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Priming over Screw Heads
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Sear...@mail.con2.com
Nov 19, 2012, 7:30:53 PM11/19/12
to
I'm about to prime some plywood that is screwed and glued into place.
I used a hand-held counter-sink and then wood filler before sanding, and everything is smooth to the touch.
The thing is though I cannot feel any imperfections I can slightly see a couple of screw heads and was wondering if it is recommended that I should dig them out and countersink deeper before replacing, filling, and sanding again. (After priming and painting it'll be covered with thin vinyl anyway).
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
I used a hand-held counter-sink and then wood filler before sanding, and everything is smooth to the touch.
The thing is though I cannot feel any imperfections I can slightly see a couple of screw heads and was wondering if it is recommended that I should dig them out and countersink deeper before replacing, filling, and sanding again. (After priming and painting it'll be covered with thin vinyl anyway).
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Mike Marlow
Nov 19, 2012, 10:05:29 PM11/19/12
to
sunken? If they are proud - can you just sand down further?
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Larry Jaques
Nov 20, 2012, 12:29:53 AM11/20/12
to
On Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:30:53 -0800 (PST), Sear...@mail.con2.com
wrote:
Yes, you should probably do that, Darren. It's safer than trying to
just tighten them a hair more, refill, and resand. If you can see
them with or without primer, you'll be able to see them through the
vinyl. It telegraphs any blemishes and debris horribly. Wipe the
area with thinner or alcohol to get it wet. That shiny look brings out
the worst in surfaces so you can see every blem. It also cleans off
anything which would deter a good finish.
Primer can fill small dents and scratches, but it won't cure proud
screw heads.
--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein
wrote:
just tighten them a hair more, refill, and resand. If you can see
them with or without primer, you'll be able to see them through the
vinyl. It telegraphs any blemishes and debris horribly. Wipe the
area with thinner or alcohol to get it wet. That shiny look brings out
the worst in surfaces so you can see every blem. It also cleans off
anything which would deter a good finish.
Primer can fill small dents and scratches, but it won't cure proud
screw heads.
--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein
Sear...@mail.con2.com
Nov 20, 2012, 1:10:46 AM11/20/12
to lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com
I brushed a little primer over the area and I can no longer tell where the screw is.
Lee Michaels
Nov 20, 2012, 1:38:09 AM11/20/12
to
<Sear...@mail.con2.com> wrote
>
> I'm confused. What do you me by "Proud"?
>
Proud is a term that is used to describe something sticking above the
> I'm confused. What do you me by "Proud"?
>
surface. Some things are put together proud and then sanded down.
Mike Marlow
Nov 20, 2012, 6:36:59 AM11/20/12
to
Sear...@mail.con2.com wrote:
>
> I'm confused. What do you me by "Proud"?
>
> I brushed a little primer over the area and I can no longer tell
> where the screw is.
>
Proud is a term used to mean that the area sticks up higher, or protrudes
>
> I'm confused. What do you me by "Proud"?
>
> I brushed a little primer over the area and I can no longer tell
> where the screw is.
>
from its surrounding area. Wet the area with water and look at it while wet
and shiney. The gloss from the water will give you a better idea what the
area is really like. If there are low spots or high spots, you will see
them much better than what the dull surface of primer will show. I would
not use any type of solvent on the primer as it will degrade the primer
and/or remove it. Trust your eyes more than your hands until your hands
really learn the knack of feeling a surface for very minor imperfections.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Swingman
Nov 20, 2012, 7:37:18 AM11/20/12
to
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
Steve Turner
Nov 20, 2012, 10:35:10 AM11/20/12
to
On 11/20/2012 6:37 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/20/2012 12:38 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>>
>>
>> <Sear...@mail.con2.com> wrote
>>>
>>> I'm confused. What do you me by "Proud"?
>>>
>> Proud is a term that is used to describe something sticking above the
>> surface. Some things are put together proud and then sanded down.
>
> Not unlike a "woodie" ... making some prouder than others.
I was proud of myself until you said that.
> On 11/20/2012 12:38 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>>
>>
>> <Sear...@mail.con2.com> wrote
>>>
>>> I'm confused. What do you me by "Proud"?
>>>
>> Proud is a term that is used to describe something sticking above the
>> surface. Some things are put together proud and then sanded down.
>
> Not unlike a "woodie" ... making some prouder than others.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Sear...@mail.con2.com
Nov 20, 2012, 12:53:51 PM11/20/12
to
But even if the screw head is perfectly level with the rest of the surface, does just being able to see it mean I have to dig it out and start over by making the counter sink deeper?
Mike Marlow
Nov 20, 2012, 1:32:23 PM11/20/12
to
Sear...@mail.con2.com wrote:
>
> Well, like I mentioned the area is smooth to the touch and I cannot
> fell any imperfections after I filled and sanded.
>
> But even if the screw head is perfectly level with the rest of the
> surface, does just being able to see it mean I have to dig it out and
> start over by making the counter sink deeper?
>
Not necessarily. The pupose of using the water is to make the area shine so
>
> Well, like I mentioned the area is smooth to the touch and I cannot
> fell any imperfections after I filled and sanded.
>
> But even if the screw head is perfectly level with the rest of the
> surface, does just being able to see it mean I have to dig it out and
> start over by making the counter sink deeper?
>
that you can see if it is proud or if it is low. You can then take the
necessary steps to address that. If you can see the circumfrance of the
filler and it is just a hair line, then primer may well fill that in, and
you can sand that to blend into the surrounding surfaces. I don't know if
your vinyl will telegraph such a thing - it depends on how thick the vinyl
is.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Larry Jaques
Nov 20, 2012, 4:36:19 PM11/20/12
to
On Mon, 19 Nov 2012 22:10:46 -0800 (PST), Sear...@mail.con2.com
wrote:
>On Tuesday, November 20, 2012 12:29:52 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:30:53 -0800 (PST), Sear...@mail.con2.com
>>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> >I'm about to prime some plywood that is screwed and glued into place.
>>
>> >
>>
>> >I used a hand-held counter-sink and then wood filler before sanding, and everything is smooth to the touch.
>>
>> >
>>
>> >The thing is though I cannot feel any imperfections I can slightly see a couple of screw heads and was wondering if it is recommended that I should dig them out and countersink deeper before replacing, filling, and sanding again. (After priming and painting it'll be covered with thin vinyl anyway).
>>
>> >
>>
>> >Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes, you should probably do that, Darren. It's safer than trying to
>>
>> just tighten them a hair more, refill, and resand. If you can see
>>
>> them with or without primer, you'll be able to see them through the
>>
>> vinyl. It telegraphs any blemishes and debris horribly. Wipe the
>>
>> area with thinner or alcohol to get it wet. That shiny look brings out
>>
>> the worst in surfaces so you can see every blem. It also cleans off
>>
>> anything which would deter a good finish.
>>
>>
>>
>> Primer can fill small dents and scratches, but it won't cure proud
>>
>> screw heads.
>>
>
means "sticking up above the surface".
>I brushed a little primer over the area and I can no longer tell where the screw is.
After it's dry, spray it with water and look from the side with a
light source behind it. If it's going to show, it will from that
angle when it's wet and glossy. It's your call, but I'd be careful
about the smoothness of all the repair work. There's no going back
once you stick the vinyl on. If these are going into a kick-around
gaming house for kids, I wouldn't worry about it. But since you're
spending the ducats for the whole vinyl renovation, I thought I'd
mention it.
wrote:
>On Tuesday, November 20, 2012 12:29:52 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:30:53 -0800 (PST), Sear...@mail.con2.com
>>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> >I'm about to prime some plywood that is screwed and glued into place.
>>
>> >
>>
>> >I used a hand-held counter-sink and then wood filler before sanding, and everything is smooth to the touch.
>>
>> >
>>
>> >The thing is though I cannot feel any imperfections I can slightly see a couple of screw heads and was wondering if it is recommended that I should dig them out and countersink deeper before replacing, filling, and sanding again. (After priming and painting it'll be covered with thin vinyl anyway).
>>
>> >
>>
>> >Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes, you should probably do that, Darren. It's safer than trying to
>>
>> just tighten them a hair more, refill, and resand. If you can see
>>
>> them with or without primer, you'll be able to see them through the
>>
>> vinyl. It telegraphs any blemishes and debris horribly. Wipe the
>>
>> area with thinner or alcohol to get it wet. That shiny look brings out
>>
>> the worst in surfaces so you can see every blem. It also cleans off
>>
>> anything which would deter a good finish.
>>
>>
>>
>> Primer can fill small dents and scratches, but it won't cure proud
>>
>> screw heads.
>>
>
>I'm confused. What do you me by "Proud"?
That's where they stick their little heads up. "Proud of the surface"
means "sticking up above the surface".
>I brushed a little primer over the area and I can no longer tell where the screw is.
light source behind it. If it's going to show, it will from that
angle when it's wet and glossy. It's your call, but I'd be careful
about the smoothness of all the repair work. There's no going back
once you stick the vinyl on. If these are going into a kick-around
gaming house for kids, I wouldn't worry about it. But since you're
spending the ducats for the whole vinyl renovation, I thought I'd
mention it.
Sear...@mail.con2.com
Nov 20, 2012, 9:05:10 PM11/20/12
to
I just didn't know if the *primer* would work just as well on top of the screw head as on the filler or wood itself.
Larry Jaques
Nov 21, 2012, 1:31:04 AM11/21/12
to
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 18:05:10 -0800 (PST), Sear...@mail.con2.com
wrote:
>Well, since there is nothing to telegraph, thanks to the filler and sanding, that's not an issue. It's as smooth as glass even though I was able to see part of the screw heads.
OK, good.
>I just didn't know if the *primer* would work just as well on top of the screw head as on the filler or wood itself.
Since they were sanded, they should have enough tooth to hold the
primer and paint down, and the vinyl will protect that even better.
Go for it.
wrote:
>Well, since there is nothing to telegraph, thanks to the filler and sanding, that's not an issue. It's as smooth as glass even though I was able to see part of the screw heads.
>I just didn't know if the *primer* would work just as well on top of the screw head as on the filler or wood itself.
primer and paint down, and the vinyl will protect that even better.
Go for it.
Sear...@mail.con2.com
Nov 27, 2012, 4:40:15 PM11/27/12
to lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com
As a warning to others I noticed that even after two of three applications the Elmers wood filler I use still continues to shrink no matter what hole or crack I'm putting it in.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Woodworking%20Projects/ShrinikngWoodFiller.jpg
(I'm assuming that primer would puddle in and fill it up anyway).
Mike Marlow
Nov 27, 2012, 5:07:22 PM11/27/12
to
Sear...@mail.con2.com wrote:
>
> I just noticed something else.
>
> As a warning to others I noticed that even after two of three
> applications the Elmers wood filler I use still continues to shrink
> no matter what hole or crack I'm putting it in.
Any chance there is cutting oil on the screw head in that location? New
>
> I just noticed something else.
>
> As a warning to others I noticed that even after two of three
> applications the Elmers wood filler I use still continues to shrink
> no matter what hole or crack I'm putting it in.
screws often have an oil coating on them. That would prevent the filler
from adhearing. I have some of that Elmers wood filler laying around and I
don't like it. It does not apply well, it always wants to pull out as I
knife it in, and it shrinks way more that I think it should. For something
like you have there, I would have either mixed up some very fine sawdust and
wood glue into a filler-like paste, and applied that, or I would have used
autobody filler. But - I have autobody filler around all of the time since
I do that kind of work from time to time.
>
> (I'm assuming that primer would puddle in and fill it up anyway).
>
but it will shrink over the period of a month or two and it will be very
apparent where it is, through your vinyl. Guaranteed. I'd dig out the
Elmers crap and apply some sawdust and glue - but first make sure the screw
head does not have any oil on it.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Lew Hodgett
Nov 27, 2012, 5:30:33 PM11/27/12
to
<Sear...@mail.con2.com> wrote:
I just noticed something else.
As a warning to others I noticed that even after two of three
applications the Elmers wood filler I use still continues to shrink no
matter what hole or crack I'm putting it in.
If you want to cut to the chase, use epoxy fairing putty made from
laminating epoxy thickened with micro-balloons to the consistency of
mayonnaise.
Wet out the surfaces with straight laminating epoxy followed by
fairing putty applied proud.
When the rest of the box has returned to dust, the epoxy repair will
still be "ticking". (Remember the Timex commercials?)
Lew
Larry Jaques
Nov 27, 2012, 10:44:46 PM11/27/12
to
On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 13:40:15 -0800 (PST), Sear...@mail.con2.com
wrote:
>I just noticed something else.
>
>As a warning to others I noticed that even after two of three applications the Elmers wood filler I use still continues to shrink no matter what hole or crack I'm putting it in.
>
>http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Woodworking%20Projects/ShrinikngWoodFiller.jpg
I recommended Bondo because it sticks to metal, it's flexible, and it
doesn't mind hiding under paint or vinyl. (I really dislike standard
wood fillers.)
>(I'm assuming that primer would puddle in and fill it up anyway).
Yes, and sanding it puts it flush.
--
Good ideas alter the power balance in relationships, that is why
good ideas are always initially resisted. Good ideas come with a
heavy burden. Which is why so few people have them. So few people
can handle it.
-- Hugh Macleod
wrote:
>I just noticed something else.
>
>As a warning to others I noticed that even after two of three applications the Elmers wood filler I use still continues to shrink no matter what hole or crack I'm putting it in.
>
>http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Woodworking%20Projects/ShrinikngWoodFiller.jpg
doesn't mind hiding under paint or vinyl. (I really dislike standard
wood fillers.)
>(I'm assuming that primer would puddle in and fill it up anyway).
--
Good ideas alter the power balance in relationships, that is why
good ideas are always initially resisted. Good ideas come with a
heavy burden. Which is why so few people have them. So few people
can handle it.
-- Hugh Macleod
Mike Marlow
Nov 27, 2012, 10:55:16 PM11/27/12
to
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 13:40:15 -0800 (PST), Sear...@mail.con2.com
> wrote:
>
>> I just noticed something else.
>>
>> As a warning to others I noticed that even after two of three
>> applications the Elmers wood filler I use still continues to shrink
>> no matter what hole or crack I'm putting it in.
>>
>> http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Woodworking%20Projects/ShrinikngWoodFiller.jpg
>
> I recommended Bondo because it sticks to metal, it's flexible, and it
> doesn't mind hiding under paint or vinyl. (I really dislike standard
> wood fillers.)
>
>
>> (I'm assuming that primer would puddle in and fill it up anyway).
>
> Yes, and sanding it puts it flush.
And with that much primer fill, a short time puts it sunken.
> On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 13:40:15 -0800 (PST), Sear...@mail.con2.com
> wrote:
>
>> I just noticed something else.
>>
>> As a warning to others I noticed that even after two of three
>> applications the Elmers wood filler I use still continues to shrink
>> no matter what hole or crack I'm putting it in.
>>
>> http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Woodworking%20Projects/ShrinikngWoodFiller.jpg
>
> I recommended Bondo because it sticks to metal, it's flexible, and it
> doesn't mind hiding under paint or vinyl. (I really dislike standard
> wood fillers.)
>
>
>> (I'm assuming that primer would puddle in and fill it up anyway).
>
> Yes, and sanding it puts it flush.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Sear...@mail.con2.com
Nov 28, 2012, 10:24:00 PM11/28/12
to
They are probably not even a millimeter deep and about the width of the slot of a Philips head screw.
Mike Marlow
Nov 28, 2012, 10:35:37 PM11/28/12
to
Sear...@mail.con2.com wrote:
>
> I think you're over-estimating the size of the indentations.
>
> They are probably not even a millimeter deep and about the width of
> the slot of a Philips head screw.
>
Perhaps. I thought that the chunk missing looked deeper than that in the
>
> I think you're over-estimating the size of the indentations.
>
> They are probably not even a millimeter deep and about the width of
> the slot of a Philips head screw.
>
picture.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
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