On Mon, 14 Oct 2013 20:08:14 -0500, dpb wrote:
> On 10/11/2013 6:29 PM, Jules Richardson wrote:
> ...
>
>
>> Anyway, the bronze driveshaft bearings were completely shot - but when
>> I pulled them out so I could replace them, I found that the one on the
>> drive pulley side completely blocks the grease fitting pathway!
>>
>> It seems impossible that it was always like that; there's a cavity
>> within the saw's cast frame which still had some grease in it (albeit
>> not much).
>> So I assume that the bearings have been replaced at some point in the
>> saw's life; did the original (on the grease fitting side) maybe have a
>> notch to allow grease in? Or perhaps a hole, and grease could flow
>> between the bearing and driveshaft into the cavity (but this seems
>> unlikely as the clearance between bearing and driveshaft is so small)?
> ...
>
> I think it's the latter; that you're supposed to drill the hole before
> installation. The point of the cap on the "oiler" if it's as the one
> I've seen that's a set screw is that you put some grease in there and
> then the screw forces it down into the area and then the shaft rotation
> carries some into the annular space. One should, of course, coat the
> interior fully before inserting the shaft.
>
> That's if the bushing is solid bronze; alternatively, if the bushings
> supplied are sintered they use oil instead of grease and it's supposed
> to work it's way thru the pores.
These are oil-impregnated bronze, but I don't think that they're porous -
the oil just helps them to last longer, but they still need greasing.
Searching for the original p/n (920-75-011-2796) turns up a couple of
images, both of which appear to be plain bearings/bushings - no holes,
grooves etc.
I don't understand how grease is supposed to get to where it's needed,
but I have seen this setup - a grease chamber and plain bearings at the
ends of a plain shaft - before; e.g. the right-angle drive on my tiller
and the back axles on my pair of lawn tractors are like that. It just
seems a bit wasteful as what's the point of having a big chamber full of
grease when only a little bit of it is doing useful work (it's different
for the tractors and tiller as the gears sit in the grease)? Maybe as the
bearings get warm they're supposed to "wick" more grease from the chamber
or something.
Anyway, what I've done for now is cut a small ("internal") slot in the
saw's frame between the grease point and the interior grease chamber;
that will allow me to pump grease into the chamber with the bearings
fitted (from where it will be forced between the bearings and shaft,
although I'll still pre-grease everything before assembly, of course). It
would just be nice to find someone who has taken one of these saws "in
original condition" apart just to see what the setup is!
Maybe it was just supposed to be routine maintenance every x months to
force more grease into the chamber via the grease point, and this in turn
would force fresh grease into the bearings. Of course, hardly anyone
likely did so...
> Unfortunately, as the other poster suggests there likely isn't
> sufficient material to support any sealed bearing which would be the
> cat's meow if so...
Yes, I don't think so either - I did look at sealed bearings, but the OD
is just too big. It could probably be done using a bearing carrier
mounted to the frame (although there's not much clearance on the pulley
side), but realistically I only got this saw for light use (I've got $15
in it right now*, including the new bearings) and if that changed I'd be
better spending a few hundred on a decent saw rather than putting $50
into a saw that would still be left with cheap plastic wheels :-)
* add $10 for a 1/2HP motor, but I want to make sure it all runs true
before getting that far.
cheers
Jules