Window glazing
David Bartnik
winter and I have yet to learn the secret of applying glazing to the
windows without it sticking to my fingers and putty knife. Hardly any
of the glazing sticks to the window and what does looks awful. I've
tried applying it warm and cold and nothing seems to work. Any help
would be appreciated.
Dave Bartnik
Douglas S. Rand
It's a pain. First you take a bit and work it with your hands until
it's warm. Roll this out with your hands into a rope and press this
rope into the clean and primed (or oiled) area between the window
pane and the frame. Once you've applied this bead of glazing, use
the putty knife to press it down and form a nice triangular bead.
Once the glazing is dry, paint with an exterior paint.
Make sure the glazing isn't old and hard. You might be able to
soften it with a little mineral spirits, turpentine or some
linseed oil. Linseed oil makes a good thinner if you want a
somewhat softer and stickier version.
--
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Douglas S. Rand <dr...@osf.org> OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail: 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142
Disclaimer: I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
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David Esan
You can find glazing compound in a tube and apply it with a caulking gun.
You get a nice even bead all around. Then just smooth with the knife.
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--> David Esan d...@moscom.com
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Guy Smith
>In article <BvG14...@acsu.buffalo.edu> bar...@acsu.buffalo.edu (David Bartnik) writes:
>
>Make sure the glazing isn't old and hard. You might be able to
>soften it with a little mineral spirits, turpentine or some
behaved much like you describe. When I finally finished it and bought
another, all of a sudden life got much easier. I don't know what the
problem was, maybe age or misformulation. It also helps to have a clean
polished putty knife. I have one that I use for nothing else so it doesn't
get rusty or scratched up.
John Kleist
I've been doing a lot of glazing lately. Here's my $0.02:
1) If the putty (glazing compound) is NOT sticking to your fingers, it is
probably too hard and should be replaced (or rejuvenated as has been suggested).
Open the can before you leave the hardware store and check that is soft and
sticky. Last week I got a gallon of the stuff that had hardened on the surface.
It was very difficult to get good results.
2) The windows need to be clean and dust free. I like to remove all the
old putty. A heat gun works well to soften the putty. Be careful not to
overheat the glass (I cracked a pane this way.) I clean up the wood with
a small stainles steel brush and use a vacuum to remove all the dust and
debris.
3) Use lots of putty and press it firmly in place. You will recover
any excess when you smooth it.
4) A clean, smooth putty knife makes spreading the putty easier. The
angle between the putty and the knife should be shallow, say about 20 deg.
Try smoothing in one continuous motion. I do all 4 sides and then clean
up the corners. If the putty sticks to the knife, try moistening the
knife slightly with water.
5) Practice. I've now finished reglazing 8 windows (10 more to go);
#8 looks much better than #1.
--
John Kleist jo...@ulysses.atmos.colostate.edu
Department of Atmospheric Science (303) 491-8220
Colorado State University (303) 484-3754
Fort Collins CO 80523
Joel Finkel - SDI
> In article <BvG14...@acsu.buffalo.edu> bar...@acsu.buffalo.edu (David Bartnik) writes:
>
> I'm in the process of repairing a few windows around my house before
> winter and I have yet to learn the secret of applying glazing to the
> windows without it sticking to my fingers and putty knife. Hardly any
> of the glazing sticks to the window and what does looks awful. I've
> tried applying it warm and cold and nothing seems to work. Any help
> would be appreciated.
>
> It's a pain. First you take a bit and work it with your hands until
> it's warm. Roll this out with your hands into a rope and press this
> rope into the clean and primed (or oiled) area between the window
> pane and the frame. Once you've applied this bead of glazing, use
> the putty knife to press it down and form a nice triangular bead.
> Once the glazing is dry, paint with an exterior paint.
>
> Make sure the glazing isn't old and hard. You might be able to
> soften it with a little mineral spirits, turpentine or some
> linseed oil. Linseed oil makes a good thinner if you want a
> somewhat softer and stickier version.
>
Doug has a lot of good suggestions. Allow me add a few more
learned from 3 years of experience:
0) Before inserting the glass, lay down a LIGHT coat of oil
(as Doug suggests) on the rabbet, and give it a few
minutes to soak in. WIPE OFF EXCESS. Then lay down a
THIN layer of putty to provide a bed on which the glass
will lay. This cusions the glass, adjusts for uneveness of
the rabbet, and provides a seal on the inside of the
glass. Press down on the glass with light pressure when
inserting the push points. The excess putty will ooze out
of the inside of the sash; this can be smoothed and cut
off with the putty knife.
1) You need to find the proper angle to hold the putty knife.
Let's see if I can describe it! With the sash laying flat,
(you will start on the sash edge closest to your body),
start with the knife handle pointing straight up, with the
back side of the blade towards your body, (the lower part
just touching the line of putty). Now, tilt the knife
over to the right (towards the direction you will pull it)
about 60 degrees. Now lean it back towards your body to
achieve the proper angle of the putty.
2) Hold the knife handle in your right hand and with your
left index and middle fingers on the blade, apply pressure
and keep the angle correct as you pull it along with your
right hand. The lower right corner of the blade will ride
along the glass and the wood of the sash will hit in about
the middle of the blade edge.
3) Corners are the most fun. Keep pulling at the proper
angle right 'through' the corner on your right. Now
rotate the sash 90 degrees clockwise (keep it lying flat).
Start this next edge with the putty knife at the correct
angle, and press it into the corner on your left (half of
which you finished before rotating the sash). The first
stroke is not sideways! It is straight up into the air.
This will result in a smooth 'mitered' corner. Then
finish the side as you did the first side.
4) The trick is to apply the putty so that you cannot see it
when looking from the inside of the window.
5) You do not need to let the putty dry completely before
painting. But it must be firm. Different putties have
different setting times. After sampling many types, I
found that DAP was the worst and NU-PUTTY was the best.
6) When painting, it is important to paint the glass as well
to form a good seal to prevent moisture from seeping
between the glass and the putty. There should be about
1/8 of an inch of paint on the glass. Extra paint can
easily be removed with a razor blade when it has dried.
Use a GOOD oil based paint.
7) Stop and take a rest when your eyes glaze over (sorry, I
couldn't resist).
/Joel
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Bill Alexander
>I'm in the process of repairing a few windows around my house before
>winter and I have yet to learn the secret of applying glazing to the
>windows without it sticking to my fingers and putty knife. Hardly any
>of the glazing sticks to the window and what does looks awful. I've
>tried applying it warm and cold and nothing seems to work. Any help
>would be appreciated.
I watched a profession glazier (?) working this summer. His trick was dipping
his hands into kerosene before handling the putty. It both made it more
workable and kept it from sticking to his hands.
Gerry Krajenka
Use the stuff that comes in the caulking tub, easyer and will last as long...
the hardest thing was removing the old glazing on the window, I used a
heating gun to soften it up and scrap the glazing off.. I did crack
two windows though from the heat....
Gerry
David Esan
>I watched a profession glazier (?) working this summer. His trick was dipping
>his hands into kerosene before handling the putty. It both made it more
>workable and kept it from sticking to his hands.
Hmm. Real healthy. I believe kerosene is a carcinogen.
Christopher Lewis
>In article <WOODWORK%9210021...@IPFWVM.BITNET> AL...@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
>>I watched a profession glazier (?) working this summer. His trick was dipping
>>his hands into kerosene before handling the putty. It both made it more
>>workable and kept it from sticking to his hands.
>Hmm. Real healthy. I believe kerosene is a carcinogen.
No more so that gasoline or diesel...
Seriously, ordinary hydrocarbons are relatively innocuous w.r.t. cancers.
Things with carbon rings (eg: aromatic hydrocarbons) like benzenes and
toluene are the ones that the warnings are most often issued about. Kerosene
wouldn't have much of these.
But I betcha he had a good case of dishpan hands... Solvent burns,
losing skin oil etc.
[I'd wear gloves if it was necessary to do this...]
--
Chris Lewis; cle...@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
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Ferret list: ferret-...@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Joel Finkel - SDI
> In article <46...@moscom.com> d...@moscom.com (David Esan) writes:
>>In article <WOODWORK%9210021...@IPFWVM.BITNET> AL...@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
>>>I watched a profession glazier (?) working this summer. His trick was dipping
>>>his hands into kerosene before handling the putty. It both made it more
>>>workable and kept it from sticking to his hands.
>
Let's face it, if you're going to properly glaze a window,
you're gonna get putty on your hands. When you're done, you
can use the putty knife to scrape most of the putty off your
hands and the rest will come off with hot water & Lava soap.
Even people who work in sash factories (and who glaze with
ONE hand, if you can believe that!), get putty on their
hands.
It's no big deal and it's fun. Go for it.