how to: inlay a cutting brd in countertop
Renata
there. So...
I have to deal with this kitchen countertop that had a hot pot set on
it at least once. It burned thru the formica in spots (a fair number
of spots, though not large ones) and I thought about inlaying a
butcher block cutting board in the area of the burn. Routing out the
space for the board and dropping it in.
Two questions:
1)
Any other ideas on how to deal with this burned area (no, I don't want
to replace the entire counter or reformica the entire counter), like a
special touch up paint, etc.? Creativity is lacking on my part here
as I just want to get the project out of my hair.
2)
What's the best way to make a template or whatever to route a precise
fit for the cutting board, stiff enough that clamping it to the
counter only at the front (sliding the counter forward to be able to
clamp at 4 corners vs. 2 isn't feasible) will preclude movement while
routing. Again, I have ideas, but...
Alternatively/additionally, any ideas for creative methods for dealing
with the interface between the cutting board edge and countertop edge
once the board is dropped in place (e.g. if I'm a wee bit off on the
routing template...)?
Hope this makes sense (I'm not quite awake/aware yet, and probably
won't be til tomorrow...).
Thanx
REnata
Saudade
Use double sided tape to hold the template down. How about doing a ceramic
tile insert? Use contrasting colors or even patterned/painted tiles.
Sid Wood
Here was my suggestion:
You might consider not having the cutting board surface flush with the
counter top.
Router a socket/cut-out in the counter top, then make the cutting board
slightly larger than the cut out. Router the edge of the cutting board with
an overlap that sits on the counter top when dropped into the cut out, such
that the cutting board is a quarter inch or so above the counter. Do not
glue the cutting board down.
The overlap would prevent food, etc. from getting into the interface. In
addition, the cutting board could be removed from its socket for more
vigorous cleaning (or replacement) if/when required.
"patriarch gma...@nospam.comcastDOTnet>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
news:Xns952060BDECC67...@204.127.199.17...
> Renata <bar...@myrealbox.com> wrote in
> news:2ujqe0t5er11sf1cj...@4ax.com:
>
> > I have some ideas on this, but I suspect there's better ones out
> > there. So...
> <snip>
> > 2)
> > What's the best way to make a template or whatever to route a precise
> > fit for the cutting board, stiff enough that clamping it to the
> > counter only at the front (sliding the counter forward to be able to
> > clamp at 4 corners vs. 2 isn't feasible) will preclude movement while
> > routing. Again, I have ideas, but...
> <snip>
>
> How about making the template such that the outside frame is secured to a
> middle piece (think a sideways letter 'H', perhaps) which is then secured
> to the formica with a couple of screws in the area to be 'wasted'. Then
> pattern route.
>
> Will the formica be cut all the way through? If so, think 'sink cutout',
> and support the board from underneath with cleats. A hole drilled, or
> plunge cut, then you have a place to clamp your template.
>
> Or not. But there are a lot of ways to do this, and you've probably
> thought of three more since you wrote your note. From what I've seen of
> your work here, you've figured out lots of good answers...
>
> Patriarch
Charles Spitzer
idea all around.
you'd do better to cut a hole larger than the board, seal the sides WELL,
and support from below using sink clips.
"Renata" <bar...@myrealbox.com> wrote in message
news:2ujqe0t5er11sf1cj...@4ax.com...
igor
>Alternatively/additionally, any ideas for creative methods for dealing
>with the interface between the cutting board edge and countertop edge
>once the board is dropped in place (e.g. if I'm a wee bit off on the
>routing template...)?
If you do an inlay, you can seal the space btw the board and the Formica
with a color caulk - depending on the style/color of your Formica.
Bath/kitchen fixture companies make caulks to match some of their fixture
colors -- Kohler is one, IIRC.
If you do the overalp lip and drop-in design, as others have suggested,
(much easier as you can do a cutout with a saber saw - like doing a sink)
you might put closed-cell weather seal under the lip -- that is what some
appliance companies do for drop-in appliances. Also, you do not say how
thick the cutting board will be and if you want it flush. If you like the
drop-in idea, and were planning on a 1.5" cutting board, you could instead
try a 3/4" board, round over the edges, and then simply attach it to the
counter top with screws from underneath. If you do that, consider using
some kind of sealer at the edges, underneath, whether the plumber putty
stuff used for sinks or clear & food safe caulk.
Mark
Cut a hole out of the counter top using a jig saw, much like you cut
out a sink opening. Trace around the cutting board and then trace
inside that line about a 1/4" inch. Cut that out with a jig saw.
For the cutting board, assuming it's 3/4" thick, run all the edges of
the cutting board through a jointer taking 3/8" x 3/8" out of a
corner. Drop in the cutting board into the counter top, should fit in
there just right.
xrongor
we made both a ceramic tile insert and a cutting board insert for my mom so
she can change it to fit what she is doing.
randy
Mike
bar...@myrealbox.com says...
--
MikeG
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
mi...@heirloom-woods.net
Stephen M
However, I would add that you would have to seal with some sort of finish
the raw edges of the cutout because spills would inevitably dribble into
there.
"Sid Wood" <s...@sidwood.ca> wrote in message
news:E_GdneSFJ_E...@golden.net...
Phisherman
wrote:
>I have some ideas on this, but I suspect there's better ones out
Here's what worked for me and the concept will work for you. I
needed to cut a perfect hole in my router table top, which is covered
in Formica. I built a jig from hardwood wood strips 2" wide, 1/2"
thick. I fitted my router with a straight-cutting bit and a collar.
Knowing the (small) distance between the cutting edge and collar is
important. Lay out the strips such that the router will ride on the
inside of the rectangle and half-lap the corners of the strips.
Making the jig such that the corners cross rather than make a corner
will make the jig stronger and provide an area for clamping. You want
the jig to be smooth with no steps at the joints. Make a test run on
some scrap ply to see if the cutting board fits !!! It might be
easier to make the hole slightly smaller then trim the cutting board
to fit. Holding the jig tight to the counter is important. As you
stated, you can clamp the jig to the counter edge, but on the sides
and back use double-sided carpet tape (To remove the tape dampen with
kerosene and scrap with a credit card.) Take several passes around
the template, cutting a max 1/4" with each pass.
J. Clarke
> I have some ideas on this, but I suspect there's better ones out
> there. So...
>
> I have to deal with this kitchen countertop that had a hot pot set on
> it at least once. It burned thru the formica in spots (a fair number
> of spots, though not large ones) and I thought about inlaying a
> butcher block cutting board in the area of the burn. Routing out the
> space for the board and dropping it in.
>
> Two questions:
>
> 1)
> Any other ideas on how to deal with this burned area (no, I don't want
> to replace the entire counter or reformica the entire counter), like a
> special touch up paint, etc.? Creativity is lacking on my part here
> as I just want to get the project out of my hair.
Just a dumb notion here, but have you considered inlaying a granite tile or
three instead of the butcher block? If a hot pot got set there once then
one will again, and granite will take that a lot better than butcher block.
> 2)
> What's the best way to make a template or whatever to route a precise
> fit for the cutting board, stiff enough that clamping it to the
> counter only at the front (sliding the counter forward to be able to
> clamp at 4 corners vs. 2 isn't feasible) will preclude movement while
> routing. Again, I have ideas, but...
> Alternatively/additionally, any ideas for creative methods for dealing
> with the interface between the cutting board edge and countertop edge
> once the board is dropped in place (e.g. if I'm a wee bit off on the
> routing template...)?
>
> Hope this makes sense (I'm not quite awake/aware yet, and probably
> won't be til tomorrow...).
>
> Thanx
> REnata
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Larry Jaques
>I have some ideas on this, but I suspect there's better ones out
>there. So...
There is? </English Teacher mode>
>I have to deal with this kitchen countertop that had a hot pot set on
>it at least once. It burned thru the formica in spots (a fair number
>of spots, though not large ones) and I thought about inlaying a
>butcher block cutting board in the area of the burn. Routing out the
>space for the board and dropping it in.
>
>Two questions:
>
>1)
>Any other ideas on how to deal with this burned area (no, I don't want
>to replace the entire counter or reformica the entire counter), like a
>special touch up paint, etc.? Creativity is lacking on my part here
>as I just want to get the project out of my hair.
How about gluin' & screwin' (from the bottom) a cutting board
on top of the counter with a bead of clear sillycone 'round 'er?
Glue down a thin cork hotpad area instead of a cutting board?
>2)
>What's the best way to make a template or whatever to route a precise
>fit for the cutting board, stiff enough that clamping it to the
>counter only at the front (sliding the counter forward to be able to
>clamp at 4 corners vs. 2 isn't feasible) will preclude movement while
>routing. Again, I have ideas, but...
Since you're cutting out the center, screw a template onto the
bad portion of the counter, then rout around it with a pattern
bit. Hotglue some plates on the bottom to hold the cutout if
you want to go all the way through.
>Alternatively/additionally, any ideas for creative methods for dealing
>with the interface between the cutting board edge and countertop edge
>once the board is dropped in place (e.g. if I'm a wee bit off on the
>routing template...)?
Cut another bit (1/4"?) of contrasting wood inlay to go around it.
That'll only work once, and the "bullseye" look would begin at the
second strip. ;)
>Hope this makes sense (I'm not quite awake/aware yet, and probably
>won't be til tomorrow...).
I've never understood that. I'm about 95% awake by the time
my feet hit the floor, and mornings are my best time. (My body
hasn't had time to get tired yet and after the ten minutes of
arthritic creakiness, I'm pretty much good to go.)
-------------------------------------------
Crapsman tools are their own punishment
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
======================================================
Larry Jaques
calmly ranted:
>Carpet tape will hold a template nicely
Just be careful when removing it or -it- may be stuck
better (than the formica is to the substrate) and
you'll lift the formica, perhaps in pieces.
rob
You can buy a pre-made board complete with a mounting flange at most
home centers.
They come with a template similar to a sink. And flange the same way.
Glass (corningware type)boards are also available if you are concerned
about bacteria buildup etc.
Rob
Renata
See - what a great idea by some of y'all - TILE! I think that'll be
the easiest - about 6 or 9 of 'em.
THANX
Renata
On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 15:46:36 GMT, "Saudade"
<Saud...@hormel.yahoo.com> wrote:
>Renata wrote:
-snip-
>> I have to deal with this kitchen countertop that had a hot pot set on
>> it at least once. It burned thru the formica in spots (a fair number
>> of spots, though not large ones) and I thought about inlaying a
>> butcher block cutting board in the area of the burn. Routing out the
>> space for the board and dropping it in.
>>
-snip-
Renata
still in bed.
My early start to get back to MD got waylaid by the amount of last
minute crap I had to take care of in PA. Had to drive thru a nasty
storm, got in at 1AM, woke up at 5AM. Coffee NOT ready at work.
Brain just wasn't too interested in waking up, in spite of my
insistence to the contrary. Normally there's about a one hour delay,
but mornings are the best for me too.
The clear,crisp air (a rarity for Washington in summer) this morn made
ever so hard to drag myself in to work... Hmm, maybe I'll sneak out
early ;-)
Renata
On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 18:49:18 -0700, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 10:27:55 -0400, Renata <bar...@myrealbox.com>
>calmly ranted:
>
>>I have some ideas on this, but I suspect there's better ones out
>>there. So...
>
>There is? </English Teacher mode>
>
>
-snip-
Renata
I'm gonna go with tile (ceramic or granite), since that'll be
simplest. But, I'm gonna save some of the suggestions for future use.
Thanx!
Renata
On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 10:27:55 -0400, Renata <bar...@myrealbox.com>
wrote:
>I have some ideas on this, but I suspect there's better ones out
>there. So...
>
>I have to deal with this kitchen countertop that had a hot pot set on
>it at least once. It burned thru the formica in spots (a fair number
>of spots, though not large ones) and I thought about inlaying a
>butcher block cutting board in the area of the burn. Routing out the
>space for the board and dropping it in.
-snip-
>Thanx
>REnata
Steven P
some? I think this is a very cool idea and think that I may try something
similar in our kitchen.
I'd love to see what you come up with.
SteveP.
"Renata" <bar...@myrealbox.com> wrote in message
news:gj6te0dvck8fcl4el...@4ax.com...
Renata
Bought one 12x12 marble tile that kinda went witht he color scheme of
the kitchen. Even found grout that was harmonious. Routed out the
area for tile plus grout, applied thinset, set the tile, then grouted
(a bit later) around the edges. It juts up just a bit. Looks ok, but
unfortunately, in my haste to hit the road I forgot about taking a
picture.
Wasn't all that difficult, though you gotta remember to plan the
routing in such a way that the router has a base to stay on (i.e.
route methodically from one end to the other rather than randomly).
And, the kitchen sink kept getting in the way as I tried to position
the router guide I'd made.
I'd also suggest trying a bunch of 6x6 tiles and comparing the look
w/one 12x12, etc.
Steven P
SteveP.
"Renata" <bar...@myrealbox.com> wrote in message
news:j905f01rk48prmncc...@4ax.com...
Dave
I found this video from This Old House:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20300221,00.html
I thought this was perfect. After a little digging, I found the company
that manufactured this product was Counterware. Unfortunately, Counterware
is no longer in business.
The closest replacement I have found is from a company called Bull:
http://www.bullbbq.com/drop-cutting-board
I have to check the clearance, but I think it will be perfect for my
needs. Since the Stainless Steel Tray is not fixed to the counter top, the
whole unit can be removed for easy cleaning.
--
Joe >
> I have to deal with this kitchen countertop that had a hot pot set on
> it at least once. It burned thru the formica in spots (a fair number
> of spots, though not large ones) and I thought about inlaying a
> butcher block cutting board in the area of the burn. Routing out the
> space for the board and dropping it in.
> Two questions:
> 1) Any other ideas on how to deal with this burned area (no, I don't want
> to replace the entire counter or reformica the entire counter), like a
> special touch up paint, etc.? Creativity is lacking on my part here
> as I just want to get the project out of my hair.
prevent a similar problem bound to happen from my coffee maker's
heating element.
I took a 13" piece of hardboard and laminated both sides with scrap (only
one side matches the countertop).
Trimmed an inch or so off the corners to give it some shape, but I think
rounded/radiused would have looked better.
Instant hotpad - sacrificial if needed, cost zero. As additional security, I
put a square glass tray out of a trrashed microwave oven on top of that,
and it catches any drips/overflow from the coffeemaker and further
distributes any heat. It still looks like new.
FWIW - Installers can generate a tremendous amount of good will by giving
the customer a few of these at the end of the job - it's all there and would
go in the trash otherwise.
> 2) What's the best way to make a template or whatever to route a precise
> fit for the cutting board, stiff enough that clamping it to the
> counter only at the front (sliding the counter forward to be able to
> clamp at 4 corners vs. 2 isn't feasible) will preclude movement while
> routing. Again, I have ideas, but...
Some folks use the THIN carpet tape, others use what looks like regular
Scotch tape. I use the latter since there's virtually no thickness to it
and the other is too sticky - if you get a wrinkle, you're.... stuck.
Clean the counter with 409 and rinse it off with water first to get a good
bond.
Another FWIW- My cooktop resembles the drop-in SS tray with cutting
board that another poster mentioned. Wonderful concept, but a terror to
clean. Drips and spatters get between the lift-out modules. With a cutting
board stuff would always be straying into the gap if you cook like like I do.
Plus, now there's a lip to clean around instead of a flat counter - just like a
sink or cooktop. Also, that counterspace is lost to any other use. It got
burned, so obviously the room is needed. Where are you going to carve a
hot turkey or roast when you need that big cutting board that has a drip
groove? I see there's a drain in in the built-in version. Where does it go?
The idea of the small laminated piece presented is a cover-up, but may be
more feasible in use, and is certainly easier and cheaper.
Let us know your progress on this, whatever you decide to do.
-J
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com