Delta Radial Arm Saw?
DM...@cunyvm.bitnet
Delta's model #33-990. There is a radial arm saw made by Ryobi, but it
is way too small. Does anyone have this Delta saw or a different saw in the
same price range ($500-$700).
Daniel Schlissel
Bob Parnass, AJ9S
> I want to buy a new radial arm saw... Delta's model #33-990.
> Does anyone have this Delta saw or a different saw in the range ($500-$700).
>
> Daniel Schlissel
I've owned the 10" Delta radial arm saw for about a year now
and would be glad to answer questions about it.
Mine is made in USA and the construction is much more massive
than the Craftsman radial saws, especially the arm portion.
It's a very good saw, and I have few complaints.
The power switch is located in a handy place when you do
crosscuts, but it is difficult to access while outripping (a
scary operation on any radial arm saw).
I did replace the stock Delta blade with a Freud
LU84 carbide combination blade which cuts much more smoothly.
--
===============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S att!ihlpm!parnass
Distinguished Member of the Technical Staff (708)979-5414
AT&T Bell Laboratories Knife collector, treasure hunter
DM...@cunyvm.bitnet
>and would be glad to answer questions about it.
>Bob Parnass, AJ9S att!ihlpm!parnass
>Distinguished Member of the Technical Staff (708)979-5414
>AT&T Bell Laboratories Knife collector, treasure hunter
Just a few more questions regarding Delta's radial arm saw (model 33-990)
1) How easy or difficult is it to set up?
2) Does it easily cut through hardwoods?
3) How accurate is it and does it need constant adjustment?
4) What is the max. crosscut?
5) Have you set up any auxiliary fence extensions (eg.Biesemeyer)
Thank you very much for your time.
Daniel Schlissel
Bob Parnass, AJ9S
Daniel Schlissel asked about Delta's radial arm saw (model 33-990):
> 1) How easy or difficult is it to set up?
A radial arm saw is very flexible and can be used for many different
woodworking chores. A lot of that flexibility arises from the design
in which the motor can be oriented in several positions and different
angles. Likewise, the arm can also assume various orientations.
This flexibility, in my opinion, exacts a price -- there is more
room for variations in cutting accuracy than in a table saw (see
below).
The Delta does have several adjustments, but many are performed just
once, when you assemble the saw. From what I can determine by
reading Cliffe's "Radial Arm Saw Techniques" and by shopping around,
the Delta seems to have about the same adjustments as the DeWalt
(Black & Decker) 10" radial arm saw.
> 2) Does it easily cut through hardwoods?
I have no horsepower problem with the motor. The Freud carbide
combination blade is a lot better than the stock Delta blade.
I recently had trouble cutting through a knot in a thick piece of
knotty, warped sycamore. The blade started to bind and my home
circuit breaker popped -- not the circuit breaker on the Delta's motor.
> 3) How accurate is it and does it need constant adjustment?
No, it doesn't need constant readjustment, but I do need to tweak it
every so often.
I confess this is the only RAS I've ever owned and its accuracy
in large measure depends on how well I "set it up." However, I suspect
that a Delta contractor's table saw or a good power miter would probably
be more accurate than the RAS because the RAS blade is on a motor
which dangles on a long arm over the wood. Also, if you twist
your hand while holding the handle, you can tilt the motor slightly.
> 4) What is the max. crosscut?
About 12".
> 5) Have you set up any auxiliary fence extensions (eg.Biesemeyer)
No.
If you want to get a RAS, by all means, get the Delta 10".
I make wooden toys and some small furniture. Crosscuts are easy
on the RAS. I'd like to get a table saw some day, because I truly
dread making rip cuts on the RAS.
--
Greg Walters
expicially looking for methods which bring out the dark red coloring of the
wood.
Please send responses to me or post.
Thanks - greg -
DBRUM
IMHO: If I were you, I'd use something clear, either
one of the "natural oils" (i.e., tung, Minwax Antique
Oil, Watco Natural Danish Oil, linseed oil, etc.) or
a clear varnish (polyurethane, urethane, Liquid Plastic,
Varthane, etc.)
The Cherry already has a nice natural color, which
you seem to appreciate--and rightly so. And this--as
with other woods--will darken and mellow slightly
as it ages anyway.
--danny
Chris Lewis
>I would like some suggestions on ways to finish cherry wood furniture. I am
>expicially looking for methods which bring out the dark red coloring of the
>wood.
Up until now I've just been tung oiling cherry and waiting for it to
darken on its own. Doing pretty good.
I've seen some really gorgeous cherry staining, but I've not been
able to reproduce it yet, and I think I'll avoid doing this.
(other than to make other woods look like cherry ;-)
I understand ammonia will artificially age cherry, but I've not tried
that yet. Probably needs a very light hand to keep the colouring
reasonably uniform.
--
Chris Lewis; cle...@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-...@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Moderator of the ferret list: ferret-...@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
**** NEVER let something mechanical know you're in a hurry. ****
Tom Bullinger (x37419)-USA
>In article <1992Jan6.1...@shell.shell.com> walters@moclips (Greg Walters) writes:
>>I would like some suggestions on ways to finish cherry wood furniture. I am
>>expicially looking for methods which bring out the dark red coloring of the
>>wood.
>
>that yet. Probably needs a very light hand to keep the colouring
>reasonably uniform.
>--
>Chris Lewis; cle...@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
My Dad likes to use a mild mixture of Drano and water to age the cherry
naturally. He did this on a stool my kids have, and it's still beautiful.
I don't remember having any problems with uniformity, but ya never know!
tomb..
Keith Thompson - Sun BOS Engineering
i've been using watco oil (natural) and have been getting good
results. i have found that the wood takes about 6 months to
darken. also note that while it is darkening do not let anyting
cover part of the peice for a long period of time (esp. if the
peice is in sunlight) so that you get an even finish.
kbt
Jim B. Byers
with age so that it will take a number of years to richen up by itself. The
second idea is that one can accelerate this process so that you can have that
color immediately.
Anybody have concentration information.
Jim Byers
j...@cv.hp.com
Waste no time arguing what a good man should be,
Be one.
Marcus Arelius
John R. Mudd
>I made a chair out of cherry and was given two notions. One, cherry darkens
>with age so that it will take a number of years to richen up by itself. The
>second idea is that one can accelerate this process so that you can have that
>color immediately.
My advice is to wait for it to darken naturally. However, there was an
article in Fine Woodworking at some point in time that discussed how to
use lye (typically found in Drano and oven cleaners) to artificially
darken cherry.
... John
Tom Johnson
>with age so that it will take a number of years to richen up by itself. The
>second idea is that one can accelerate this process so that you can have that
>color immediately.
>
I don't know about _immediately_, but as I understand it, it's SUNLIGHT
that darkens cherry, not just age..... I just finished my first cherry
project (shaker hall table from Woodsmith magazine); I'll let you know
in a year or two if it's true. :-)
tom j.
richard.muldoon
(maple and walnut samples still to come). I managed to duplicate the deep
brown/red of an old cherry table with Lockwood's Antique Cherry dye
mixed with a bit of Standard Brown Walnut. Yellowish dyes (Golden Oak,
Honeytone Maple) bring out the orange in cherry; red/brown dyes (Std. Red
Mahogany, Antique Cherry, Std. Walnut) tone down the orange and get
closer to the golden/red/brown of old oiled cherry. If you're really
serious about matching colors, I highly recommend
getting a collection of dyes ($30 from Woodcraft) and making sets of
samples -- pure colors and mixed colors -- on the wood you're working
with at a given time. Caution: I know what ten years does to oiled
cherry, and I love it; I have no idea what time will do to dyed & oiled
cherry.
Dick Muldoon
r...@usl.com
Phil Ngai
>My advice is to wait for it to darken naturally. However, there was an
>article in Fine Woodworking at some point in time that discussed how to
>use lye (typically found in Drano and oven cleaners) to artificially
>darken cherry.
Our supermarkets carry plain lye as well as drano. I would suggest
buying the former, as drano has various other materials in it which may
or may not lead to desirable results, as well as being more expensive.
(for example, drano has flakes of aluminum in it which react with lye
in the presence of water to produce lots of heat. This is useful in
clearing a grease clog but not in finishing wood.)
--
This posting is purely a personal opinion.
David Duke: Why every !(white&straight&male) should own an assault rifle.
Daniel Turk
The dark red color comes about as a process of the wood/finish aging.
If you finish the cherry wood furniture with an oil-base stain (clear
will do) it will turn dark over the next several months as it is exposed
to light. NOTE: Natural cherry wood is a LIGHT salmon pink color, not
the dark color typically seen in cherry furniture.....!
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Dan Turk Computer Science & Information Systems Andrews University
Berrien Springs, MI tu...@andrews.edu (616) 471-3426
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GA.Hoffman
cheers, g
--
gary a hoffman
RISC Systems, Watson Research
Mark Rance
results.
there is something new, though, that is getting lots of good press: General's
Two Step finishes. i have no empirical data of my own, but lots of peole are
rraving about them in the mags.
anyone out there have any experince with this finish on cherry??
mark
In article <1992Jan13.1...@watson.ibm.com>, oa...@watson.ibm.com
(GA.Hoffman) writes:
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|>From: oa...@watson.ibm.com (GA.Hoffman)
|>Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
|>Subject: Re: Finishing Cherry Furniture (what to use?)
|>Keywords: cherry finish
|>Message-ID: <1992Jan13.1...@watson.ibm.com>
|>Date: 13 Jan 92 18:12:28 GMT
|>References: <91365.16...@CUNYVM.BITNET>
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<1992Jan6.1...@shell.shell.com>
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John Hillenbrand
> there is something new, though, that is getting lots of good press: General's
>Two Step finishes. I have no empirical data of my own, but lots of peole are
>raving about them in the mags.
>Anyone out there have any experince with this finish on cherry?
Yes, I finished a "Shaker Hall Table" (WoodSmith plans, with some
variations) with the General two-step; clear sealer, and regular
strength overcoat (not the armor coat). Low stink, very easy to
apply, no dust problems even working in the shop. For those of you
who have not used it, you wipe it on with a rag or something, and
when each coat dries you rub it with fine steel wool. This cuts
the gloss to a subtle but nice polish, and removes any dust or other
flaws. WoodSmith suggests a 24 hour dry time; the can says about
half that. In my cold shop, WoodSmith was closer to right.
On the drawback side, I steel wooled the finish with 0000 wool. I have
not worked with steel wool since my brillo-pad-on-whitewall-tire days.
I found 0000 shredded and became useless fairly quickly. It was difficult
to get into the corners, and they remain too shiny because of this.
I may try plastic steel-wool equivalent pads next time, and see if that
works better.
In summary, I'm very pleased how it went. I've abandoned solvent-based
finishes (at least, the traditional highly aromatic ones) and am using
only Generals two-step and water-based polyurethane depending on the
wood and final application of the project. P.S. I bought quart sizes of
the General two-step stuff, and have lots and lots left over; you might
want only a pint unless you're finishing something really big.
John P. Wack
In article <1992Jan1...@eichen.cxo.dec.com> ra...@eichen.cxo.dec.com (Mark Rance) writes:
>ipersonally, have used natural watco oil on many cherry pieces...with great
>results.
>
> there is something new, though, that is getting lots of good press: General's
>Two Step finishes. i have no empirical data of my own, but lots of peole are
>rraving about them in the mags.
>
>anyone out there have any experince with this finish on cherry??
Like an idiot, I "volunteered" to make four cherry end-tables for Christmas
presents, but it afforded me to experiment with finishes. My best results
came from using natural Watco Oil on cherry that was sanded to 400 grit - I
"dewhiskered" the wood by wetting lightly and sanding very lightly before
applying the oil. After letting it sit for three days, I applied two very
fine coats of General's tung oil/polyurethane coating - by very thin, I
wiped it on with a rag and within one minute wiped it dry with a different
rag. I found that this provided a hard, water-resistent finish with some
gloss - this seemed appropriate for a table top, but perhaps not for other
types of furniture. I finished everything with several coats of paste wax.
I don't know about using the other General finishes - I suspect that their
sealer coat is something like tung oil mixed with a solvent - I've used
that before, but liked the more rich finish provided by Watco better. I
would like to hear what people have to say about the newer water-based
finishes that are more safe and less smelly. I made the mistake of
finishing one table with the General product in my bedroom and then going
to sleep - what a hangover the next day! Pretty stupid!
John Wack
Mark Miller
> sealer coat is something like tung oil mixed with a solvent - I've used
> that before, but liked the more rich finish provided by Watco better. I
> would like to hear what people have to say about the newer water-based
> finishes that are more safe and less smelly. I made the mistake of
> finishing one table with the General product in my bedroom and then going
> to sleep - what a hangover the next day! Pretty stupid!
I've had a lot of success using Carver Tripp water-based polyurethane. I've
used it on a couple of pieces, as well as my living room and dining room
floors. The last piece I finished, a toy box, I made the mistake of working
with it for several hours straight, down in my cellar. Even though it's
water-based, and hardly an odor, I still got a "hangover" afterward. So,
in the future, I'll use a mask!!
Mark
--
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