Delta Unifence Experience
WoodDesigns
I've finally had it with the original fence I got with my Delta
Contractor's 10" TS. I was looking at the Biesmeyer (sp?) but I really
like the features of the Delta Unifence, particularly the lack of need to
drill new holes in my TS, the lack of mounting hardware on the back of the
saw and the extruded fence. Any recommendations or expenience, I haven't
written the check yet (and I really didn't want to spend $600-for the
fence, wood table and legs) so I'd appreciate any advise anyone could give
me. BTW I don't want to buy another fence in the foreseeable future and
I'll be using the fence in a "hoping to someday be a professional
wordworker" beginning shop. Please post to this group or email me at
jpe...@ns.net
Thanks in advance.
Warren Kafitz
DBrandt wrote:
> takes a lot of side pressure wihout any give, which I had my doubts
> about when I first installed it, since it does not have a rear rail or
> lock. It's very easy to adjust. The only disadvantage is that if you
> move from one side of the blade to the other you must remove the fence
> from the th4e carrage and turn it around, This is not a real big
> problem , takes about a minute or less to do it.
>
> I also have a Vega T-slot fence mounted on a sears contractors
> saw, this is also a very good fence, in fact it outlasted the saw.
> However it does take a good bit of time abd care to install.
>
> Dave BrandtI have the smaller of the vega fences mounted on my sears saw (this saw
is 30 to 40 years old, when they made good cast iron saws) The vega
fence along with the optional push block and back hold down was $254.00.
It works great, never have to measure again, just set the fence with the
correct size on the front bar and cut.
warren
Brian Leeland
WoodDesigns wrote:
>
> I've finally had it with the original fence I got with my Delta
> Contractor's 10" TS. I was looking at the Biesmeyer (sp?) but I really
> like the features of the Delta Unifence, particularly the lack of need to
> drill new holes in my TS, the lack of mounting hardware on the back of the
> saw and the extruded fence. Any recommendations or expenience, I haven't
> written the check yet (and I really didn't want to spend $600-for the
> fence, wood table and legs) so I'd appreciate any advise anyone could give
> me. BTW I don't want to buy another fence in the foreseeable future and
> I'll be using the fence in a "hoping to someday be a professional
> wordworker" beginning shop. Please post to this group or email me at
> jpe...@ns.net
>
> Thanks in advance.
I posted a piece a couple of weeks ago about receiving a Unifence with a
bowed fence. The replacement fence came in last week as predicted by
Tool Crib. It is as flat as I can measure it and performing superbly.
For the last ten years I have used a Unifence at a neighbors and though
I researched other fences my experience in that time won through. I
highly recommend the Unifence.
H. Blair Downing
WoodDesigns wrote:
>
> I've finally had it with the original fence I got with my Delta
> Contractor's 10" TS. I was looking at the Biesmeyer (sp?) but I really
> like the features of the Delta Unifence, particularly the lack of need to
> drill new holes in my TS, the lack of mounting hardware on the back of the
> saw and the extruded fence. Any recommendations or expenience, I haven't
> written the check yet (and I really didn't want to spend $600-for the
> fence, wood table and legs) so I'd appreciate any advise anyone could give
> me. BTW I don't want to buy another fence in the foreseeable future and
> I'll be using the fence in a "hoping to someday be a professional
> wordworker" beginning shop. Please post to this group or email me at
> jpe...@ns.net
>
> Thanks in advance.
install on your conctractor's saw with no drilling.
just a little note
blair
paul royko
In article <jperez-ya0230600...@news.ns.net>, jpe...@ns.net
(WoodDesigns) wrote:
> I've finally had it with the original fence I got with my Delta
> Contractor's 10" TS. I was looking at the Biesmeyer (sp?) but I really
> like the features of the Delta Unifence, particularly the lack of need to
> drill new holes in my TS, the lack of mounting hardware on the back of the
> saw and the extruded fence. Any recommendations or expenience, I haven't
> written the check yet (and I really didn't want to spend $600-for the
> fence, wood table and legs) so I'd appreciate any advise anyone could give
> me. BTW I don't want to buy another fence in the foreseeable future and
> I'll be using the fence in a "hoping to someday be a professional
> wordworker" beginning shop. Please post to this group or email me at
> jpe...@ns.net
>
> Thanks in advance.
Check out the latest issue of Fine Woodworking (guy running a Dewalt
router on the cover). They test-drove a new fence for the Delta. Though
they had a bit of trouble with the unit as it came, the overall review was
very positive. It's toward the back of the book where the new product
stuff usually is.
--
paul royko
Toronto, Canada
Life needs a Command-Z key.
DBrandt
jpe...@ns.net (WoodDesigns) wrote:
>I've finally had it with the original fence I got with my Delta
>Contractor's 10" TS. I was looking at the Biesmeyer (sp?) but I really
>like the features of the Delta Unifence, particularly the lack of need to
>drill new holes in my TS, the lack of mounting hardware on the back of the
>saw and the extruded fence. Any recommendations or expenience, I haven't
>written the check yet (and I really didn't want to spend $600-for the
>fence, wood table and legs) so I'd appreciate any advise anyone could give
>me. BTW I don't want to buy another fence in the foreseeable future and
>I'll be using the fence in a "hoping to someday be a professional
>wordworker" beginning shop. Please post to this group or email me at
>jpe...@ns.net
>Thanks in advance.
I Have A delta Unisaw with the 52" fence and it works very well , It
John & Cathleen Halliburton
> > I also have a Vega T-slot fence mounted on a sears contractors
> > saw, this is also a very good fence, in fact it outlasted the saw.
> > However it does take a good bit of time abd care to install.
so long to instal or tweak on it, it's been a fine performer, the big
round tube in the front for lock down is very ridgid, and it adjusts
very smoothly. cost was about $210 with 26" fence.
>John
Chuck Riccardo
jpe...@ns.net (WoodDesigns) wrote:
>I've finally had it with the original fence I got with my Delta
>Contractor's 10" TS. I was looking at the Biesmeyer (sp?) but I really
>like the features of the Delta Unifence, particularly the lack of need to
>drill new holes in my TS, the lack of mounting hardware on the back of the
>saw and the extruded fence. Any recommendations or expenience, I haven't
>written the check yet (and I really didn't want to spend $600-for the
>fence, wood table and legs) so I'd appreciate any advise anyone could give
>me. BTW I don't want to buy another fence in the foreseeable future and
>I'll be using the fence in a "hoping to someday be a professional
>wordworker" beginning shop. Please post to this group or email me at
>jpe...@ns.net
>
>Thanks in advance.
Consider the Vega - a hell of a lot less money - and the same accuracy.
I love mine. CMR
spi...@mhv.net
I've got the smaller 32" Unifence. I like it a lot, easy to set up, use and does a nice job.
It doesn't have any side to side flex at all. The only limitation is as a consequence of not
haing a rear support it does slightly lift. As a consequence it doesn't lend itself to using
RIP Straight or, Board Buddies Hold down.,,,Andrew
hau...@mbi.org
In article <56bd7n$l...@news.mhv.net> spi...@mhv.net writes:
>From: spi...@mhv.net
>Subject: Re: Delta Unifence Experience
>Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 21:52:38
All these 'board buddies' references lately make me wonder who makes them.
The name is just too similar to another term used to describe two males who
really like each other. I apologize in advance to anyone offended, but it
reminds me every time....
Rich
Just say 'Not that there's anything wrong with that!'
Jeff Fort
WoodDesigns wrote:
>
> I've finally had it with the original fence I got with my Delta
> Contractor's 10" TS. I was looking at the Biesmeyer (sp?) but I really
> like the features of the Delta Unifence, particularly the lack of need to
> drill new holes in my TS, the lack of mounting hardware on the back of the
> saw and the extruded fence. Any recommendations or expenience,
I've got the same saw and the Unifence - the fence is absoutely superb.
It is perfectly accurate, was easy to install - was perfectly square the
moment I put it on the table, all in all I'm very pleased with the
fence. I now just wish my saw had "UniSaw" written on it to match the
fence...
Garrett Lambert
I bought a Unisaw and Unifence. I think the fence is terrific. I tried
the Biesemeyer, and while it, too, is an excellent fence, I really
perfer the Unifence.
James W. Baker
> In article <56bd7n$l...@news.mhv.net> spi...@mhv.net writes:
> >From: spi...@mhv.net
> >Subject: Re: Delta Unifence Experience
> >Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 21:52:38
>
> >I've got the smaller 32" Unifence. I like it a lot, easy to set up, use and does a nice job.
> >It doesn't have any side to side flex at all. The only limitation is as a consequence of not
> >haing a rear support it does slightly lift. As a consequence it doesn't lend itself to using
> >RIP Straight or, Board Buddies Hold down.,,,Andrew
>
recently bought the Ripstrate from Woodworker Warehouse for my Jet
Contractors TS with Jetfence which also lifts in the back. I am going
to return the Ripstrate because it will not mount to the fence. The
folks at Woodworkers Warehouse didn't see how it would install either.
The fence is too wide to allow the Ripstrate to mount to an auxiliary
wood fence and have the thumbscrew on the Ripstrate tighten against the
Jetfence. I was thinking about getting one of the other styles of
ripping aids until I read this post.
What are your experiences with using hold downs when ripping, especially
on this style of fence that is wide and lifts at the back?
Do you use an auxiliary wood (or other material) fence with this style
of fence? How do you install it (drill and bolt through the aluminum
fence)?
Thanks,
Jim Baker
Richard Hollingsworth
In article <56bd7n$l...@news.mhv.net>, spi...@mhv.net says:
>
>I've got the smaller 32" Unifence. I like it a lot, easy to set up, use and does a nice job.
>It doesn't have any side to side flex at all. The only limitation is as a consequence of not
>haing a rear support it does slightly lift. As a consequence it doesn't lend itself to using
>RIP Straight or, Board Buddies Hold down.,,,Andrew
Andrew:
I have just the opposite opinion. Isn't life wonderful? Anyway, I've had
my 32" Unifence for 4 years and have used the heck out of it. I drilled
3 1/2" holes along the high side to secure an aux. wood fence for dado and
molding head operations with no discernable loss of tolerances. I also
a hold-down device from Letchung (hope I spelled that right) and it clamps
right to the high side with no problem. I also love having both a high
side and a low side for cutting ply and making small rip cuts. The fence
is easy (takes about 1 minute) to move to the left side of the blade for
some molding operations.
Did I mention I love this fence???
Anyway, much reguards, RH
Wolf Lahti
Fine Woodworking had an article (may have been in one of their books--
sorry I can't be more specific) on building a table-saw fence out of
aluminum channel and other parts that does everything the commercial
fences do. Total cost was near $100. That was a few years back, but it
would undoubtedly still be a significant savings over paying for some
factory's work.
=======================================================
"I hate quotations!" Wolf Lahti
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson Allen, Washington
-------------------------------------------------------
wd...@paccar.com wolf-...@usa.net
=======================================================
spi...@mhv.net
I'm not complaining about my Unifence, I love it and the saw...With the Leichtung hold downs,
(I have a set) How did you keep the back end of the fence from lifting. I did the same thing
with a 1" thick piece of maple on the high side. The backe end of the fence lifts about 3/8".
When I'm cutting thick stock it's OK. When cutting thinner stock it gets a little trickier.
I was also concerned about putting an undue amount of stress on the fron of the fence. I'd
appreciate any hints,,,Thanks,, Andrew
William P Prichett
I use feather boards every time I rip with my Contractors saw and
Unifence. It works fine, with a small amount of lift that I find
accepable.
Bill
>
Patrick Burke
Chuck Riccardo wrote:
>
> jpe...@ns.net (WoodDesigns) wrote:
> >I've finally had it with the original fence I got with my Delta
> >Contractor's 10" TS. I was looking at the Biesmeyer (sp?) but I really
> >like the features of the Delta Unifence, particularly the lack of need to
> >drill new holes in my TS, the lack of mounting hardware on the back of the
> >written the check yet (and I really didn't want to spend $600-for the
> >fence, wood table and legs) so I'd appreciate any advise anyone could give
> >me. BTW I don't want to buy another fence in the foreseeable future and
> >I'll be using the fence in a "hoping to someday be a professional
> >wordworker" beginning shop. Please post to this group or email me at
> >jpe...@ns.net
Hi,
I love my Unifence, and I have used the Bessy fence as well. Is the big
one really $600? Wow. I think the 32" is around $250, but I got mine
as part of a package deal with my CS.
Anyway.
Pro: One of the features of the Unifence I use most often is its
ability to quickly and easily convert from a rip fence to a cross-cut
fence which does not extend as far as the blade. Undo two screws (with
handles on them, no tools), slide the fence back, tighten, and you're
up, exactly at whatever measurement you choose. On the Bessy, to
crosscut you have to clamp a block to the fence and remember to add the
width of the block to your measurement when you set the fence. I
usually forgot to do this, at least once.
Pro: Easy on, easy off, easy slide. The Bessy moved quite nicely on the
table, but I remember it being heavier and bulkier than the Unifence,
and harder to store when it's not on the table.
Pro: The Unifence can flip sideways so you can rip thin materials
without the thin materials sliding under the fence. I have never used
this feature, but I suppose it's nice that it's there.
Con: It is harder to clamp things and screw things to the Unifence than
it is to the Bessy fence (and those like it). Is it impossible? No.
Is it harder? Yes. The Bessemeier fence has a flat surface facing the
blade, and a flat surface on the other side of the blade, and the
fence's width is constant both vertically and horizontally. If you do a
lot of work where you have to clamp or screw fixtures to your fence, or
ride fixtures over the top of it, you might consider one of the others.
Con: The little piece of plastic with the line on it which indicates
where the fence is located is hard to read. It has a plastic
"magnifying" area, but the magnifying area is too small to read enough
of the scale to figure out exactly which /32 you're looking at, but too
big to get that information from the rest of the clear, flat parts of
the plastic. I have heard you can get this replaced by Delta, but I
haven't done it yet.
Good luck. Hope this helps.
Jonathan D Cohen
Hey, while we're on the topic of Unifences, does anyone know what
L-shaped well toward the front of the guide is for? Seems like it ought
to be to be there for something. To store something? One thought I had
was for a L-shaped allen wrench, used to adjust the insert height. Or
is it just form following structure? Anyone know for sure?
jc
penlam
I've had a unifence on my 10" delta for four years. It has performed
quite well.
The only difficulties I had were with a poorly fitting hardware package
that needed primary fasteners to be replaced and a measuring tape that
does not fare well in cold temperatures. The tape tends to lift and once
sawdust enters under the tape you accuracy is toast.
Good luck.
Bill
Jonathan D Cohen wrote:
>
> Hey, while we're on the topic of Unifences, does anyone know what
> L-shaped well toward the front of the guide is for? Seems like it ought
I keep the allen wrench in it....I think the manual mentions it.
later, Bill
Gary Snelson
Jonathan Cohen wrote:
> >snip<, does anyone know what the L-shaped well toward the front of
> the guide is for? >snip<
Yup, it's for the allen wrenches. But unless you replace the cheesy
little flexible magnets Delta sorta glues in there, the wrenches'll
fall out.
Gary
--
Gary Snelson Arcadia, California
-----------------------------------------------
NOTE: Address in "from" is fake for spammers.
Real address is snelson@loop*.com without the *
-----------------------------------------------
Paul Houtz
paul royko (ro...@astral.magic.ca) wrote:
: Check out the latest issue of Fine Woodworking (guy running a Dewalt
: router on the cover). They test-drove a new fence for the Delta. Though
: they had a bit of trouble with the unit as it came, the overall review was
: very positive. It's toward the back of the book where the new product
: stuff usually is.
Actually, the fence is not "for the Delta". It is from Foxpro, I believe,
and it is just another aftermarket fence, made for any saw.
The author of the article did install it on a Unisaw--but with quite a bit
of trouble.
This review amazed me, because it said it was a good fence at $275.00.
As far as I could tell, this fence had NO SCALE. A serious flaw making
it vastly inferior to all the other aftermarket fences on the market.
William P Prichett
FYI for those with Delta Contractors Saws out fitted with Unifences.
I have wanted to replace my toggle switch for some time, as I have
had probems with the switch not turning off the saw and the switch is not
in the best of positions.
I noticed that to the right of the blade and on the under side of
the Unifence rail, there is a threaded hole. The hole is the same thread
as that used for conduit and junction boxes. I purchased a metal box and
broke out one off the knock out holes and screwed it tight to the
underside of the Unifence rail. Now with the appropriate rated switch
and wired, grounded, and sealed from sawdust, into the original toggle
switch box; it works great. The switch is now convenient, safer to
operate (from the right hand side) and no more "turn the saw off and it
keeps on running". I just wanted to let those know who may not of
noticed this threaded hole and how it makes switch attachment much
easier. Good Luck,
Bill
The Password is "RESPECT"
Mike Coston
James W. Baker wrote:
>
> > In article <56bd7n$l...@news.mhv.net> spi...@mhv.net writes:
> > >From: spi...@mhv.net
> > >Subject: Re: Delta Unifence Experience
> > >Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 21:52:38
> >
> > >It doesn't have any side to side flex at all. The only limitation is as a consequence of not
> > >haing a rear support it does slightly lift. As a consequence it doesn't lend itself to using
> > >RIP Straight or, Board Buddies Hold down.,,,Andrew
I installed a set of board buddies on my Unifence by fabricating a set
of alum. brackets (I have a small milling machine.) to mount the base
plates to. I find they work very well for ripping when I have no one to
assist with a cut. They seem to hold the board down/back against the
fence and were well worth the effort to install. (I wish the manuf. had
included mounting brackets tho) I use a qwik clamp on the back end of
the fence to hold it down after everything is setup.
One thing I wish I could find tho is a much longer fence than the one
that came with the saw, anyone heard of one about 6' or better? (a
longer extrusion like the original.)
Thanks
Mike
danw...@ix.netcom.com
I am having trouble getting good mitre joints on this saw. The problem
seems to be that the swivel table is actually "higher" than the fixed
"base" and slightly higher on one side than the other!
I put a square on 3 other Mitre Saws including a Ryobi and only the $600
job was the table flush with the base.
Is my observation unusual? How am I supposed to get an accurate cut if the
parts are not flush?
Thanks,
Dan
Al Amaral - SunSoft Engineering
In article <wmXJz7u00...@andrew.cmu.edu> Jonathan D Cohen <jdco...@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>Hey, while we're on the topic of Unifences, does anyone know what
>to be to be there for something. To store something? One thought I had
>was for a L-shaped allen wrench, used to adjust the insert height. Or
>is it just form following structure? Anyone know for sure?
L-shaped well?
+-------+
| |
| |
| |
|____+_______+
^
+--- You mean this part?
This part is for cutting laminates, where the edge of the laminate may be
neither parallel to the edge of the workpiece, nor straight. You adjust
the fence to be a bit off the table so that the laminate can slide under
the fence and the | part to the left, above, rides on the edge of the
workpiece, which hopefully will be straight. DO NOT put anything in there
especially something like an allen wrench which could bounce into the path
of the blade and and up embedded in your face.
If this isn't what you mean then what?
--Al Amaral--
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Al Amaral Al.A...@East.Sun.COM
"G'day, and welcome to All Things Delta. If it's not Delta, IT'S CRAP!"
------------------------------------------------------------------------
To would-be spammers:
Unsolicited email, which is unrelated to the topic of this post, is
not welcome so please don't waste my time.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gary Snelson
--
Gary Snelson Arcadia, California
-----------------------------------------------
NOTE: Address in "from" is fake for spammers.
Real address is snelson@loop*.com without the *
-----------------------------------------------
Gary Gilbreath
William P Prichett wrote:
...
> I have wanted to replace my toggle switch for some time, as I have
> had probems with the switch not turning off the saw and the switch is not
> in the best of positions.
I had the same problem with the switch on my Delta Contractors saw and
solved
it in a similar way. I remember reading about a couple other people who
had
switch failures a year or so ago and I'm curious about how many others
have
had the switch on the Delta CS fail.
Gary
Michael Sinclair
When I was trying to decide what cs to buy I talked with an experienced
carpenter who works at my university. He had tried most of the saws on
the market and favored the Delta, though he warned that the switch was
lousy and that his had failed fairly soon after he bought the saw.
I bought the Delta. Whereas the switch didn't fail, I hated the small
size and location. Late last summer when I had an electrician add some
circuits to my workshop he said that he had a Delta too and liked
everything about it except the switch.
I called Delta's 800 parts number and ordered the "safety switch" which,
according to the rep with whom I spoke, is now standard on the cs. It
costs $48, is a huge improvement, and is very easy to install. I'm not
getting a commission, but for those who are interested the part number
is 422396260003 and the telephone number is 800-233-7278.
The improved switch makes the saw much more enjoyable to use and because
of its size and location is much safer.
Regards,
ms
Jonathan D Cohen
Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 18-Nov-96 Re: Delta Unifence
Experience by Al - S. Engineering@marl
> .cmu.edu> writes:
> >Hey, while we're on the topic of Unifences, does anyone know what
> >L-shaped well toward the front of the guide is for? Seems like it ought
> >to be to be there for something. To store something? One thought I had
> >was for a L-shaped allen wrench, used to adjust the insert height. Or
> >is it just form following structure? Anyone know for sure?
>
> L-shaped well?
>
> +-------+
> | |
> | |
> | |
> |____+_______+
>
> ^
> +--- You mean this part?
No, I meant the well on the top of the body, or guide or whatever the
blue triangular thing is called (not the fence itself). Several others
have indicated that it is indeed for holding an allen wrench, and
mentioned a magnet liner that is glued in there to hold the wrench(es)
in place (that doesn't work to well)... no such magnet in mine. Hmmm..
maybe a model change?
jc
rb...@ebicom.net
There was a design change quite a while ago. The adjustments to get
the Unifence lined up parallel and perpendicular to the blade used to
require the use of an Allen wrench. The arbor nut wrench and a flat
screw driver are all that are required now for these seldom required
adjustments.
Ron
G.K. Engelstad
Jonathan D Cohen wrote:
>
> Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 18-Nov-96 Re: Delta Unifence
> Experience by Al - S. Engineering@marl
> > In article <wmXJz7u00...@andrew.cmu.edu> Jonathan D Cohen
> <jdcohen+@andrew
> > .cmu.edu> writes:
> > >Hey, while we're on the topic of Unifences, does anyone know what
> > >L-shaped well toward the front of the guide is for? Seems like it ought
> > >to be to be there for something. To store something? One thought I had
> > >was for a L-shaped allen wrench, used to adjust the insert height. Or
> > >is it just form following structure? Anyone know for sure?
> >
> > L-shaped well?
> >
> > +-------+
> > | |
> > | |
> > | |
> > |____+_______+
> >
> > ^
> > +--- You mean this part?
>
> No, I meant the well on the top of the body, or guide or whatever the
> blue triangular thing is called (not the fence itself). Several others
> have indicated that it is indeed for holding an allen wrench, and
> mentioned a magnet liner that is glued in there to hold the wrench(es)
> in place (that doesn't work to well)... no such magnet in mine. Hmmm..
> maybe a model change?
>
> jc
My 2 Cents,
Jonathan,
I am guessing that you purchased your fence used with no manuals. If
you take the time to R.Y.F.M. (Read Your F... Manual) almost every
picture in the manual shows an allen wrench stored in it. To be more
exact Page 14 Paragraph ! Figures 43 and 44 titled WRENCH STORAGE, shows
the locations of 2 allen wrenches being stored. One wrench adusts the
fence to the blade, the other adjusts the cursor.
Next week....
The definition of an "Allen Wrench."
G.K.(Grant) Engelstad
Engelstad Enterprises
Custom Woodworking
Jonathan D Cohen
Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 21-Nov-96 Re: Delta Unifence
Experience by "G.K. Engelstad"@sk.symp
> > maybe a model change?
> >
> > jc
Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 21-Nov-96 Re: Delta Unifence
Experience by "G.K. Engelstad"@sk.symp
>
> My 2 Cents,
>
> Jonathan,
>
> I am guessing that you purchased your fence used with no manuals. If
> you take the time to R.Y.F.M. (Read Your F... Manual) almost every
> picture in the manual shows an allen wrench stored in it. To be more
> exact Page 14 Paragraph ! Figures 43 and 44 titled WRENCH STORAGE, shows
> the locations of 2 allen wrenches being stored. One wrench adusts the
> fence to the blade, the other adjusts the cursor.
>
> Next week....
>
> The definition of an "Allen Wrench."
>
> G.K.(Grant) Engelstad
> Engelstad Enterprises
> Custom Woodworking
Actually, I purchased it new, and read every last page of the manual.
None of the pictures show any wrenches stored in the well, and there are
no sections or figures that refer to this either, not on p.14 or
anywhere else. My manual is dated 1-10-96. When is yours dated? I am
now pretty well convinced that, as I guessed in my previous post, there
has been a model change. This is further suggested by the fact that the
adjustment screws for the fence are either flat or phillips head screws.
jc
P.S. - Grant, you might consider recalibrating the default levels of
respect you hold (or at least show) for your colleagues out here... your
2 cents felt pretty cheap to me.
Chuck Riccardo
>> > >Hey, while we're on the topic of Unifences, does anyone know what
>> > >L-shaped well toward the front of the guide is for? Seems like it ought
>> > >to be to be there for something.
> I am guessing that you purchased your fence used with no manuals. If
>you take the time to R.Y.F.M. (Read Your F... Manual) almost every
>picture in the manual shows an allen wrench stored in it. To be more
>exact Page 14 Paragraph ! Figures 43 and 44 titled WRENCH STORAGE, shows
>the locations of 2 allen wrenches being stored. One wrench adusts the
>fence to the blade, the other adjusts the cursor.
>
>Next week....
>
> The definition of an "Allen Wrench."
>
>G.K.(Grant) Engelstad
>Engelstad Enterprises
>Custom Woodworking
Oh! My hero! Why Mr. Grant - you know all about everything! Thank you
soooo much for you valuable contribution to the group. CMR
Paul Houtz
Al Amaral - SunSoft Engineering (a...@marley.East.Sun.COM) wrote:
: In article <wmXJz7u00...@andrew.cmu.edu> Jonathan D Cohen <jdco...@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
: >Hey, while we're on the topic of Unifences, does anyone know what
: >L-shaped well toward the front of the guide is for? Seems like it ought
: >was for a L-shaped allen wrench, used to adjust the insert height. Or
: >is it just form following structure? Anyone know for sure?
: L-shaped well?
: +-------+
: | |
: | |
: | |
: |____+_______+
: ^
: +--- You mean this part?
: This part is for cutting laminates, where the edge of the laminate may be
: neither parallel to the edge of the workpiece, nor straight. You adjust
: the fence to be a bit off the table so that the laminate can slide under
: the fence and the | part to the left, above, rides on the edge of the
: workpiece, which hopefully will be straight.
The low fence is meant to be short enough so that the laminate can
go OVER the fence lip. There is no need to raise the fence up.
_____
laminate | |
-------------------- \ |
STOCK | +-+ | | Fence
| | |_____/ |
---------------+ +------------+
This way you can trim your stock to approximate size, glue on the
laminate, and then use the original edge to trim off the laminate
on the opposite edge.
It is also very useful for holding onto thin, narrow stock when
cutting on the tablesaw. You can get your hands down closer to the
work. I mostly use the fence in this position. Note that the
reticle has 2 hairlines so you can read directly from the scale with
the fence in either position.