Jointer infeed and outfeed table parallelism

[Richard Cranium]

I have a Delta 6" jointer model no. 37-190. The infeed table isn't
parallel to the outfeed table. The infeed table is about 0.011" low
at the cutter end. The owners manual doesn't show any adjustment for
parallelism -- is there one? Is 0.011" an acceptable tolerance?

Any help is appreciated.

R.C.

[Scott Post]

In article <qb8h0v4lbp2eu7h30...@4ax.com>,

Richard Cranium <Richard...@Home.Now> wrote:
>I have a Delta 6" jointer model no. 37-190. The infeed table isn't
>parallel to the outfeed table. The infeed table is about 0.011" low
>at the cutter end. The owners manual doesn't show any adjustment for
>parallelism -- is there one? Is 0.011" an acceptable tolerance?
>

If it's a new jointer the correct adjustment is to adjust it's position
by shifting it back to the store for a replacement. If it's out of
warranty you'll have to shim the ways. Basically you insert shim stock
between the base and table to get the table back into the right
position.

--
Scott Post sep...@insightbb.com http://home.insightbb.com/~sepost/

[Wayne Jacques]

I used to service them and we did a lot better the .011" Factory used to
be .005". Delta never tried to achieve metal working standards, as this is a
wood working tool, in their mind. (I never agreed with them). They felt that
a user should flip their piece of stock around after each pass, cancelling
out any error in their machining.

At least on of the tables is adjustable. First things first, is your
straight edge true? Most are out. This will compound any error. Once you
have determined it is true, then you could attempt to level the tables.

Most Delta jointers have "keys" that are shimmed and held in place with set
screws. These are located on both sides of the table(s).

Undo the set screws on both sides of one of the tables. Move it until it is
true, then snug them back up. If the set screws pull the table out of
alignment, move the key or down a little. This will position the set screws
so that they create new holes.Snug them carefully. Too tight, and they table
will become a bear to move up or down.

w

"Richard Cranium" <Richard...@Home.Now> wrote in message
news:qb8h0v4lbp2eu7h30...@4ax.com...

[Richard Cranium]

Wayne,

Thanks for the reply. First, my straight edge isn't a machinist
straight edge -- I used my 8ft Tru-Grip straight edge so I know it's
only close at best. I moved it around several times and the 0.011" is
an average.

Since Santa will be here sometime during the night I may get a real
straight edge and I'll do the measuring again. If I check it with a
true straight edge and it is worse than 0.005" at least now I know how
to get it parallel.

Thanks again,
R.C.

On Wed, 25 Dec 2002 00:18:57 GMT, "Wayne Jacques" <ho...@home.com>
said:

[ccmainord]

Owners manual for Delta 37-190 jointer(part
number1345396 dated 2-16-96) clearly shows
the adjustment of both infeed and outfeed tables.

"Richard Cranium" <Richard...@Home.Now> wrote in message
news:qb8h0v4lbp2eu7h30...@4ax.com...

[Richard Cranium]

Thank you for that bit of wisdom.

However, the adjustment described is for raising or lowering the
table(s). This does not include adjustment for what my original post
was asking about -- parallelism.

R.C.

On Wed, 25 Dec 2002 02:36:03 GMT, "ccmainord" <ccma...@prodigy.net>
said:

[Bob Buch]

> ...is your straight edge true? Most are out.

FWW issue #142 p41 "Leveling Jointer Tables with a Shopmade Test Bar" by
John White describes how to make your own.

The article is available in the archive at

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/index.asp

If that link doesn't work, try my site

www.trbtech.com/testbar

and click the link there.

Bob Buch
www.fhtm.ws/ar/buch