Craftsman routers
M R Terry
>Elu, and two (ugh) Craftsmans.
I've seen quite a few remarks against the Craftsman brand routers, why?
gottlieb
Personally, after all that I went through with a number of Craftsman tools
(brought most of them back), I wouldn't even consider any Craftsman power
tools. I kept the table saw only because I didn't have another $1,500 lying
around to buy a real table saw. If you want to throw your money away, at
least send it to me; I could put it to good use. I was so discouraged from
all of the negative Sears experiences that I thought I should find a new hobby.
Bottom line: Don't buy Craftsman tools, even if the price looks attractive when
they're running a sale. The Delta tools in the same Craftsman price range aren't
any better either.
Standard disclaimer: My opinions, not my employer's.
Dan....@columbiasc.ncr.com
>
> >I've owned a number of routers, an old Rockwell, a Porter Cable 693, an
> >Elu, and two (ugh) Craftsmans.
>
> I've seen quite a few remarks against the Craftsman brand routers, why?
I replaced my Craftsman router with a Porter Cable 690. This is why:
1) Craftsman collet only had allow 1/4" shanks. I needed to use a bit that came with 1/2 shank.
2) Now that I have 1/2" shank capable router, that's what I buy. There's more surface area for the collet to
grab, reducing the shank from slipping, and there's less chatter in the cutting.
3) No comparison between PC and Craftsman in depth adjustment. The Sears router had a large plastic ring
that turned on plastic threads of the housing surrounding the motor. Sawdust / wood chips clogged between the
plastic making it hard to rotate. The PC uses machined aluminum housing around the motor, and the depth
adjustment is accomplished by small metal pins riding in grooves in the housing. *MUCH* easier to adjust.
4) The collets on PC are made better. (Besides also having 1/2 capacity). The 1/4" collet is machined
better, designed better, than the Sears collet. I ruined pieces because the bit started slipping and riding
out of the Sears router, before I noticed it. Sometimes it would slip just a little, too little to notice,
until you've finished the cut and see that pieces don't fit together. I've yet to have this happen with the
PC, and I've been using it a lot in the past year of ownership.
5) PC offers several bases. D-Handle, "two knobs" handle, and a plunge router (693) model. The Sears
router I had came with one base. With the PC, I use the standard base in my router table. When I want to free
hand route, I remvoe the motor mechanism, and put it the plunge base.
6) Bearings "sound better" on the PC. Actually, the Sears router the PC replaced is the second one I've
owned. The first one broke because the bearings were shot. The second one sounds like they're closer to
being shot. And it's not *used that much*!
Now, that all said, the PC is more expensive. Here they're selling for around $145, and the plunge base around
$80. But for the cost difference between the PC and the Sears, I'd rather buy one well working router that
doesn't let the bits slip into the wood, uses 1/2" or 1/4" shanks, and has multiple base options, than save $50
-$70 using the Sears. On the other hand, if used a router infrequently, but was a "once a blue moon user",
the Sears would be a better. As with all things, depends on how and what you're wanting to use the tool, if
it's worth the cost savings.
Regards,
Dan
--
Dan Moyer
Dan....@ColumbiaSC.NCR.com
803-939-7681
Robert Horning
wrote:
> I've seen quite a few remarks against the Craftsman brand routers, why?
I had a Craftsman router a few years ago. Being the average DIYer I used
it now and then but not a lot. One year and one month after purchase, I
was working with it when I saw a puff of smoke, the thing quit, and a
couple little pieces of copper fell out of the motor housing onto the
plate. Kind of obvious what the problem was. So I called Sears and the
only comment I got was "You should have bought the extended warranty."
That story speaks to both the quality and service of Craftsman tools. I
believe that answers the question.
Bob Horning
horni...@htc.honeywell.com
Andrew Hollis Wakefield
While puffs of smoke may not necessarily happen to every Craftsman
router, there is a basic design feature (flaw, rather) that makes them
much inferior, IMHO: Rather than a separate collet fitting into a
machined, slanted hole, the Craftsman routers machine the end of the motor
shaft into the collet. This means 1) the collet can only be replaced by
replacing the whole motor shaft (consider what happens if anything
should go bad about the collet!) 2) The collet cannot compress evenly
along its length, possibly (probably?) resulting in a less-precise fit of
the router bit. There are no doubt other problems with this design that
could be enumerated, but note that this design seems to be carried all
the way through -- I just looked over their top of the line, 1/2", plunge
router, and to my horror it used the same design for the collet!
Andy Wakefield
a...@acpub.duke.edu
Chris Dunn
>>Elu, and two (ugh) Craftsmans.
>
Because they suck .... I'm sorry, it's been a rough day.
I have a 1 3/4 HP Model 315.174720 (I'm including Sear's model numbers for the
guy that asked for them in an earlier post) that I bought 3 years ago (before I
knew better) with a Router Table Model 171.254790 - you know, the (in)famous
`Special Purchase'. I also purchased a Table Saw Model 113.226880 and a Band
Saw Model 113.244500 the same day .... a day that will live in infamy ....
The bit height adjustment mechanism is constructed entirely from plastic and
and is called an `EZ' something or other ... what a joke. I'd hate to see their
`Difficult' features. Height adjustments are made by rotating a clamping tab to
unlock and then turning the router body in its base.
Once you check that the bit height is as desired, all you need do is flip the
locking tab into position. Of course there is so much slop in the `EZ' locking
mechanism that when try to pivot the tab , you have to wiggle it until it
rotates. Once you have wrestled the tab into locking position, then you recheck
the bit height. It winds up anywhere between -1/16" to +1/16" from where you
want it. After a half dozen or so tries, you might get it close. This is
particularly evident when the router is mounted in that wonderful `Deluxe'
router table I mentioned above (check an earlier post for my comments on that
item).
In fairness, I do find the shaft locking feature to be nice and the fact that
the collet wrench stores in a recess in the top is handy. I can't say anything
positive about the Craftman collet. It is pretty flimsy, probably won't stand
up over time, is limited to 1/4" shaft bits, and, from what I've heard, can't
be replaced.
Basically, with perseverance, patience, and luck I can accomplish what I set
out to do with this router (and table) but it certainly is not a day at the
beach. I absolutely and unequivalently would not buy another Sear's Craftman
power tool nor would I recommend anyone else do so.
--
Chris Dunn
du...@ug.eds.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If anyone out there is interested in CAD/CAM/CAE systems, check out the EDS
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Gerald M. Duryee
> >I've owned a number of routers, an old Rockwell, a Porter Cable 693, an
> >Elu, and two (ugh) Craftsmans.
> I've seen quite a few remarks against the Craftsman brand routers, why?
I'd like to know also, some are crap but I have a Craftsman model#
315.17370 that's one great little router. Only 1 hp but it does a really
good job in the proper application. I really wish I could find another
one just like it. Mike D.
--
Leroy Pluard
> > I've seen quite a few remarks against the Craftsman brand routers, why?
> I'd like to know also, some are crap but I have a Craftsman model#
> 315.17370 that's one great little router. Only 1 hp but it does a really
> good job in the proper application. I really wish I could find another
> one just like it. Mike D.
I used to like my Craftsman routers also, until I had a 1/4" straight bit
come straight thru a piece of 3/4" Oak. The collett on this particular
router, (Which was promptly scrapped!) just wasn't up to the taks of dealing
with hardwoods. My PC 690 has never lost a bit, as well as my Bosch 3-1/4
horse plunge and the Ryobi 2-1/4 horse plunge routers. The best collett I
have ever seen was on a Milwaukie router, but when I went looking to buy one,
they were nowhere to be found.
EDL
turned to woodworking. I have used Snap-On and MAC tools. They are
considered to be the finest in mechanical circles. In the military I
used exclusively Snap-On. I chose Craftsman for my home. What can I
say, they have never let me down. And their exchange policy means I'll
have that tool for ever. Excellent.
Now on to the power tools. I bought the 1 3/4hp router and the
"Industrial Table". <shame> The damb thing is 80% Plastic, and sometimes
the chuck "roams". Thats a great feature when you are trying to make a
sharp edge on moulding. The table is a real work of art. I tossed their
divided fence(two 1X1's with screws & bolts> and made my own fence from a
piece of scrap oak. Then I rigged up a dust collector. I felt like
McGeiver. Soon I was going to be using duct-tape.. Anyway They suck
together and individual. But since I am on a Soup Kitchen Budget, thems
the breaks. It may take me a while, but I have turned out some really
nice projects on it. The router does seem to have ample power. I use
only carbide bits. I guess when Sears hands you lemons...
Buy a router with a lot of weight and metal. Like a Porter Cable-thats
my next venue.
-Earl
JCromp4
Andrew Hollis Wakefield <a...@acpub.duke.edu> writes:
>> In article <4japl2$3...@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, mrt...@aol.com (M R
Terry)
>> wrote:
>>
>> > I've seen quite a few remarks against the Craftsman brand routers,
why?
I have had two Craftsman routers. The first one I got about 10 years ago
in a closeout sale. It's only a 1hp, but it works pretty well. It's
height adjustment consists of a threaded ring that when turned forces the
motor housing up/down within the base. The base is metal and clamps
around the motor housing by use of a wing bolt which squeezes the base
tighter, ala a hose clamp. LIke I said, it works well and I keep it setup
for dovetailing, which I don't do very often.
I wanted a bit bigger router to use in my router table and decided to give
a new Sears router a try (still being naive at this point). After a few
sample cuts, it became clear that the Sears router was not going to work
out. The newer model uses a plastic clamp with an over-center type of
latch to hold the base to the housing. This plastic clamp arrangement
just cant hold the base to the motor tight enough to prevent slipping, and
this was aggravated by being upside down in the table, so the motor didn;t
even have the adjustment ring to register to the base via gravity, so any
bit of pressure against the bit would cause the motor to shift in the base
and move the bit out of position (frustrating to say the least!). I had
the router for a couple of months but Sears took it back with no questions
asked. I had paid I think about $90 for this router on sale and with
Craftsman Club coupons, etc. After shopping around, I realized I could
get a Porter Cable 690 router which is arguably one of the best 1.5 hp
routers out there for only $40 more. I did and what a difference it makes
to have a truly professional quality tool. It is much heavier, more
precise and solid in height adjustment, plus it has replaceable brushes
and can take 1/2 inch bits. One nice thing about the PC is that you can
get the plunge base for about $85 more and have two routers in one. I'm
not big into knocking Sears, but there really is a difference between
professional, name brand tools and what Sears typically sells (although
some of their "Contractor" class of tools are the same), and there is
really not as much of a price delta as one might think, especially when
going through mail order places like Tool Crib, WWS, etc. I have had
several Craftsman power tools and excpet for the router mentioned above
have served me well and I have learned alot from using them. But as my
experience and capabilities grow, I trade up to better tools and sell the
old ones for what I can get. The router on the other hand is just a poor
design that never should have made it into production at any price. Sorry
to ramble a bit, just my $.02.
Joe
Joe Crompton "No more bonk bonk!" - James T. Kirk
Manager of Software Engineering
Technistar Corporation
1198 Boston Avenue
Longmont, CO 80501
303-651-0188
jcr...@aol.com
Jerry Davis
>
>M R Terry (mrt...@aol.com) wrote:
>> >I've owned a number of routers, an old Rockwell, a Porter Cable 693, an
>> >Elu, and two (ugh) Craftsmans.
>
>315.17370 that's one great little router. Only 1 hp but it does a really
>good job in the proper application. I really wish I could find another
>one just like it. Mike D.
>
>I have a Craftsman 1/4 inch router that I bought 30 years ago. It still
works, but I would never buy another one. I now have 6 routers. The problem
with the Craftsman router is that the collett is builtin. When you
damage the collett you might as well buy a new router. My advise is to
buy nothing less than a half inch router that has a removable collett. You
can buy a 1/4 inch busing or collett for a 1/2 router. Also when you buy
a router ALWAYS buy an extra collett. If I could buy only one router I
would buy a two to three HP 1/2 plunge router with the electron speed control and soft
start. Someone mentioned the Freud Routers. I have a Freud and with the
rebate that Freud is giving it is a bargin.
Jerry