Disassembly of Stanley Plane Frog for Restoring old Planes.
David F. Eisan
I bought a few planes on Eb*y recently,
http://members.rogers.com/moreweb/images/planes.jpg
I have taken them all apart and I am starting to remove the rust with
electrolysis,
http://members.rogers.com/moreweb/images/overall.jpg
I am having difficulty with how to take apart two pieces,
http://members.rogers.com/moreweb/images/frog.jpg
I want to remove the lateral adjustment lever and the advancement fork. I
have circled the two "rivets" that hold them in. Are these just mild steel
rod that has been peened over? How can I remove them? How can I put them
back?
Also, any idea on how to remove the blade advancement screw?
I plan on repainting the planes, that is why I want all these parts off.
Thanks,
David.
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Jeff
IMO, if you really want to do this, the yoke pin is the easiest to
remove. Look for the smaller pin head and with the right size punch
gently tap it out. A drop or two of penetrating oil before hand helps.
You need to give the frog some support. I take a scrap block of pine,
drill a hole a little larger that the pin. Set the frog down with the
pin over the hole and patiently tap it out. Use a flat head punch not a
pointy one or you run the risk of expanding the pin and cracking the
casting.
I don't have the nerve to do the lateral adjustment pin. My late
neighbor wanted to paint the frog on his transitional and was tapping
out (from the bottom) the pin for the lateral adjuster and the left top
of the frog cracked off with the lever. The casting is thinner there and
I haven't found a way to support it with confidence.
IMHO, leave the adjustment screw alone and cover it with tape if all
you are doing is spray painting it. They are easier to get out then in,
if you get any paint in the hole. You can remove it by wrapping it with
a piece of rubber inner tube and a small vise grip pliers. But why run
the risk of damaging the threads?
Maybe someone else has some better ideas, the above is just my .02.
Jeff
Dr. Rev. Chuck, M.D. P.A.
>
> Dear All,
>
> I bought a few planes on Eb*y recently,
>
> http://members.rogers.com/moreweb/images/planes.jpg
>
> I have taken them all apart and I am starting to remove the rust with
> electrolysis,
>
> http://members.rogers.com/moreweb/images/overall.jpg
>
> I am having difficulty with how to take apart two pieces,
>
> http://members.rogers.com/moreweb/images/frog.jpg
>
> I want to remove the lateral adjustment lever and the advancement fork. I
> have circled the two "rivets" that hold them in. Are these just mild steel
> rod that has been peened over? How can I remove them? How can I put them
> back?
The fork "rivet" is a drift pin. Tap it through and out with a drift *punch*
(yes, they do make a tool solely for this purpose) or a piece of smaller
diameter rod, such as a soft iron nail with the end filed flat.
The lateral rivet _is_ a rivet, peened on both ends. Best to leave it.
But, if you're committed, it can be drilled out. You'll need a replacement.
For my #6, I took out the lateral rivet so I could lap the top face flat
(overkill, I know). No such replacement could be found locally.
I ended up taking a piece of 1/2" x 1" mild steel scrap and drilling a hole
through, same size as the rivet shank, then countersunk it about 1/32" deep.
Into this die, I slipped a bit of cutoff nail. Three swats with a ball peen
hammer, I had a neat little rivet ready to install.
Installation was the tricky part. Assembled the lever, frog, and rivet, with a
piece of paper under the lever to shim it for necessary slop. I then held
the frog face down on an anvil (railroad track cutoff) and peened the rivet
shut with a homemade dome punch. Three hands would have been nice. Tugged
out the shim, everything worked fine.
> Also, any idea on how to remove the blade advancement screw?
I didn't bother. I imagine it can be done by jamming a hexnut against
the advancement wheel, then unscrewing it with a wrench. OTOH, I didn't
see why it was necessary. First, do no harm...
> I plan on repainting the planes, that is why I want all these parts off.
Masking tape or a steady hand. Any traces of paint that _do_ get into the
threads can be picked out with an awl before they cure hard.
What brush are you using? Red sable model brushes work very well, though
aren't cheap. Restoring three planes should justify the cost.
Larry Jaques
<dfe...@rogers.splinter.com> pixelated:
>I want to remove the lateral adjustment lever and the advancement fork. I
>have circled the two "rivets" that hold them in. Are these just mild steel
>rod that has been peened over? How can I remove them? How can I put them
>back?
>
>Also, any idea on how to remove the blade advancement screw?
>
>I plan on repainting the planes, that is why I want all these parts off.
Aw, there's no need to remove those pieces. Just
spray them, too. A pale yellow would look nice.
Or a salmon/chartreuce combo would be tres chic!
-
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CW
destroyed, replacement becomes a problem.
I thought this was serious for a minute but after looking at the name, I
tend to think there is some serious leg pulling going on.
"David F. Eisan" <dfe...@rogers.splinter.com> wrote in message
news:g6Lha.63117$s421....@news02.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
> Dear All,
David F. Eisan
> I thought this was serious for a minute but after looking at the name, I
> tend to think there is some serious leg pulling going on.
I am quite serious, check out the links, I am totally stripping and
rebuilding these 3 planes.
Geez, people believe my fake posts and then don't believe my real posts.
Damn.
Fred the Red Shirt
> Hello there,
>
> > I thought this was serious for a minute but after looking at the name, I
> > tend to think there is some serious leg pulling going on.
>
> I am quite serious, check out the links, I am totally stripping and
> rebuilding these 3 planes.
>
Those frogs are grey cast iron. Be sure to support it from the back
anytime you tap on.
You do not have to remove those parts to do the electrolysis.
You can run multiple wires and aligator clips to each to make
sure you have a good electrical connection and de-rust them in
place. You can mask the parts you don't want to paint.
I use a brass brush and hot soapy water to scrub off the
black residue immediately after cutting off the power, and then
pop the parts into the oven at about 200 F to dry.
Then I take them out of the oven and while still hot I coat them
with Johnson's paste wax. I don't bother with painting.
Electrolysis does not remove Japaning unless there is rust
underneath or you leave it in for several days. That's one
reason why I just wax and don't repaint. The other is I'm
lazy.
--
FF
Patrick Olguin (O'Deen)
In all seriousness, those planes don't need electrolysis. Really. Electrolysis
is the last resort of the tool nut. It's generally reserved for tools that are
rusted nearly beyond recognition - deeply pitted adzes, saws, vises -
seriously, deeply rusted old hulks that simple can't be rehabbed any other
way.
Those planes appear to be super clean, requiring the minorest of cleaning.
Now, if you had three basket cases, I'd say go for it. Zap 'em, strip 'em and
repaint 'em, but geeze, David, those planes have what's called "patina." I'm
no Luddite freak, but I'd hate to see you barking up the wrong tree, wasting a
bunch of time repainting some tools that really only need an hour of clean-up
total (from what I can tell looking through the computer-glass).
Two cents from a lazy plane junkie who's done a couple hunnert of these.
O'Deen
--
http://www.klownhammer.org
Come, let us retract the foreskin of misconception, and apply the wire brush
of enlightenment
David F. Eisan
<snip of, don't zap 'em, they look fine>
This is why I am convinced that Norm's work looks like shit in person.
In a photograph, these planes look almost ready to go, in reality they need
lots of work,
http://members.rogers.com/moreweb/images/planebottoms.jpg
All three planes have some pitting and rust that does not look nearly as
serious in the photo as it does in person.
Plus, I am really doing this because I want to try my hand at it, I really
don't need any more planes.
It turns out I have crossed the bridge of user to collector recently. My Dad
comes in the house after passing through the garage and says, "What the hell
do you need over 30 planes for?" I reply, "There is *no* way there are that
many planes out there." I go check, and Ayup, there are 32 planes. I didn't
even realise how bad it was getting...
Thanks,
David, who has a bunch of new LN's anyway.
brocpuffs
<dfe...@rogers.splinter.com> wrote:
<snip>
>
>Thanks,
>
>David, who has a bunch of new LN's anyway.
>
David, you seriously need to think about those of us, your loyal,
devoted audience and supporters, who have fewer planes than you do. In
this democratic country, imbalances should be evened out just ASAP.
Jamers
jcan...@rochester.rr.com
Larry Jaques
>Dear Paddy,
>
><snip of, don't zap 'em, they look fine>
>
>This is why I am convinced that Norm's work looks like shit in person.
>
>In a photograph, these planes look almost ready to go, in reality they need
>lots of work,
<g>
>http://members.rogers.com/moreweb/images/planebottoms.jpg
A small piece of 0000 steel wool dipped into the Johnson's
Wax can would fix all of those in about four minutes flat.
>It turns out I have crossed the bridge of user to collector recently. My Dad
Ohhhhhhhhh, why didn't you say that before? As your sig
implies, there went the neighborhood. (U omitted for clarity)
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Fred the Red Shirt
> David,
> In all seriousness, those planes don't need electrolysis. Really. Electrolysis
> is the last resort of the tool nut. It's generally reserved for tools that are
> rusted nearly beyond recognition - deeply pitted adzes, saws, vises -
> seriously, deeply rusted old hulks that simple can't be rehabbed any other
> way.
>
> Those planes appear to be super clean, requiring the minorest of cleaning.
> Now, if you had three basket cases, I'd say go for it. Zap 'em, strip 'em and
> repaint 'em, but geeze, David, those planes have what's called "patina." I'm
> no Luddite freak, but I'd hate to see you barking up the wrong tree, wasting a
> bunch of time repainting some tools that really only need an hour of clean-up
> total (from what I can tell looking through the computer-glass).
> > Two cents from a lazy plane junkie who's done a couple hunnert of these.
>
Once you're set up for electroylis it would only take about an hour
of labor total to clear up those three planes using electrolysis--plus
it'll take a lot less elbow grease. Most of that labor is spent
doing the same things you'd do cleaning them by any other method--
like taking them apart and putting them back together. It may take
a whole day or so from start to finish but most of that time I'll be
doing something else while the planes burble in the vat or dry in
the oven.
Plus it's really cool. Makes you feel like a mad scientist.
--
FF