Lubricating a vise.
tiredofspam
This is bigger than my 3 other vises, and is quick release which none of
my other vises are.
I took this beast apart and cleaned up all the gunk, and resins.
I was thinking of melting candle wax to use as lube, but am curious
what others are using for lube on their half nuts. This is not a half
nut, more like a 1/8 nut, it only turns one rotation. Quite interesting.
I will mount on another bench to see if I like it.
Gerald Ross
use a spray I make up by dissolving paraffin shavings in mineral
spirits. I also use this on my saw table. The mineral spirits
evaporates leaving an invisible film of paraffin wax.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
I'm not easy, but I can be tricked.
k-nuttle
> I use a spray I make up by dissolving paraffin shavings in mineral
> spirits. I also use this on my saw table.
Do you find the dissolved paraffin does a better job that using a good
grade of car wax on you saw?
cl...@snyder.on.ca
What about the old Johnson's amber paste wax????
Han
dn...@ptd.net:
On the threads of my vises and the 3/4" or so round bars they slide on, I
used some Lubriplate grease that originally came with our ultracentrifuges
and was "leftover"
Gerald Ross
Never tried car wax. I have used Johnson's paste wax. I have this
stuff in a pressure spray can (from Harbor Fright) and it is very
convenient. If the surface is stained I spray then scrub with a green
pad, wipe off with a paper towel then re-spray lightly. I like it
because it is cheap, easy to use and I can make it myself. And it is a
snap to apply to a vise screw or lathe tailstock screw. It doesn't
collect dust like oil or grease.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
Boe-lube or Boe-Sheild from Boeing is perhaps the BEST - but "best"
doesn't come cheap.
tiredofspam
For the half nut, I am going to put on a thicker coat of melted wax
under the nut, and on the nut. The nut moves back and forth a little.
I don't want the bronze nut to wear out if avoidable.
On 7/11/2011 4:30 PM, Gerald Ross wrote:
tiredofspam
For the half nut, I am going to put on a thicker coat of melted wax
under the nut, and on the nut. The nut moves back and forth a little.
I don't want the bronze nut to wear out if avoidable.
On 7/11/2011 4:30 PM, Gerald Ross wrote:
Larry Jaques
Johnson's Wax is great stuff. Hmm, I wonder how my NuFinish car
polymer would work on my saw, though. Sounds promising:
http://www.primeautomotive.com/msds/nu_finish_wax_msds.pdf
Ceramic microspheres sound interesting, oui?
--
Win first, Fight later.
--martial principle of the Samurai
Larry Jaques
Lubriplate? That brings back old memories. Isn't that a fairly thick,
white lithium grease in a tub? We used it at Security Chevrolet in
1973 for hinges and door locks. When I wrenched later at a Ford
dealership, we had a spray lithium grease that was just wonderful. I
still buy it at AutoZone. It sprays in as a liquid, then hardens and
stays in place.
Han
news:tcgn17pop5tojdm5h...@4ax.com:
I got a little squeeze tube, from the leftovers ...
Leon
For my cast iron tops and adjusting screws inside my TS I use TopCote.
Leon
Lubriplate is a relatively thin highly refined grease compared to wheel
bearing grease, IMHO it is more like the lube in a grease gun. The
white spray grease that dries to a dried wax like consistency was
typically white lithium grease, similar to Lubriplate but dried
thicker/harder.
RicodJour
-MIKE-
Boeshield is a no-brainer. You can use it for everything. Saw tops and
anything else. There is absolutely zero dust or grit collection.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Jack Stein
Dido, only way to go. I also use it on my pipe clamps, and on all my
metal C clamp screws. I have 2 quick release wood vices and metal vice,
use it on them as well.
--
Jack
You can't Tax your way into Prosperity!
http://jbstein.com
-MIKE-
I think TopCoat and Boeshield T-9 are pretty much interchangeable.
Scott Lurndal
>On 7/12/2011 8:01 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 7/11/2011 2:56 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>>> I just picked up a morgan 200a quick release vise.
>>> This is bigger than my 3 other vises, and is quick release which none of
>>> my other vises are.
>>>
>>> I took this beast apart and cleaned up all the gunk, and resins.
>>>
>>> I was thinking of melting candle wax to use as lube, but am curious what
>>> others are using for lube on their half nuts. This is not a half nut,
>>> more like a 1/8 nut, it only turns one rotation. Quite interesting.
>>> I will mount on another bench to see if I like it.
>
>> For my cast iron tops and adjusting screws inside my TS I use TopCote.
>
>Dido, only way to go.
Dido? The former queen of carthage? The British singer? The Soccer player?
The asteroid? The locomotive?
Or did you mean ditto, as in ditto-head?
scott
Jack Stein
Sorry, was letting my fingers do the walking...
--
Jack
If Guns Kill then Pencils Miss Spel Words!
http://jbstein.com
Jack Stein
> I think TopCoat and Boeshield T-9 are pretty much interchangeable.
I never used Boeshield but TopCote doesn't get sticky, ever. You spray
it on and it dries in seconds, then you can wipe it off or not. I wipe
it off my big iron, but on vice screws, pipe clamp screws and so on I
just spray it on, no wiping.
Long ago, when I first set up my shop in a wet basement, fighting rust
was a constant battle. I tried everything, including dissolving wax in
lacquer thinner and painting it on my big iron. I good friend of mine
worked for 3M and he said he saw some stuff at the 3M company store in
Minnesota that might work. He brought me back several cans and it was
like a miracle. Couldn't believe everyone didn't use it. I never found
it on sale anywhere. I even contacted someone at 3M and he never heard
of it., and eventually, when I ran out, I found TopCote. The cans
looked strikingly similar however, and I suspect they are pretty much
the same stuff. Here's some photo's of the two:
http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube1.jpg
http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube2.jpg
I think the 3M stuff *may* have been better at preventing rust, but not
sure. The stuff had a warning not to smoke when using, and it usually
gave me a headache after use. Topcote doesn't. I, and Leon recommend
it, so give it a try. Wood slides on my iron like leather shoes on wet
ice. I consider it a safety issue, more important than blade guards and
other hand wringing stuff.
--
Jack
Ninety-nine percent of all lawyers give the rest a bad name!
http://jbstein.com
-MIKE-
> On 7/15/2011 1:30 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> I think TopCoat and Boeshield T-9 are pretty much interchangeable.
>
> I never used Boeshield but TopCote doesn't get sticky, ever. You spray
> it on and it dries in seconds, then you can wipe it off or not. I wipe
> it off my big iron, but on vice screws, pipe clamp screws and so on I
> just spray it on, no wiping.
I could write that paragraph about Boeshield. Someone in another thread
said it got sticky on them. I'm not going to argue with his experience
other than to say I suspect there were other variables involved.
I've tried to replicate the results and can't.
Either way, they are both great products. I have no horse in the race. :-)
J. Clarke
>
> On 7/17/11 10:07 AM, Jack Stein wrote:
> > On 7/15/2011 1:30 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> >
> >> I think TopCoat and Boeshield T-9 are pretty much interchangeable.
> >
> > I never used Boeshield but TopCote doesn't get sticky, ever. You spray
> > it on and it dries in seconds, then you can wipe it off or not. I wipe
> > it off my big iron, but on vice screws, pipe clamp screws and so on I
> > just spray it on, no wiping.
>
> I could write that paragraph about Boeshield. Someone in another thread
> said it got sticky on them. I'm not going to argue with his experience
> other than to say I suspect there were other variables involved.
> I've tried to replicate the results and can't.
>
> Either way, they are both great products. I have no horse in the race. :-)
Just put Boeshield on thick and let it sit for a month.
Normally I spray it on stuff and wipe it off. One day I was cleaning
some tools that had gotten rained on, had just sprayed them and
something came up. I forgot about them for a while and came back a
month or so later and found that they were unexpectedly sticky.
Resprayed and wiped down and they were fine.
Since then I've noticed this happens consistently with heavy coats that
don't get wiped off.
Incidentally, when I get a new tool I generally Boeshield it first
thing. One time I dropped a Harbor Fright ratchet while I was working
on the lawn mower and then couldn't find it. A year and a half later I
was digging in a flower bed and there it was, looking like new and
working fine. And I'm pretty sure that it wasn't the quality of Harbor
Fright's workmanship that kept it that way.
-MIKE-
> Just put Boeshield on thick and let it sit for a month.
>
> Since then I've noticed this happens consistently with heavy coats that
> don't get wiped off.
>
I guess I just would never spray it on thick.
It's not how I see the product is to be used.
If I need a thicker coat of a lubricant, I'm just not reaching for
Boeshield, partly because of its price, but mostly because I see it as
an "invisible lube," not a grease. :-)
> Incidentally, when I get a new tool I generally Boeshield it first
> thing. One time I dropped a Harbor Fright ratchet while I was working
> on the lawn mower and then couldn't find it. A year and a half later I
> was digging in a flower bed and there it was, looking like new and
> working fine. And I'm pretty sure that it wasn't the quality of Harbor
> Fright's workmanship that kept it that way.
>
Now that is a great practice. Mental note taken. Thanks.
-MIKE-
>
>
As I posted to the other threads, I replicated your results.
It definitely leaves a waxy feel behind... duh, it's wax. :-)
Spalted Walt
paraffin shavings in mineral spirits. Could you give me the ratio, for
say a pint of mineral spirits? How much paraffin shavings would I add
to a pint of mineral spirits? A cup? Two cups? Do you heat it any to
make the paraffin dissolve?
I would assume an old cheese grater would suffice for shredding the
paraffin. Yes?
This intrigues me because I've heard many times over the years that's
all Boeshield, Top Cote, Top Saver really is - highly overpriced
paraffin & mineral spirits. However, no one I've talked to has ever
mixed their own so the ratio has remained a mystery.
tiredofspam
I just took a bunch of candle wax shaved off with a knife and put it in
a jar. Then took a bit of mineral spirits (MS) and let it melt it. It
takes a while. No ratio, I did it by feel.
I think butchers wax isn't that far off from this mixture. Or Johnsons
paste wax... As someone had mentioned. And I agree. But it was nice
making my own.
Do not heat it. It's flamable with the MS. It does make a nice lube.
And I might actually try less MS next time to use it for runners on draws.
Gerald Ross was the one describing the mixture that he used. Which I
then just tried to make more viscous than his.
For my tablesaw top and other cast iron tops I just use Butchers wax.
Every 3 to six months depending on wear.
G.W. Ross
>
>
>
mineral spirits. I made the shavings with a little freebie--otherwise
useless--hand plane. About twice a day I would shake the bottle.
When no more wax was visible I added some more. When no more would
dissolve I poured some in a Harbor Freight sprayer.. It looks like a
rattle can with a screw-off top and a tire type valve on the side of
the top. Put a little pressure in it and Bob's your uncle.
I use it on table saw top, vise screws, lathe ways, etc.
By the way, I have another recipe. Dissolve grease lube in lighter
fluid and pour it back in the can. It works on bicycle chains,
hinges, etc. I call it penetrating grease. The naptha evaporates
leaving a grease film. If you don't make it too viscous, it will suck
right into the cracks of a hinge and lasts much longer than oil.
--
G.W. Ross
'Bother,' said Pooh, as he saw the
mushroom cloud.
Spalted Walt
>
>Actually I just dumped a handful into a pint bottle about 3/4 full of
>mineral spirits. I made the shavings with a little freebie--otherwise
>useless--hand plane. About twice a day I would shake the bottle.
>When no more wax was visible I added some more. When no more would
>dissolve I poured some in a Harbor Freight sprayer.. It looks like a
>rattle can with a screw-off top and a tire type valve on the side of
>the top. Put a little pressure in it and Bob's your uncle.
>
>I use it on table saw top, vise screws, lathe ways, etc.
>
>By the way, I have another recipe. Dissolve grease lube in lighter
>fluid and pour it back in the can. It works on bicycle chains,
>hinges, etc. I call it penetrating grease. The naptha evaporates
>leaving a grease film. If you don't make it too viscous, it will suck
>right into the cracks of a hinge and lasts much longer than oil.
Thursday at a grocery store and will give this a try!
Amazon has the exact same thing but it's more expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Oak-972-Household-Paraffin/dp/B000PS6PY2
I searched on Harbor Freight's website for the spray can you described
but no joy. Does the one you bought there have a model number on it?
Does it look anything like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Vaper-Spot-Sprayer-Non-Aerosol-Model/dp/B0035FH906
Larry Jaques
I'll sell it for $10 + shipping from Oregon 97526.
I think I tried it once for latex paint (too thick), cleaned it out,
and it has been sitting since. NOS in box, made in Taiwan, with
nozzle, cap, and instructions. It's a painted aluminum cylinder with
machined aluminum top. HF #01102, which is no longer made.
--
Live Simply. Speak Kindly. Care Deeply. Love Generously.
-- anon
Roy
>On Mon, 11 Jul 2011 16:30:40 -0400, Gerald Ross <gw...@comsouth.net> wrote:
>
>>For my vise parts and most moving things that are exposed to dust, I
>>use a spray I make up by dissolving paraffin shavings in mineral
>>spirits. I also use this on my saw table. The mineral spirits
>>evaporates leaving an invisible film of paraffin wax.
>
>
>I realize this is an old thread but you mentioned that you dissolved
>paraffin shavings in mineral spirits. Could you give me the ratio, for
>say a pint of mineral spirits? How much paraffin shavings would I add
>to a pint of mineral spirits? A cup? Two cups? Do you heat it any to
>make the paraffin dissolve?
ounces of wax. This is a thin solution for brushing on. You can obviously make
it thinner or thicker. I made up a gallon of the stuff using Coleman fuel, aka
white gas, (VERY flammable petrol, Jeff). A less volatile solvent would be a
lot safer.
Johnson's Wax uses toluene and/or xylene for a solvent and I've been known to
add a little back in if I forget and leave the lid off overnight...or for a
week. Toluene, MS, naphtha, turps, etc have low enough volatility that I would
consider using them outside with a double boiler. Otherwise, just let it
dissolve over 24-48 hours.
>I would assume an old cheese grater would suffice for shredding the
>paraffin. Yes?
again as it starts to dissolve. Plan on it taking overnight, and just give it a
shake every time you walk by. Pretend you're making up a fresh solution of
shellac.
Jack
when my old shop used to get waterlogged. It is NOT the same as Top
Cote, doesn't last as long, is no where near as slick, and plainly
speaking, wax sucks. I spray all my tops with topcote or equivalent for
over 35 years, it's the way to go. Also, I spray a coat on all my vices,
screw clamps, C Clamps, pipe/bar clamps, paint spinner and about
anything I can think of that would benefit from a long lasting dry lube.
Save your wax for sealing end grain when drying raw wood. I buff it
off my table tops but not on the other stuff mentioned.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com