Brad nailer - 18 ga. big enough?
Pistol_Pete
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.
I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.
Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?
joelj...@aol.com
> ..... Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
> building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
> using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
> backs of the bookcases (½” plywood).
For trim, you'd be far better off with a 23-gauge pin nailer. I made
the mistake at first of getting one that drove short pins and had to
get a Grex that took 1 3/8" pins. I've also used it to attach face
frames. (Of course you can use shorter pins with a larger capacity pin
nailer.)
> Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
> for? Upholstery? Insulation?
I've also seen staplers used on plywood casework that is going to be
painted.
whit3rd
> I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
> and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
> them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want?
I like mine, have used it for lots of trim (mainly baseboard and
carpentry
trim). For furniture, the smaller pin drivers are sometimes
preferred.
> Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
> for? Upholstery? Insulation?
Good for MDF and other fiberboard products. It takes a lot of area
(like
the full crown of a staple) to hold in those weak materials without
tearing out.
Leon
"Pistol_Pete" <Pisto...@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:994e76c1-a73d-4fff...@y11g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
A brad nailer will be good for the purposes you mentioned but no heavier of
a job. Keep in mind that smaller gauge fastenerers, "brads" are more
likely to deflect in the longer sizes, with harder woods and knots, and when
shooting at an angle. The longest I ever shoot out of my brad nailer is
1.125". I do however thave the luxury of having a finish nailer if I need
longer. I would not use a brad nailer for shelves, use it for light
applications.
Concerning your question of attaching the 1/2" plywood 1.5" IMHO is way more
than you need if you are going to glue also. If you shoot a 1" brad at a
slight angle and go the same degree angle in the opposite direction every
other nail you are going to lock every thing in nicely. Not much angle is
needed, 2 or 3 degrees.
Concerning your method of hanging,,,, I would advise 1/4" in set 3/4".
Immediately behind the 1/4" pywood at the top attach a 3/4" piece of wood
the width of the cabinet. Attach to the wall through that material. You do
not want to be hanging something to the wall by its pack panel alone.
There are few style staplers and they have more holding power than a brad
but are unsightly. Use them where they will not be shown. It is common to
attach backs with staples.
Artemus
"Pistol_Pete" <Pisto...@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:994e76c1-a73d-4fff...@y11g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
#1. A 23ga pin nailer will leave much smaller holes to fill in small trim
pieces. They are mainly to hold things in place "until the glue dries"
anyway.
#2. I bought a HF brad/stapler combo and took the POS back as it
constantly jammed. I bought separate brad and staple pneumatic
guns and haven't had a single jam with either. Staples are good for
thin plywood as they provide much better tear out resistance. They're
also good for fabric, cardboard, hardboard, screen, hardware cloth.
Art
Rich
I like having the 16 and 18 gauge nailers. They sell these in combo's with
the Air Compressors. Porter Cable comes to mind. I do a lot of trim,
casement and cabinet work and I use these 2 nailers all the time, I'd be
lost without them. Time is Money! Thought about a stapler but haven't really
found an application where I'd use it. I don't do a lot with MDF most is ply
hardwood and Poplar.
Josepi
can shoot 2.5" nails with "T" heads and do a decent job and they won't fall
off like the smooth 18 Ga. toys.
They will also shoot 18 gauge brads ("L" shaped heads) for smaller jobs
until the glue dries.
I have about 6 of the 18 Ga. anilers. They give them a way with every
compressor and accessorie package. The 16 Ga units you have to pay for as
they actually work well.
"Pistol_Pete" <Pisto...@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:994e76c1-a73d-4fff...@y11g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
Larry W
2 things: The combination stapler/nailers generally leave a larger "dimple"
when used with brads than with the brad-only nailers. Not a big deal
if they are only used in non-visible areas but more of a PITA if you
are going to fill & finish over the brads.
Staples would be far superior to brads for attaching plywood backs to
bookcases or cabinets (assuming again that the backs will be out of
sight against a wall) It doesn't take much force for slight-head brads
to pull right through plywood. If you are gluing the backs on it
won't matter.
--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
HeyBub
Yeah, it's big enough. Once you start using it, you'll wonder how you did
without it. You can use it for installing baseboard trim and quarter-round.
The brads seem to have microscopic serrations to prevent them from coming
out - they are harder to remove than a plain nail.
Think about the head on a staple it is MUCH larger than the head on a
finishing nail or brad. You'd use it where you need a gigantic head for
cardboard, veneers, thin plywood, paper, cloth, etc.
Steve B
"Pistol_Pete" <Pisto...@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:994e76c1-a73d-4fff...@y11g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
It goes like this: Once you get one, you will find out that one does not go
all things. Depending on what other things you do, you will probably end up
with several. Each will do a specific duty, and do it to perfection, but
the other will either be overpowered or wimpy. It is difficult to advise
you what you need, because there are so many variables. You'll find out.
The good thing is that they are not very expensive at pawn shops and yard
sales, and even if you want to splurge at retail, they do such a good
quality of work that you will wonder how you ever got along without one.
You may have one that is only good for one very very specific task. That's
the difference between a hacker and a craftsman. Using just the right tool.
Steve
visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
Steve B
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
thankful.
Larry Jaques
For tiny trim pieces, use a 23ga pin nailer. For everything else, the
18ga is fine. I'm not a fan of the thicker 15ga nailers because they
split trim and for heavy duty fastening, I like either headed nails or
screws (my preference.)
http://tinyurl.com/25sbsgx pinner $18
http://tinyurl.com/29bok9f stapler/nailer $20 (I've owned one for 8
troublefree years now and had a plain brad nailer for 5 before that.)
>Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
>for? Upholstery? Insulation?
I use a 1/2" crown stapler for upholstery, and occasionally the 1/4"
crown for screening and metal fabric fastening.
http://tinyurl.com/26g79e4 1/2" crown $20 (5 troublefree years now)
Larry Jaques
<pittma...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
>Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
>thankful.
See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.
The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.
Steve B
"Larry Jaques" <lja...@invalid.diversify.com> wrote in message
news:gt0v56h1ku46gt04b...@4ax.com...
If you like shit, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that. Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.
allen476
> "Larry Jaques" <ljaq...@invalid.diversify.com> wrote in message
Actually I have an HF Pin nailer and it works fine. I also have an off
brand 18ga. brad nailer and 1/4" crown stapler that I picked up on
clearance when Woodworkers Supply went out of business. The only
problem I have ever had with either of them is that the brads
sometimes jam when loading partial strips. Otherwise they have served
10+ years without a complaint.
Sometimes it isn't the tool, it is what you are using with it. I only
use Porter-Cable or Bostich brads, staples, or pins.
Allen
J. Clarke
If you're making your living with a nailer then perhaps there's some
noticeable difference between the expensive brands and Harbor Freight,
but for the average hobbyist or homeowner Harbor Freight air tools work
fine.
Do you actually own a Harbor Freight nailer or are you trying to justify
your own overspending?
Steve B
"J. Clarke" <jclarke...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:i3oor...@news2.newsguy.com...
I have several HF products, and they are marginal because they don't last as
long as brand names. They work, but they don't last, or the mechanisms
become sloppy. As for overspending, I have bought new or almost new brand
names at a local pawn shop for less than HF wants for theirs. Last thing I
bought was a like new Karcher 2650OH 6hp Honda power washer for $50 with 50'
of hose and five tips. HEAVY Rockwell 12" table saw $40. Craftsman 1.5 hp
router, table, and set of 40 bits, $60. Skil 2 wheel bench grinder $15.
All better than any HF comparable. BTW, I got a BRAND new PC pancake
compressor, and two nail guns, and a pin nailer, all NEW, for $125 for the
set, speaking of nailers.
Overspend? Who, me? Naw.
I did splurge yesterday for a Torx folding set for $8.
StephenM
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/nailers-staplers/18-gauge-2-inch-brad-nailer-66995.html
I dod not like it because for two reasons:
1. Periodic jams
2. No plastic nose protector.
Number 2 is the real reason why I own a bostich now. When installing door
or window casings, it would leave a slight divot on the molding from just
depressing the nose to enable the firing mechanism.
To me, that was unacceptable. It's not an issue for the backs of a cabinet,
but a big deal on interior trim.
-Steve
"Larry Jaques" <lja...@invalid.diversify.com> wrote in message
news:gt0v56h1ku46gt04b...@4ax.com...
RonB
#1 I used an 18ga for several years before I bought a 15ga for
heavier work. The 18 is a good, all around nailer for day to day shop
work and holding things together until glue dries. Granted, 22ga is
better for trim work but the 18ga can handle slightly heavier jobs
too. If you are going to hang a lot of trim I would recommend a 15ga
nailer.
#2 Staples are a nice add-on but I would opt for a good 18# nailer and
then go for a cheapo stapler. In addition to my Porter Cable 18ga and
Bostich 15ga I sprung for a 18ga nailer/stapler a few years ago at
Harbor Freight. Not the same quality as the other two but it gets the
job done, proven durable; and it cost $20 at one of their entry
display sales.
RonB
J. Clarke
> I had one of these:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/nailers-staplers/18-gauge-2-inch-brad-nailer-66995.html
>
> I dod not like it because for two reasons:
>
> 1. Periodic jams
> 2. No plastic nose protector.
>
> Number 2 is the real reason why I own a bostich now. When installing door
> or window casings, it would leave a slight divot on the molding from just
> depressing the nose to enable the firing mechanism.
>
> To me, that was unacceptable. It's not an issue for the backs of a cabinet,
> but a big deal on interior trim.
Now, that is useful information. Rare in HF threads. Mine's never
jammed but I do get the divot. Never been a big deal for me because I
countersink the brad and putty over it and smoothing the putty gets the
divot too, but I can see where it would be a problem if you're doing a
clear finish.
J. Clarke
Is any of them an air nailer?
> They work, but they don't last, or the mechanisms
> become sloppy.
After how many cycles?
> As for overspending, I have bought new or almost new brand
> names at a local pawn shop for less than HF wants for theirs. Last thing I
> bought was a like new Karcher 2650OH 6hp Honda power washer for $50 with 50'
> of hose and five tips. HEAVY Rockwell 12" table saw $40. Craftsman 1.5 hp
> router, table, and set of 40 bits, $60. Skil 2 wheel bench grinder $15.
> All better than any HF comparable. BTW, I got a BRAND new PC pancake
> compressor, and two nail guns, and a pin nailer, all NEW, for $125 for the
> set, speaking of nailers.
Whether a Craftsman router is better than Harbor Freight is debatable.
But I don't see where you have the same tools from HF and another brand,
so on what basis do you compare?
> Overspend? Who, me? Naw.
Yeah, clearly you're a cheapskate.
keit...@gmail.com
I just picked up their 23ga pin nailer for $18, with a coupon,
yesterday. I also have an HF wide crown stapler that really works
well. The only thing that concerned me is the lack of a safety. I
had to keep that in mind when I was crawling around in the attic
stapling insulation.
EXT
"Rich" <ri...@spamalot.com> wrote in message
news:i3njpq$11v$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Don't buy a combination. If you need both, buy separate guns.
Regarding air staplers, I bought one using 1/4" wide crown staples for
putting some 1/4" thick backs on a cabinet. Didn't think I would use it
much. Found it to be one of the handiest guns in the shop. The first one was
only up to about 1" long, I have added another that takes 1 1/2" staples. I
use either one for many jobs that I never thought I would. Stapling plywood
underlay down to the floor with long staples every 4" -- it goes real fast.
I even installed strapping on the ceiling by using long staples and firing
about 5 to 6 at every joist -- again it goes fast and saves my poor shoulder
from hammering upward while holding both nail and strapping at the same
time. To see if it would be strong enough, I lifted and held my 230 pound
body by one of the straps to see if they would hold -- they did. I have
found that when holding power is needed, staples out hold brads, so where
appearance is not needed, I always reach for the staple gun.
Leon
"Steve B" <pittma...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:65d4j7-...@news.infowest.com...
Actually you should buy what suites you. I world not buy Porter Cable or
DeWalt, I prefer the more refined and dependability of Senco, Bostitch, and
Grex although I also own Craftsman which has performed admirably every time
I have used it in the last 15 years and I do have the HF brand for
occasional use. Perhaps some day you will move up from PC or DeWalt. :~o
Robatoy
They only sting a little.........or so I'm told.
StephenM
> Now, that is useful information.
Thankyou.
Rare in HF threads. Mine's never
> jammed but I do get the divot. Never been a big deal for me because I
> countersink the brad and putty over it and smoothing the putty gets the
> divot too...
Painted... but still a problem for me as the nail hole takes filler well
but a dent, not so much. Anyway about it, its more work to arive at a decent
final finish
-Steve
Leon
"Josepi" <JRM.@easynews.com> wrote in message
news:iII7o.52137$3%3.1...@newsfe23.iad...
> Get a 16 Ga nailer. If you want to put baseboards on other heavy trim on
> you
> can shoot 2.5" nails with "T" heads and do a decent job and they won't
> fall
> off like the smooth 18 Ga. toys.
Jeez , a finish nailer is a toy compared to a framing nailer, might as well
recomend a framing nailer cause it will shoot 3 inch nails in case you want
to build a house. For the light weight work that the OP mentioned, a finish
nail would probably be way too much and he would run the risk of splitting
the trim.
Buy the gun that is best suited for the job at hand, not for what you migh
need it for in the future.
Robatoy
> "Josepi" <J...@easynews.com> wrote in message
To do things right, you need a selection.
Leon
"Robatoy" <counte...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:e4089e03-89a5-4625...@i31g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 9, 11:51 am, "Leon" <lcb11...@swbell.dotnet> wrote:
> "Josepi" <J...@easynews.com> wrote in message
To do things right, you need a selection.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Gunrack.jpg
Imaheadofyou LOL... I think a coiled roofing nailer is the only gun I
don't have. Pneumatic Framer, Finish, Brad, Pinner, Stapler, Palm.
Robatoy
> "Robatoy" <counterfit...@gmail.com> wrote in message
Now you really have me beat. All I have now is a 16ga Paslode and
buying a Grex pinner.
Puckdropper at dot
3RnZ2dnUV...@giganews.com:
>
>
> Imaheadofyou LOL... I think a coiled roofing nailer is the only gun I
> don't have. Pneumatic Framer, Finish, Brad, Pinner, Stapler, Palm.
Lowes has a kit that includes all but the pinner. Decent quality, but not
for day-in-day-out type work. They do jam occasionally, but it's not every
other nail like some of the other cheap ones.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
Martin H. Eastburn
on the backs of book cases. The 1/4" wood back into a 3/8" cutout.
Staples (Quality Stainless steel please!!) are used in roofing.
(non SS last a few years before letting go.)
I have a box nail gun - board - does up to 3 1/2" (IIRC) headed nail.
They are the coil nailers and are often used in roofing. (sheet works).
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
wrote:
You can test that theory and get back.
Swingman
>
> To do things right, you need a selection.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Gunrack.jpg
Like your gun rack. May have to steal the idea.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
>On 8/9/2010 11:09 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>>
>> To do things right, you need a selection.
>>
>> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Gunrack.jpg
>
>Like your gun rack. May have to steal the idea.
Yep, that's a keeper.
Bill
> Lowes has a kit that includes all but the pinner. Decent quality, but not
> for day-in-day-out type work. They do jam occasionally, but it's not every
> other nail like some of the other cheap ones.
>
> Puckdropper
FWIW, bought the PowerShot manual stapler (Model 5700M) which is also
capable of using 9/16 and 5/18 finish nails. I've run over a box (1250
3/8" staples) through it, and it has not jammed once. That is good
because it appears there are 2 or 3 screws that need to be removed "in
the rare event" that it does jam. The string in quotes is from the
instructions. The stapler is $19.99 at Lowes but I saw it on sale
Menards recently for about $14.99. It did what I needed it to do (put
up some insulation).
Bill
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
I bought an Arrow CT50 LiIon stapler to do some insulation work. What a total
waste of money! It won't even stick a 1/2" staple into SYP. The safety makes
it totally useless. That was a Franklin down the tubes.
whit3rd
wrote:
> I bought an Arrow CT50 LiIon stapler to do some insulation work. What a total
> waste of money! It won't even stick a 1/2" staple into SYP.
So, get 1/4" staples. SYP is 'southern yellow pine', I trust?
In toughness, it comes in at 470 in-lbf, a little higher than red
oak at 440 in-lbf. Half inch staples in that wood isn't an easy
test.
Steve B
I'm a shopper. I don't buy cheap equipment, and then brag on just the
price. Cheap tools aren't good, and good tools aren't cheap. YMMV, and
sounds like it does. Shit is shit, no matter the brand name.
CW
<k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote in message
news:f07166t26ivi7p6la...@4ax.com...
Bet it is as good as the corded one I have. It will staple cardboard to
cardboard. That's about it.
Morgans
"whit3rd" <whi...@gmail.com> wrote
So, get 1/4" staples. SYP is 'southern yellow pine', I trust?
In toughness, it comes in at 470 in-lbf, a little higher than red
oak at 440 in-lbf. Half inch staples in that wood isn't an easy
test.
And I would add that the above hardness rating is when it is relatively new.
Once it has been installed for a couple years, it gets twice as hard.
(unscientific difficultly to drive a nail into old SYP)
I agree, get the 1/4" staples. There is no stapler made that will drive a
1/2" staple in that stuff.
Oh, and to the O.P. : You can send that stapler to me, if you don't like
it! ;-)
--
Jim in NC
Josepi
roll of toilet paper. They work great for stapling sheeting down but for
baseboards and casings you need something that doesn't just hold until the
glue dries. That takes some length on the fastener into real wood framing
studs, not caulking to hold the baseboard on. With a 3/4" baseboard and 1/2"
drywall on a slight angle you need one and a half inches of brad or pin to
reach the framing. Now if you are OK with 1/4" of smooth pin holding you
baseboard into a rough piece of spruce framing, twisting as it dries out
than all you need is 1.75" pins and heads are required as there is no
pulling ability anyway.
Get the 16Ga Paslode, as suggested by Robatoy and use it for 18Ga pretend
nails until the glue dries. You will have a nailer for trimming rooms and
actually holding thing together, also.
Next somebody can explain how they held 5.1/2" crown moulding up with the
23Ga cat whisker pins until the PL400 dried...LOL
"Robatoy" <counte...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:0e50f84f-4bcb-45c0...@i31g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
Morgans
"Martin H. Eastburn" <lion...@consolidated.net> wrote
I have a box nail gun - board - does up to 3 1/2" (IIRC) headed nail.
They are the coil nailers and are often used in roofing. (sheet works).
tWith the guns I have, the coil guns used for roofing generally use larger
headed nails, and therefore a wider spacing in the coil. I have coil
framing nailers, and coil roofing nailers, and a wide crown roofing stapler.
The last one has been sitting since I got the coil roofing nailer. I
wouldn't use a roofing staple on a doghouse. They set to an inaccurate
depth, far too often, or back out. That is my experience with them, at
least. That was with a roof sheathing consisting of random width SPF 1 by
material. They are better in OSB or plywood, but when they hit a rafter or
truss, they will often not set as deep as is necessary, causing the roofing
applier to crawl back on a roof to renail several shingles-for years to
come. DAMHIKT! :-(
--
Jim in NC
Puckdropper at dot
news:0L28o.60850$lS1....@newsfe12.iad:
*snip*
>
> Next somebody can explain how they held 5.1/2" crown moulding up with
> the 23Ga cat whisker pins until the PL400 dried...LOL
Ask the guy who built the wall over at Doug's place.
Larry Jaques
<pittma...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <lja...@invalid.diversify.com> wrote in message
>news:gt0v56h1ku46gt04b...@4ax.com...
>> On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
>> <pittma...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
>>>Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
>>>thankful.
>>
>> See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.
>>
>> The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
>> want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
>> brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.
>
>
>If you like shit, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that. Some
>day you'll work up to quality tools.
Poor Steve. You just don't realize that -most- tools, including all
your pricy name-branded schtuff, are made in China _anyway_, and are
then priced 4x up for the name-brand. If you want to waste your money
for a label, go right ahead. Some day you'll wise up. ;)
For daily/critical tools, I buy known better products, such as the
Bosch and Makita impactors. For the rest, I buy decent tools for a
lot less money and they work flawlessly for me.
Larry Jaques
<pittma...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>"J. Clarke" <jclarke...@cox.net> wrote in message
>news:i3oor...@news2.newsguy.com...
>> On 8/9/2010 12:35 AM, Steve B wrote:
>>> "Larry Jaques"<lja...@invalid.diversify.com> wrote in message
>>> news:gt0v56h1ku46gt04b...@4ax.com...
>>>> On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
>>>> <pittma...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
>>>>> Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will
>>>>> be
>>>>> thankful.
>>>>
>>>> See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.
>>>>
>>>> The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
>>>> want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
>>>> brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.
>>>
>>>
>>> If you like shit, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that.
>>> Some
>>> day you'll work up to quality tools.
>>
>> If you're making your living with a nailer then perhaps there's some
>> noticeable difference between the expensive brands and Harbor Freight, but
>> for the average hobbyist or homeowner Harbor Freight air tools work fine.
>>
>> Do you actually own a Harbor Freight nailer or are you trying to justify
>> your own overspending?
>
>I have several HF products, and they are marginal because they don't last as
>long as brand names. They work, but they don't last, or the mechanisms
>become sloppy. As for overspending, I have bought new or almost new brand
>names at a local pawn shop for less than HF wants for theirs. Last thing I
>bought was a like new Karcher 2650OH 6hp Honda power washer for $50 with 50'
>of hose and five tips. HEAVY Rockwell 12" table saw $40. Craftsman 1.5 hp
>router, table, and set of 40 bits, $60. Skil 2 wheel bench grinder $15.
>All better than any HF comparable. BTW, I got a BRAND new PC pancake
>compressor, and two nail guns, and a pin nailer, all NEW, for $125 for the
>set, speaking of nailers.
You realize that all those items were boosted out of the back of
someone's garage or truck the night before, don't you? Pawn shops are
notorious for hot items, and the prices indicate that in your (LV,
right?) area.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
wrote:
Price is only loosely correlated with good.
Larry Jaques
And if that's the case, he could buy 3 and sell them for $10 each (or
donate them somewhere) when they slop out. He's still below the
name-brand price tag. 3ea HF nailers and 3ea 5k boxes of nails cost
less than a single Bostich or PC nailer.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
>
>"whit3rd" <whi...@gmail.com> wrote
>
>So, get 1/4" staples. SYP is 'southern yellow pine', I trust?
>In toughness, it comes in at 470 in-lbf, a little higher than red
>oak at 440 in-lbf. Half inch staples in that wood isn't an easy
>test.
It's what the Borg and Lowes here sell for dimensional lumber.
>And I would add that the above hardness rating is when it is relatively new.
>Once it has been installed for a couple years, it gets twice as hard.
>(unscientific difficultly to drive a nail into old SYP)
>
>I agree, get the 1/4" staples. There is no stapler made that will drive a
>1/2" staple in that stuff.
My old spring stapler does just fine, as does the HF pneumatic stapler. This
thing is *WIMPY*.
>Oh, and to the O.P. : You can send that stapler to me, if you don't like
>it! ;-)
Send me the $100, otherwise I'll put it in someone's garage sale and hope for
$5. ;-) ...or the garbage, if I have to look at it too many more times.
Larry Jaques
>On 8/9/2010 11:09 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>>
>> To do things right, you need a selection.
>>
>> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Gunrack.jpg
>
>Like your gun rack. May have to steal the idea.
Hey, _that_ is no systainer.
Robatoy
Thankee..Handy thing that. Maple ply, taped edges.
Hoosierpopi
I found the18 GA nail gun to be a bit light and went with the 15 GA
for case work. But the 18 GA would work for tri - but those who do a
lot of fine trim work would likely recommend the lighter GA pin
nailer. No heads as I understand it so less putty/filler and
sanding . . . If you can only afford the one, a good 18GA 'l do ya
Hoosierpopi
OH, make SURE your guns have a DEPTH ADJUSTMENT!
> Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
> for? Upholstery? Insulation?
Not for insulation - well, if the depth adjustment allows you to set
on and not drive through the paper backing I suppose it would work. I
use a hammer stapler T50's 3/16 deep for installing insulation in
walls.
They work where nails work. I've used them everywhere I can imagine.
I've ONLY used quarter-inch crown staples in a pneumatic gun. And, I
suspect, that is the kind used by guns that shoot either brads or
staples.
One caution, they can "blow a leg out" and surprise you - and, then,
getting them out is tough.
Nova
I recently had my roof professionally replaced. They used the staplers
with 3.5" staples to attach plywood sheeting only. A coiled roofing
nailer was used for the shingles.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
nov...@verizon.net
Josepi
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:4c60ca85$0$14423$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
J. Clarke
The packaging on the 50 year GAF shingles I put on my garage a couple of
years back stated explicitly that the warranty was void if they were
attached with staples.
Josepi
too easily.
Even power nailers area problem with the two layer shingles. The impact past
the edge of the second layer tend to rip through the upper layer where the
hollow spot is. Warranty void again.
"J. Clarke" <jclarke...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:i3rlt...@news7.newsguy.com...
Leon
"Josepi" <JRM.@easynews.com> wrote in message
news:0L28o.60850$lS1....@newsfe12.iad...
>I used all those 18Ga toys they supply with every pneumatic compressor and
> roll of toilet paper. They work great for stapling sheeting down but for
> baseboards and casings you need something that doesn't just hold until the
> glue dries. That takes some length on the fastener into real wood framing
> studs, not caulking to hold the baseboard on. With a 3/4" baseboard and
> 1/2"
> drywall on a slight angle you need one and a half inches of brad or pin to
> reach the framing. Now if you are OK with 1/4" of smooth pin holding you
> baseboard into a rough piece of spruce framing, twisting as it dries out
> than all you need is 1.75" pins and heads are required as there is no
> pulling ability anyway.
Who in the world are you responding to?
The OP did not ask about attaching base board to a wall. He wants to attach
trim to a furniture. Again a finish nail gun on furniture may be your cup
of tea along with distressed furniture, which is what you are going to get
if you build furniture with a finish nail gun.
>
> Get the 16Ga Paslode, as suggested by Robatoy and use it for 18Ga pretend
> nails until the glue dries. You will have a nailer for trimming rooms and
> actually holding thing together, also.
And I again ask why not go with a framing nailer and be done with it??
Max
>
> Poor Steve. You just don't realize that -most- tools, including all
> your pricy name-branded schtuff, are made in China _anyway_, and are
> then priced 4x up for the name-brand. If you want to waste your money
> for a label, go right ahead. Some day you'll wise up. ;)
>
> For daily/critical tools, I buy known better products, such as the
> Bosch and Makita impactors. For the rest, I buy decent tools for a
> lot less money and they work flawlessly for me.
Yabbut, Lar, there's no cachet value in those chea.....uh.........low
pric.........uh......implements.
I wear a disguise when I go to HF.
Max
Josepi
posted, instead of attempting a moronic overexageration distraction.
My recommendation stands.
"Leon" <lcb1...@swbell.dotnet> wrote in message
news:362dnZu-14GKXvzR...@giganews.com...
Who in the world are you responding to?
The OP did not ask about attaching base board to a wall. He wants to attach
trim to a furniture. Again a finish nail gun on furniture may be your cup
of tea along with distressed furniture, which is what you are going to get
if you build furniture with a finish nail gun.
Larry Jaques
wrote:
>"Josepi" <JRM.@easynews.com> wrote in message
>
>Who in the world are you responding to?
Uh, Leon. Josepi is a troll. PDFTFT.
Larry Jaques
wrote:
I happily shop both Wally World and Harbor Fright without disguises,
you total _wuss_, you.
Josepi
PDFTFT
"Larry Jaques" <lja...@invalid.diversify.com> wrote in message
news:mq6466l4b8v301rf1...@4ax.com...
Uh, Leon. Josepi is a troll. PDFTFT.
--
Have your accounts been removed by other's complaints?
Do you like to force your opinions on others?
Do you need to use multiple names due to shame and fear?
Better rates for those requiring anonymity to survive!
******** easynews.com, trolling made easy **********
Leon
> Perhaps you need to reread the OP's questions and try to stay on the topic
> posted, instead of attempting a moronic overexageration distraction.
>
> My recommendation stands.
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.
You reread it, I reposted it above for your convenience.
I think a finish nailer would be a moronic exageration for any of the above.
Leon
Yeah, I am starting to realize this, I certainly hope he never has any
thing of value to say as I am going to miss it.
Josepi
latest posts have been so valuable. Now remember you didn't see this.
LOL
"Leon" <lcb1...@swbell.dotnet> wrote in message
news:aLmdncvTtfDjPP_R...@giganews.com...
Jack Stein
> I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
> and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
> them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
> building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
> using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
> backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
> it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
> be adjustable.
I recently bought the 18g pin nailer/stapler from HF
I rarely had a need for an air nailer in my shop, or a stapler, but have
always wanted one for just what you are wanting to do. I read in here
all about the HF stuff, some good, some bad. My brother bought the
above nailer for some bee hives he was making, and a friend of his
recommended the HF. I told him I had read (here) they were ok, but
don't get the combo. He said he had no problems with it... so, I bought
one.
When I got it home, I tested it out, first shooting some 1 3/16 pin
nails... Worked fine. Then, put in stables and it jammed... I though
damn, this sucks, but when I cleared the jam, it was a pin and a staple
that jammed, and apparently, when I removed the nails, I left one in the
firing mechanism, and the staple and pin both fired at once, jamming the
gun. Since then, I've only used it a few times, about 500 pins and no
jamming.
> I really know nothing about brad sizes.
18g is skinny and won't split much of anything. I first built a bird
house and bird feeder ( only thing I could think of other than trim I'd
use a nailer for) and I shot pins into the edges of 3/8" lumber and no
splits. More of a problem is pins shooting out the sides if it hits
something like a knot, or your aim is not straight.
The pins hold fairly well, the bird stuff I used no glue, and they feel
solid. Other than that, the pins are way too weak for anything
structural. They would be good for nailing backs on cabinets.
As far as pinning until the glue dries... nah, I like clamps. Nails
require putty, something I avoid as much as possible. A more
appropriate use would be nailing a template, say for a shaper or bandsaw
pattern.
If I don't buy any air nailer,
> I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
> course)
I never glue on a back, always just use nails. Perfect use for a pin
nailer.
but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
Yes, unless you manage to shoot a nail out the side, or get a jam...
> I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
> but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
> built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
> the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.
I bought 1 3/16th pins, figuring I could pin 2 3/4" boards together.
> Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
> for? Upholstery? Insulation?
Staples are used for lots of stuff. I bought 1/2" and will probably need
longer ones. Haven't used the stapler yet, other than to test it out.
I would definitely buy the HF stapler/nailer combo above for
intermittent use in a home shop. If you do it for a living, say a trim
carpenter, you would not be asking:-)
I liked it so much, I built a $50 case to store it in.
--
Jack
Those who trade liberty for security have neither.
John Adams
http://jbstein.com
Jack Stein
> I'm a shopper. I don't buy cheap equipment, and then brag on just the
> price. Cheap tools aren't good, and good tools aren't cheap. YMMV, and
> sounds like it does. Shit is shit, no matter the brand name.
I generally agree with you but there are a lot of exceptions. The HF
air nailer is one of them if you are a cabinet maker. Personally, I
would rather go to a bar and have a beer than nail the shit out of
everything like Norm does on TV. He pins everything after slopping on a
bottle of glue. I like to clamp things, using just enough glue. This
means I don't really NEED a pin nailer much and will not likely EVER
wear out my HF nailer, although it might rust some between uses.
Here is another exception, imo: http://tinyurl.com/2bul22m
This is a HF ratchet clamp. Is it junk, yep, but for a few bucks it's a
great deal, particularly since I know exactly what about it is junk,
(couple of plastic parts in the handle) and that I can quickly and
easily refurbish it so it is not junk, and for the cost of one machine
screw and some glue I have a clamp that does everything I expect for
next to nothing so I could buy 20 of them for the price of one or two
top dollar clamps.
Another exception, on the other end, is Festool stuff. Is it good, I
reckon it is, but at what a cost? Do I really need to spend $800 on a
Festool Router?
Lastly, if you don't own and use a HF nail gun, you probably shouldn't
argue with people that do own one.
--
Jack
It's "We the People" not We the the Congress!
http://jbstein.com
tiredofspam
exchanged, but for a $1.99 I felt it was worth the risk.
I have both porter cable and HF nailers and staplers. The porter cable
are good, but overpriced after using the HF. My HF have performed well.
I am glad I finally took the plunge on them. I kept buying the more
expensive nailers and staplers.
Jack Stein
> I paid $1.99 for that same clamp. A couple were no good and had to be
> exchanged, but for a $1.99 I felt it was worth the risk.
Same here, except instead of exchanging the clamp, I took the handle
apart to see what broke.
One broke when the cheap ass plastic pin the trigger rotated on broke.
I drilled a hole through the handle and the trigger and put in a flat
head machine screw. Will not break now and works great.
Next, there is a cheesy plastic rocker that pushes the clamp along the
metal bar. This is not supported and will also break. I super glued it
back on, and piled up some glue behind the plastic tab to give it
additional support. This seems to have worked OK. I keep telling my
self to do this to my unbroken clamps to prevent it from breaking to
begin with... maybe tomorrow...
Both these issues are designed into the clamp and would have increased
the cost of the clamp by about two cents to do it right.
--
Jack
News Flash: Government Motors (GM) fines their top competitor $16 Mil.
http://jbstein.com
> I have both porter cable and HF nailers and staplers. The porter cable
> are good, but overpriced after using the HF. My HF have performed well.
>
> I am glad I finally took the plunge on them. I kept buying the more
> expensive nailers and staplers.
My only issue with the nailer is the thing works so well I'm turning
into a hack like Norm... It sure is easy to pin the shit out of
everything rather than screw it or clamp and glue it...