Dewalt DW106 chuck removal
adr...@cam.cornell.edu
instructions with the tool say to chuck an allen wrench into the chuck
and hit it with a hammer in the counter-clockwise direction. There
does not appear to be any sort of screw inside the chuck as is often
mentioned (e.g. in the large volume of previous posts to this group
about removing chucks). I have whacked the thing a couple dozen times
with a hammer and tried using WD-40 to maybe loosen things up, but I
have not made any progress. It hasn't loosened at all. What else can
I try?
whi...@gmail.com
adr...@cam.cornell.edu wrote:
> I'm trying to replace the chuck ...
> instructions with the tool say to chuck an allen wrench into the chuck
> and hit it with a hammer in the counter-clockwise direction.
Use a single-purpose penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench or similar); WD-40
is
good, but is formulated for dozens of other uses. Clean off any
visible
deposits from the shaft back of the chuck before you apply the oil
there.
Some chucks have a hole so a drop inside the chuck will hit the
attachment threads, so do that, too.
I'd use a rawhide hammer, or maybe a light wood stick; rapid blow from
a
light hammer is called for (and there's no need to bash a good allen
wrench
against a steel face here).
If it's still stuck, a few seconds application of flame from a propane
torch to
the chuck can be useful. You don't want it red hot, just boiling.
When reassembling, I often put a wrap of the plumber-type teflon tape
around the
shaft; it won't need penetrating oil next year when you want it off
again.
DanG
screw inside holding the chuck. It is often an Allen headed
screw.
Once the bolt is out or you know that there is not one, it is time
to get the chuck off. The Allen wrench method works well. Get
the largest possible Allen wrench. Tighten the small end of the L
shaped Allen in the drill chuck. Look at the chuck end of the
drill, not the handle end, to determine counterclockwise rotation.
Get a steel headed hammer, piece of pipe, a hardwood stick, or
something else that can deliver a hard, sharp blow. You need to
swat the long end of the Allen very sharply to deliver a blow that
tries to turn the chuck faster than the motor can turn. All you
have holding against this blow is the motor as you can't hold the
armature in a vise or lock the armature against rotation. Get mad
at it, hit it hard, hit it several times. It will spin off, have
total confidence.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
<adr...@cam.cornell.edu> wrote in message
news:1159798119.6...@k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
adr...@cam.cornell.edu
drill's manual mention one. (The version with the keyed chuck
apparently has a screw, but not the keyless chuck.)
I've spent another month whacking on it, and tried a liquid wrench type
product. No progress. It does seem, however, that the shaft has
gotten somewhat wobbly. (The chuck moves from side to side a bit. I
don't believe it used to do that.) Can anybody recommend a good corded
drill with a keyless chuck?
DanG
I'm sorry for your trouble. I still stand firm - if the drill is
reversible there IS a screw holding it. Where are you? perhaps a
tradesman near you can help.
The best corded keyless I have ever owned is a Milwaukee. Hold
the slip ring and tighten as much as you want.
___________________________
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
DanG
<adr...@cam.cornell.edu> wrote in message
news:1162901031....@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...
adr...@cam.cornell.edu
up and look down with a flashlight I see a smooth metal surface at the
bottom. No slot, no recess for philips or allen wrench. I can look
again.
I'm in Northern Virginia. Which Milwaukee are you recommending? When
I read the amazon reviews of drills with keyless chucks there's always
people complaining that the chucks don't work, it seems, even for
Milwaukee's low end drill.
Note that in my case I suspect that the failure of my chuck was really
the result of abuse. The drill always worked fine until I remodeled
the bathroom. Then I used the drill to a dozen holes in ceramic tile.
Nothing would cut these tiles except diamonds. The diamond bit
required continuous water lubrication and it took 5-10 minutes PER
HOLE. The chuck rusted. It was light rust that was easy to remove
with a rust remover, but it was after that job that I started noticing
the chuck slipping.
Mark
>
> Well, I already looked for a screw several times. If I open the chuck
> up and look down with a flashlight I see a smooth metal surface at the
> bottom. No slot, no recess for philips or allen wrench. I can look
> again.
> I'm in Northern Virginia. Which Milwaukee are you recommending? When
> I read the amazon reviews of drills with keyless chucks there's always
> people complaining that the chucks don't work, it seems, even for
> Milwaukee's low end drill.
> Note that in my case I suspect that the failure of my chuck was really
> the result of abuse. The drill always worked fine until I remodeled
> the bathroom. Then I used the drill to a dozen holes in ceramic tile.
> Nothing would cut these tiles except diamonds. The diamond bit
> required continuous water lubrication and it took 5-10 minutes PER
> HOLE. The chuck rusted. It was light rust that was easy to remove
> with a rust remover, but it was after that job that I started noticing
> the chuck slipping.
my ancient DW106 drill. Adrian is correct -- there is no screw in this
model. I finally figured out that if I removed the seven Torx #10 screws
holding the drill together, I could separate the case halves, lift out the
gear, shaft and chuck, and lock a Visegrip onto the shaft between the
chuck and the first gear. Locking a 1/4" Allen wrench in the chuck and
turning the chuck counterclockwise with a few blows from a light hammer,
using the Visegrip to keep the shaft from turning, did the trick.
Reassembly was no problem at all. I wish I had done this to begin with and
that I could have shared this trick with Adrian when he encountered this
problem 9 years ago.
--
Leon
Anyway the standard procedure if it does not have a screw or after the
screw has been removed is to tighten the chuck, if possible, on to the
short end of a large hex wrench. Then whack the wrench with a hammer
counter clockwise if the wrench is between you and the drill, and or in
the same direction that the drill spins when drilling a hole.
I realize this is basically what you said but normally you can do this
with out taking the drill apart. The resistance of the motor and
gearing is normally enough to hold the chuck in a relatively stationary
position.
That said, I wonder if using an impact driver to loosen the chuck would
work better.
alyoupal
Wrong. Stand weakly next time.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/dewalt-dw106-chuck-removal-338959-.htm
RearAdmiral
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/dewalt-dw106-chuck-removal-338959-.htm