"Ripping" baseboard on a router table?
DerbyDad03
your basic home-center baseboard.
I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".
The questions:
Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass or should I plan on two?
What size bit should I use?
Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)
Note: I don't believe that quarter-round will be installed, so I need
a good finished "cut". I'm traveling 300 miles to dad's house to do
some chores, so I want to be prepared to knock this one off fairly
quickly.
Thanks!
routerman
> I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
> your basic home-center baseboard.
>
> I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
> fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
> remove the ~1/4".
>
Academic: I'd take 3, ~3/64/pass
Cutter: Straight, at least 3/4 x 3/4 w/1/2 shank.
Practical/safety: High risk, the work may self feed, break the cutter
or kick back. I'd saw the stuff.
Safety?? See http://patwarner.com/safety.html
*************************************************************
dpb
For pine, you could give it a go, but for a good finish guaranteed you
may find a second clean-up pass is better.
I'd use a 1/2" or greater _HIGH_QUALITY_ (Amana, Whiteside, etc.)
straight or spiral-cut carbide.
If there's quite a lot of this, an alternative would be to make a
temporary saw table for the skilsaw, mounting it upside down and a fixed
fence just a little proud of final width then cleanup w/ router or a
handplane.
--
"<<<__ Bøb __>>>"
one of them and use the table in a jointer configuration. This should
be perfectly safe, and I would still do it in 2 passes.
Doug Miller
>On May 27, 5:24=A0am, DerbyDad03 <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
>> your basic home-center baseboard.
>>
>> I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
>> fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
>> remove the ~1/4".
>>
>
>Academic: I'd take 3, ~3/64/pass
>Cutter: Straight, at least 3/4 x 3/4 w/1/2 shank.
>Practical/safety: High risk, the work may self feed, break the cutter
>or kick back. I'd saw the stuff.
>Safety?? See http://patwarner.com/safety.html
AMEN! DerbyDad, please read the above page, and pay particular attention to
the last bullet point, "Full thickness router table cuts".
DerbyDad03
> On May 27, 5:24 am, DerbyDad03 <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
> > I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
> > your basic home-center baseboard.
>
> > I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
> > fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
> > remove the ~1/4".
>
> Academic: I'd take 3, ~3/64/pass
> Cutter: Straight, at least 3/4 x 3/4 w/1/2 shank.
> Practical/safety: High risk, the work may self feed, break the cutter
> or kick back. I'd saw the stuff.
> *************************************************************
>
> The questions:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass or should I plan on two?
>
> > What size bit should I use?
>
> > Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)
>
> > Note: I don't believe that quarter-round will be installed, so I need
> > a good finished "cut". I'm traveling 300 miles to dad's house to do
> > some chores, so I want to be prepared to knock this one off fairly
> > quickly.
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
re: "I'd saw the stuff."
With what? I don't have access to a portable table saw and I doubt I
could neatly cut a 1/4" off of a kitchen's worth of baseboard with a
circular or sabre saw.
I guess I could grab $100 table saw from Harbor Freight but I don't
really need one. My full size table saw fits my needs, but I can't
haul it 300 miles to the job site.
DerbyDad03
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yes, basically an infeed and outfeed fence.
To do 2 passes I assume I should set the infeed fence to remove 1/8"
of material, position the outfeed fence flush with the front of the
bit, and run the material through twice.
Should I use a "down force" feather board on both fences or just the
infeed?
DerbyDad03
> In article <2769b89b-3dfc-4a38-b45a-ed10ebaaa...@32g2000prq.googlegroups.com>, routerman <p...@patwarner.com> wrote:
>
> >On May 27, 5:24=A0am, DerbyDad03 <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >> I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
> >> your basic home-center baseboard.
>
> >> I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
> >> fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
> >> remove the ~1/4".
>
> >Academic: I'd take 3, ~3/64/pass
> >Cutter: Straight, at least 3/4 x 3/4 w/1/2 shank.
> >Practical/safety: High risk, the work may self feed, break the cutter
> >or kick back. I'd saw the stuff.
>
> AMEN! DerbyDad, please read the above page, and pay particular attention to
> the last bullet point, "Full thickness router table cuts".
I had already read the last bullet prior to your suggestion. :-)
If I am using the infeed and outfeed fences, leaving the 1/16" - 3/32"
of material would required the fences to be even and I would then need
to go back a remove the material in some other manner, correct?
Why wouldn't the 2 fence method, with the infeed fence 1/8" back from
the face of the bit and with feather boards holding the material in
place, be safe?
The baseboard is only, what, 1/2" thick? It seems that a 3/4 straight
bit would remove 1/8" x 1/2" of pine without even knowing it was
there.
I might be missing something...what would that be?
Leon
"DerbyDad03" <teama...@eznet.net> wrote in message
news:38d03c22-2522-4040...@i31g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...
For best quality final cut and as others have mentioned, the last pass
should be slight, take out the bulk with 2~3 passes and follow up with the
last pass.
Should I use a "down force" feather board on both fences or just the
infeed?
Down force if working with long pieces which may bow up at the cutter.
Keeping the work flat against the table will yield safer, cleaner and
smoother cuts.
Doug Miller
>On May 27, 9:55=A0am, spamb...@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:
>> In article <2769b89b-3dfc-4a38-b45a-ed10ebaaa...@32g2000prq.googlegroups.=
>> >> I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
>> >> your basic home-center baseboard.
>>
>> >> I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
>> >> fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
>> >> remove the ~1/4".
>>
>> >Academic: I'd take 3, ~3/64/pass
>> >Cutter: Straight, at least 3/4 x 3/4 w/1/2 shank.
>> >Practical/safety: High risk, the work may self feed, break the cutter
>> >or kick back. I'd saw the stuff.
>> >Safety?? Seehttp://patwarner.com/safety.html
>>
>> AMEN! DerbyDad, please read the above page, and pay particular attention to
>> the last bullet point, "Full thickness router table cuts".
>
>I had already read the last bullet prior to your suggestion. :-)
>
>If I am using the infeed and outfeed fences, leaving the 1/16" - 3/32"
>of material would required the fences to be even and I would then need
>to go back a remove the material in some other manner, correct?
Yes, but that's not rocket surgery. :-)
1/16 is thin enough that you can break it off with your fingers. Then clean up
the edge with a block plane.
>
>Why wouldn't the 2 fence method, with the infeed fence 1/8" back from
>the face of the bit and with feather boards holding the material in
>place, be safe?
You need to feed the wood past an exposed bit. I'd set the bit height to just
clear the workpiece -- the less it sticks up above the work, the safer it is.
Greater risk of a kickback, too.
>
>The baseboard is only, what, 1/2" thick? It seems that a 3/4 straight
>bit would remove 1/8" x 1/2" of pine without even knowing it was
>there.
>
>I might be missing something...what would that be?
Just as long as it's not fingertips... Be careful of the exposed bit, and pay
attention to the correct feed direction.
DerbyDad03
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks Doug. Your bit height suggestion was exactly what I was
thinking.
This is by no means my first time using the router table, so feed
direction and fingertip clearance is not an issue - not something I'd
ignore, but not an issue, if you know what I mean.
I've done roundovers and rabbets for years, this is my first "ripping"
so to speak, and only being done because of the location of the
jobsite.
P.S. While I appreciate everyone's concern, why is the use of an
exposed straight bit any different than using a double roundover bit
like the one shown below? In my mind, it seems safer since the
material is not "trapped" between any flutes.
Lew Hodgett
"DerbyDad03" wrote:
>I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
> your basic home-center baseboard.
>
> I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with
> 2
> fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
> remove the ~1/4".
>
> The questions:
>
> Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass or should I plan on two?
----------------------------------
I'd do it in two passes using split fence.
-----------------------------------
> What size bit should I use?
3/4 with 1/2 shank.
-----------------------------------
> Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)
--------------------------------------------
Multiple featherboards to eliminate kick back and keep board against
fence.
Guard to cover the cutter exposure.
You are basically performing a jointer function with a router.
Plan accordingly.
Lew
dadiOH
> I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
> your basic home-center baseboard.
>
> I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
> fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
> remove the ~1/4".
>
> The questions:
>
> Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass
Yes
> or should I plan on two?
Yes. At *least* two (I'd probably use four). Remember that router bits
don't normally slice, they chop. They exert a lot of force when chopping
and it is not entirely unknown for them to split off pieces that shouldn't
have been split off.
> What size bit should I use?
I like 3/4" for trimming like that.
> Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)
No need for feather boards IMO.
> Note: I don't believe that quarter-round will be installed, so I need
> a good finished "cut".
Then do it 1/16 at a time.
> I'm traveling 300 miles to dad's house to do
> some chores, so I want to be prepared to knock this one off fairly
> quickly.
If you are going to install the baseboard and if you want to save
aggravation, bevel the bottom edge toward the back of the baseboard. That
way when you find the floor isn't flat - and it won't be - you can whip out
your block plane and skinny down just the thin, front edge where needed
instead of the whole bottom.
You don't need much of a bevel, maybe 4-5 degrees, and you can do it on a
router table with a straight bit by sticking down a narrow, full width strip
of laminate or hardboard on the table close to the bit with double stick
tape. You then have three contact points for the baseboard...the router
fence, the elevated strip and the table itself. The thickness of the strip
and the distance of its front edge - the one away from the bit - from the
bit determine the angle. Easy, peasy. What you *don't* want is a strip so
wide or so far back from the bit that you can tip the work downwards toward
the bit.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Puckdropper at dot
269ec6...@y21g2000vba.googlegroups.com:
>
> With what? I don't have access to a portable table saw and I doubt I
> could neatly cut a 1/4" off of a kitchen's worth of baseboard with a
> circular or sabre saw.
>
> I guess I could grab $100 table saw from Harbor Freight but I don't
> really need one. My full size table saw fits my needs, but I can't
> haul it 300 miles to the job site.
>
>
Many circular and sabre saws have fence kits that may work poorly for
this application. The ones I've seen just seem to be too small for
ripping work.
Making a make-shift table saw could work. Mount the circular saw upside
down on a piece of plywood, and use a straight 2x as a fence. You could
even screw the fence down since it won't need to move.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
-MIKE-
> Making a make-shift table saw could work. Mount the circular saw upside
> down on a piece of plywood, and use a straight 2x as a fence. You could
> even screw the fence down since it won't need to move.
>
> Puckdropper
>
I've done that very thing and it worked great.
As for the router table.... I think some are making rocket surgery out
of it.
With a 1/4" shim on the outfeed fence and a 1/2 straight bit (or any
spiral cut version), there's not reason he can't take it all off at
once. Assuming the trim is standard 1/2"-ish thick stuff, a good
rabbeting bit could hog it out faster.
As for feather boards.... one on each side, pushing towards the fence is
all you really need*. The act of pushing the stock through the bit will
be enough to hold it down.
*and you wouldn't really "need" those, but they'd be a good set of
helping hands.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Josepi
it for a circular saw fence.
Of course this all depends on how wide your trim is.
I have done this for many trim pieces, including tigerwood flooring and MDF
door jam extensions for 2x8 walls. It's awkward at first but I have never
owned a table saw and probably won't. Good packing tape or ducttape (the
grey kind that isn't for ducts) works well.
"DerbyDad03" <teama...@eznet.net> wrote in message
news:444e4e2e-1a7e-4dca-b588-> > some chores, so I
-MIKE-
> Shim level, and tape the stuff to bigger stock and clamp a straight edge to
> it for a circular saw fence.
>
I've done that and it works great. Carpet tape would do the job.
You'd be surprised at the nice edge a new 7-1/4" fine blade can leave.
dpb
...
> With what? I don't have access to a portable table saw and I doubt I
> could neatly cut a 1/4" off of a kitchen's worth of baseboard with a
> circular or sabre saw.
>
...
Why not, pray tell?
In less than 30 minutes or so you could make a temporary table for the
skilsaw upside down thru a piece of ply and have a quite serviceable
temporary TS for the purpose....
--
John Grossbohlin
With the two piece fence and a large diameter bit you probably could do it
if the wood is pine and not more than the 5/8" or so thick stuff. Use
feather boards to hold it tight to the fence.
Another option, if you have a portable thickness planner you could make a
jig to stand the baseboard on edge upside down... angle it a bit to back
bevel the bottom so it's easier to scribe to the floor. I think this would
be easier if you have any volume of wood to do.
John
Nova
Do you have a circular saw equipped with an edge guide?
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
nov...@verizon.net
"<<<__ Bøb __>>>"
Use your router table with the offset fences .. use the largest bit you can swing .. use featherboards or at least guide blocks .. use reasonable caution .. all should be well.
-MIKE-
> Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
> had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..
Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
Is that not still a rip cut?
(not arguing)
Swingman
> On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "<<<__ B�b __>>>" wrote:
>> Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
>> had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..
>
> Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
> 5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
> kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
>
> Is that not still a rip cut?
>
> (not arguing)
On my table saw it would indeed be a rip cut, and I would have a 1/8"
strip left for the scrap bin ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
dpb
> On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "<<<__ B�b __>>>" wrote:
>> Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
>> had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..
>
> Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
> 5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
> kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
That's some thick TS blade (like a dado set w/ a 1/4" width)... :)
Even a standard kerf would leave sliver.
The difference imo is that a 1/4" is quite a hogging operation w/ any
router leading to the possibility of splitting ahead of the cut if try
it in a single pass or requiring at least two passes whereas a sawing
operation does it in one. If there's only a piece or two to do, no real
problem; if talking about a whole houseful of baseboard, that gets to be
a sizable amount of effort...
--
Larry Jaques
wrote the following:
>On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "<<<__ B�b __>>>" wrote:
>> Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
>> had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..
>
>Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
>5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
>kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
I just did that but there was a small offcut. And that was with a
full-width januwine HF chiwanese carbide blade, too! My Freud Diablo
came yesterday and I'm going to install it and try it out over the
weekend. It's a thin-kerf job.
>Is that not still a rip cut?
>(not arguing)
Yes, it's a rip.
---------------------------------------------------
I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol.
---------------------------------------------------
-MIKE-
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "<<<__ B�b __>>>" wrote:
>>> Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
>>> had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..
>>
>> Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
>> 5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
>> kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
> ...
>
> That's some thick TS blade (like a dado set w/ a 1/4" width)... :)
>
Substitute 1/8" if it gets you past the metal block. :-)
> Even a standard kerf would leave sliver.
>
> The difference imo is that a 1/4" is quite a hogging operation w/ any
> router leading to the possibility of splitting ahead of the cut if try
> it in a single pass or requiring at least two passes whereas a sawing
> operation does it in one. If there's only a piece or two to do, no real
> problem; if talking about a whole houseful of baseboard, that gets to be
> a sizable amount of effort...
>
Using a good, sharp bit and a strong router, going in the proper direction
(downhill grain), shouldn't even make you think twice about taking
off 1/4".
I see guys at the woodworking shows, demonstrating their panel bits, who
run the entire profile at once and the cut is clean as a whistle.
I suppose if you're using a little $99 router and a 5 bucks straight
bit, you'd have to sneak up on a 1/4."
-MIKE-
>> Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
>> 5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
>> kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
>
> I just did that but there was a small offcut. And that was with a
> full-width januwine HF chiwanese carbide blade, too! My Freud Diablo
> came yesterday and I'm going to install it and try it out over the
> weekend. It's a thin-kerf job.
>
Yeah, I guess I used too big a number in my haste.
But, you know what I'm saying.
>
>> Is that not still a rip cut?
>> (not arguing)
>
> Yes, it's a rip.
>
Exactly. My only point was that the guy's original wording shouldn't
have puzzled any of the experienced guys in here.
"<<<__ Bøb __>>>"
On 5/28/2010 11:56 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "<<<__ B�b __>>>" wrote:
>> Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
>> had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..
>
> Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
> 5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
> kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
>
> Is that not still a rip cut?
>
> (not arguing)
No more a "rip" cut than if you removed 1/4" on a jointer .. .. just
semantics.
-MIKE-
So there has to be a cut-off (waste) piece in order for it to be a rip?
"<<<__ Bøb __>>>"
No more a "rip" cut than if you removed 1/4" on a jointer .. .. just
semantics.
So there has to be a cut-off (waste) piece in order for it to be a rip?
From WIKIPEDIA : In woodworking, a rip cut is a cut made parallel to the wood grain. Rip cuts are commonly made with a table saw, but other types of saws can also be used, including hand rip saws, radial arm saws and band saws.
Kinda implies that we're talking about types of saws when referring to a rip cut .. not routers or jointers. In other words .. you can certainly NARROW a board using a jointer or router .. but it doesn't meet the criteria for calling it a "rip". I mean .. if someone gave you a piece of lumber and asked you to rip it in half .. would you head to the router table or the table saw ?? I don't think a rip operation mandates a piece of waste .. I think a rip operation implies it will be done with some type of saw as stated in the WIKI definition. Heck .. I don't care if you get a trained beaver to chew it off .. it will result in a narrower piece of stock, but it wouldn't have been ripped to get there.
-MIKE-
>
>>> No more a "rip" cut than if you removed 1/4" on a jointer .. .. just
>>> semantics.
>>
>> So there has to be a cut-off (waste) piece in order for it to be a rip?
>>
>>
> Did I ever say that ?? ?? ?? I don't think so !! !! !!
>
> From WIKIPEDIA : In woodworking
> parallel to the wood grain <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_grain>.
> Rip cuts are commonly made with a table saw
> also be used, including hand <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_saw> rip
> saws <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_saw>, radial arm saws
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_arm_saw> and band saws
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Band_saw>.
>
> Kinda implies that we're talking about types of saws when referring to a
> rip cut .. not routers or jointers. In other words .. you can certainly
> NARROW a board using a jointer or router .. but it doesn't meet the
> criteria for calling it a "rip". I mean .. if someone gave you a piece
> of lumber and asked you to rip it in half .. would you head to the
> router table or the table saw ?? I don't think a rip operation mandates
> a piece of waste .. I think a rip operation implies it will be done with
> some type of saw as stated in the WIKI definition. Heck .. I don't care
> if you get a trained beaver to chew it off .. it will result in a
> narrower piece of stock, but it wouldn't have been ripped to get there.
>
I know that... and apparently you know that....and any experienced
woodworker knows that. But you gave the guy a hard time for using the
wrong words.... when we all knew what he was talking about from his
description.
So I would think the only confusion would be from inexperienced
woodworkers, whose advice one probably wouldn't want. Nor from people
who would get "weird" on someone asking for advice but not use the exact
terminology you prefer.
Josepi
""<<<__ Bøb __>>>"" <b.wi...@charter.net> wrote in message news:KVWLn.116511$0M5....@newsfe07.iad...
"<<<__ Bøb __>>>"
>
> I know that... and apparently you know that....and any experienced
> woodworker knows that. But you gave the guy a hard time for using the
> wrong words.... when we all knew what he was talking about from his
> description.
>
>
Man, have you ever misinterpreted what I wrote !! !! !!
I wasn't giving the OP a hard time at all .. .. I was kinda being
apologetic for all the silly controversy he got as responses. I mean
.. kickbacks & finger-removing problems .. gimme' a break already.
-MIKE-
Relax, man. I said in the first post I wasn't arguing.
Sorry if it's coming across that way. I'm not the one using exclamation
points. :-p
dpb
...
> Using a good, sharp bit and a strong router, going in the proper direction
> (downhill grain), shouldn't even make you think twice about taking
> off 1/4".
In this case, he's no control over grain; he's got to take it off the
bottom edge and run in direction of feed. Only alternative is to have
two setups to feed from opposite bit sides which adds even more pita
factor the operation.
Sure, it _CAN_ be done; I just don't think it's the best/easiest by far
unless it's only a few pieces...
$0.02, imo, ymmv, etc., etc., etc., ...
--
DerbyDad03
re: "I wasn't giving the OP a hard time at all"
BTW...I took it like you meant it. We're good! :-)
You'll also noticed I put the words "rip" in quotes cuz I knew it
wasn't really a "rip".
Of all the tools I have, a jointer is not amongst the group, so asking
about using a router as a jointer wasn't something that came to mind.
Anyway, as I was loading up the tools to come to Dad's house, I
remembered that I still have my old Hirsch Saw Table from 20(?) years
ago buried in the back of the shed. Long ago I put a piece of plywood
on top and have used it as a portable work bench on occasion.
I threw it in the van, but I'm not sure if the mounting plate is
intact or if my PC left-hand circular saw will mount to it. I was
going to clamp the router table to it, but maybe I'll take the plywood
off and see if I can make it work as a table saw.
PS It's only about 15 feet worth.
Larry Jaques
wrote the following:
>On 5/28/10 4:18 PM, "<<<__ B�b __>>>" wrote:
>>
>>
>> On 5/28/2010 11:56 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "<<<__ B�b __>>>" wrote:
>>>> Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
>>>> had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..
>>>
>>> Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
>>> 5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
>>> kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
>>>
>>> Is that not still a rip cut?
>>>
>>> (not arguing)
>> No more a "rip" cut than if you removed 1/4" on a jointer .. .. just
>> semantics.
>
>So there has to be a cut-off (waste) piece in order for it to be a rip?
Not in my book, there doesn't. I often rip an RCH off a board to get
it to fit or clean up the look. But the -usual- outcome of rip cuts =
2 pieces, and one of them is not necessarily waste. The definition of
rip is to cut with the grain, so planes, jointers, and even some
router cuts could be considered rips.
-MIKE-
I guess I was thinking if the grain is running up hill when sitting
wall-side down, flip the trim piece end to end so it's sitting wall-side
up and the grain will be running downhill.
Puckdropper at dot
news:nd3106pbbt9ulkedk...@4ax.com:
>
> Not in my book, there doesn't. I often rip an RCH off a board to get
> it to fit or clean up the look. But the -usual- outcome of rip cuts =
> 2 pieces, and one of them is not necessarily waste. The definition of
> rip is to cut with the grain, so planes, jointers, and even some
> router cuts could be considered rips.
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol.
> ---------------------------------------------------
A "rip" like the OP needed would actually be a cross cut. The router bit
cuts across the grain while producing a rip-cut like result.
Cutting along the end grain with a router bit would be a form of rip cut,
as the blade is cutting along the grain.
John Grossbohlin
>On May 28, 6:47 pm, "<<<__ B�b __>>>" <b.wing...@charter.net> wrote:
>PS It's only about 15 feet worth.
Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! Working to a
line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
care of that!
JAG ;~)
Larry Jaques
<grossbo...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote the following:
Setting up a plane for use as a/on a shooting board, _and_ performing
the work, wouldn't have taken as long to set up than his posting has
so far. ;)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan7.htm #51-52
DerbyDad03
<grossboj.nos...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> >"DerbyDad03" <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote in message
> >news:af3f9976-653c-4529...@q8g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
> >On May 28, 6:47 pm, "<<<__ Bøb __>>>" <b.wing...@charter.net> wrote:
> >PS It's only about 15 feet worth.
>
> Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! Working to a
> line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
> care of that!
>
> JAG ;~)
Assuming I actually had a a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even
a spoke shave. :-)
-MIKE-
>>
>> Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! Working to a
>> line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
>> care of that!
>>
>> JAG ;~)
>
> Assuming I actually had a a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even
> a spoke shave. :-)
Take it out to the driveway or street, concrete or asphalt.
Push down, slide back and forth, 1/4" gone in about 1/2 hr. :-)
Morris Dovey
> On May 29, 8:28 am, "John Grossbohlin"
> <grossboj.nos...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>>> "DerbyDad03"<teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote in message
>>> news:af3f9976-653c-4529...@q8g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
>>> PS It's only about 15 feet worth.
>>
>> Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! Working to a
>> line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
>> care of that!
>>
>> JAG ;~)
>
> Assuming I actually had a a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even
> a spoke shave. :-)
It's normal here to assume that posters have some means of reshaping wood.
If you're without, perhaps you can visit a store that has these tools on
its shelves and explain that you'd like to "preserve" one them...
--
Morris Dovey
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
John Grossbohlin
"Morris Dovey" <mrd...@iedu.com> wrote in message
news:htrp5k$66n$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
Yes, preserve some L-N stuff for someone to pick up at a yard sale for a
penny on the dollar after you're gone. "Not sure if it works or not, my
father never used it."
John
Larry Jaques
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote the following:
>On May 29, 8:28�am, "John Grossbohlin"
><grossboj.nos...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>> >"DerbyDad03" <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote in message
>> >news:af3f9976-653c-4529...@q8g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
>> >On May 28, 6:47 pm, "<<<__ B�b __>>>" <b.wing...@charter.net> wrote:
>> >PS It's only about 15 feet worth.
>>
>> Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! �Working to a
>> line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
>> care of that!
>>
>> JAG ;~)
>
>Assuming I actually had a a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even
>a spoke shave. :-)
Yet another tragedy concerning the poor, disadvantaged Normites!
DerbyDad03
> On Sat, 29 May 2010 11:49:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>
> >On May 29, 8:28 am, "John Grossbohlin"
> ><grossboj.nos...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> >"DerbyDad03" <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote in message
> >> >news:af3f9976-653c-4529...@q8g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
> >> >PS It's only about 15 feet worth.
>
> >> Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! Working to a
> >> line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
> >> care of that!
>
> >> JAG ;~)
>
> >Assuming I actually had a a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even
> >a spoke shave. :-)
>
> Yet another tragedy concerning the poor, disadvantaged Normites!
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol.
> ---------------------------------------------------
It was a good day at Dad's house.
I replaced the old cranky garbage disposer with a super quiet
InSinkErator (I hate old house plumbing)
Dad's hard of hearing so I replaced the switch for the disposer with
one that has a pilot light (I hate old house wiring)
I upgraded Mom's computer (SP2, IE7, new anti-virus software, etc.)
I cut down the Wisteria that had taken over the side of the garage (I
love reciprocating saws)
Oh yeah, I also ripped (yes *ripped*) about 20 feet of baseboard. It
turned out that I needed to take off about 1/2", not the 1/4" Dad had
said. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had my old Hirsch Saw Table
in the van and I was able to mount my PC circular saw to it. It's a
left handed saw (I love that thing!) so I had to mount it "backwards"
on the table, but I managed to get the clips to fit.
I found a piece of nice straight angle iron to use as a fence and
*carefully* ripped the baseboard to fit. The longest piece I had to do
was 75", the rest I cut down to about 3' before ripping and then cut
them to size with the miter saw.
All in all, it was good day. Dad's helped me out a lot over the years
and it's nice to be able to do stuff for him now that he's, shall we
say, slowing down a bit. (Early 80's)
Anyway, thanks for the suggestions...this certainly was a lively
thread!
Steve
> http://www.supertool.com/index.htm
Bookmarked!
Steve
> All in all, it was good day. Dad's helped me out a lot over the years
> and it's nice to be able to do stuff for him now that he's, shall we
> say, slowing down a bit. (Early 80's)
Good on you!
Larry Jaques
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote the following:
>On May 29, 8:56�pm, Larry Jaques <ljaq...@diversify.invalid> wrote:
>> On Sat, 29 May 2010 11:49:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote the following:
>>
>> >On May 29, 8:28�am, "John Grossbohlin"
>> ><grossboj.nos...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>> >> >"DerbyDad03" <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote in message
>> >> >news:af3f9976-653c-4529...@q8g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
>> >> >On May 28, 6:47 pm, "<<<__ B�b __>>>" <b.wing...@charter.net> wrote:
>> >> >PS It's only about 15 feet worth.
>>
>> >> Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! �Working to a
>> >> line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
>> >> care of that!
>>
>> >> JAG ;~)
>>
>> >Assuming I actually had a a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even
>> >a spoke shave. �:-)
>>
>> Yet another tragedy concerning the poor, disadvantaged Normites!
>It was a good day at Dad's house.
>
>I replaced the old cranky garbage disposer with a super quiet
>InSinkErator (I hate old house plumbing)
Tell me about it. I installed a 3-piece faucet in a mobile home
bathroom yesterday. The downpipe was 2 piece but the replacement was
one. I had to bend and twist the glued ABS pipes to get it to fit. It
was || close to breaking into a million pieces. Whew!
>Dad's hard of hearing so I replaced the switch for the disposer with
>one that has a pilot light (I hate old house wiring)
I'll bet that was a fun house to visit when he forgot.
>I upgraded Mom's computer (SP2, IE7, new anti-virus software, etc.)
>I cut down the Wisteria that had taken over the side of the garage (I
>love reciprocating saws)
I prefer thermonuclear weapons for Wisteria, myself.
>Oh yeah, I also ripped (yes *ripped*) about 20 feet of baseboard. It
>turned out that I needed to take off about 1/2", not the 1/4" Dad had
>said. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had my old Hirsch Saw Table
>in the van and I was able to mount my PC circular saw to it. It's a
>left handed saw (I love that thing!) so I had to mount it "backwards"
>on the table, but I managed to get the clips to fit.
>
>I found a piece of nice straight angle iron to use as a fence and
>*carefully* ripped the baseboard to fit. The longest piece I had to do
>was 75", the rest I cut down to about 3' before ripping and then cut
>them to size with the miter saw.
Whatever works. Kudos.
>All in all, it was good day. Dad's helped me out a lot over the years
>and it's nice to be able to do stuff for him now that he's, shall we
>say, slowing down a bit. (Early 80's)
Yeah, I know how that goes.
>Anyway, thanks for the suggestions...this certainly was a lively
>thread!
As catfights go. <bseg>
DerbyDad03
> On Sat, 29 May 2010 20:03:31 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>
>
>
> >On May 29, 8:56 pm, Larry Jaques <ljaq...@diversify.invalid> wrote:
> >> On Sat, 29 May 2010 11:49:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> >> <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote the following:
>
> >> >On May 29, 8:28 am, "John Grossbohlin"
> >> ><grossboj.nos...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> >> >"DerbyDad03" <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote in message
> >> >> >news:af3f9976-653c-4529...@q8g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
re: ">>Dad's hard of hearing so I replaced the switch for the disposer
with
>>one that has a pilot light...
">I'll bet that was a fun house to visit when he forgot."
You couldn't forget that the old Kenmore was running. Heck, the
*neighbors* couldn't forget that the old Kenmore was running. The
thing sounded like that thermonuclear weapon you like to use for
Wisteria.
The InSinkErator Evolution series are so quiet that even I sometimes
forget that mine is on until I turn the water off.
Besides the insulation on the unit itself and the anti-vibration
gaskets on the mounting bracket and drain connection, they use a
rubber baffle in the drain that's designed so that the water pools and
forms an additional sound barrier.
Once they chop up the food, they are really, really, quiet.
Lew Hodgett
DerbyDad03 said:
> All in all, it was good day. Dad's helped me out a lot over the
> years
> and it's nice to be able to do stuff for him now that he's, shall we
> say, slowing down a bit. (Early 80's)
---------------------------------------
Those are the best kind of attaboys.
You get to spend them now and remember them forever.
Lew
Steve Turner
Absolutely. It's one of the longest-lived bookmarks in my browser, and I still refer to it
all the time. Patrick really should turn this site into a bona-fide book.
--
What percentage of the driving populace do you suppose actually
understands the rules of engagement at a four-way stop?
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Larry Jaques
<bbqb...@swtacobell.net> wrote the following:
>On 05/29/2010 11:22 PM, Steve wrote:
>> On 2010-05-29 11:28:37 -0400, Larry Jaques <lja...@diversify.invalid>
>> said:
>>
>>> http://www.supertool.com/index.htm
>>
>> Bookmarked!
>
>Absolutely. It's one of the longest-lived bookmarks in my browser, and I still refer to it
>all the time. Patrick really should turn this site into a bona-fide book.
Truth!
--
A well-informed mind is the best security against the contagion of
folly and of vice. The vacant mind is ever on the watch for relief,
and ready to plunge into error, to escape from the languor of idleness.
-- Ann Radcliffe
Swingman
Saw the Chet Atkins special on PBS last night.
"I Still Can't Say Goodbye" will bring tears to the eye of strongest man
out there:
http://new.music.yahoo.com/videos/Chet+Atkins/I+Still+Can%27t+Say+Goodbye--2138979
The band, who had never heard the song before, much less had heard Chet
sing, had eyes glistening with tears by the end of the song.
Powerful ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
Lobby Dosser
news:S8udnX7Hrf1AQJ_R...@giganews.com...
Bring tears to a glass eye ...