Removing stainless steel trim head screws

[Dick Snyder]

Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless
steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my
power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless
steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease
the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution.
The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric
sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when
my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool
collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet
brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace.
Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip?

TIA.

Dick Snyder
Souothborough, MA

[Ed Pawlowski]

Wow, I just looked at the price of a ratchet brace and was surprised.
Mine is about 50 years old and rarely used.

I do have a thought. How about a T handle used to hod a tap? If you
give the screw a turn or so, will that loosed it enough to come out with
the power drill and not break?

[Unquestionably Confused]

Along the same lines (more or less), how about an adjustable torque
impact driver? I have a little Bosch 12v that really does a nice job
removing and setting screws. You can adjust the force applied (on or
off) and I find that little bit of vibration - just enough to rock its
world but not enough to torque it off - usually does the trick.

[-MIKE-]

My first thought would be a stripped screw extractor.
They work pretty well and you can get fairly fast at it.

Are you removing/replacing the decking boards?
If so, why not cut the screws off underneath the decking?
A sawzall with a bi-metal blade would make quick work of it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

[Larry Kraus]

Get a T-10 bit with a standard 1/4" base. Or shim the one you have.

[J. Clarke]

On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder <dicks...@gmail.com>
wrote:

A couple of options come to mind:

Lowes has in stock for pickup today (in the several stores nearest
Southborough, MA) a 1/4" drive T-10 torx socket item 338200 model
85998 for $1.98. It's Kobalt brand, have no idea how well it will
hold up, but you should be able to use it with your socket set more
conveniently than a hex bit.

Lee Valley has for $11.50 an adapter that holds 1/4" hex bits in a _4_
point brace, which if you don't have one are available for cheap on
Amazon ($12-30 range for Chinese).

[Clare Snyder]

On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder <dicks...@gmail.com>
wrote:

try an impact driver

[Spalted Walt]

Dick Snyder <dicks...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless
> steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my
> power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless
> steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease
> the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution.
> The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric
> sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when
> my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool
> collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet
> brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace.
> Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip?
>

> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
> Souothborough, MA

<https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-1-4-in-x-1-7-8-in-Shockwave-Magnetic-Nut-Driver-Bit-3-Pack-49-66-4522/202653629>

Break the screws loose by hand with a ratchet & 1/4" socket, then use the drill/magnetic nut driver/T-10 to remove.

[Markem]

>On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder <dicks...@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>>Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless
>>steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my
>>power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless
>>steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease
>>the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution.
>>The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric
>>sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when
>>my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool
>>collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet
>>brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace.
>>Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip?
>>

>>TIA.
>>
>>Dick Snyder
>>Souothborough, MA

Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace
1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the
slack.

[Spalted Walt]

+1

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-speed-handle-62700.html

if needed: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-high-visibility-socket-adapter-set-62851.html

[Clare Snyder]

On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:

what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and
available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well
and are even cheaper.

[Markem]

On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:

Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was
just suggesting ideas.

[Clare Snyder]

On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem <mark...@hotmail.com>

I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT
simpler

[DerbyDad03]

A wise man once said to me "If you are working too hard, you are probably
using the wrong tool."

[whit3rd]

On Sunday, September 2, 2018 at 7:22:04 AM UTC-7, southborough_man wrote:
> Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless

> steel trim head screws from a deck... the stainless

> steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease
> the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out

> Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip?

Well, for a deck you'd be comfortable standing on, I'd get some
iron pipe and fit a T handle to one end, and weld a T-10 shank,
or the shank of a screwdriver that accepts T-10 bits, to the
other end. If you don't have welders, epoxy and wood
can make a suitable handle.

Yeah, it's a bit of work, but hunched over at floor level
is not my idea of quality time...

[Markem]

On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 21:01:51 -0400, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca>

Okay be as you will be, but right may not be what someone has.

[DerbyDad03]

But right is something that one can often get.

The OP has indicated a willingness to purchase/borrow the right tool, so
he's certainly not limited to using only what he has.

[Dick Snyder]

This is a good idea. I am replacing the deck boards but am unable to cut
off anything below. If I can get t-10 with a standards base, I would be
able to use my stanard socket wrench which will get the job done quickly.

Thanks.

Dick

[Dick Snyder]

On 9/2/2018 10:21 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:

Thanks to all who replied. This rec is always so helpful. After reading
all replies, my plan is to get a T-10 bit with a standard 1/4" base
which will work with my socket set. Loosening the screws will go quickly
then. Once I back them out a couple of turns I can remove them without
any breakage.

Thanks again all!

Dick Snyder

[Markem]

[Markem]

On Mon, 3 Sep 2018 05:25:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

I offered a suggestion, Clare Snyder questioned me, I denigrated no
ones ideas by making a suggestion.

[Clare Snyder]

On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 00:10:31 -0500, Markem <mark...@hotmail.com>

As easy and cheap as it is to have the right tool there REALLY is no
excuse to bodge things. And the right tool will be usefull for MANY
other jobs as well.

Generally speaking, Snyders like havingthe right tools on hand.

[Clare Snyder]

On Mon, 3 Sep 2018 08:31:53 -0400, Dick Snyder <dicks...@gmail.com>
wrote:

Dick,
I'd suggest (as in strongly recommend) getting the 1/4" bit holder
instead - lets you use ANY 1/4 hex type bit in the future - and if you
damage your T10 bit you only need to replace the bit - not the whole
(much more expensive) 1/4 inch square drive assembly.

It's up to you, but this is experience talking (and yes, I'm a bit of
a tool Junkie)
Clare Snyder
Waterloo Ontario

[Markem]

On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 11:06:03 -0400, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca>

I have torx that fit a 3/8s drive so that would be my right tool.

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

>
> As easy and cheap as it is to have the right tool there REALLY is no
>excuse to bodge things. And the right tool will be usefull for MANY
>other jobs as well.
>

.. and he might already have it - hiding right in plain sight -
if he has a ~ 150 piece socket set < who doesn't >
John T.

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

> Dick,
>I'd suggest (as in strongly recommend) getting the 1/4" bit holder
>instead - lets you use ANY 1/4 hex type bit in the future - and if you
>damage your T10 bit you only need to replace the bit - not the whole
>(much more expensive) 1/4 inch square drive assembly.

> Clare Snyder


Good point.
.. and you might need an assortment of bits,
to go with that nice new bit holder ... :-)

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=75946&cat=1,43411,43417&ap=1

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=70158&cat=1,43411,43417&ap=2

John T.

[Clare Snyder]

On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 10:45:57 -0500, Markem <mark...@hotmail.com>

No arguement there - and you can use your speed handle if you have
one - without a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer.

[Clare Snyder]

And if he DOESN'T, mabee he should be watching forwhen they come up
on sale - - - -

[Clare Snyder]

and for Lee Valley stuff that is a GOOD price. Up here when Canadian
Tire has a sale you can beat that price - but not by a lot.

[Markem]

On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 12:40:09 -0400, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca>

Actually I probably would not be that patient, bust the heads off the
screws and get out the pry bar, use a hammer the break off what is
left and finally the sink what is left with same hammer. But that is
not what the OP asked.

[Puckdropper]

Dick Snyder <dicks...@gmail.com> wrote in
news:BIidnZiv2t6ebxbG...@giganews.com:

> Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200
> stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I
> have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off
> because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice
> grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to
> find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any
> of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too
> tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken
> the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be
> a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find
> a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my
> vice grip?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
> Souothborough, MA
>
>

In some cases, you can hammer a bit into a screw head to get better
grip. The stainless will deform just a bit and you should be able to
back the screw out slowly.

Bits are consumables, so don't be afraid to buy 25 or 100 of them at one
time. They'll stay good forever in a drawer assuming you don't have
moisture issues.

Bit holders are also consumables. They have a magnet or retaining wire
(PITRE) which helps a lot.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

[Jack]

On 9/3/2018 8:31 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:

> Thanks to all who replied. This rec is always so helpful. After reading
> all replies, my plan is to get a T-10 bit with a standard 1/4" base
> which will work with my socket set. Loosening the screws will go quickly
> then. Once I back them out a couple of turns I can remove them without
> any breakage.

Often with stuck screws smacking the screw driver with a hammer will
loosen the screw enough to torque it out. Impact drill/driver also work
well to ease out screws. Also, combining methods with a $15 impact
screwdriver:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679

Just about always works.

I have a deck I built 25 years ago using the same deck screws you did.
Wolmanized lumber shrinks around the screw when it dry's out, making it
next to impossible to get the screws out without extraordinary measures.



--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

[John Grossbohlin]

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
news:BIidnZiv2t6ebxbG...@giganews.com...

>Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless
>steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my
>power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless

You might try tightening them a little before trying to back them out...
That approach has solved a lot of removal problems for me in the past. On
the other hand, it might just break the head off which leads to another
possible solution!

Another option is to break all the heads off, pry the board off and then
back out the screws by chucking them in a drill. That has worked for me
too. Alternatively, break the heads off, pry the board off, and bend the
remaining screw over... some may snap off some my not. If you are replacing
the deck boards the remains of the screws will be hidden.

[DerbyDad03]

I think that trying to chuck 200 "screw remains" in a drill would be a real
pain. Close, open, close, open, over and over again. I think cutting them
flush with any one of various tools would be quicker/easier.

[John Grossbohlin]

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:a92bf9b4-0b99-4b63...@googlegroups.com...

No matter what, this job is going to be tedious... If he wants complete
removal the drill is the way to go. Otherwise bend them over or as you
suggest cut them off...

I've run into situations where replacing the framing was the best option as
removing the old decking and fasteners was not working out well at all and
my time was worth far more than the cost of the new materials.

[Leon]

Regardless of the head or the condition of the head I find that an
impact driver typically removes a stuck screw quick.