>
>
>I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint thinner and
>I get congeal mixtures???
>
>How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
>
>
follow the directions on the can?
Good luck
Rob
--
http://www.robswoodworking.com
<bri...@thanks.com> wrote in message
news:aqc3o05af3mpm97qj...@4ax.com...
>
>
>I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint thinner and
>I get congeal mixtures???
Did you get a can of water based poly? That is what the reaction
sounds like. I don't know if Minwax makes water base, but...
>
>How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
Mineral spirits should be the preferred option. I can't recall how
much you can thin it. The ratio is probably listed on the can. That
being said, I've thinned poly by 50% or more to get a mixture that
will soak deep into the wood. It works very well for hardening pine
desktops.
Tim Douglass
The can says not to thin it though.
dwhite
>On Fri, 29 Oct 2004 03:58:32 GMT, patriarch
><<patriarch>gma...@nospam.comcastDOTnet> wrote:
>
snip
>
>I did not mixed the Polyurethane as I got it dirt cheap at an estate sales. When
>I opened the lid there is a thin harden layer, I add about 5% volume minerals
>spirit and cover it for 24 hrs. Hopping the minerals sprit will melt it. The
>next day I got congeal mixture, below the harden top layer!
>
>There are not instruction of thinning, but cleaning with either minerals spirit
>or paint thinner. The instruction printed on the can "Do Not Shake" in bold
>letter, "Stir slowly......" why?
So as to not induce air bubbles in the poly. Shaking will produce
small air bubbles that will mess up your finish.
Thunder
>
What used to be my favorite mix (until I started using Waterlox) 1/3 minwax
poly, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 watco oil. If you are just going to thin to
a wipeable consistancy, only go about 30% on the mineral spirits.
Otherwise, you will need to use alot of coats to build up the material. Or
get smart and use Waterlox like I do <g>
SH
>I did not mixed the Polyurethane as I got it dirt cheap at an estate sales. When
>I opened the lid there is a thin harden layer, I add about 5% volume minerals
>spirit and cover it for 24 hrs. Hopping the minerals sprit will melt it. The
>next day I got congeal mixture, below the harden top layer!
May just be too old to be worth messing with. I incurred my
Father-In-Law's wrath when I cleaned out the old paints and stuff from
his shop. Some of those cans (half full) were more than 50 years old!
I actually had to send some of it off to the hazardous waste facility
because it was lead based.
Basically, if it is older than a year or so just chuck it and buy new.
Tim Douglass
> I did not mixed the Polyurethane as I got it dirt cheap at an estate sales. When
> I opened the lid there is a thin harden layer, I add about 5% volume minerals
> spirit and cover it for 24 hrs. Hopping the minerals sprit will melt it. The
> next day I got congeal mixture, below the harden top layer!
Polyurethane is a reactive finish. It cures by reacting with the oxygen in the
air. Once it has reacted it can not be redissolved.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
> What is Waterlox and where can you buy them?
It is a tung oil based finish.
You can buy online at www.waterlox.com or www.amazon.com carries it too I
believe. I bought my last quart at Woodcraft.
SH
What is it you like about Waterlox? I've heard good things about it,
but would value your opinion.
Dan White: I've read that finish manufacturers have reduced VOCs as
ordered by the feds, and in order to comply, must label the can not to
thin, since that would raise the VOCs and therefore, supposedly, air
pollution.
Thanks, Gary. I have to get started on my own poly project. I'm starting
with the oil based Minwax though. I've got hard maple butcher block and am
going to try some linseed oil at first, followed by maybe 3 coats of thinned
gloss poly, finishing with a coat of maybe slightly thinned satin poly.
dwhite
Geroge Barns <gba...@fries.com> wrote:
>On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 02:34:42 GMT, "Dan White" <dwhi...@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>Have you try Minwax waterbase polyurethane, are they water resistance (ie, water
>resistance, after it dry)?
>
>I check HD today they have Minwax for outdoor, can you comment that too?
>By the way what is VOCs?
> Have you try Minwax waterbase polyurethane, are they water resistance (ie,
water
> resistance, after it dry)?
Yes.
>
> I check HD today they have Minwax for outdoor, can you comment that too?
I use their Helmsman Spar Urethane and have had good results with it.
> By the way what is VOCs?
Volitile Organic Compounds. This is the stuff that evaporates and may
pollute the air.
Good Luck.
"Geroge Barns" <gba...@fries.com> wrote in message
It basically goes on like my home brew but is better. And I like the fact I
don't have to mess around mixing it. Another plus is the shelf life is
better than my home brew. It is very easy to use and rubs out excellent.
It is just a great product imho. Buy a quart and try it. You won't be
dissapointed. It comes in Gloss, Original (sheen is equivalant to
Semigloss), and Satin.
SH
Why not just use Minwax wiping polyurethane? You don't get the quick (thick)
build that you get with the regular Minwax poly--which may or may not be an
advantage--and it does wipe on nicely.
John
I was wondering the same thing as I read throught these. Is he thinning to
restore older product, wanting to spray or what? We have a lot of answers
but I don't fully understand the question.