, one is not enough<G>.
An intergral arbor saves a couple of $, but only if you NEVER need
another size.
Have fun.
Lew
Robatoy
wrote:
Plunge router/bushing/bit combos work well for clean and fast holes in
pine. You just need a piece of 1/2" MDF and make a hole (plus 2x bit/
bushing offset) for a template. A couple of pencilled on cross-hairs
and you got bigger better faster.
mkr5000
or bind up but I'll try a carbide saw anyway.
Harbor freight step drills are JUNK by the way. Complete waste of
money. (I'm one of the fools who bought some).
Klein is the way to go and they work great on metal but for wood I'll
stick with the hole saw thing -- you're moving much less material that
way.
whit3rd
[about a cutting problem with holesaws]
> I need to get my shopsmith back that I used as a drill press -- easy
> to change speed.
Your use of a vertical drill press guarantees holesaw problems.
The holesaw design, unlike twist drills and augers, has NO
provision to pump out the sawdust. You have to raise the
bit a lot, or do tricks (a pilot hole at the perimeter allows
sawdust to drop through); I like the compressed-air blowgun
approach, but usually just stand there huffing and puffing.
Jerome Meekings
> Are carbide hole saws "much" better?
>
> I didn't even know they made them in carbide till I googled it a few
> minutes ago.
Yes very much better try the Bosch Carbide Hole Saws
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