Craftsman Table Saw ---- What's the yellow circle for?

[bremen68]

Howdy all... Pop always said the only dumb question is the one you
won't ask... What is the yellow plastic circle/plug for on the older
(possibly newer) C-man a0" contractor style table saws? The plug is
located in the table top right before the blade insert.

I didn't get a manual with my saw and I've wondered what it's there
for. I think it has "exact cut" or something like that on it. (I'm
working from memory and didn't feel like waiting till I got home to
post the question.. A. Because I'd probably forget -- again and/or B.
SWMBO or the youngins would keep me hoppin and I'd probably forget ---
again... ;-) )

Thanks...

[Leon]

"bremen68" <brem...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:1163687647.7...@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

It is used to indicate where you line of cut is. Use your miter gauge set
at 90 degrees and cut a small amount off the end of a board. With out
letting the board slip on the gauge, pull the board and gauge back until the
board is covering 1/2 the yellow spot and use a pencil, fine point permanent
marker, or utility knife to mark a line along the fresh cut edge of that
board. Repeat for the other side of the blade.

Use the line/lines on the yellow spot for reference to align your future
cuts.

[Thom]

I did mine slightly different but with the same result.
I took some thin stock and ran into the blade without cutting off. Bring the
piece back without moving and you can mark both sides of the blade with one
cut.
Same result -- slightly different process to get both sides of the blade at
one time.

Thom

"Leon" <removespa...@swbell.net> wrote in message
news:6O_6h.26159$TV3....@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...

[Doug Miller]

In article <1163687647.7...@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, "bremen68" <brem...@verizon.net> wrote:
>Howdy all... Pop always said the only dumb question is the one you
>won't ask... What is the yellow plastic circle/plug for on the older
>(possibly newer) C-man a0" contractor style table saws? The plug is
>located in the table top right before the blade insert.
>
>I didn't get a manual with my saw and I've wondered what it's there
>for. I think it has "exact cut" or something like that on it.

I used to have a similar one, years ago. The idea is that you make two marks
on the yellow circle (with a sharp pencil, marking knife, awl, etc) in line
with where the two sides of the blade cut, like this:
| |
| |
Then you can (supposedly) line up a mark on your lumber to the appropriate
mark on the yellow circle, and cut exactly on your mark. That's how it works
in theory, anyway. In practice, it works much better to line your cut mark up
to the blade itself -- while the blade is stopped, of course -- or, for
crosscuts, use an *accurate* miter gauge or sled. (Hint: if it says
"Craftsman" on it, it's not accurate.)

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

[George]

"bremen68" <brem...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:1163687647.7...@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Exac-ti-cut was the nomenclature, as memory serves, and one use has been
given.

[No Spam]

I actually think it was meant to be more of a safety feature. It allows
you to know where the blade will cut without lifting or removing the
blade guard. I used to own a Craftsman table saw, but I never recall
using the feature. That being said, some people might find it useful,
and at least Sears was trying to make an improvement. It definitely
does not hurt anything or get in the way.

[tom_m...@comcast.net]

Others have described it's purpose. It's been a feature on Craftsman
saws for a long time. I've seen it on a 1950's vintage "100" model
Craftsman saw, which belonged to my grandfather and now sits largely
unused in my brother's basement (I got the drill press and RAS, both of
similar vintage). Anyway, in those days the Exacti-Cut marker had
adjustable steel indexes.

Yeah, I know, I should have negotiated for the table saw, but I didn't
now any better back then. Besides, I really like my Grizzly TS and it's
great to have both a RAS and a TS in the shop.

Tom

[Wilson]

I used a straight edge and put marks for each side of the blade on mine,
since I don't have the Exacticut stuff...very useful!
WL
<tom_m...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1163711330....@f16g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

[Rob Mills]

They have had that yellow disk as long as I can remember, even in the late
50's. I use mine and like it. I would not mark it with anything other than a
lead pencil though because different blades will have different widths. RM~

[bremen68]

Thanks for the info folks!!!

I put the saw back into my shop last night (short version - I was using
my bro-in-laws Delta - he's reclaimed it, so back to the craftsman for
me)

Took a look at the exacta-cut and it's a little scuffed, but nothing
looks like it was marked... I'll do that as part of the final tune
up...

[James Williams]

Ridgid TS3650 also has this feature(exacta-cut). Believe the older Craftsman
Contractor Saw was made by Ridgid's parent company Emerson.

JW

"bremen68" <brem...@verizon.net> wrote in message

news:1163775870.9...@j44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

[Rob Mills]

"James Williams" <jimw...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:6bcdb$455de7cc$97d54e49$12...@ALLTEL.NET...

>>> Believe the older Craftsman Contractor Saw was made by Ridgid's parent
company Emerson.<<<

Right! I have one of the fewer Craftsman "made by Ryobi" contactor saws
(aprox 4 yr old) made after the Emerson/Craftsman split and it also has the
yellow spot. I had always thought that either craftsman or emerson had a
patent on the yellow spot, guess it was a mutual deal.
As a Sears retiree I got a real deal (hell of a deal) on the close out
Craftsman/Ryobi saw and like it just as well as my old craftsman/emerson
and some features even better. The one thing I don't like on the
craftsman/ryobi are the hold down dogs attached to the splitter. I have a
complete guard splitter assembly from an old craftsman that I am going
to try to adapt to the new saw. If that doesn't work, guess I'll look at
some after market splitters or make one from scratch. RM~

[Father Haskell]

Redundant feature if you use a zero clearance throatplate.

[Orson]

replying to Rob Mills, Orson wrote:
As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
replacement parts?
I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884). It is not supported by Sears
anymore.
Thank you, Orson

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/craftsman-table-saw-what-s-the-yellow-circle-for-347975-.htm

[DerbyDad03]

On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 5:44:04 PM UTC-4, Orson wrote:
> replying to Rob Mills, Orson wrote:
> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
> replacement parts?
> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884). It is not supported by Sears
> anymore.
> Thank you, Orson
>

The thread you are responding to is 13 years old. I doubt Rob Mills is
paying attention anymore.

Start a new thread with a relevant subject line. You are more likely to
get a response that way.

[Tim Daneliuk]

On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
> replacement parts?
> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
> anymore.
> Thank you, Orson
>

Google is your helper here:

https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207

[DerbyDad03]

Were these flex drive models any good?

My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
a flex drive before, not even on youtube.

[Tim Daneliuk]

I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...

[DerbyDad03]

That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.

Blade varies based on usage.

The only I've had to replace was an arbor bearing and that was earlier
this year. I had a spare arbor, brand new, so I replaced both bearings
and the arbor as long as I had it apart.

I keep meaning to buy a link belt but I never seem to remember.

[Leon]

On 8/8/2019 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>> replacement parts?
>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>> anymore.
>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>
>>
>>
>> Google is your helper here:
>>
>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>
> Were these flex drive models any good?

I think the fact that you don't see anyone making them any more would
indicate NO. I could see them being a constant maintenance or
replacement problem, like the old speedo cables.

[Leon]

LOL, that's the only way to make some Craftsman TS's worth using. I had
an 83 Craftsman 1 hp belt drive TS. I replaced the wings, stand, and fence.

[Leon]

On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>> anymore.
>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>
>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>
>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>
>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>
>>
>>
>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>
> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
>
> Blade varies based on usage.

Get A WWII already. ;~)

I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.

For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.

If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
circular saw.

[Leon]

BTY I never put a link belt on the TS, the belt was almost perfectly
round and never took a set.
BUT I did replace the belts in my DP with a link belt, the DP runs much
smoother although noisier on higher speeds.

[DerbyDad03]

Did anyone make a fence that was worse than the stock fence on that entire
line of Craftsman contractor saws?

You'd have to try really hard...actually do it on purpose. ;-)

[DerbyDad03]

I thought you used your green track saw for cutting everything. ;-)

[Leon]

No, mostly for cutting sheet goods to large sizes of smaller.

[Leon]

No manufacturer that I know of. I have seen a couple of home made ones
on YouTube that were probably worse.

[k...@notreal.com]

Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud set
for MDF, and such.

>
>For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
>ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
>gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.

There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.

>If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
>circular saw.

I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.

[Puckdropper]

Looks like we got some on-topic conversation happening. I'm not going
to worry about a post's age if it keeps us talking.

Besides, with proper quoting what's 13 years?

Puckdropper

[DerbyDad03]

I guess the depends on your definition of "on-topic".

The original topic of the thread is the Exacti-Cut disk. Nothing since the August 8th revival of
the thread is even remotely related to that little yellow disk, not even the question that revived
the thread.

Since then we've drifted from the "revival question" (flex shaft) to the modifications some of us
have made to our Craftsman saws and then to what blades we use on table saws in general.

The only thing close to on-topic is that we're still (sort of) talking about table saws ;-)

[Leon]

When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the flat
grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.

>>
>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
>
> There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
> worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.

I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to really
sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.

>
>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
>> circular saw.
>
> I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
> do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
>

I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 11:37:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>

But instead of buying another ATB, I bought the #1 grind. Now I
sharpen the one that needs it.

>
>
>>>
>>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
>>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
>>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
>>
>> There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
>> worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.
>
>I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to really
>sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
>saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.

The Freud blade is really nice, too, and designed specifically for the
task.

>>
>>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
>>> circular saw.
>>
>> I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
>> do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
>>
>
>I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
>Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.

I don't think I want "anything that they find" in my basement. Sounds
like something for a seawall.

[dpb]

I guess you'se guys would have a hard time with what I reclaim/reuse... :)

100+ yr old 16-20 footers are far better material underneath the old
paint and weather than anything cut now...of course, this is fascia
material for the re-doing of the house not furniture, but still...when a
1x8 16-ft has nary a knot and 1/32" growth rings, it's pretty easy to
run it thru the planer and skim of the top as opposed to purchasing
"select" material at almost $50/piece and nothing over 14-ft available.

:)

I did use the old Model 13 Rockwell/Delta planer for the rough work
rather than the PM 180 as it's quite a lot cheaper to replace the
smaller than the larger if do get a chip...I got lucky though, gotten
through almost all to be reused immediately and so far, haven't missed
anything before going thru...

--


--

[DerbyDad03]

I really, really hope you haven't jinxed yourself. :-0

Good luck with the rest of the boards.

[dpb]

Yes, that would be good... :)

> Good luck with the rest of the boards.

Indeed. I've got ~800 running feet of 3" bead board that was soffit
that we replaced of which perhaps 2/3-rds is mostly reclaimable.
Debated for long time about replacing or trying to redo in place and
finally decided to put new material up as the time that would be
required to strip and retouch joints in place just too much...plus, it's
good to get the Dirty Thirties and Filthy Fifties accumulated dirt down
as well...as much as 2-3" in places on top of soffit.

Got drywall hung in new entry last week, flooring (1-1/4" strip oak to
match old house) after mud and tape and then can start the trim out.


--

[DerbyDad03]

Many years ago I helped demo a farmhouse kitchen. Late 1800's brick house,
where the "woodshed" was right off the kitchen and inside the brick
perimeter. The owner's were expanding the kitchen by incorporating the
woodshed into the space.

When we pulled the old wainscoting off the walls we found that the stud bays
were almost half full with critter debris, droppings and the occasional
carcass. 3' - 4' up the wall, every bay. What a mess to clean up, since it
was all inside the house. Shovels, dust masks and lots of contractor bags.

Best part of the weekend:

The old fireplace was still in the wall between the kitchen and the woodshed.
A few guys went up on the roof and into the attic and tore the chimney down
to the attic floor. Then they went into the woodshed and wrap chains around
the fireplace supports, hooked them up to 2 tractors and pulled the base out,
dropping the rest of the chimney into the kitchen/woodshed. Lot's of noise,
but when the dust cleared we see the sky 2 stories above the kitchen.

My sons, 10 and 12 at the time, were there. Now in their 30's, it's something
they still talk about.

[dpb]

Not found anything even approaching that...this is just good, clean
topsoil blown in by the KS winds during the main dust bowl years of the
30's mostly altho there were some also some really bad days in the 50s
drought years, too. With minor accumulations over the other 80-90 years
as well, of course.

Dad stripped all the exterior walls to insulate when did the major
remodel in the late 70s/early 80s so they're still pretty good shape
where have needed to get in.

Discovered when we repaired the bad roofing job had done just before Dad
passed and we came back (had put metal drip edge on wood-shingles with
no overhang so it wicked back behind it and down the face of the fascia
and into soffit) discovered he had not done anything at all in the
attic...so we hauled out about 5" of dirt and insulated it then...all
that had been there was that black-paper covered 1/2" rock wool...a
little better than nothing, but not much.

What was the access to the cavities in that house? Doesn't seem like
should been that open w/ brick unless was balloon framing? Or had the
brick wall been added later on and just covered up existing old open
woodshed maybe?

--

[DerbyDad03]

I don't know the history of the house. It was owned by a co-worker's
grandparents and I made a few trips out there to help tear down an old
out building that had become a danger, haul some wood from the "back forty",
etc. There was usually a family gathering after the work was done, so
I knew most of my friend's family. When Grandma passed, his mom and dad
moved in and renovated the place as their retirement home. When extra hands
were needed, I lent them mine.

My guess is that the critters found their way into the woodshed, which was basically open to the outside even if it was walled in brick, then
eventually under and up into the house.

I recall that the floor of the woodshed was well below the floor of the
kitchen. You had to go up a few steps on the front and side of the house
to get in, but you walked right into the woodshed from the ground. That's
how the guys had access to the underside of the fireplace. I remember
looking down on them from the kitchen door as they pounded away at some
huge beams with sledgehammers.

This was at least 20 years ago, so I don't recall all of the details. I do
recall that the coal fire furnace still used a screw feeder. At least I think
it still used it. I know for sure that it was still there because my buddy explained to me how it worked. I grew up in NYC, so all this farm stuff was
still pretty new, and therefore very interesting, to me. ;-)

[Jack]

On 8/10/2019 9:07 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> Looks like we got some on-topic conversation happening. I'm not going
>> >to worry about a post's age if it keeps us talking.

> I guess the depends on your definition of "on-topic".
>
> The original topic of the thread is the Exacti-Cut disk. Nothing since the August 8th revival of
> the thread is even remotely related to that little yellow disk, not even the question that revived
> the thread.
>
> Since then we've drifted from the "revival question" (flex shaft) to the modifications some of us
> have made to our Craftsman saws and then to what blades we use on table saws in general.
>
> The only thing close to on-topic is that we're still (sort of) talking about table saws;-)

On Topic in a newsgroup means, in this case, related to woodworking.
The fact a subject evolves from table saws to rusty oak or band saw
blades doesn't make it off topic. Talking about quilt competition,
sewing and knitting or killing bees is likely not "on topic" in a
woodworking newsgroup.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

[dpb]

On 8/11/2019 2:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 1:30:23 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:

...

>> What was the access to the cavities in that house? Doesn't seem like
>> should been that open w/ brick unless was balloon framing? Or had the
>> brick wall been added later on and just covered up existing old open
>> woodshed maybe?
>>
>> --
>
> I don't know the history of the house. It was owned by a co-worker's
> grandparents and I made a few trips out there to help tear down an old
> out building that had become a danger, haul some wood from the "back forty",
> etc. There was usually a family gathering after the work was done, so
> I knew most of my friend's family. When Grandma passed, his mom and dad
> moved in and renovated the place as their retirement home. When extra hands
> were needed, I lent them mine.
>
> My guess is that the critters found their way into the woodshed, which was basically open to the outside even if it was walled in brick, then
> eventually under and up into the house.
>
> I recall that the floor of the woodshed was well below the floor of the
> kitchen. You had to go up a few steps on the front and side of the house
> to get in, but you walked right into the woodshed from the ground. That's
> how the guys had access to the underside of the fireplace. I remember
> looking down on them from the kitchen door as they pounded away at some
> huge beams with sledgehammers.

Makes sense and about what I had kinda' surmised must've been the case.
Stuff like that not at all uncommon in those days...

> This was at least 20 years ago, so I don't recall all of the details. I do
> recall that the coal fire furnace still used a screw feeder. At least I think
> it still used it. I know for sure that it was still there because my buddy explained to me how it worked. I grew up in NYC, so all this farm stuff was
> still pretty new, and therefore very interesting, to me. ;-)

I never saw the original steam boiler in this house before the
conversion to NG so not sure how it was fed while still on coal.

Dad, being the first of the children born on the farm (third overall)
used to say he was "born in the coal room" because the house was as yet
unfinished and they were living in the basement while remainder was
being built at the time he was born. The room that was used ended up
being the coal bin for a while after the house was done and the family
moved upstairs...

But the first main pipeline was laid across the pasture just to the SE
of the house within 10-15 years and grandpa got a tap as part of the
right of way deal and converted well before I was born probably another
15-20 years anyways. Initially, all of those allowed cost-free gas for
domestic use but that got broken by the successor company of the
original almost 30 year ago now. Never could see how they could be
allowed to do that, but the courts said it was legal through some
loophole in how the contracts were written. I wasn't home at the time
so don't know all the tricks they pulled nor how much was paid to whom.

At least so far, they haven't threatened to pull the connection itself.

--

[Scott Lurndal]

My Uncle had a gravity "octopus" woodburner in the farmhouse basement until sometime in
the early 1980's when he switched to propane. Narrow little stairway down to
a cramped cellar several times a day to feed the beast.... Cutting cordwood all
summer on the hills (and some of that was before hydraulic splitters).

[DerbyDad03]

I've got picture of Grandpa with his IH pick-up parked next to the foundation
of a house. Also in the picture is the top half of my mom (as a young girl)
emerging from the bulkhead doors.

Grandpa was a mason and building a house in his spare time. He had to sell the
old place to raise the money to buy supplies for the new house, so as soon
as the basement was done, they moved in. That house, and 2 more, were built
with used brick that they used to give away back then.

[DerbyDad03]

My house used to have a "hybrid" forced air/gravity furnace...more or less.

The original gas valve had a "locking tab" on it that allowed the user to open
the valve manually and light the burners during a power outage. Since there was
no power for the blower, it basically worked like a gravity system.

Of course, no blowers meant nothing (except for gravity) to take the heat
away from the heat exchanger, so there was a pretty strict duty cycle listed
in the manual. Obviously it was completely dependent on the user to adhere
to the duty cycle. Not the safest set-up ever designed.

When the furnace was 30-something years old, the gas valve went bad and I
couldn't afford a whole new system, so I had to have the valve replaced.
The repair guy laughed when I asked if he could get an "original" gas
valve so that I wouldn't lose that feature. He mentioned a "code" or
something like that. ;-)