Spray painting kitchen cabinets
Dick Durbin
bright white. They have some nasty pickled oak finish right now that
both of us hate. I know squat about spray painting but I figure that,
if I can use this as an excuse to buy a compressor, it will be worth
it.
What I need to know is whether any of the Campbell-Hausfeld spray guns
available at Lowe's are capable of handling this job. Where can I go
to find out?
Thanks for your assistance.
Dick Durbin
Tallahassee
Eric Garcia
to consider something along the lines of a wagner power painter instead.
I rationalized it this way when I was in the market for a compressor. I
can easily spend $600 for a decent compressor that would handle a spray
gun, or I can pay $300 for a pancake compressor/ finish nailer combo that
I can tote around for nail guns and another $300 for the wagner power
painter. I spent the same and had more versitility. If you need to power
neumatic wrenches and other tools as well it is a different story.
mlb6073
right :) compressor that works pretty well for painting as well as
running all of my air grinders and tools. When I shoot finish or paints
I run it through a home made water trap. I know nothing about
Campbell-Hausfeld guns (I use 2 Binks cup guns and a Badger detail gun)
but I do have a suggestion for you if you decide to use compressed air.
If you decide to go this way (compressed air) you should set up a water
separator. You can make one out of plumbing (not PVC, galvanized pipe,
copper pipe etc. Metal!) Hook up your compressor to a section of pipe
from the floor level of your shop to as high as you can go (8, 10, even
12 feet works well) then run a 90 degree fitting, a short section (a few
inches) and then another 90 degree so you can go straight down parallel
to the other line. install a "Tee" fitting (so the through hole runs
vertical while the single leg of the "Tee" is Horizontal) most of the
way down this line and continue the line down the wall and terminate
with some sort of drain valve or plug that can be removed to drain
water. Connect a 90 degree fitting (pointing back straight up) to the
other end of your "Tee" and then connect your rubber line (that will
supply air to your gun). Any water that comes out of your tank will most
likely not get through this maze of plumbing due to simple gravity. You
should install a good quality regulator between your water trap and your
rubber line. You can additionally buy a water separator and install it
in line (prior to the regulator) but they are kind of spendy (Mine has a
separator as well but most of the water gets trapped in the plumbing).
Why is this important? Water will make your finish "Fish Eye" and do
some other nasty things to your finish.
I'm sure there are many methods to accomplish this but mine is a "budget
minded" method that works well for me.
Hope this helps,
Michael
mjag
And you arrived at this conclusion how?
It takes a big compressor 3 HP+ to power a hvlp conversion gun but most any
compressor will handle a standard, non bleeder, spray gun as well as
standard pneumatic tools. A bleeder type wouldn't necessarily need a large
compressor just one with a large reserve tank to keep it's running time
down.
--
Mike Glennon
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
mi...@heirloom-woods.net
Lowell Holmes
I painted over old cabinets one time. The new paint did not adhere to the
old finish. I ended up having to soften the old finish with liquid sander
and sealing it with Kilz in order for the new finish to stick. I don't mean
to be a presumptuous know-it-all, I just thought I would share my adventure.
"Dick Durbin" <ddu...@tfn.net> wrote in message
news:4f3a7375.02061...@posting.google.com...
Leon
compressor. You have to wait for the compressor to recharge a few times but
there is no problem with it.
Leon
with a brush unless you just want to buy all that equipment.
Bob Sosenko
I've owned a oiless compressor a few years now and recently "volunteered" to
make new cabinet doors for my sister-in-law's kitchen remodeling project
that are being spray painted with latex paint. So all I had to get was the
spray gun.
You should seriously consider an oiless compressor (longevity, less noise)
that has a rating equal to or better than the requirements of the spray gun.
For instance, my compressor is rated at 4CFM @ 100psi and the spray gun
requires 2.8CFM @ 40 psi so the compressor will handle it. The twin-tank hot
dog style (4 gal) from Hitachi and DeWalt (and others) are close in specs.
The spray gun I purchased (~$40) is similar to the C-H models at Lowe's so I
would expect they'll operate about the same. If you can get the gun with
the two adjustment screws (spray pattern and air adj) you'll have a bit more
control. As I've found out, spraying latex can be tricky and you definitely
need to add some Floetrol to make the paint flow better. Floetrol is not a
thinner and may even thicken the paint a bit so you will need to add some
water also as the thinner.
Recommended amounts of Floetrol and water to a quart of paint, vary and you
will have to experiment to get the correct consistency. Floetrol recommends
from 4oz to 8oz per quart of paint and typical labels on latex paint
recommend a max of 10% water per quart (3oz) - so measure carefully and mark
down what mixture combination works for you. I found that 8 oz of Floetrol
and 2oz of water per quart worked fine for the primer I used. When sprayed
at 35-40psi it went on in the smallest globules I could adjust the gun for
and when it was drying, it flowed out fairly smooth. Not perfect like a oil
based paint being sprayed on but certainly acceptable for a primer.
There is a transfer efficiency on these guns that is about 65% max. Meaning
you get a lot of overspray and bounce back which means that is paint that
goes everyplace except where you want it so be sure to buy extra. Also, you
will need to have those cabinet doors standing vertically to paint them.
Spraying something laying horizontally results in a lot of big gob's of
paint being shot - not what you want.
I posted some questions about spray painting latex a couple weeks back and
didn't get much information. So thru my own experimentation
(experiences...), here's my advice.....
1. The pro's say use a HVLP system. Pricey but they're probably right but
if this is a one time deal, see if you can rent one.
2. I've sprayed the primer on the cabinet doors I'm making and its
acceptable but it also is being sanded down slightly so it has a very smooth
and flat finish.
3. I doubt I can thin the finish coat paint any thinner than the primer I
used in order to get better atomization (finer spray) and hence a better
looking final coat. It will probably have real fine bumpy finish look to it
rather than a flat spray finish I would like to see, so I'll probably go
with a good brush for the finish coats instead of spraying but I need to
experiment on some scraps with the finish coat paint first.
Open to suggestions also and hope the above is of some help.
Bob S.
mjag
Thin it enough and even the cheapest gun will spray about anything and most
compressors supply sufficient pressure to do the job. .
Things to be concerned with is having a needle/nozzle combination that is
large enough to spray the medium you want with out having to thin the
material too much, and, getting a non bleeder type gun.
My guess is that the CH's you're talking about will do the job.However, if
you are going to be spraying latex you may find it necessary to invest in a
larger nozzle/needle then the one that comes with it or really thin the
latex down. Thinned or not you'd probably want to add some flotrol to the
paint to get it to lay out better.
Side notes -
I mention a non bleeder type gun because bleeder types always have air
running through them even when you don't have the trigger pulled. If you're
compressor doesn't have a large reserve tank this will cause the compressor
to run almost constantly. Annoying at best, hard on the compressor at worst.
More then likely the guns you find in the range you are talking about will
not have stainless steel parts, especially the nozzle/needle. If you intend
to spray latex or other water based products pay particular attention to
cleaning and DRYING all parts of the gun that come in contact with the water
based finish.
In short, with the proper preparation, a bit of experimenting, and attention
to maintenance the CH guns should give you a decent return on investment as
well as a decent finish.
.
Hope it helps
--
Mike Glennon
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
mi...@heirloom-woods.net
"Dick Durbin" <ddu...@tfn.net> wrote in message
news:4f3a7375.02061...@posting.google.com...
Todd Stock
PC) will run off many small compressors. Not for big jobs; however. Should
handle enamels and other medium-bodied stuff.
As to airless sprayers, the higher end stuff that my BIL uses are pretty nice
(Graco), but the lower-end Wagners and the like are more for staining decks -
don't think I'd want to shoot enamel with one. BIL also uses turbine HVLPs for
interior work (clear finishes), and these work well for enamels.
As to compressors, oiless units actually do not last as long between rebuilds;
the benefit of oiless is less chance of oil in the lines when spraying and no
concern about having to level unit to ensure lube.
Bob Sosenko
Brain fart - meant to say oil type, not oiless (I have the Hitachi). Is it
Friday yet......
Bob S.
Todd Stock
need to be leveled.... ("...hey mister! Your thing is on fire Todd - why is
that compressor