Stripping bark from cedar for rustic furniture
mmlas...@hotmail.com
for rustic furniture? Sometimes the inner layers
stick...currently using a sharp paring knife, but my had and
wrist really hurt the day after working. Will soaking
branches cause them to crack when they dry? Is oil useful?
Is there a modern tool that would be my 'dream come true'?
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MrRefundo
>stick...currently using a sharp paring knife, but my had and
>wrist really hurt the day after working. Will soaking
>branches cause them to crack when they dry
I recall a tool called a fr??? that is like a hoe with a sharp edge that ya
wedge under
bark-then tap other end with a hammer to strip off bark! Checkout old hand
tools or Roy Underhill or Roy Underwood ...
Joey Lowe
news:3d62bb3b....@woodworking.com...
> Is there an easy way to strip bark from cedar, etc. branches for rustic
furniture?
The short answer is yes, a sharp tool. I'm currently stripping cedar
ranging in size from 1" diameter up to 8" in diameter. The nice thing about
cedar is that most of the bark will peel off rather easy. As for tools, I
use a chip carving knife that is razor sharp for most of the peeling. I
also use a drawknife that is also razor sharp. The drawknife is especially
useful for those branches that are full of the small knots. The knife goes
right over the knots without a problem. Another area that may be giving
those wrists a hard time concerns how you are holding the branches that you
are stripping. If the branches are small, I typically clamp a small board,
about 3" proud of the top of my bench to form a small "wall" in which to
brace the branch against whilst peeling. If the branch is larger, say for
the rear leg of a chair or for a bedpost, I use a holddown on my bench.
Thus my wrists don't take a beating. Without plugging any particular brand
or store, Woodcraft has a sale on pretty decent drawknives right now. The
Flex brand comes already sharpened and goes for around $15.00 USD.
--
Regards,
Joey Lowe
"Working towards perfection has to be a part of anything one does. You've
got to put yourself into it." ... Sam Maloof (chairmaker)
bridger
>>ayers
>>stick...currently using a sharp paring knife, but my had and
>>wrist really hurt the day after working. Will soaking
>>branches cause them to crack when they dry
>
>I recall a tool called a fr???
froe?
George
Modified Bodger's bench will hold the pieces safely when peeling.
If you cut the cedar in summer, the bark will almost fall off if you cover
it with a tarp and let is sit a couple weeks. Bacteria and fungi will do
for the cambium.
"bridger" <n...@spam.please> wrote in message
news:i346mu0u3ougctg4j...@4ax.com...
Andy Dingley
> Is there a modern tool that would be my 'dream come true'?
A calendar (or watching the weather). Do it in Spring when the sap is
up, the cambium is soft and it peels off easily.
You can also use a "bark spud", a tool like a cross between a spade
and a hoe, used by pushing. Once you've started, always finish a log
down to the wood, as bark left to dry out gets harder to strip.
A froe is different - it's like a thin blunt axe, used for splitting
along the grain.
Jana
Hi. I wouldn't call it a modern tool, but try a draw knife. these are
available from vandykes for around $50. Here is the link.
www.vandykes.com Good luck, Jana
Jana
woops, I just thought of another tool that may be helpful. Try a knife
that is used to cut the frogs out of horse hooves. Sharpen it with a
rat tailed file. The guys in Northern MN use those to work diamond
willow. You can get them from the local farm store for about $4. If
you don't have a farm store, try Jeffors.
The URL is www.jeffors.com Jana
Donald Cranstone
I've never tried to strip the bark from cedar branches, only from
logs. Too early in the spring it is difficult to strip, as it is later
in the summer. However, it strips very easily if it is cut down and
stripped without much delay in late spring - early summer. I've used
either a chisel to get the bark loose at one end of the log, or a
drawknife. Once the logs have dried out, stripping becomes much more
difficult.
Don
Cutsquare
carcinogenic, are any special precautions needed or would you have to work with it for
fifty years? Is there any listing of woods that you can expect a reaction from?
Weldon Wilson
http://www.righteouswoods.net/safety.html
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis33.htm
My main problem with cedar is that it causes problems with my asthma.
Use a dust collector and a dust mask or particulate respirator and you
shouldn't have problems.
See: http://www.osha-slc.gov/SLTC/respiratory_advisor/air_pure_vs_atmos_supp/air_pure_resp/air_pure_resp.html
Weldon
Cutsquare <gl...@verizon.net> wrote in message news:<3D644277...@verizon.net>...
NOSPAMBOB
In article <3D644277...@verizon.net>, Cutsquare <gl...@verizon.net>
writes:
>Is there any listing of woods that you can expect a reaction from?
>
Name works for E-mail
MonkeyBoy
It is a nice wood to work with all in all, but the biggest problem is
that it produces a very fine dust. The dust is more like powder than
typical sawdust. This stuff can really go airborn. I had an air
cleaner running in my shop and after working with this cedar the
pre-filter turned orange/brown.
So, my advice - and I'm sure it's obvious - is to use the best dust
mask you can afford (make sure it fits snuggly), run a dust collector
and an air cleaner when working with this wood. I think if you're
just doing a project or two with it there's no huge danger. Most of
the reports I read on it referred to mill workers, exposed to it day
in and day out. Just my two cents.
- MonkeyBoy
Glen
Glen
"NOSPAMBOB" wrote
> http://www.oneida-air.com/toxic.htm
>
NOSPAMBOB
In article <ak52pc$v7l$1...@nntp9.atl.mindspring.net>, "Glen"
<gkr...@ix.netcomNOSPAM.com> writes:
>I get a not-found error. Has anyone else had success on this link?
Name works for E-mail
reneeo...@gmail.com
https://northernwoodlands.org/articles/article/peeling_logs
Michael
> For riving. Drawknife will do for cedar, don't need a big bark spud.
> Modified Bodger's bench will hold the pieces safely when peeling.
>
> If you cut the cedar in summer, the bark will almost fall off if you cover
> it with a tarp and let is sit a couple weeks. Bacteria and fungi will do
> for the cambium.
>