Jet Cabinet Saw Wiring
arthur beaman
The saw is 230 volt single phase. Problem is there are only three 14ga.
wires coming from the cabinet, one black (hot), one white (neutral), one
green (ground).
I called the tech line to see if the white lead gets hooked up as a
hot lead. They said no, but to wire it as 110 volt( the white remains
neutral). In other words only one hot lead. I do not see how this could
work for 230 volt saw.
Just wondering if any of you guys who own one of these saws wired it
in the 110 volt mode that recommend have had any power problems.
TIA
Jack Beaman
Bernie Hunt
Call that man back right away and find out how he's going to run you 230V
saw on 110!
I have a JTAS-10XL. If you have the same, then look at page 23 of the
manual. Mine is dated 10/97 on the bottom right hand corner of the cover.
This drawing clearly shows the black and white leads as both being hot legs.
They are tied to T1 & T3 respectively. (Look at the next page and it shows a
three phase wiring where T2 is also hot.)
My opinion is that Black and White are the two hot legs and Green is ground.
I'm not an electrician, I'm an electrical engineer, so don't take my word
for it. Call Jet back and see if they agree with my interpritation of the
schematic on page 23.
Bernie
PS: That's how mine is wired and the smoke has not come out of the motor
yet.
arthur beaman <bea...@blast.net> wrote in message
news:39EB70B8...@blast.net...
Leon
"Bernie Hunt" <bh...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:8sfsla$gbp$1...@bob.news.rcn.net...
arthur beaman
I have the same manual and your explanaition of the T1 &T3 sounds correct so I
will be wiring the white lead as being a hot leg also. This is the way I thought
it should have been wired from the start, but I just wanted confirmation from
Jet. When I spoke to the tech she said she did not know about the electrical
aspect so she had to ask someone else. That raised a flag so I figured someone
here would have the answer I was looking for.
Thanks,
Jack
Walt Akers
Think before you take action on this. If your saw is like my Jet (I've
got
the left tilt cabinet saw) all of the actual wiring took place before the
saw
got to me and there was a 'plugless cable' hanging out of the machine. If
your
saw is like this, then the wiring has already been completed and the ONLY
thing
you need to do is...
1) Install a 230V 20 or 30 Amp plug onto the cable.
2) Make a 230V 20 or 30 Amp extension cord.
3) Plug it into your 230V 20 or 30 Amp outlet.
4) Begin sawing.
As always remember to follow all of the instructions when you install the
plugs on your saw and the extension cord. In reality, you can save a
buck or two by splicing wires onto the existing cable and just having one
plug... But, in my experience, you're better off making an extension cord
that you can share between multiple 230V appliances (if necessary).
Walt - I gotta git down...
arthur beaman wrote:
> I just purchased a Jet cabinet saw (JTAS-10XL) over the weekend.
> The saw is 230 volt single phase. Problem is there are only three 14ga.
> wires coming from the cabinet, one black (hot), one white (neutral), one
> green (ground).
> I called the tech line to see if the white lead gets hooked up as a
> hot lead. They said no, but to wire it as 110 volt( the white remains
> neutral). In other words only one hot lead. I do not see how this could
> work for 230 volt saw.
> Just wondering if any of you guys who own one of these saws wired it
> in the 110 volt mode that recommend have had any power problems.
>
> TIA
> Jack Beaman
--
---------------------------------------------------
Walt Akers
- ak...@twisted-oaks.org
- http://www.twisted-oaks.org
---------------------------------------------------
Eric Tonks
wire connects to "neutral" for 120 volt circuits ---- except when you need
to run 240 volts, then the white wire becomes a "hot" wire, technically one
is supposed to paint or wrap tape around the white wire to change it to
black or red or any colour but white or green. 240 volt motors don't need a
neutral.
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Bernie Hunt wrote in message <8sfsla$gbp$1...@bob.news.rcn.net>...
>Arthur,
>
>Call that man back right away and find out how he's going to run you 230V
>saw on 110!
>
>I have a JTAS-10XL. If you have the same, then look at page 23 of the
>manual. Mine is dated 10/97 on the bottom right hand corner of the cover.
>
>This drawing clearly shows the black and white leads as both being hot
legs.
>They are tied to T1 & T3 respectively. (Look at the next page and it shows
a
>three phase wiring where T2 is also hot.)
>
>My opinion is that Black and White are the two hot legs and Green is
ground.
>I'm not an electrician, I'm an electrical engineer, so don't take my word
>for it. Call Jet back and see if they agree with my interpritation of the
>schematic on page 23.
>
>Bernie
>PS: That's how mine is wired and the smoke has not come out of the motor
>yet.
>
>arthur beaman <bea...@blast.net> wrote in message
>news:39EB70B8...@blast.net...
Paul Proefrock
I suspect the "technician" didn't realize you were working with a 230 volt
unit.
I just wired mine last weekend. Black & White are hot and green is neutral.
If you buy a 230Volt, 20amp plug, it will only have three connectors in it.
If you need a comfort level, call tech support back and question them again.
I am certain you will get another answer.
Paul P
Eric Tonks
connect to neutral, the green wire ONLY connects to ground, another green
wire, a bare wire or the ground screw in the box or the ground screw on the
plug or receptical. ONLY the white wire connects to neutral, and in the case
of a 240 volt circuit there is no need for a neutral wire. In this case the
white is connected to the other "hot" terminal, normally a black or red wire
is used for this but when a black or red is not available the white can be
used. Technically it should be recoloured with paint or tape to show that it
is "hot".
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Paul Proefrock wrote in message ...
Bernie Hunt
iron is grounded.
Bernie
Eric Tonks <eto...@sunstorm.com> wrote in message
news:gEZG5.13377$x81.2...@news2.rdc1.on.home.com...
> Be careful of the advise you give if you don't know. The green wire does
NOT
> connect to neutral, the green wire ONLY connects to ground, another green
> wire, a bare wire or the ground screw in the box or the ground screw on
the
> plug or receptical. ONLY the white wire connects to neutral, and in the
case
> of a 240 volt circuit there is no need for a neutral wire. In this case
the
> white is connected to the other "hot" terminal, normally a black or red
wire
> is used for this but when a black or red is not available the white can be
> used. Technically it should be recoloured with paint or tape to show that
it
> is "hot".
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> -----------
> Paul Proefrock wrote in message ...