Walt
Roger Cyre wrote:
> Looking for opinions about the TS Aligner Jr. Preferably from
> owner/users.
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Walt Akers
http://www.twisted-oaks.org/Woodwork
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I've also used to to align the top of the saw to the blade to within .001"
and the fence to within .002" (keeping the fence a little bit open towards
the back to prevent kickback). This took only a few minutes to do with the
TS Aligner.
I recently checked my chop saw trying to figure out why the cuts have been
so bad lately. Out comes the TS Aligner. The blade is fluttering something
awful, something like .01". I haven't figure out the cause of the problem
but the TS-Aligner will most certainly tell me if I'm making progress.
I think the TS Aligner Jr was one of the best purchases I've ever made. I'd
rebuy it in an instant if I ever lost it.
"Walt Akers" <ak...@twisted-oaks.org> wrote in message
news:3BB0634A...@twisted-oaks.org...
2 years ago and not since...
I do not own one... but like you though about purchasing one UNTIL
I saw the price... Come on... My saws cut very well and I do have to
say That once in a while I will run into problems with rough cuts etc
but nothing big time..and nothing I can not check using simple tools
around the shop...
If I needed one even 3-4 times a year I think I may buy one... But
Sheeze I have been making sawdust for over 40 years and survived
this long without any problems...
Bob Griffiths
and honestly I am not cheap... if I need something I buy it... If I can
get by without it I just do not bother unless it saves me time (a lot of
time
in this case)
I have one and am very happy with it. I use it to align my table saw and
jointer, and haul it out once a month or so to check things as my
contractor's saw doesn't hold its settings quite as well as I'd like.
I think it is a useful tool and would not hesitate to recommend it.
Galen
"Roger Cyre" <rc...@home.com> wrote in message
news:3BAFF06F...@home.com...
"Bob" <rg...@fred.net> wrote in message news:3BB083EF...@fred.net...
Kinda like a hobbyist owning an pneumatic nailer or any powered tool. A
hammer works fine and so does a handsaw but I'm just not into Neanderism...
As a weekend warrior, I can't justify a single woodworking tool in my shop
as really needing it but I own them because I wanted them, pure and simple.
Yep, own the TS Aligner too and use it often enough to say it was worth the
price.
Best advice - if you want, go for it, justify it later.......help the
economy now...
Bob S.
I'm glad your fence is square, but the TS Aligner can be used for much more
than just squaring a fence. I've used mine to adjust and check my table
saw, RAS, and bench drill press for runout. I've only really had to USE the
thing a few times, but I feel a lot better about the accuracy and safety of
my equipment since I got it.
The way I see it, I have a few thousand invested in equipment, and I spent
$130 or so to keep it running right. For me, that is cheap insurance.
Rick
"Don" <d...@nospamm.com> wrote in message
news:Ix0s7.102415$xb.55...@news1.mntp1.il.home.com...
I have a TS Aligner Jr. The nice part is that it comes with all the
brackets and do-dahs to check just about every machine. So, if you are into
making brackets and mounts, then just get a dial indicator and a good class
2 or better square. I don't have a lot of time to work wood and when I do
get time, I don't want to making brackets. I'm much happier now that my
tools are aligned and adjusted properly.
-Jim-
"Roger Cyre" <rc...@home.com> wrote in message
news:3BAFF06F...@home.com...
I've got a $10 imported dial indicator that does just fine. Screw a
board to your miter gage, drill a hole in it to mount the indicator
and you can square up your tablesaw blade and fence. Unscrew the board
from the miter gage and clamp it to your drill press table to check
for runout. Rinse and repeat for your other tools. I like new tools
as much as the next guy, but this is one place where you don't need
to spend much money.
--
Scott Post sep...@hotpop.com http://members.home.net/sepost
I'm an owner and a user, but I'm also the manufacturer so my opinion is
probably a bit biased ;-). I've read through the replies so far and would
have to say that most are very valid and valuable opinions. I hope you don't
mind if I comment further...
1. Is a TS-Aligner (or any other alignment jig) absolutely necessary? No,
it's not. Everything that the Aligner can do for you can also be done without
it. The Aligner just makes the process a lot easier. In the same way, a
tablesaw isn't really absolutely necessary. Neither is a router, jointer, or
a drill press. Everything that they do for you can be done just as well
without them if you invest enough patience, time, and effort. In fact, a
whole bunch of fine woodworking was done long before carbon steel was first
invented.
2. If you are only looking to align the fence and blade on your table saw,
then the Aligner will be an overkill. Like one reply said, get yourself a
dial indicator and attach it to a stick of wood (visit
http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsjrlitevsdistick.htm to see how this solution
compares to the Jr. Lite).
3. Those that have said that they used their Aligner once or very infrequently
probably prefer to do most of their woodworking by trial and error with lots
of test cuts. I have a Jr. in my shop and use it all the time. Whenever I
need to square something up (like blade, miter gauge, drill press, etc.) I
grab my Jr. It's a lot easier and faster than trying to sight tiny gaps by
eye with a square. And, it saves tons of time in making precise angle
adjustments. Setting cutter heights is also a snap. If you like fiddling
around with machine adjustments and making test cuts then you probably won't
find much use for an Aligner. If you are frustrated by machine adjustments
and find yourself making little progress on your projects, then you'll learn
to appreciate what an Aligner can do for you.
4. If you are a machinist and have free access to a milling machine with DRO,
you could probably make your own dial indicator fixturing that can accomplish
all that an Aligner can do for you. You might even save yourself a few bucks
(if you don't get it anodized). But, if you have to pay for access to that
milling machine, or you have to pay someone to do it for you it will cost you
many times the price. This isn't something that you can hack out in a few
hours using a hacksaw, file, and drill press. People who say otherwise just
don't understand what they are talking about.
5. I'm giving away the Jr. video for *FREE* this year. It demonstrates many
of the things that you can do with an Aligner. Get a copy and see for
yourself if it's something you can use. At the very least, the video can help
you to get the most out of your own dial indicator jig. And, those who think
their Aligner is only good for blade/fence alignment should get one too. Just
send me an email message with your name and address (no spam will result from
your request). You can also download the entire user's guide from my web
site.
If you have any questions, please feel free to send email. If you think
others in the group would benefit from the answers, post a followup to this
message.
Thanks,
--
Ed Bennett
e...@ts-aligner.com
Home of the TS-Aligner
Visit my web site: http://www.ts-aligner.com
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Ed Bennett wrote:
>
> 3. Those that have said that they used their Aligner once or very infrequently
> probably prefer to do most of their woodworking by trial and error with lots
> of test cuts. I have a Jr. in my shop and use it all the time. Whenever I
> need to square something up (like blade, miter gauge, drill press, etc.) I
> grab my Jr. It's a lot easier and faster than trying to sight tiny gaps by
> eye with a square. And, it saves tons of time in making precise angle
> adjustments. Setting cutter heights is also a snap. If you like fiddling
> around with machine adjustments and making test cuts then you probably won't
> find much use for an Aligner. If you are frustrated by machine adjustments
> and find yourself making little progress on your projects, then you'll learn
> to appreciate what an Aligner can do for you.
>
Ed - this reason presupposes a need to constantly readjust the tools. If
I set up the table saw so the blade, miter slot and fence are all
parallel I expect it to stay that way for a long time. As far as blade
height goes I find the most difficult part not the ability to measure
but getting the blade turned to top dead center. Besides I find that a
large percentage of my cuts are through cuts so height isn't important.
Please don't think that I do not think the Aligner is a good
instrument. It's just that I find it more of a periodic calibration
instrument rather than a routine need for a day in the shop.
John
"Ed Bennett" <ej...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:9os3i8$6at$1...@nntp9.atl.mindspring.net...
> 4. If you are a machinist and have free access to a milling machine with
DRO,
> you could probably make your own dial indicator fixturing that can
accomplish
> all that an Aligner can do for you. You might even save yourself a few
bucks
> (if you don't get it anodized). But, if you have to pay for access to
that
> milling machine, or you have to pay someone to do it for you it will cost
you
> many times the price. This isn't something that you can hack out in a few
> hours using a hacksaw, file, and drill press. People who say otherwise
just
> don't understand what they are talking about.
>
Martin Cohn
1524 Willard Street
San Francisco, CA 94117
Euro combination machines often have "non-standard" dovetail
miter slots. Ed modifies the TS-A at no extra cost, a rare
thing these days.
Slick tool and given all the machining and bearings etc.
the price is right when you consider what a good 3' straight
edge runs.
Thank you Mr. Bennett.
Someday I want to get one of the newer ones, as it will do a bit more
and do it a bit better than my old one.
Tony
On Tue, 25 Sep 2001 11:03:58 GMT, Walt Akers <ak...@twisted-oaks.org>
wrote:
Hi John. Yes, you are absolutely right. If you don't change any of
the adjustments on your machines and tools, then you'll likely find
the Aligner to be an overkill. But, a tablesaw (for example) has a
lot more adjustments than just blade and fence alignment. Many of
these adjustments (like blade tilt and miter gauge setting) are
intended to be used frequently. Some people avoid changing them
because it is so difficult to obtain accurate adjustments by trial and
error (and the scales are useless for anything but crude
approximations). This is a case where the Aligner comes in handy on a
regular basis. It accounts for probably 75% of my regular Aligner
use.
Same is true for something like a drill press. How many times do you
need to check spindle and chuck runout? Not very often! But, how
many times do you need to make sure that the hole you are drilling is
going to be absolutely square? If you've ever done any chair work,
you know that all the mortise/tennon joints are angled. How do you
ensure that left and right sides are complimentary (match)? Trial and
error? Or, do you just trust the table tilt scale and figure you can
force fit (or hide) any problems that result? Maybe, like lots of
woodworkers, you just plain avoid difficult projects like chairs. To
me, that's just not an acceptable solution. The Aligner shines here
too.
Do you run a jointer with dull knives just because they are difficult
to change? Do you tolerate snipe at the ends of your jointed edges
because it's difficult to properly set the outfeed table? Do you
always leave the jointer fence in the same place, at 90 degrees? Why?
Wouldn't it be better to take full advantage of all the features on a
jointer? Wouldn't it be better to make use of the full width of the
knives by positioning the fence? Wouldn't it be better to maintain
sharp knives that all cut equally (properly adjusted)? Of course it
would, but lots of woodworkers don't.
I also agree with you about blade height settings on a table saw.
Even when you are using a dado blade, it's rare that the height
setting is critical. But, what about making raised panel doors on a
shaper or router table? Height settings on the rail/stile cutter sets
are quite critical. Why waste time and wood doing this by trial and
error if you have an Aligner? And, the height adjustment on lock
miter bits is also quite critical. It can be done in seconds with an
Aligner, or you can do it by trial and error...
Basically, all woodworking machines have adjustments beyond basic
alignment that are intended for regular use. Unfortunately, the
manufacturers of these machines have seen fit to equip them with
incredibly crude adjustment mechanisms. You can:
1. Avoid changing these settings (and lose a lot of functionality)
2. Avoid projects that require precise settings or use tips and tricks
to hide errors (an unacceptable compromise in my opinion)
3. Arrive at proper settings by trial and error (tedius and
frustrating in my opinion)
3. You can use a precise measurement instrument to make the
adjustments quickly and accurately (obviously my preference).
Hi CW,
The only part that I really prefer DRO for is the Angle Attachment
Gauge. The center to center distance between the indicator stem hole
and the stylus point should be very precise or angle measurements will
be off. Everything else is rather insensitive.
"Ed Bennett" <e...@ts-aligner.com> wrote in message
news:1f1cd3fa.01092...@posting.google.com...