Any performance difference between 12V and 14.4V drill?
Mike Hardy
whether or not a 14.4V cordless drill really has more power/torque than
a 12V (same make) or does 14.4V simply provide longer running time? I
recently bought a 12V Makita that seems pretty capable but on a fresh
charge I stripped the heads of a couple #12x3" wood screws trying to run
them into pre-drilled holes in the edge of 3/4" plywood. I figured it
might be because I didn't have the torque to keep driving the screws.
Manufacturer ratings show a 15% increase in torque for 14.4V (330in/lbs)
compared to 12V (290in/lbs) but reading through a tool test on the web
(http://www.toolsofthetrade.net), they measured 199in/lbs of torque for
a 12V and only 202in/lbs for the 14.4V. The 12V/14.4V Makita, DeWalt
and Porter-Cable all had similar numbers for torque.
Does someone have direct experience with this? If all I get with a
14.4V is longer runtime I'm going to keep the 12V.
Thanks...
------------------------------
Mike Hardy
AlphaServer Development Group
Digital Equipment Corporation
Maynard, MA 01754
mike.hardy!NO-SPAM!@digital.com
------------------------------
Auntie Em: Hate you, hate Kansas; took the dog - Dorothy
Jonesey
the battery lasts longer.
If you are twisting off the heads before they seat try drilling a larger or
deeper pilot. In plywood? Must be really poor quality screws or screws
designed to break away. If they are breaking after seating reduce the
torque setting. Hoping my 12v dies soon to give me reason to buy a new one.
Think I'll get the 18v.
Mike Hardy <mike.hardy!NO-SPAM!@digital.com> wrote in message
news:36868A88...@digital.com...
George Nazarko
factors are the wood and the screws, not my 9.6V Makita's torque. I snap
the screws with too high a clutch setting, or drive them too far into the
wood. Suspect you may think a bit and concede the same. Battery life
depends on state of charge, temperature, battery condition, and battery
capacity in milliamp hours. This for NiCd. Further confuse the issue by
reminding you that the newer Nickel metal hydride batteries provide greater
energy density and longer running.
In my experience stripping heads is caused by improper driver size, or too
much torque for applied downward pressure.
Mike Hardy wrote in message <36868A88...@digital.com>...
Stuart Wheaton
Mike Hardy wrote:
> After reading through DN posts I haven't found a conclusive answer as to
> whether or not a 14.4V cordless drill really has more power/torque than
> a 12V (same make) or does 14.4V simply provide longer running time? I
> recently bought a 12V Makita that seems pretty capable but on a fresh
> charge I stripped the heads of a couple #12x3" wood screws trying to run
> them into pre-drilled holes in the edge of 3/4" plywood. I figured it
> might be because I didn't have the torque to keep driving the screws.
The head of the screw stripped because the friction between the driver
and the screw was less than the friction between the screw and the plywood.
I would urge you to investigate square drive screws, far more bit holding
power. I routinely drive #8x3" square drive screws into ply edges or 2x
without any predrilling and have almost no stripping (usual cause of
stripping--worn bit)
> Manufacturer ratings show a 15% increase in torque for 14.4V (330in/lbs)
> compared to 12V (290in/lbs) but reading through a tool test on the web
> (http://www.toolsofthetrade.net), they measured 199in/lbs of torque for
> a 12V and only 202in/lbs for the 14.4V. The 12V/14.4V Makita, DeWalt
> and Porter-Cable all had similar numbers for torque.
I place far more trust in a head to head comparison by someone other than
the manufacturer. Why would they want to mislead you? The manufacturer has
all sorts of reasons, besides, the tester probably published the conditions
they used, and most manufacturers seem to pull these numbers out of thin
air. OK I know they get 'em somewhere, but do they really apply to real
life use? NO!!
> Does someone have direct experience with this? If all I get with a
> 14.4V is longer runtime I'm going to keep the 12V.
>
You won't even get longer run time for sure, the run time is dependant on
the ampacity of the battery pack, If the 14.4 comes with the puniest pack
to keep the price down, an upgrade to your 12 V of $60 or so will probably
beat it in run time.
Of course the 14.4v will be heavier, and bigger, and may take longer to
charge, so if you don't actually need to carry it around all day, but just
have it to impress the people with the puny 12v gear, I say go for it.....it
is your back and your ego. ;-)
> Thanks...
>
> ------------------------------
> Mike Hardy
> AlphaServer Development Group
> Digital Equipment Corporation
> Maynard, MA 01754
>
> mike.hardy!NO-SPAM!@digital.com
> ------------------------------
>
> Auntie Em: Hate you, hate Kansas; took the dog - Dorothy
Hope this helps
Stuart
Safe,Fast, Cheap--pick any two.
Ottis
Something like that?
I have sworn off any nail, screw or bolt sold in bulk by these places. I've
never broken, bent and messed up more hardware than when I got it like this.
bob.
Mike Hardy wrote in message <36868A88...@digital.com>...
>After reading through DN posts I haven't found a conclusive answer as to
>whether or not a 14.4V cordless drill really has more power/torque than
>a 12V (same make) or does 14.4V simply provide longer running time? I
>recently bought a 12V Makita that seems pretty capable but on a fresh
>charge I stripped the heads of a couple #12x3" wood screws trying to run
>them into pre-drilled holes in the edge of 3/4" plywood. I figured it
>might be because I didn't have the torque to keep driving the screws.
>
>Manufacturer ratings show a 15% increase in torque for 14.4V (330in/lbs)
>compared to 12V (290in/lbs) but reading through a tool test on the web
>(http://www.toolsofthetrade.net), they measured 199in/lbs of torque for
>a 12V and only 202in/lbs for the 14.4V. The 12V/14.4V Makita, DeWalt
>and Porter-Cable all had similar numbers for torque.
>
>Does someone have direct experience with this? If all I get with a
>14.4V is longer runtime I'm going to keep the 12V.
>
>
Mark Thieme
I read a review a coupla months ago where someone was describing the
difference between the Dewalt line of 12-14-18 V products.
The determination was that the differences were meager.
In the end, the reviewer prefered the 18V - more is better...and also
more expensive!
I have an 18V DeWalt drill. It is grossly overpoered for running screws
in and out in most cases. When doing repititious work, it becomes very
heavy.
I'm considering one of those $20 screwdrivers (Skil) for lighter work.
Mark Thieme
Kevin Singleton
Unless the word "masonry" comes up a lot in your projects, I think you can
get by with less, and it's much easier on the forearms.
Kevin
Mark Thieme <"mthieme @clark.net> @clark.net>> wrote in message
<368B8018...@clark.net>...
Mark Thieme
Good suggestion.
At the time, I had no idea and I bought it as a demo for $200 (saw &
driver kit).
I hope the $20 skil driver I bought yesterday fills the gap.
I had to deal with (2) 6' piano hinges that had 1/2" wood screws every
two inches.
That was the final straw!!!!
If my DeWalt ever wears out - I'll remember the weight issue.
thanx
Mark
Kevin Singleton
You should've driven those screws by hand. Then, the 18V battery would be
no problem for the Popeye forearms!